|
still dont know how i managed to get a decent installed price for carpet and laminate in the middle of this dumpster fire. but i'm gettin fancy new floors on the 14th 
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 23:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 15:34 |
|
|
falz posted:Without reading blog, why do the windows and doors have to come from Europe? Because passivehaus is mainly a European thing, there aren't a whole ton of US-based triple-glazed passivehaus-standard windows in the market currently. There are a few like Aspen (Alpen?) and Marvin which make them I believe but they get much lower ratings than the ones we purchased (it came down to two -- Schuco and Aluprof). Then there's the fact that our builder and our architect both worked with these manufacturers before (our architect has them in his house and put them in the last few buildings he's designed and our builder put these in all of his passivehaus builds) and it just made sense for us.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 23:30
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I mean if you search “Bosch axxis not turning” there’s a few YouTube results for how to change the brushes. That's probably good enough to say "yep, it's that common". I just had to rip apart my LG TROMM because not only did it catch on fire but 2 of the 4 bearings in the wheels the the tub moves on were seized. Both of these things are totally "normal".
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 23:31
|
|
|
Lol I literally worked in white goods endurance and abuse testing and never once had to change a set of motor brushes because of wear, even across simulated decades of use. And that wasn't for a prestige brand either.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 23:38
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I mean if you search “Bosch axxis not turning” there’s a few YouTube results for how to change the brushes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 23:39
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Hoping this is the right thread. Just asking because you recently closed - are you sure that the condo association isn't responsible for exterior repairs? Even if they aren't responsible, have you checked to see if you need their review to proceed with the work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 04:37
|
|
|
L0cke17 posted:We were saving to redo our fence this summer and the price of fencing projects nearly doubled this year because wood is so much more expensive around here Good luck... I ripped out a chainlink fence and installed a vinyl fence this summer with the help of my dad, and it took months to get all the materials and install everything. Technically I’m still waiting on a caster for the other half of the fence gate over the driveway Meanwhile the new neighbor next door had a contractor come in and install a wooden fence and his crew was done in an afternoon. Back of the napkin math says I spent about half of what he did per square foot, plus I got materials that should pretty well last forever with minimal maintenance. But I also ran into a lot of difficulties and honestly, the extra price premium is probably worth it considering the time, hassle, and labor of the whole project.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 08:59
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Good luck... I ripped out a chainlink fence and installed a vinyl fence this summer with the help of my dad, and it took months to get all the materials and install everything. Technically I’m still waiting on a caster for the other half of the fence gate over the driveway Were 100% just gonna pay someone to do it for us. Do not want to deal with that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
Deviant posted:still dont know how i managed to get a decent installed price for carpet and laminate in the middle of this dumpster fire. Feburary now. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 17:28
|
|
|
Tezer posted:Just asking because you recently closed - are you sure that the condo association isn't responsible for exterior repairs? Even if they aren't responsible, have you checked to see if you need their review to proceed with the work? It's an association of two, so shouldn't be an issue. I'm going to double check the trust and association bylaws, but iirc windows aren't covered by the association.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 18:15
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:It's an association of two, so shouldn't be an issue. Ah, got it. You've got one of the harder types of projects - there is a ton of different skills required (or subcontractors), but it's a really small project so not a lot of money involved, and you don't have an existing relationship with a general contractor. One avenue to take would be to figure out what window you want installed (brand) and ask the local distributor for a contractor recommendation.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 18:28
|
|
|
I now own a house, which is cool. It has [Kährs]oak floors, which are also cool. However, what is not cool is my dog's claws make scratches on the floor (yes, they are clipped, but she still manages to dig em in when she runs, AND she has tried to dig the floor in excitement). Googling suggested rubbing some Linseed oil into the scratches, which worked for most of them, but a few it made them very dark as if I had coloured them in with a marker and I don't know why. Can anyone explain and/or suggest a better way to deal with them?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 21:01
|
|
|
First: Merry Christmas y'all! Let's talk basement subfloors! I've got a basement that needs flooring. It's just concrete now. Key points: - there's a bunch of divets from pulling out carpet nails, and old laminate glue. - ceilings are quite low in some spots, I'm willing to pay more for thinner - I'd prefer to DIY. Wed like to go with tile for about half (hallways, bathrooms, areas by walkout door and fireplace), and probably a vinyl plank for the living area (I understand carpet is a bit meh in basements). There's also a few areas that are just storage/utility, so perhaps just a cheap laminate direct to concrete there. It seems like those dimple sheets are maybe 1/4" and sound like they're effective at buffering the floor from the cold for vinyl. For tile I'd need something like ditra no? Or more classically, plywood+cement board maybe? I've also seen dricore, it's thicker, and I like the idea of one subfloor material for the whole thing, but I'm not actually sure you could tile right to that osb, feels like you'd still need a backer. Does anyone have any thoughts on this, or some concerns I may have missed?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 21:32
|
|
|
falz posted:Dishwasher oved to adjacent side of the sink should be easy if: Ikea SEKTION rails make this so much easier. As does a laser level. Anyway, it turns out there's a fun punch-hole behind where my microwave was. It goes about 14" down from the above stove cabinet, and my shorty style microwave is only 10" high. 1) Patch drywall. If I do it it will look like poo poo, hence exploring other options. 2) Buy new full sized microwave, sell the other one (1 year old, was $450) 3) get/build some sort of slim 4" shelf to put below the cabinets, mount microwave below that. These are all IKEA and I can't really find anything like that from them, and I'd want it to match. 4) Any other ideas?  
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 21:59
|
|
|
Hire a drywall guy to patch and skim coat it, or do it yourself and plan on installing backsplash tile over the patch. No one will ever notice it. A drywall guy could probably do that patch and a few layers of 20 minute joint compound in a very short amount of time. I paid a drywaller $300 to redo all of the taping and install some additional screws in the ceiling boards in my garage where I had some nail pop-- this is in Austin, TX where it seems like some contractor work is more expensive or harder to source. Edit: Nice progress on your Sektion install. You must have much flatter walls that I did. The amount of shimming I had to do to get the rail to be uniformly straight along one of my walls was insane. The rail installation was easily the biggest pain in the rear end of my kitchen remodel. See: my post history in this thread for photos. I can't seem to login to imgur to grab a photo of my kitchen install. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Dec 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 22:29
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Hire a drywall guy to patch and skim coat it, or do it yourself and plan on installing backsplash tile over the patch. No one will ever notice it. Yeah I texted a drywall dude on Craigslist the other day, but it's Christmas so haven't heard back yet. I do plan on doing a backlash but wanted to maybe do that next year for budgetary purposes, doing cabinets, floor, counters, sink, faucet, and some windows is enough for this winter. That stove wall had no issues with the railing. The other wall has a curve in it near the end, off camera. I'm not going to dry fit that one before floor is done because it's a huge 90" tall pantry thing and is pretty unmanageable. I actually shimmed one screw on that using the metal clasp things that you use for the rail screws. Seemed to work? Dug through your history, whattup voxtorp dark walnut bro. Looks great! I really like the look of it more in certain lights as it seems.. darker? You seem to have that going on.  
falz fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Dec 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 00:55
|
|
|
Install fancy short microwave, glue cute tile over the hole. (A little hook rack for spatulas or magnetic board for recipes would be good too.)
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 01:08
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Let's talk basement subfloors! Some durable laminate flooring in every area. Bathrooms can have wood-look floors, as a treat. You can also get laminate that looks like tile.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 01:13
|
|
|
Darkrenown posted:Googling suggested rubbing some Linseed oil into the scratches, which worked for most of them, but a few it made them very dark as if I had coloured them in with a marker and I don't know why. Can anyone explain and/or suggest a better way to deal with them? Did it turn dark immediately, or after some time passed? My first guess is simply that dust got trapped in the scratch. The internet has a more sinister suggestion… https://www.permachink.com/blog/all-about-linseed-oil
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 01:26
|
|
|
peanut posted:Did it turn dark immediately, or after some time passed? My first guess is simply that dust got trapped in the scratch. I thought most linseed oil is boiled and mixed with chemicals. I find it a little hard to believe mold would survive that but I guess it wouldn't be impossible.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 04:07
|
|
|
peanut posted:Some durable laminate flooring in every area. Bathrooms can have wood-look floors, as a treat. You can also get laminate that looks like tile. Is this not cold on concrete? What sub-floor is ideal here?
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 04:14
|
|
|
I put a 5/64" foam underlayment under some (extremely cheap) laminate in my basement office, and so far it hasn't gotten much colder than the wood floors in the rest of my house. The underlayment is directly on top of the concrete, and this is in Minnesota, where it's been quite cold this week.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 04:37
|
|
|
peanut posted:Did it turn dark immediately, or after some time passed? My first guess is simply that dust got trapped in the scratch. It was more or less immediate. I'm not sure if it happened instantly, but certainly under 30 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 10:12
|
|
|
Is there a basic recessed light fixture I can install above my shower with a heat lamp of some sort? I'm tired of being cold after showering in the winter. My attic insulation is deficient, and needs to be redone at some point but yeah. I wanna be washed in warm light.l, and then maybe I'd use less hot water.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 10:13
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Is there a basic recessed light fixture I can install above my shower with a heat lamp of some sort? I'm tired of being cold after showering in the winter. A wet rated heat light is probably a thing, but it will almost certainly require a dedicated circuit to run on. Are you prepared to do that? I believe Panasonic has a heat option for their fans. Why not use a modern space heater? (not in your shower...)
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Is there a basic recessed light fixture I can install above my shower with a heat lamp of some sort? I'm tired of being cold after showering in the winter. I had the same problem and I just bought a bathrobe. Dry off quickly, wrap in layers of fleece and its infinitely better than it was before. They even make bathrobe warmers you can install that keep your bathrobe warm while you shower.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 18:02
|
|
|
peanut posted:Some durable laminate flooring in every area. Bathrooms can have wood-look floors, as a treat. You can also get laminate that looks like tile. Is this vinyl tile? I've read the terms can get mixed up a lot, and where I am I don't see anything advertised as laminate that isn't wood-like planks. There are vinyl products that look like tile though. Since I do have some water concerns, the vinyl seems a better choice here, but I think that might be what you mean...? Elder Postsman posted:I put a 5/64" foam underlayment under some (extremely cheap) laminate in my basement office, and so far it hasn't gotten much colder than the wood floors in the rest of my house. The underlayment is directly on top of the concrete, and this is in Minnesota, where it's been quite cold this week. This is like the white foam rolls? That's pretty great to hear, as it'd be much nicer than going with a 3/4" dricore or similar. I do find the idea of using the same type of product very appealing. Unfortunately we're in lockdown now, so it's going to be hard to convince the wife that the feel of the vinyl-type tile is similar enough to warrant it. Might just need to ship some samples and hope they're close enough to what we'd go with.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 18:38
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Is there a basic recessed light fixture I can install above my shower with a heat lamp of some sort? I'm tired of being cold after showering in the winter. My house is pretty old and doesn’t have forced air vents into the bathroom, so a few years ago I ran a new circuit and installed a wall mounted electric heater and it’s just been really great. Can put it on a timer for a shower to warm up the bathroom and auto turn off, and adjust the heat output. Does a great job bringing the bathroom up to temperature and doesn’t take up much space at all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 18:42
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:This is like the white foam rolls? That's pretty great to hear, as it'd be much nicer than going with a 3/4" dricore or similar. Yeah, that's it. I was building this office on a tight budget and short timeline, and that stuff was cheap and provided the required moisture barrier. R value is low but enough to keep the floor comfortable, at least.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 19:36
|
|
|
falz posted:So I've started this project for realz. Habitat for Humanity took my old kitchen on Dec 23 (except sink, keeping until last moment), I patched and painted yesterday, and today hung rails and am 'test driving' upper cabinets. 1) Get someone else to do it? 2) No 3) You can build just about anything from IKEA components. We modded several parts of our kitchen and it turned out great. Shelves, "Förbättra" cover panels, whatever, you can make it work. 4) Stainless steel backsplash from range to microwave. Add a few hooks for hanging poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 20:22
|
|
|
This is going to be a longshot, but I figured I'd ask. Is anyone able to ID this electrical box? https://imgur.com/a/TvCzm1O We just moved into our new build home and the rooms were pre-wired for fans. All of the boxes in the house are covered with paint/texture. I want to try and ID them to make sure they're actually fan-safe. I guess the only identifiable thing about it is the unusual shape. I'm concerned, also, about which screws to use and where they should go, since it appears they used drywall(?) screws to secure the white plastic mount for the cap. Macintosh HD fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Dec 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 20:48
|
|
|
Macintosh HD posted:This is going to be a longshot, but I figured I'd ask. It looks like something akin to a direct mount fan box along these lines (although not this exact one), and should be secured with proper wood screws: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-12-cu-in-Plastic-NM-Fan-Box-with-Plastic-Cover-CPB13NM-SM/205383211 edit: I will admit though, given the geometry of the box, I'm not sure *how* those wood screws that are painted over inside the box are actually gripping anything. Are there mounting ears for the box hidden under the drywall screws and white plastic clip? And maybe they didn't use the included wood screws? ROJO fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Dec 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 21:30
|
|
|
So I've got a bit of a mystery situation with our crawlspace. We've got an ancient 100 year old house that was built on a giant gently caress-off poured concrete slab (they actually reinforced it with tons of good-sized rebar, surprisingly enough.) Anyhow, there is one section that's over a crawl, and in the middle of that section there's dirt, and one section of that dirt is mud during the rainy season. There's pretty much no phosphorescence on the concrete around the mud and from what I can tell, none of the pipes above are dripping down. My guess is that we've got some grading issues that are allowing water to seep down/through and then up. This year I replaced all our gutters and slightly improved the grading and...I don't know. I think that mud corner is slightly smaller than it was last year. Are there other suggestions/ideas that I should look into? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 23:06
|
|
|
El Mero Mero posted:So I've got a bit of a mystery situation with our crawlspace. We've got an ancient 100 year old house that was built on a giant gently caress-off poured concrete slab (they actually reinforced it with tons of good-sized rebar, surprisingly enough.) Let's start with a problem statement: What is the problem you are trying to solve? You have stated a symptom or a standalone fact: The dirt is wet under your house. It's likely been that way since 1920 when your house was built and those beams look solid. To me that looks fine. Better ventilation might be in order, but it's unlikely or your beams would have rotted away decades ago.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 23:44
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Let's start with a problem statement: What is the problem you are trying to solve? You have stated a symptom or a standalone fact: The dirt is wet under your house. It's likely been that way since 1920 when your house was built and those beams look solid. To me that looks fine. Better ventilation might be in order, but it's unlikely or your beams would have rotted away decades ago. I mean, if it's not an issue that needs solving that's great news to me. I was under the impression that having wet spots like that was bad for the foundation and subfloor above. The beams above are all fine now, but I was just looking at this from a preventative point of view.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 00:03
|
|
|
Old basements and crawl spaces were largely designed to dry to the inside. Standing water is a problem but damp soil absent other issues like mold or erosion generally isn’t.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 00:05
|
|
|
El Mero Mero posted:I mean, if it's not an issue that needs solving that's great news to me. I was under the impression that having wet spots like that was bad for the foundation and subfloor above. The beams above are all fine now, but I was just looking at this from a preventative point of view. You're doing the right thing, you helped your drainage in your yard. Keep an eye on it every year or two, whenever you check for things like termites.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 00:10
|
|
|
El Mero Mero posted:I mean, if it's not an issue that needs solving that's great news to me. I was under the impression that having wet spots like that was bad for the foundation and subfloor above. The beams above are all fine now, but I was just looking at this from a preventative point of view. As long as you don't have evidence of standing water at some point (water line on the stem wall, etc) - I wouldn't worry about it after 100 years if your joists look good and there isn't mildew/mold.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 06:37
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Is this vinyl tile? I've read the terms can get mixed up a lot, and where I am I don't see anything advertised as laminate that isn't wood-like planks. There are vinyl products that look like tile though. Our floors are 30cm x 180cm tounge-in-groove boards. It looks like wood but is actually thin layers glued together and printed on top. Our bathrooms have the same stuff but it looks like stone. It's designed for pets and is scratch and spill and stain and slide resistant, but still dents from sharp falling objects. Installation was fast and we're very happy with how it looks. This type of flooring can be put over a solid subfloor.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 08:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 15:34 |
|
|
ROJO posted:It looks like something akin to a direct mount fan box along these lines (although not this exact one), and should be secured with proper wood screws: Thank you for your suggestion! I'm going to continue searching now that I have some search terms. I'm very hesitant to put a fan in because I, honestly, don't know which screws to use or where they'll go. (I'm new to all of this -- my dad never let me help as a kid)
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 16:57
|
|