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X(mas)post from 30k threadMajor Spag posted:Thread seems dead (like this game). Time to poast before I get drowned by actual good painters:
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Dec 21, 2020 22:15
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I give Simple Green 8-24 hours, usually
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Dec 21, 2020 22:17
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Just an update on my stripping adventures: I soaked the miniatures for about 24 hours in Super Clean (purple bottle from Autozone) and it got the blue paint loose and scrubbable off, it nearly melted the red paint off. Gold didnt want to budge as much as the blue but still came off. I was reading that LA’s totally awesome is much much better at getting it off, so I drained the batch and soaked them. Did a test brush at 2ish hours and it was melting the blue and part of the primer off  . Going to leave it in for 24 hours and scrub again.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:01
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So I live in a cold hell climate, so I put in an order for some brush on primer, got white, black, and grey of the vallejo polyurethane primer. Is there anything I need to know about it going in? I plan to bush it on since I don't have an airbrush, but I don't know if I need to do any additional prep work for the minis or anything. I typically just use rustoleum rattle cans, when weather permits, so brush on primer is new for me.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:17
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Werix posted:So I live in a cold hell climate, so I put in an order for some brush on primer, got white, black, and grey of the vallejo polyurethane primer. Is there anything I need to know about it going in? I plan to bush it on since I don't have an airbrush, but I don't know if I need to do any additional prep work for the minis or anything. I typically just use rustoleum rattle cans, when weather permits, so brush on primer is new for me. Thin it a teeeeeeeeny tiny bit and treat it like a big dumb wash. If you see brush strokes or streakyness or it's not fully opaque, it's fine because you're painting over this layer. It's better to put on a little less than you need instead of clogging detail. Don't use a good brush, use the largest one you can that can still reach into crevices. Eventually after priming a bunch of poo poo you're going to get super lazy and sloppy, so expect tiny specs of primer to fly everywhere as you think "oh my god i'm so tired of this just let me be done"
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Dec 21, 2020 23:24
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Werix posted:So I live in a cold hell climate, so I put in an order for some brush on primer, got white, black, and grey of the vallejo polyurethane primer. Is there anything I need to know about it going in? I plan to bush it on since I don't have an airbrush, but I don't know if I need to do any additional prep work for the minis or anything. I typically just use rustoleum rattle cans, when weather permits, so brush on primer is new for me. You're gonna get bubbles so make sure to blow gently on the mini after brushing it on to remove as many as possible because they will show up once it dries. The primer will probably also not cover 100% in solid color, but it'll still work fine.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:26
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 Thanks for the good feedback. Did thunder hammer guy with a muzzle flash light source coming from his front left, this is much better.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:20
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Maybe you are already doing this this go 'round, but could you try setting the whole squad up in the final group pose you want and then noting down how each model would be lit by a single overarching light source in the environment and then maybe how the secondary ones from significant elements in the squad (assault cannon dude and librarian, mostly) play across the different models? Then you would have a plan for how the 2-3 major external sources would act on each model and you could add individual lighting within a model from their own gun or whatever after getting a first pass on the whole squad.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:38
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Werix posted:So I live in a cold hell climate, so I put in an order for some brush on primer, got white, black, and grey of the vallejo polyurethane primer. Is there anything I need to know about it going in? I plan to bush it on since I don't have an airbrush, but I don't know if I need to do any additional prep work for the minis or anything. I typically just use rustoleum rattle cans, when weather permits, so brush on primer is new for me. In the event that you have trouble with brush-on primer, putting your cans in a warm water bath for a little while before you spray with them, managing the distance you spray from the model, and drying in a container can all help make cold weather spraying a little more viable, at least during daylight hours
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Dec 22, 2020 04:17
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So it all started when the wife wanted to paint one of the boyz She was unhappy with using leadbelcher as a silver and went rummaging around in the craft drawers and found some enamel paint. Now I have a very shiny random deathskull in my army. Then the older kid(15) wanted to paint some.  She kept with my orange theme but also dipped into the enamels a bit. Then the younger(7) kid wanted to paint one of my guys, since everyone else was. I had previously kept her to painting other minis of her own.  Perfection! If this pandemic ever clears up and I actually get to play this army, I'm stealing this guy back. And that is how I got all my boyz finished painting.
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Dec 22, 2020 06:16
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Getting dudes done in squads instead of ping ponging across stuff. Power armor is fun and easy, I'm getting the hang of panel lining quickly and figuring out how perfect things need to be. Still gotta clean up the rims on the right two guys since I thought I did them already, and still need to put transfers onto 3 of them but I figured that's a tomorrow problem.
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Dec 22, 2020 07:04
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Just impulse bought an ultrasonic cleaner in Lidl, and tried it out on some of the miniatures in the "Put back on ebay when you can be bothered" box (Mainly duplicate stuff that came as part of a bigger lot). Where has this thing been all my life? I can heartily recommend it for stripping miniatures. Put a bunch of figures in, added meths (my paint stripper of choice), put it on for 6 minutes and the paint literally fell off the plastic when I touched the figure with a toothbrush. It looks like its fresh of the sprue. The metals took a few more cycles (I stopped running it after about 30 minutes because the meths had risen to about body temperature and I let it cool down because I am not in the mood for dealing with a house fire today, so better safe than sorry) and a little scrubbing with a toothbrush/prodding with a toothpick, but honestly 3 x 6 minute cycles did the same job as soaking in the meths for hours ordinarily does. Also broke apart superglue (and softened greenstuff where the previous owner had modelled hair on a gremlin) but I'm not 100% if thats the ultrasonic or just a reaction with the meths. I dont think it normally breaks superglue bonds, but I couldnt swear to it. So, more than makes up for the fact I forgot to buy tea bags which was the whole reason I went out.
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Dec 22, 2020 16:46
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SiKboy posted:Just impulse bought an ultrasonic cleaner in Lidl, and tried it out on some of the miniatures in the "Put back on ebay when you can be bothered" box (Mainly duplicate stuff that came as part of a bigger lot). Where has this thing been all my life? I can heartily recommend it for stripping miniatures. Put a bunch of figures in, added meths (my paint stripper of choice), put it on for 6 minutes and the paint literally fell off the plastic when I touched the figure with a toothbrush. It looks like its fresh of the sprue. The metals took a few more cycles (I stopped running it after about 30 minutes because the meths had risen to about body temperature and I let it cool down because I am not in the mood for dealing with a house fire today, so better safe than sorry) and a little scrubbing with a toothbrush/prodding with a toothpick, but honestly 3 x 6 minute cycles did the same job as soaking in the meths for hours ordinarily does. Also broke apart superglue (and softened greenstuff where the previous owner had modelled hair on a gremlin) but I'm not 100% if thats the ultrasonic or just a reaction with the meths. I dont think it normally breaks superglue bonds, but I couldnt swear to it. uuhhh... on what days are you generally ready to deal with house fires....? Seriously though, I keep hearing about this and it sounds like I need one. I have lots of old eldar models to strip and the soak situation is what is stopping me from bothering to do it.
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Dec 22, 2020 17:42
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Spiv posted:uuhhh... on what days are you generally ready to deal with house fires....? Just not today, I'm in no mood. Its been kind of a year. Nah, it should be safe enough, but everything I saw online with people doing similar all said "probably dont run it longer than half an hour with meths" which seems like a reasonable precaution (at that point it was slightly warmer than body temperature, so not going to boil or anything, but no point taking chances). If you were using a less flammable paint stripper (yer simple greens and so on) it wouldnt be a concern. I really do recommend it (with my whole one afternoons experience...), I just wish I'd had it when I bought a massive ebay lot of badly painted figures. This one was £19.99, has a capacity of about 600 ml (according to the box) and would be fine for stripping infantry squads. If you wanted to strip more figures at once, or vehicles bigger than jetbikes, you'd want a bigger one.
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Dec 22, 2020 19:02
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I got back into painting after a few months with this old Vampire Counts battle standard bearer. The banner turned out gross enough, so I'm pretty pleased.
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Dec 22, 2020 22:23
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Ok, Bjorn done. That wasn't as bad as I expected. Varnish is still drying around the transfer so it looks cloudy  And seeing how it looks with the other guys 
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Dec 23, 2020 05:15
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Bad Decision Dino posted:I got back into painting after a few months with this old Vampire Counts battle standard bearer. The banner turned out gross enough, so I'm pretty pleased. That's horrifying, great job
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Dec 23, 2020 11:02
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Bad Decision Dino posted:I got back into painting after a few months with this old Vampire Counts battle standard bearer. The banner turned out gross enough, so I'm pretty pleased. this shits dope. I haven't even played a game of fantasy with all these vampires I grabbed at the beginning of lockdown and I'm super jealous.
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Dec 23, 2020 17:09
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Getting into painting miniatures, starting with some practice kits and the Power Rangers Heroes of the Grid board game. The OP was really useful and I've been watching YouTube tutorials. I'm new to painting miniatures, but not to painting in general. Thing is, I don't want to paint the miniatures in the grimy, realistic WH40k style that uses dark washes and bright highlights to simulate the effects of realistic natural light. That stuff looks cool, but I'd prefer to do bright, flat colors with clean lines and minimal detail, like this Gurihiru MMPR cover. Has anyone seen examples of something like that done well on miniatures, or have any resources related to it? I have some ideas of how to approach it, but I'm trying to educate myself on the unforeseen challenges.
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Dec 23, 2020 17:20
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I honestly can't think of any high level miniature painting that just uses flat colors. Maybe Gundam stuff but that's a way larger scale than the stuff this thread typically looks at. Chibi minis generally painted with large areas of solid color but still usually have plenty of shading and highlights. If you're just looking to paint solid shapes like those power rangers uniforms I'd focus on painting smooth basecoats. This mainly comes from proper paint thinning/consistency and brush control. The way to get the smoothest coats and sharpest shapes would probably with an airbrush and masks/stencils, but I wouldn't recommend jumping into that right away.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:14
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You could always try to apply a cel--shading artstyle with very hard shadows for that comic book feel. ArcSystemWorks has some of the best cel-shading in videogames right now if you want to see some in motion for ideas on how and where to place shadows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ6pwvtXxZs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scAw2YxwZEM Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 18:33
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Painted Bjorn yesterday but will likely only use Axe/Shield in games. Still wanted to paint up this way first to get it out of the way. 
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Dec 23, 2020 19:39
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Spanish Manlove posted:Painted Bjorn yesterday but will likely only use Axe/Shield in games. Still wanted to paint up this way first to get it out of the way. This looks dope. Nice work!
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Dec 23, 2020 22:15
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A line of minis isn't stuck to one painting style. Lots of people paint everything in whatever way they want so there's nothing wrong with looking at 40k painters for ideas.   (Actually Sigmar but same model manufacturer)
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Dec 23, 2020 22:34
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I’m sure this is just an echo but hot drat does LA’s awesome cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner machine make short work of stripping miniatures. I’ve been running things in and out of it today while I’ve been doing other things and its just melting the paints off.
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Dec 23, 2020 23:53
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Spanish Manlove posted:You could always try to apply a cel--shading artstyle with very hard shadows for that comic book feel. ArcSystemWorks has some of the best cel-shading in videogames right now if you want to see some in motion for ideas on how and where to place shadows Eej posted:A line of minis isn't stuck to one painting style. Lots of people paint everything in whatever way they want so there's nothing wrong with looking at 40k painters for ideas. Thanks for all the advice. Think I'll grab some practice minis, try out different stuff and see if I land on anything that feels like it works. Might as well have fun with it.
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Dec 24, 2020 00:00
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Goons who've used Acryl Pro paints. I keep hearing about them, I checked them out online and the sell themselves well. Are they worth it? Over the other main brands (I primarily use GW, but as my paint skill improves, I'm looking to branch out to better paints), how do they perform? Kind of moot point right now, as most places I looked, they were sold out.
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Dec 24, 2020 00:10
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BIG DRYWALL MAN posted:I’m sure this is just an echo but hot drat does LA’s awesome cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner machine make short work of stripping miniatures. I’ve been running things in and out of it today while I’ve been doing other things and its just melting the paints off. Nice! Does it just take them down to the primer or bare plastic?
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Dec 24, 2020 01:45
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Spiv posted:Goons who've used Acryl Pro paints. I keep hearing about them, I checked them out online and the sell themselves well. Are they worth it? Over the other main brands (I primarily use GW, but as my paint skill improves, I'm looking to branch out to better paints), how do they perform? Kind of moot point right now, as most places I looked, they were sold out. I like the colors I have. They do separate on a wet pallate quicker than other brands, but that’s still after hours. I like their lids a lot. I want to say they are Reaper paint consistency? You should be able to find an online coupon for your first order too.
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Dec 24, 2020 02:45
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Paddyo posted:Nice! Does it just take them down to the primer or bare plastic? Primer is starting to come off as well. I am going to leave it in the soak for a few more days with some more ultrasonic cleaning and it’ll probably be down to the original plastic soon.
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Dec 24, 2020 03:13
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Spiv posted:Goons who've used Acryl Pro paints. I keep hearing about them, I checked them out online and the sell themselves well. Are they worth it? Over the other main brands (I primarily use GW, but as my paint skill improves, I'm looking to branch out to better paints), how do they perform? Kind of moot point right now, as most places I looked, they were sold out. First GW paints are very good, so if you’ve already got them there’s no reason to replace them. You generally won’t get significantly better results with other brands (there are exceptions for some colors like white).The problem with GW paints is that they’re more expensive for what you get and their bottles are garbage. As for pro-acryl, I’ve managed to get a whole set by signing up for notifications on their website and then ordering as soon as I’m notified that they’re in stock. The sets tend to sell out fast. I dislike the twist tops, but they sell flip toppers for cheap to go with them and I recommend spending a couple bucks to add them. I’ve only used a few colors, their metallics are good, not metal color good, but as good as any traditional metallics I’ve used and available in a full range of colors. The other colors I’ve used have been really good, flat, smooth with good coverage. Properly thinned they go through the airbrush well. I haven’t noticed any difference in consistency between the different colors so I expect the whole range to perform similarly. The bottles are bigger than VGC/reaper which makes them a good value, but it also means they’re harder to store. Overall I wouldn’t throw out good existing paints and replace them with pro-acryl. I still use Vallejo, Reaper, AP and Citadel for specific purposes. But if you want to start moving to dropper bottles, they’re a good choice.
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Dec 24, 2020 08:42
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All done                  16 tiles so far
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Dec 24, 2020 15:22
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 Very nice.
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Dec 24, 2020 16:05
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Very impressive little project you've done there. Great job
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Dec 24, 2020 17:36
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Merry Ho Ho, Miniature Painting thread! Here's a Deathwatch Novamarines Chaplain I finished up today.    (Oop! Forgot to paint the rim before taking pics!)
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Dec 25, 2020 07:46
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These little fancy lads are a lot of fun to paint but oh my GOD there's a reason I never paint human minis - eyes suck rear end. At least I feel pretty good about painting white now. Turns out corax white + apothecary white contrast is a magic formula. 
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Dec 25, 2020 13:14
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:These little fancy lads are a lot of fun to paint but oh my GOD there's a reason I never paint human minis - eyes suck rear end. I think he looks pretty good! If you dont like painting eyes, do what I do: Dont paint eyes. If you look at an actual human being (or, in these trying times, a photo of one), then back away from them until they seem to be about the same size as a 28mm miniature at arms length. How much of the white of the eye can you actually see on the photo of the real person? Now, "heroic scale" means the faces (and thus the eyes) are disproportionately large on a lot of figures, but I still feel like you can almost always get away with just putting a heavier wash in the eye socket and calling it a day. Now, if someone likes painting eyes and can make it look good, great, they should keep doing that. I cant. I've tried and I cant. The eyes look bulging, then I have to spend time fixing where the white went over the skin tone around the eye, then I try and do the pupils and they look cross eyed or... whatever the opposite of cross eyed is (Wall eyed I think?), so I have to hit the white again, and oh gently caress now its on the cheek. When I do pupils I just use a micro fine line pen, so thats one less pain, but... For me I'm happier when I just hit the eyes with a second coat of skin tone wash (or black for spooky figures, or green or blue if they are supposed to be wearing eye make up, or hexwraith flame/tesseract glow for glowing magic eyes, whatever). There are exceptions, If a character has big eyes, and their face is angled up, I'll give it a go because the shadowed effect of the wash doesnt seem natural, or if its a large figure (monster or whatever, but in all honesty if its not human/human adjacent like a giant or something I'm happy enough to just give the eye a hit with a contrast paint and go with "well, thats what these monsters eye look like. Swamp monsters have red eyes with no visible pupil, show me where it says they dont. Every Malifaux gremlin I've painted has had either solid red or solid blue eyes.) but no-one is going to come round and throw all your figures in the bin and snap all your brushes if you dont do white eyes with black dots for pupils. I've been happy with the eyes I got trying that precisely once, and even then she looks extremely surprised when lined up next to the rest of the figures that dont have their whites/pupils painted in.. And again, I want to emphasise; This is not me saying its wrong to paint eyes, or that people shouldn't. I'm just saying if you don't, almost no one will notice. Especially in person, when you take a photo of the miniature and its 1200 pixels tall, thats actually more zoomed in on the figure than anyone is going to be in real life ever, including you while painting it.
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Dec 25, 2020 14:05
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Now I have eradicators. Ho ho ho  Went full Mr. Freeze with the sergeant, thought it would be fitting. And yeah, I didn't look too hard when pulling models from the to-do pile and accidentally painted up two of the same model for the squad. I'm going to run six eventually but my new thing is to work on a unit at a time, slowly building up to the full 2000pt list I made.
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Dec 25, 2020 15:21
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SiKboy posted:I think he looks pretty good! Squidmar actually has an insanely good video on how to paint eyes. Starts off with the anatomy and colors of an eye, then paints it on a bust. Then he goes into how to do it on a heroic scale mini, which is basically "paint in eye color, add a little white dot on the lateral edge, use micron pen to make pupil on superior edge of the eye" But I wholly agree with you, you can't do detailed eyes on such a small scale. So it's better to give the illusion of eyes. On my thunderwolf calv test model I kinda hosed up the left eye and after a few attempts it had too much paint and lost detail. So I decided "you know what, dude only has one eye. it's a norse thing, like odin or whatever" and it's barely noticeable unless I mention it. I also did a cheeky thing to keep it thematic, there's a skull on his right pauldron so I blacked out the left eye on the skull to match the face. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bQkQiMKex0 Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Dec 25, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2020 15:25
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Cooked Auto posted:
w00tmonger posted:Very impressive little project you've done there. Great job thanks guys 
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Dec 25, 2020 20:41
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