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Filler primers are designed to fill fine scratches and light pitting, not a repetitive texture on the 100-micron scale. The only proper ways of getting an FDM part glossy smooth are solvent vapor techniques or extensive sanding and polishing.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:24
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The Eyes Have It posted:Eh, in my experience gap filling primer doesn't do much to hide layer lines at all. It's the kind of thing everyone suggests but I've never seen actually work It works, but you still need to sand and it takes 4-5 coats. Beats using body filler, though.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:43
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Ah, I hate sanding so that explains me never going down that route 
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Dec 27, 2020 23:14
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I'm sure having a dremel helps that a bit. A sanding bit.
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Dec 27, 2020 23:44
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AlexDeGruven posted:It's going to be in the garage with a dedicated vent hole and a very high flow exhaust blower. Can you laser cut polystyrene or will it just burst into flames and melt down?
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Dec 27, 2020 23:46
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you laser cut polystyrene or will it just burst into flames and melt down? Solid sheets generally cut fine, but it tends to be melty as well, giving poor edge quality. It may or may not be acceptable depending on application. Polystyrene foam (styrofoam) melts and catches fire. Not recommended.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:00
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you could put it in a chamber with no oxygen, which I admit sounds kinda ridiculous, maybe just leave dry ice in there with a single hole at the top
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Dec 28, 2020 00:04
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The Eyes Have It posted:I was using PLA but going higher temp could be worth a shot. Still, it's gotta hold up to a sheet of molten PET plus strong suction, which is surprisingly harsh. PETG makes decent masters for PETG sheets, and if you're able a light coating of XTC-3D helps a ton. That's also a good usecase for high-temp CF-nylons or GF-nylons or similar. Seriously, we can make some test prints with RealShit filament if necessary.
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Dec 28, 2020 01:00
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you laser cut polystyrene or will it just burst into flames and melt down? I'd probably make the wire cutter from Grant Thompson if I needed that function. This is going to be mostly for wood and acrylic with a little bit of de-anodizing aluminum and fancy ceramic tiles.
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Dec 28, 2020 02:06
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AlexDeGruven posted:I'd probably make the wire cutter from Grant Thompson if I needed that function. Just curious. Had visions of laser cutting plastic sheeting to make model buildings.
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Dec 28, 2020 04:55
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Doctor Zero posted:Just curious. Had visions of laser cutting plastic sheeting to make model buildings. Drag knife + cnc table is what I'd suggest.
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Dec 28, 2020 05:24
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Doctor Zero posted:Just curious. Had visions of laser cutting plastic sheeting to make model buildings. Sure. I know not all plastics are fit for it. If you're thinking like HIPS, then a highly qualified maybe. Gonna test out a bunch of poo poo, anyway. Probably start more than a couple of fires.
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Dec 28, 2020 05:24
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AlexDeGruven posted:Sure. I know not all plastics are fit for it. If you're thinking like HIPS, then a highly qualified maybe. Experimenting is most of the fun. Many work poorly, of course. Avoid PVC, including vinyl fabrics, as they are chlorinated and produce corrosive gasses, which are very bad for the optics.
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Dec 28, 2020 05:47
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This month I learned just how important even a quick and dirty enclosure is for getting not-PLA to stick and print well. I ended up with a roll of PETG by accident and had the worst time getting it to stick to the build plate/avoid becoming a stringy mess. I read a lot of people saying to use glue stick and assumed that was on the glass bed itself (just makes a sticky mess and didn't work at all for me). Blue painters tape followed by the purple glue was the trick. At this point it's difficult to get the prints off the bed. A polycarbonate/plywood enclosure with an open top helped the rest. I will likely close the top when I go to direct drive and gently caress around with ABS, but for now things are great. What a fun tool! I'm a machinist by trade and used to look down on 3d printers. Tolerances/speed/surface finish/etc can't live up to a machined part, clearly  . Then the pandemic hit and I found myself not able to spend any more time than necessary at work; side projects are dead. Turns out I can live with this printing thing after all and I'm am idiot for assuming otherwise. This hobby is fun and I've been able to make functional poo poo for friends already. PETG:  PLA:  Assembled (note to self to line tape better next time):  Mounted: 
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Dec 28, 2020 07:29
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Switched to the water-washable Elegoo for my miniature dollies and I gotta say I was expecting it to be somehow worse than the other stuff but it actually seems to cure better with fewer failures and finer detail, plus it's taken alcohol out of my post print workflow. I think I'm a believer.
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Dec 28, 2020 08:37
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 A while ago I saw anycubic had some sort of "plant-based" resin but since I still had almost 2 liters of the regular stuff left, never bothered to try it. Is that the same sort of thing? They didn't actually say if it's water-washable or still requires IPA so I assumed the latter. Dealing with the alcohol is annoying and creates a ton of waste so it'd be nice to get rid of it.
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Dec 28, 2020 10:58
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So now there is a PrusaSlicer guide for non-prusa printers. https://youtu.be/Wz2Soog4HkQ
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Dec 28, 2020 13:13
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Scarodactyl posted:Long way of asking, is there a particularly good coupler and tube I should get? I'd like to replace both couplers because the other end doesn't like to release the tube either, and the tube didn't appreciate being vicegripped. Get the Capricorn Bowden tube. The couplers you want are all over the place and dirt cheap, but it's easiest to just get a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Ca...09158214&sr=8-1 I installed something like this when I got my v2 and never looked back. I use it a decent amount and haven't experienced any issues with the couplers or the tube, either. The areas where Creality chose to cut corners out of the box are extremely weird since it costs like fifteen bucks at retail to make these printers drastically more reliable and consistent.
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Dec 28, 2020 13:32
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Aurium posted:Experimenting is most of the fun. Many work poorly, of course. Avoid PVC, including vinyl fabrics, as they are chlorinated and produce corrosive gasses, which are very bad for the optics. I worked in a PVC extrusion factory for a while. Cool job, but man, the smell. One of the materials we ran required the dies to be within tens of degrees of the smoke point and was such a pain in the rear end.
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Dec 28, 2020 14:38
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mobby_6kl posted:
I’ve used it. It’s a lot less smelly and needs a couple second longer exposure time. It does still need IPA to clean up. I’m not sure if the ‘made from plant sources’ thing is just marketing since I don’t know what regular resin is made of. It’s more expensive too. It’s decent resin though. I would say it’s worth it if the plant based thing is important to you or you need to keep the smell down. I have about 5 liters of the water based version waiting to be tried, but I keep getting the Epax hard gray because it’s so good.  I’m going to start making resin review videos so I can link them when I do if anyone is interested.
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Dec 28, 2020 15:32
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ve used it. It’s a lot less smelly and needs a couple second longer exposure time. It does still need IPA to clean up. I’m not sure if the ‘made from plant sources’ thing is just marketing since I don’t know what regular resin is made of. It’s more expensive too. It’s decent resin though. I would say it’s worth it if the plant based thing is important to you or you need to keep the smell down. That'd be cool, it'd be nice to see poo poo like exposure time and a "Benchy for resin" kind of comparison. Plant based is more of a buzzword than anything. Just because you can extract the same chemical from a plant doesn't make it any different than one from a petroleum product. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412020320213 
Yooper fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 15:56
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biracial bear for uncut posted:So now there is a PrusaSlicer guide for non-prusa printers. As someone who is preeeeetty new to 3D Printing, I have an Ender 3 v2 should I be switching to PrusaSlicer vs using Cura 4.8? I haven't had any major issues with Cura but is there really a bump in quality?
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Dec 28, 2020 17:21
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Photex posted:As someone who is preeeeetty new to 3D Printing, I have an Ender 3 v2 should I be switching to PrusaSlicer vs using Cura 4.8? I haven't had any major issues with Cura but is there really a bump in quality? If you haven’t gotten too deep, I’d probably switch. I like the prusaslicer interface a lot better than cura.
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Dec 28, 2020 17:26
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I’ll have to jump in with the opposite experience. The print quality from PrusaSlicer compared to Cura has been abysmal for what I’ve sliced with it. I set the print speeds/retraction etc to the same parameters that I use in Cura (direct drive Ender 3 pro) and the Z seam ended up being a horrendous scar on the print as well as strange dimensional artifacts/oddities on layers that had cutouts present.
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Dec 28, 2020 17:55
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goddamnedtwisto posted:My first instinct is a PSU problem causing it to drop the line voltage to the board, or maybe an intermittent short opening up as it warms up? I guess the first diagnostic step is to try and establish if it happens at a specific bed temperature (which might suggest some weird software issue), then do the obvious (and easy and cheap to fix) checks that all of the connections are nice and tight, then work from there. The wires seem fine. Did more testing for more confusing results: If I manually set the bed temp to 90, it'll reset at 77. Seems to be 77 every time. BUT if I set the bed temp to 115 it can reach above 90, even if the PSU fan turns on. Further, if I let it reach above 90, then manually set the bed temp to 90, it will reset as soon as I push the button. Firmware issue? Broken bed thermistor?
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Dec 28, 2020 18:38
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Photex posted:As someone who is preeeeetty new to 3D Printing, I have an Ender 3 v2 should I be switching to PrusaSlicer vs using Cura 4.8? I haven't had any major issues with Cura but is there really a bump in quality? I never used Cura (bought Simplify3D waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back in mid-2015 and didn't look outside of that until PrusaSlicer started getting attention), but I'd say using PrusaSlicer as a comparison is probably going to be useful at least for comparison of what the settings mean in the help documentation for it. Hamburlgar posted:I’ll have to jump in with the opposite experience. Have you tried the default settings for that printer with the current version of PrusaSlicer (under the Configuration Assistant)?
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Dec 28, 2020 19:27
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Yeah it was the default settings for the Ender 3 Pro in PrusaSlicer, aside from changing my retraction settings and enabling z-hop.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:07
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Hamburlgar posted:Yeah it was the default settings for the Ender 3 Pro in PrusaSlicer, aside from changing my retraction settings and enabling z-hop. The section of the video about opening Prusa's filament settings for use with other printers might be useful as another data/testing point.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:31
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I know things that touch food are in general a no go for 3d prints, but can that rule be bent for something like a cookie cutter? Had a Christmas zoom meet up with my friends and one of them mentioned making sugar cookies but didn't have a cutter, so they were all circles made with a cup. Was thinking I might find a couple off of thingiverse and send them her way. Only reason I wonder if it may be feasible is because the cookies aren't cooked yet when the cutter touches them. I would imagine an actual living bacteria is extremely unlikely to survive the oven and it seems like even many proteins could be denatured by the heat of the oven as well, but biology and chemistry are easily the sciences I have the least knowledge of.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:46
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Forseti posted:I know things that touch food are in general a no go for 3d prints, but can that rule be bent for something like a cookie cutter? Had a Christmas zoom meet up with my friends and one of them mentioned making sugar cookies but didn't have a cutter, so they were all circles made with a cup. Was thinking I might find a couple off of thingiverse and send them her way. I printed a bunch of xmas cookie cutters for the wife and I to make cookies with this year. Printed them in PETG which is supposedly a little more food safe but I considered them a one time use item and will just print more next year if needed.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:53
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Makes sense, and yeah I was thinking PETG I should have mentioned that. Seems like it should in theory be ok because they make plastic drink bottles from it. I'd also use a fresh nozzle and mark it as such.
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Dec 28, 2020 21:05
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FDM printing generally isn’t food safe, due to layer lines being a perfect place to harbor bacteria, but for a single use cookie cutter you’ll be fine.
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Dec 28, 2020 21:38
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I imagine it depends on what you’re putting in it and how often, too. Assuming you get all the ultra fine hairs and such out that might break free, a container for m&ms that gets used once a year is probably gonna be just fine.
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Dec 28, 2020 21:40
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There are several things that affect food-safety and general kitchen use of 3D printed parts: 1) The material itself may not be food-safe. PET and PLA are theoretically fine; both are used to make billions of plastic cups and bottles. I probably wouldn't store food in ABS, but it's fine for a cookie cutter. SLA resin is theoretically inert when fully cured but I wouldn't want to risk eating even a trace of the uncured material, so I'd say it's right out. 2) The material may not have been processed in a food-safe way. PET is theoretically fine but you don't know how it was manufactured, what impurities it might have, how it was stored in the warehouse in China, how well it was sealed during shipping. 3) The brass nozzle on your printer contains a small amount of lead (2-5%) to make it softer and easier to machine. An infinitesimal amount of this lead ends up in the printed part. I don't think there is any actual health risk from this, since you're talking about 2-5% of the amount of nozzle material that gets worn away in an average print, which has got to be in the sub-microgram level. But the FDA won't let you use free-machining brass in food-contact situations regardless. 4) The printed part is, of course, non-homogeneous and covered in fine textures. This means that it's really really good at capturing food particles and making a place for bacteria to grow. Even if you scrub the outer surface really well, any part with non-solid infill will allow water into the inside of the part where you'll never get it out. 5) The only way to reasonably sanitize a part with that sort of fine surface texture is through sterilization in a dishwasher (or better, an autoclave), but 3D printable plastics generally can't take that level of heat. So there isn't a clear yes or no. You need to take all of this stuff into consideration. I'd say a PET container for M&Ms is perfectly safe. A cookie cutter is probably fine, especially if you throw it away once it starts to get grubby. An egg beater is not a great idea and I definitely wouldn't try to make a baby bottle. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 22:50
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Thanks, makes sense to me. I'll be sure to pass along the info so the recipient can make the call too. Side note, the heated bed on my i3 clone made a perfect hot plate for repairing my phone. Plop it down at 90*C for a little bit and the adhesive released the screen as easily as I imagine it can get. In other words, still annoying to pry around the whole thing, but I didn't break it so  Good to have a functioning power switch again after probably close to two years as well as a battery that can handle taking a photo when charged to 100%!
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Dec 29, 2020 00:12
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I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro for Christmas. I did the setup and printed the test rook, it came out perfect. Any tips or tricks I should know about? I've got Chitubox installed, but it seems like people tend to like Prusaslicer better? This is my first foray with 3D printing.
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Dec 29, 2020 00:29
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Also new to the world of 3D printing, got an ender 3 for Christmas. I read some things about avoiding sunlight, fire hazards, and overall a ton of conflicting information. My main concern, my basement I worry is too bright in the day from a larger window and maybe too moist. Any reason that it would not be fine in a small closet? I have PETG to start with as it was the first recommendation my wife saw for it.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:29
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Are you confusing the sunlight thing with something you heard about resin printing? Maybe you’d have some issue if your filament printer was like, totally baking in the sun, but you don’t really have to pay attention to light in general. If you’re printing with UV-sensitive liquid resins, that’s a totally different thing.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:32
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Sunlight is not a problem for FDM (plastic filament) 3D printing. Large temperature swings can be, but cold drafts are what you need to look out for, not warm sunbeams. Sunlight is a problem for SLA (resin) printing and yes you should keep resin machines in a closet or something if possible. Humidity can be an issue after a spool of filament has sat open for months but initially don't worry about it. 3D printers are about as much of a fire hazard as a halogen lamp. Less of one than a space heater. poo poo can happen but most of the stories of fires are from people running old unsafe printers with no failsafes to prevent a short circuit from melting the whole machine into slag. If you want to be safe make sure the printer has a couple of feet of space between it and any flammable stuff, put it in a room with a smoke detector, and get a small fire extinguisher. PETG is not super difficult to print but it's more troublesome than PLA. I would get a roll of PLA to start out with; they're less than 20 dollars. Pick a fun color for some variety.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:36
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The article I was reading was talking about FDM and also was trying to put forth the fear of god of fire hazards too, so I was a bit less confidant in it's assertions. I'm more thinking putting it in the closet for space, draft, and general less chance of bumping it reasons. So it's recommended I start with PLA before using this PETG? I haven't even been able to spend the time putting it together yet. One more question, is it important at all to get an enclosure for it? It's going to be in a closet, with a closed door, so not much of a chance of a draft other than from the small area the door would be open for a power cord.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:44
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