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DevCore posted:Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack? The specialized pizza rack is one alternative. It's finicky to set up and not really amazing, but it's closer to $100 than $280. I did ragbrai with most of my camping gear on top of it.
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Dec 14, 2020 01:49
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DevCore posted:Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack? Which one of their racks?
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Dec 14, 2020 02:08
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DevCore posted:Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack? That's about the going price for a tubular CrMo rack, even made in Taiwan isn't much cheaper. The Blackburn Bootlegger has a similar form factor for a third the price, it's just aluminium instead and less fancy.
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Dec 14, 2020 04:29
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Which one of their racks? Oh right, I thought they only made the one - the five rail And thanks or the recommendations. I didn't realize front racks price points started so high, I assumed they'd be around the same as rear racks which start at $35 and go up. DevCore fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Dec 14, 2020 |
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Dec 14, 2020 05:23
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Sounds like the stem was improperly threaded or you cross threaded one of the early attempts and buggered it, but sounds like broken from the start. Any pics of the threaded hole? I assume by paste you mean the carbon assembly paste between bars and stem? Thanks! This could be the case. Yes, carbon assembly paste. Canyon is shipping another stem to try. In the meanwhile, the bicycle is rideable. I am pleasantly surprised by the shifting, very smooth - except for some gears, in which a clicking noise is evident, and sometimes the chain seems "in between" two gears, requiring another shift upwards or downwards to fix. I was in a rushed ride so didn't have time to take note of what gear/s it happens in. Could this be cross chaining or does the rear derailleur need adjustment? I don't know if I would be surprised, considering the bike was shipped to me in a box and handled god knows how en route.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:54
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DevCore posted:Oh right, I thought they only made the one - the five rail Front racks are mostly expensive cause they are hype, but not so hype that there's quite the same amount of production as rear racks. Depending on what you want to carry on the front a reasonably priced front rack + wald basket can get you most of the way there for reasonable cost instead of one of the expensive wide pizza racks.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:57
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Thom ZombieForm posted:Thanks! This could be the case. Yes, carbon assembly paste. Canyon is shipping another stem to try. In the meanwhile, the bicycle is rideable.
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Dec 15, 2020 11:22
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DevCore posted:Oh right, I thought they only made the one - the five rail Minoura Gamoh and Basil Portland are, I think, the two cheapest available porter style racks where I am. The cheaper you go with racks the more frustrating they tend to be though: rattly fixings, cheese bolts and less adjustability. If you're OK with putting a bit of time into setting them up and maybe replacing a bolt or two they're fine.
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Dec 15, 2020 12:23
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Anybody have any recommendations on cheap and cheerful truing stands? I want to rebuild a bent to poo poo real wheel in the most inconvenient way possible (high flange hub, 27" rim, 4-cross lacing) and rather than pay the LBS I thought it would be a good excuse to work on a skill. The cheapest option would be to just do it with the wheel on the bike and just use a pen or something to check the rim, but I'm expecting that to be frustrating and looking to make my life simpler. The Park Tools TS-8 is available here but at $180 CAD is probably a bit steep for what's basically a whim. Other options are crappy Chinese eBay things, but they look a bit poo poo and I don't want to wait 60 days to have it shipped over. Thoughts?
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Dec 15, 2020 21:49
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dieselfruit posted:Anybody have any recommendations on cheap and cheerful truing stands? I want to rebuild a bent to poo poo real wheel in the most inconvenient way possible (high flange hub, 27" rim, 4-cross lacing) and rather than pay the LBS I thought it would be a good excuse to work on a skill. If you want to buy something, get a good dishing guage and just use whatever you can to hold the wheel. If you enjoy the experience, keep an eye out for a good used stand. You'll still need the dishing tool because stands go out of center all the time.
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Dec 15, 2020 22:19
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dieselfruit posted:Anybody have any recommendations on cheap and cheerful truing stands? I want to rebuild a bent to poo poo real wheel in the most inconvenient way possible (high flange hub, 27" rim, 4-cross lacing) and rather than pay the LBS I thought it would be a good excuse to work on a skill. I used to use a couple of cable ties for wheel straightening, Use a reasonably large size and put one on either seat stay if you cut them off and leave a pointed end you can twist them around to adjust the gap between the end of the cable tie and brake track. to check wheel dish just reverse the wheel in the frame. This explains it better. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6t5g46
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Dec 15, 2020 23:57
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Do I need an adapter to change from a FSA crank with a press fit BB (this is an older Cervelo frame so I think it's a BBright style)? I don't need to swap the BB for any particular reason but changing from the FSA crank it came with to a R7000 crank...Shimano documation doesn't mention anything for using their BBs but seems like wheels manufacturing makes an adapter...?
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Dec 16, 2020 15:46
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Levitate posted:Do I need an adapter to change from a FSA crank with a press fit BB (this is an older Cervelo frame so I think it's a BBright style)? I don't need to swap the BB for any particular reason but changing from the FSA crank it came with to a R7000 crank...Shimano documation doesn't mention anything for using their BBs but seems like wheels manufacturing makes an adapter...? Not sure how or if it’s changed but when i moved to a Shimano crank on a press fit frame i had to get a new BB.
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Dec 16, 2020 15:50
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Levitate posted:Do I need an adapter to change from a FSA crank with a press fit BB (this is an older Cervelo frame so I think it's a BBright style)? I don't need to swap the BB for any particular reason but changing from the FSA crank it came with to a R7000 crank...Shimano documation doesn't mention anything for using their BBs but seems like wheels manufacturing makes an adapter...? BBright is just another version of BB30 that’s a little wider (but not as wide as BB386). A shimano crank will work with the appropriate spacers. fake e: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OH9FT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3gI2FbNYN1SHZ
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Dec 16, 2020 16:03
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yeah just found that, I guess the thing is the spindle size as BBRight is for 30mm spindles and Shimano stuff is 24 Since the BB doesn't creak and seems to spin fine I'd rather not replace it if I can avoid that and will just try the adapter...and have to figure out chainline and spacers 
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Dec 16, 2020 16:22
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I don't care if I have to screw it in with a wrench, press it in with a bearing press, or hammer it in with my face, I just want us to go back to one loving BB standard.
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Dec 16, 2020 16:22
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EvilJoven posted:I don't care if I have to screw it in with a wrench, press it in with a bearing press, or hammer it in with my face, I just want us to go back to one loving BB standard. Swiss it is!
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Dec 16, 2020 17:33
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Levitate posted:yeah just found that, I guess the thing is the spindle size as BBRight is for 30mm spindles and Shimano stuff is 24 I’d for sure do spacers before dealing with pressfit malarkey if the BB itself is fine.
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Dec 16, 2020 17:43
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https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bbright/bbright-adapters/bbright-adapter-for-shimano-cranks.html
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Dec 16, 2020 17:46
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CopperHound posted:https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bbright/bbright-adapters/bbright-adapter-for-shimano-cranks.html yeah thats what epilot linked
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Dec 16, 2020 18:37
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My mistake. I can't read.
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Dec 16, 2020 18:47
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so hmm...I guess the best move is just to measure the existing clearance with the current crankset and when I install the adapater and new crankset, make sure the chainring and crank clearance is the same and if not, add spacers as needed Or I guess go through the trouble of measuring the actual chainline and such
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Dec 16, 2020 19:23
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I just installed a new 11sp 105 chain and 11x34 cassette on an 11sp Ultegra long cage rear derailleur. I'm getting a strange knocking in the rear derailleur in the smallest three cogs mostly and am having a hell of a time figuring out what's going on. Shifting is otherwise smooth and the chain doesn't seem to be skipping. Any ideas?
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Dec 16, 2020 22:05
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In which ring up front? Small ring will probably make noise in those gears. Large ring, have you tried the barrel adjuster to change the cable tension? Quarter turn clockwise see if it gets better or worse, repeat as necessary or try the other direction. Finally, derailleur hanger might be bent a bit which could cause issues
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Dec 17, 2020 00:51
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kgibson posted:11x34 cassette on an 11sp Ultegra long cage rear derailleur. I'm getting a strange knocking in the rear derailleur Is it the MTB/10spd freehub width that needs a spacer for 11spd freehub bodies? If it's sliding loose on there, that would normally cause weird shifting behavior, but if only some of the smaller cogs are loosies, maybe what you're feeling is the whole cassette sliding left and right?
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Dec 17, 2020 01:16
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Yes it would be. All the shimano 11s cassettes with a 34t or larger cog fit on 10s freehubs and need a spacer with 11s hubs.
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Dec 17, 2020 02:07
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Thanks all. Yes, I have the correct spacer installed. I've done lots of cable tension adjusting, checked the B-screw, taken off the wheel and re-tightened the cassette lockring. I had a fleeting that that maybe I sized the chain incorrectly but it seems fine after doing a bit of research. As far as the noise, it seems worst in the big ring and the smallest three cogs but I'm not feeling any play in the cassette itself. Anything I'm missing? The only other thought I had was that I had pulled the pulleys off and thoroughly cleaned them; maybe I overdid it?
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Dec 17, 2020 02:21
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My 2x10 Deore XT bike has “HG-X chain only” on the chainring. I’d rather use a connex chain. What’s the downside of using a non HG-X chain?
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Dec 17, 2020 17:42
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Shimano gets super duper mad at you for not buying their chain. Also maaaaaybe it won't shift quite as nice but you probably won't even notice.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:51
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I hate the connecting pins on Shimano chains so whatever minimal performance loss by going to kmc (or similar) is worth the missing link.
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Dec 17, 2020 19:39
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SRAM quicklinks work on Shimano 9-11 speed. KMC also sells quicklinks separately. Also Shimano 11 and 12s chains now have quicklinks. One thing though is when using Shimano SRAM or KMC for any speed above 8 you can't keep pulling them apart like connex links. The manual says you can remove and reinstall 9 speeds a few times but I find the second time it's super loose. That being said the trick to master pins is to both remove normal pins and in install master pins (dont remove master pins, also dont break chains by pushing a normal pin out part way then back in) by pushing them through back to front. Edited for clarity. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 19:46
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I'm not sure I understand still, and this is a part of bike mechanics I'd like to get straight. So I should push out the normal pins and then use a spare master pin (or quicklink) to reconnect the link?
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Dec 17, 2020 22:15
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Al2001 posted:I'm not sure I understand still, and this is a part of bike mechanics I'd like to get straight. So I should push out the normal pins and then use a spare master pin (or quicklink) to reconnect the link? yes!
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Dec 17, 2020 22:32
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Yup. Pushing a pin out far enough to break the chain leaving one end in the outer plate and then pushing the same pin back in risks the chain coming apart under load. It was fine on old wide arse chains with a lot of material on the outer plate but not advisable in any modern bike chain. Anyone who says otherwise is risking their anatomy to save a few bucks on a master pin/quicklink.
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Dec 17, 2020 22:34
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no wippermann connex no care 
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Dec 17, 2020 23:42
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e.pilot posted:no wippermann connex no care
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Dec 17, 2020 23:57
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kgibson posted:Thanks all. Yes, I have the correct spacer installed. Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address: https://imgur.com/UwrgWLA  (Sorry for the shakiness and portrait orientation.) The clicking in the third to smallest cog is the issue. The same noise is present to a lesser extent in the fourth largest. They seem worse in the small ring but are present in both.
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Dec 21, 2020 02:34
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That's some pretty exhaustive troubleshooting. Maybe check the alignment of your derailleur hanger?
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Dec 21, 2020 02:43
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Yeah, that seems to be the direction this is headed... (and it will give me an excuse to spend $ on a new tool)
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Dec 21, 2020 04:26
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Copy/paste from the main thread because I forgot there was a maintenance thread. Started my rebuild on this yesterday.  Found an almost flawless pair of Ultegra RS-685; shifters for $75 so that decided the path of my build. I grabbed a matching long cage rear derailleur, 105 hydraulic brakes, Dura-Ace cabling, all the poo poo to convert to hydraulic, Cadence bar tape and some SKS fenders I’m probably gonna return and get PDWs. Wanted a pair of Ultegra or GRX brakes, but there were none in Portland, I could only find rears. Same for the front derailleur. There was one shop in town that had a GRX front that would work, but they’re closed on Sunday’s apparently. So I’m gonna stick with the 105 that’s on there for now. Chose the wrong weekend to do this since there’s not enough space in my garage to set up my stand. I had enough time to strip everything in the driveway yesterday before the big rains hit, and then had to relocate to my office and go with the old “seat and bars” work stand. Hope it dries up enough later so when I finally have it all together I can get the brakes bled etc. Anything I need to watch out for setting up these brakes? I’ve never done anything with hydraulic brakes on a bike, so any advice would be appreciated. Getting those copper inserts into the end of each line proved too much with the rain (my bench vise is not easily accessed). The rain never let up so I basically just hosed with different cabling configs, got high and cleaned things up. Each set of bearings on this bike are amazing. Give either of the wheels a slight bit of effort and that poo poo quietly spins forever.
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Dec 21, 2020 09:04
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