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MrYenko posted:When building wooden model ships, is species selection influenced by the chosen scale?
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Dec 26, 2020 16:51
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Pierzak posted:Yes, if you build a smaller ark, you won't be able to take all of them. That is when you go off the deep end and start making 1/350 scale animals.
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Dec 26, 2020 18:17
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MrYenko posted:
Lol at the animals answer above... Answer - Wood grain and ability to hold an edge are absolutely the reasons that a very few wood species are appropriate for scale wooden ship construction. There are very few woods that have the super fine and straight grain, and are also hard enough to hold good edge details. Many kits of US origin use Basswood, which is a very lightly colored wood and basically invisible grain, but the wood is way too soft and fuzzy and extremely difficult to get a sharp edge and good detail. I used this wood for the first planking of my AVS as well as for some internal reinforcement pieces where the wood would be hidden on the completed model. There is no exposed basswood on the model, however the kit provided basswood for deck planking. I used Holly. The European equivalent is Limewood. The best woods based on both my opinion, and somewhat general opinion in the hobby are: Boxwood - Super fine grain, pale yellow wood. Very dense, machinable and holds a super sharp edge. Very difficult to actually find as it's extremely scarce even though in the UK it's very commonly found as shrublines. Takes like 100+ years to grown large enough to get decent sized pieces, and since it grows like a shrub, long boards basically don't exist. Castello - a substitute for Boxwood and often found being sold as Boxwood or 'Castello Boxwood'. It's not true boxwood but the characteristics are almost the same but the color is slightly different. Swiss Pearwood - slightly softer than Boxwood, has a slight pink color but otherwise very similar. Used for furniture in Europe but quite expensive to get in the states. Holly or American Holly - super white wood, fairly hard and holds a great edge. Grain can be basically invisible, but has many small knots and defects that must be worked around causing a fair amount of wasted wood from some pieces. Very good for deck planking as in small scale looks very much like hollystoned & sun faded teak. Alaskan Yellow Cedar - much softer than Castello/Boxwood but the same fine grain and actually holds an edge quite well for how soft it is. Takes some practice to work with due to it's softness but can produce a beautiful finished model. Can tend to gum up saws/files. Dagame - This used to be highly used for masting of models. Another excellent fine-grained hardwood, also known as lemonwood for some reason. Light brown to pale yellow colored. Straight interlocked and very fine grain and machines well. Unfortunately this wood mostly came from Cuba so most stockpiles were used long ago and current day boat builders never get to see this wood. Some guys use American Cherry also, it's a nice wood but can have a fairly obvious grain. I used some of this for hatch cover planking for the nice color. For my new project, I've found a wood source that can supply me with all the wood I need in bulk, I just have to drive to Utah to get it! I'll be substituting specific woods throughout the build - wherever oak was used I will be using Swiss Pear, and wherever Pine was used I'll be using Castello. For the masts and spars, I will be using Degame, as the guy who is supplying my wood also has a large stock of it. He used to run a business supplying wooden parts to model builders, but retired around the end of 2014, but never clearanced out his wood stock, so I'm gonna go get a bunch of those three primary types of wood. In addition I will probably do the main deck planking in Holly because I really like the look of it on my AVS. If you want to look and see how some of these woods look for yourself, try checking out https://www.gilmerwood.com/index.php or https://www.rarewoodsusa.com/shop/by-species/. The Locator fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 26, 2020 |
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Dec 26, 2020 20:29
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Here is what these woods actually look like: From top to bottom: Basswood Swiss Pearwood Boxwood Castello (Boxwood) American Holly Alaskan Yellow Cedar
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Dec 26, 2020 20:49
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Spent Christmas thus far grinding away on the Bounty: 
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Dec 27, 2020 12:24
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So after 18 months of almost daily use, I fully cleaned my Sotar 20/20, as in I fully disassembled it. It's crazy the amount of paint that made its way through every nook and cranny. I cleaned it with acetone (carefully avoiding the plastic joints) and it looks brand new. Except that I think I reassembled it not quite correctly. After about an hour of use (post clean-up) the trigger somehow moved to a bad position. The little bent metal thing (20-114 below) that pushes the trigger somehow got stuck in the body of the airbrush - somehow got stuck on the air valve. Like, completely stuck. I tried every single tool I have, but I can't apply too much force for fear of breaking or bending poo poo. I'll probably get it out (I'll remove the whole air valve I guess) but it'll also probably won't be quite the same. There's an airbrushing shop not too far from my new place. They stock a lot of Badger and Iwata. I'm not 100% sold on the quality of the Sotar so I'd like to try Iwata. Specifically the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I like that you can tune the resistance on the trigger and also the larger tank. And I believe that the Eclipse are made in Japan, but I could be wrong and it's the even higher quality ones who are. Is that new airbrush supposed to be better than the Sotar, or are they of similar quality? Sotar parts: 
Furism fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Dec 27, 2020 |
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Dec 27, 2020 14:01
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... I got an airbrush kit and spraybooths for christmas. I'm gonna be a happy man this year. *giggles*
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Dec 27, 2020 14:03
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Furism posted:
I chose the HP-CS because it was recommended previously in the thread and also because it's very popular with excellent reviews. As far as comparison to the Sotar, I can't say specifically. If you look at the part diagram, the part that got stuck on you is easier to work with on the HP-CS. I still sometimes have trouble getting it to go back in just right, but since it's attached to a long, narrow piece of metal it's easy to pull back out. The only issue I've had with the CS (aside from user error) is needing a bit of patience to get the pivoting pin on the trigger to go down into the air valve.
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Dec 27, 2020 14:33
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Vorenus posted:I chose the HP-CS because it was recommended previously in the thread and also because it's very popular with excellent reviews. As far as comparison to the Sotar, I can't say specifically. If you look at the part diagram, the part that got stuck on you is easier to work with on the HP-CS. I still sometimes have trouble getting it to go back in just right, but since it's attached to a long, narrow piece of metal it's easy to pull back out. The only issue I've had with the CS (aside from user error) is needing a bit of patience to get the pivoting pin on the trigger to go down into the air valve. Yes I noticed in one of the review I watched the bit about the piece being attached to the part that push it against the trigger. It's definitely a design that feels better than the Sotar's (and by this I mean less chance of me loving it up).
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Dec 27, 2020 16:39
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The Locator posted:Lol at the animals answer above... Thanks for taking the time on this. Wooden model ship builders are the  of scale modeling, as far as I’m concerned.
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Dec 27, 2020 18:29
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Fearless posted:Spent Christmas thus far grinding away on the Bounty: Looking good. I still say that round bit is the stern though. 
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Dec 27, 2020 20:17
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Furism posted:So after 18 months of almost daily use, I fully cleaned my Sotar 20/20, as in I fully disassembled it. It's crazy the amount of paint that made its way through every nook and cranny. I cleaned it with acetone (carefully avoiding the plastic joints) and it looks brand new. Except that I think I reassembled it not quite correctly. After about an hour of use (post clean-up) the trigger somehow moved to a bad position. The little bent metal thing (20-114 below) that pushes the trigger somehow got stuck in the body of the airbrush - somehow got stuck on the air valve. Like, completely stuck. I tried every single tool I have, but I can't apply too much force for fear of breaking or bending poo poo. I'll probably get it out (I'll remove the whole air valve I guess) but it'll also probably won't be quite the same. 20-114 is just a lever. It pushes back on the plunger in 20-115 to ease the needle back out of the nozzle. If you bend it back into the approximate shape it came in, it'll work just fine. The same part on my 105 will get jammed to the side when I'm reassembling it from time to time - pull it out and reseat it, then work the action back and forth gently to make sure it's not going to catch again. I've never used an Iwata, but you might want to test out a shop model before you buy it if trigger tension is your specific goal for getting a new brush. My Sotar and Infinity both use the same adjustment mechanism it looks like you find on the HP-CS, which is more of a stop than a tension adjust - you can screw in that chuck at the back of the brush (20-123 on the parts list) to shorten the length it can travel, and thus reduce the amount of paint that comes out when you haul the trigger back. Cursory research suggests that if you actually want to adjust the tension in your brush, you'd need a new set of springs. Truth told, if I had to do it over again, I wouldn't have gotten the Sotar, and just saved my pennies for an Infinity. I don't think you gain enough by going to a midrange brush for the price tag, compared to the nicer models.
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Dec 27, 2020 20:53
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The Locator posted:Looking good. I still say that round bit is the stern though. Not going to lie, when I first looked at the parts of the model, I did too.
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Dec 27, 2020 21:55
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So while I am waiting for the holidays to be over so I can make arrangements to go up and get the wood for the Young America project I thought I would do something to actually show the scale of this stupidity. Some of you who were around for my AVS build will recall that it was a 1/48 scale model, the same model as the Young America. You might also remember that I had begun work on a British cutter - HMS Cheerful, which I never really got very far along on, but is also a 1/48 scale model. Here was one of the last progress photo's on the Cheerful, along with a profile plan to show what she would eventually be built into if I actually finished her:   So I decided to first, compare the size of the Cheerful to my completed AVS by cutting out a top-down deck plan and just taking a picture.  As you can see, the Cheerful is both fatter and slightly longer than the AVS. The hull is also deeper as she is a heavier ship. I then took that same Cheerful plan and taped it onto the Young America top-view framing plan. Lol... 
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Dec 28, 2020 00:11
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What glue do you even use for that? Gorilla glue? PVA? Straight up wood glue?
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Dec 28, 2020 00:17
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1/144 Platz P-47, by way of Eduard repacking and decals.    Overall I enjoyed this kit. It's definitely a lot better engineered than the AFV Club P-40 I did a little while back. Detail's lighter than Sweet kits, which remain my favorites in 1/144. I bought it pretty much for the ridiculous wolf head.  The big pile of everything I painted this year. 2020 might be biting kind of hard, but I definitely forgot I did a bunch of these.  Scale-ish favorites.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:21
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Phi230 posted:What glue do you even use for that? Gorilla glue? PVA? Straight up wood glue? It's wood. Wood glue. It will also have a bunch of functional copper bolts, but I'm sure wood glue would work fine, I mean it holds full sized furniture together. Edit: Epoxy will be used in some areas, like holding the functional bolts. The Locator fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 00:21
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      This is my first 1/35 project and my first diorama. I'm pretty much done with it. I have 9 more figures to paint, and then its a matter of posing them. I posted some test pics of some dry-fitted posing. My only question is how to fix pigments so as to keep them looking like dry dirt. I've tried pigment fixer but that thinned the pigment/muddied it. I tried PVA and water and that worked sometimes. Like if I brushed on the PVA/Water, it would either not stick or it would muddy the pigment. If I used a dropper, it wouldn't spread, it would keep its surface tension. Should I spray it on somehow? I also tried hairspray and that worked only ok Anyway tell me how I did?
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Dec 28, 2020 00:24
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grassy gnoll posted:1/144 Platz P-47, by way of Eduard repacking and decals. That's a lot of productivity for a year, nice work! The P-47 looks pretty good, I wouldn't have guess 1/144 if you hadn't posted that.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:27
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Phi230 posted:
I like it. I've always really admired dioramas but never tried to make one. I can't help with your questions about how to do stuff, but I can make an observation - given the general destruction and war-time thing going on here, the ground is just way too clean. Should be lots of small debris, maybe some trash, building parts, etc. Other than that and the obviously finishing of stuff, it looks pretty good to me. Edit: Building walls too clean also.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:30
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The Locator posted:I like it. I've always really admired dioramas but never tried to make one. The pics are unfortunately from all over the development. The 1st pic is the latest, when I added pigments
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Dec 28, 2020 00:38
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Phi230 posted:Anyway tell me how I did? Tank-wise: there are a lot of casting seams and ejection marks. For instance: on the interior of the hatches, the claxon, antenna cup, etc. These should be filled if necessary and sanded down. Same for the round parts glued together from two halves (the external fuel tanks and gun barrel). Nitpicks: the rear square fuel tanks and side cylindrical fuel tanks would not have been used at the same time. The road wheel placement when steel rimmed wheels were used was typically rubber-steel-steel-steel-rubber, rather than rubber-rubber-steel-steel-steel. I would also recommend buying brass rods to use as antennas, the plastic ones that come with kits are usually way too thick. As other people said, throw more junk into the diorama. Smashed brick is pretty easy to get in bulk. Check ballast at model train shops, you can get a pretty big bag for five bucks. Hairspray is a finnicky fellow, you have to pay attention to how thick you lay it down as well as how much paint you put on top. I find it works very well with thin layers of both hairspray and paint, too much hairspray and all the paint will come off in huge sheets, too much paint and you'll never be able to penetrate the surface without scraping the primer off.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:56
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I can fix the diorama and house cleanliness but again I'm having issues with fixing the pigment the way I want (dirty rather than muddy) And how should I weather the house? My first instinct is streaking/dot filter with oil paint
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Dec 28, 2020 01:04
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Phi230 posted:What glue do you even use for that? Gorilla glue? PVA? Straight up wood glue? Tar and nails I think you'll find e: In plastic bote news, I have a strong start on my Washington Naval Treaty collection, and by start I mean purchased.  Pola is the old, cheap, and incorrect one, but I got PE and a wooden deck and found some tips to follow for making it close to the newer Fiume kit. I managed to find Myoko second hand on ebay, box opened but sprue bags still sealed, which was something of a score. Nelson remains OOP, and Kaga and Nagato remain eye wateringly expensive. Could get Saratoga and San Francisco too, but will get some of these done first. I'm starting with a Hobbyboss Type VIIC Uboat though for practice, because the last time I built a bote there was no such thing as PE and I need to learn how to use it. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 01:44
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Phi230 posted:I can fix the diorama and house cleanliness but again I'm having issues with fixing the pigment the way I want (dirty rather than muddy) What I've done is to tap some dry pigment onto the model, then load a brush with fixer. Touch the brush near some of the pigment and let capillary action do it's thing. That gets the fixer in place without you having to touch the pigment. Then, you can tap more dry pigment onto the damp thinner and it should stay in place, looking mostly dry. That's the method I used for this StuG III a couple years ago and it turned out pretty well. Let me know if that helps.  Tonight I put the finishing touches on another 1/32 scale vignette. This time a P-47D pilot and his bird somewhere in England, 1944. No motor or electrics this time, but some custom figure sculpting and groundwork for fun. Full write up over at the LSP forums here. Imgur album here. 
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Dec 28, 2020 03:08
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Gewehr 43 posted:What I've done is to tap some dry pigment onto the model, then load a brush with fixer. Touch the brush near some of the pigment and let capillary action do it's thing. That gets the fixer in place without you having to touch the pigment. Then, you can tap more dry pigment onto the damp thinner and it should stay in place, looking mostly dry. I tried that method, but it melts the pigment into a muddy/thin texture. I'm going for heaps of dry dirt, or dry dirt scattered around
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Dec 28, 2020 03:24
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Phi230 posted:I tried that method, but it melts the pigment into a muddy/thin texture. I'm going for heaps of dry dirt, or dry dirt scattered around What pigment and fixer are you using? Using the capillary method, I've never had any issues with the pigment turning to mud. That's with Mig pigments and fixer. When I want to pile on dirt, I just keep piling it on while the fixer is damp.
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Dec 28, 2020 04:42
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Gewehr 43 posted:What pigment and fixer are you using? Using the capillary method, I've never had any issues with the pigment turning to mud. That's with Mig pigments and fixer. When I want to pile on dirt, I just keep piling it on while the fixer is damp. Abteilung and vallejo pigments with mineral spirits, I've tried PVA glue and water too
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Dec 28, 2020 05:00
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Like hardware store variety mineral spirits? Just for grins, maybe give a purpose-made hobby fixer a shot.
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Dec 28, 2020 12:58
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Gewehr 43 posted:What I've done is to tap some dry pigment onto the model, then load a brush with fixer. Touch the brush near some of the pigment and let capillary action do it's thing. That gets the fixer in place without you having to touch the pigment. Then, you can tap more dry pigment onto the damp thinner and it should stay in place, looking mostly dry. That is an amazing job of recreating a historical photo. One of the best I've ever seen!
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Dec 28, 2020 14:50
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SkunkDuster posted:That is an amazing job of recreating a historical photo. One of the best I've ever seen! Thank you very much! I think I've found my stride with the creative spark. I've been struggling a bit with mojo lately and I think I've finally hit on why. I find myself a bit bored with just doing a vehicle. I'm now finding myself wanting to put it into some sort of historical context. This, of course, extends the length of the overall project which, in turn, taxes my gnat-like attention span. So, yeah, there's that. That said, I think I've landed on my next historical photo recreation this morning, but I find myself wondering if I've got delusions of grandeur. To pull it off, it will require major kit surgery, scratch building a ton of different stuff, and sculpting a figure from wire armature (save for the head, hands, and feet.) Needless to say, before I do an irreparable damage to the model kit, I'm going to see if I can pull this figure off first.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:10
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Phi230 posted:Abteilung and vallejo pigments with mineral spirits, I've tried PVA glue and water too Mineral spirits are very hot, I use a synthetic oil thinner (Taltine) that's much milder and it seems to do a good job at fixing pigments without melting them.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:17
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So... I bought some 1/48 scale models from aliexpress. They're Corsairs. They will assemble without glue... but I decided I should "try". with some paint, and some effort, they come out really quite nice. Like, the out of the box experience is better than the Monogram P40 I built a few weeks ago. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000004515269.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1e7d4c4dHiaUbo $5 for the model, shipped. You get a moving canopy, folding wings, and a spinning prop. It doesn't take a lot to make the thing a really decent looking thing at like.. 5'. The "worst parts" are the panel lines are HUGE. And the rivets, would be 16mm in diameter if they were that size on the plane. And it comes with dry transfer decals... which don't have very rich whites on them. I'll post photos later.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:25
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The Locator posted:That's a lot of productivity for a year, nice work! The P-47 looks pretty good, I wouldn't have guess 1/144 if you hadn't posted that. Thank you! The productivity part's easy when you're basically doing adult Legos - I'm always amazed at the level of hand-crafting that goes into your boats. Gewehr 43 posted:Tonight I put the finishing touches on another 1/32 scale vignette. This time a P-47D pilot and his bird somewhere in England, 1944. No motor or electrics this time, but some custom figure sculpting and groundwork for fun. Full write up over at the LSP forums here. Imgur album here. Green Thunderbolt bros! Yours might be just a little more detailed than mine, though. I've made the terrible mistake of picking up some 1/32 fighters during the holiday sales; do you have a line on any guides or process videos for starting out in Way Too Huge scale aircraft?
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Dec 28, 2020 18:38
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grassy gnoll posted:Thank you! The productivity part's easy when you're basically doing adult Legos - I'm always amazed at the level of hand-crafting that goes into your boats. 1/32 is God's own scale. :v That said, your Tinybolt looks great! I don't have the eyesight or dexterity to work in 1/144 scale for airplanes. 1/32nd scale kits are not really any different from smaller scales. Just usually more parts and more paint required. More opportunities for scratch building detail too. What kits did you get? Feel free to ask me any questions you may have; for airplanes, I pretty much only work in 1/32.
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Dec 28, 2020 19:25
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1:32 is like the perfect balance in size and detail imho, and it's a shame Tamiya went with 1:35 as the standard for armour.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:43
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I just use a cheap gloss varnish to fix pigments on my minis, never had a problem (except when I blow too directly/too close on them and the airbrush sends a few of them flying, but that's rarely a problem). Is fixing pigments more of a problem on scale models because there are more flat surfaces generally than on a 28mm miniature? In other news, I'm now the proud owner of an Iwata HP-C (they didn't have the CS in stock). It might be new buyer's enthusiasm but it feels much higher quality than the Sotar I had before. The shop's owner has been selling airbrushes for 30 years and he said to never put lubricant in them, never sonic bath any part, and never back the airflow in to mix the paint. Since half of the interwebs say the exact same thing, but the other half (including top grade painters) say to do just that, I'm still confused. Furism fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 22:49
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Furism posted:I just use a cheap gloss varnish to fix pigments on my minis, never had a problem (except when I blow too directly/too close on them and the airbrush sends a few of them flying, but that's rarely a problem). Is fixing pigments more of a problem on scale models because there are more flat surfaces generally than on a 28mm miniature? You can sonic bath the nozzle and caps. Don't lube anything. Don't soak the whole airbrush. Really, only the parts from the cup forward will need cleaned with any regularity. Be gentle with the needle. Backflowing for mixing is a terrible idea that a lot of people do but shouldn't. Backflowing for cleaning is fine. If you don't have one, you'll need an iwata nozzle wrench to remove the nozzle, but that's like $10 on Amazon.
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Dec 28, 2020 23:23
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Furism posted:I just use a cheap gloss varnish to fix pigments on my minis, never had a problem (except when I blow too directly/too close on them and the airbrush sends a few of them flying, but that's rarely a problem). Is fixing pigments more of a problem on scale models because there are more flat surfaces generally than on a 28mm miniature? This should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw The needle insertion technique at 5min in should help prevent you from inserting it too far or forcefully. You don't really need the special iwata nozzle wrench unless you're worried about dropping or damaging your nozzle. The included one is fine for removing the nozzle, just never use it to tighten the nozzle. This is usually what causes them to break. Lubrication depends on how often you're cleaning it.
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Dec 28, 2020 23:34
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Interesting technique, I usually just push it in gently until it can't go forward anymore, but that might explain how I wore out a nozzle (although I had it for almost 4 years at that point).
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Dec 28, 2020 23:37
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