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Drowning Rabbit posted:Ok great to know thanks! One more question. Should I be using the clips to hold the flexible bed in place? That Gcode I linked was printing over the clips, so I figure I should maybe take them off? Is your bed magnetic? If it's not then you probably need them. You can try repositioning them out of the way. If you have a base Ender 3 (non pro) you need them. I ended up swapping mine out for these clips and they are so much better and don't interfere with the nozzle. I'm running a glass bed though, so make sure they'll work with the thinner flexible bed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2MRW76?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share E: This is not related to your issue, but did your Ender 3 come with a silent board? SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 23:09
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SpartanIvy posted:Is your bed magnetic? If it's not then you probably need them. You can try repositioning them out of the way. I have a base Ender 3, not pro, and it seems not V2 from what I understand. So yeah, I need the clips I guess. I don't know what the silent board is, but I'm going to assume it did not. E: Seems these are for the V2, and I'm fairly certain that it's not the V2 due to videos I saw of the V2 which had a tension knob to adjust the tension on the printer head driver, and mine is definitely not hand adjustable without tools.
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Dec 30, 2020 23:22
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Drowning Rabbit posted:Ok great to know thanks! One more question. Should I be using the clips to hold the flexible bed in place? That Gcode I linked was printing over the clips, so I figure I should maybe take them off? What clips are you using? They shouldn’t be so big that the models hit it unless you’re printing something that’s 100% of the bed. I use small binder clips.
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Dec 31, 2020 00:53
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Doctor Zero posted:What clips are you using? They shouldn’t be so big that the models hit it unless you’re printing something that’s 100% of the bed. I use small binder clips. They are small binder clips that came with it. The level your bed Gcode from the link I posted earlier will print to almost the edge to try and have it all level.
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Dec 31, 2020 01:37
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Drowning Rabbit posted:They are small binder clips that came with it. The level your bed Gcode from the link I posted earlier will print to almost the edge to try and have it all level. I sent you a PM. I have an Ender 3 standard too and I ran into the same issues with the binder clips. On most of the calibration tests, they have the nozzle go corner to corner across the board, and my nozzle always hit the binder clips on the front, no matter where I placed them. Since you're getting started, here are the Ender 3 prints I recommend making to help improve your printer setup. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211 - Filament holder that uses ball bearings to hold the filament spool. This helps if you find your extruder is pulling your filament taught trying to unspool it from the roll. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3544593 - This side spool mount holder hangs off the left side of the Ender 3 and makes it so that the filament rolls straight off the spool and into the extruder, which keeps the filament from rubbing down the top of the extruder like it will eventually do with the spool mounted on top of the machine. I use the 3 hole version. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 - The Petsfang Bullseye parts cooler is a far superior option to the cooling duct the Ender 3 comes with. The best part is that the Bullseye uses the standard fan that came with your printer, so no extra parts are required. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3457767 - Tool and parts holder that sticks on the top of the Ender 3. I've tried a few different tool holders and this is my favorite one because it also gives you a little spot to store your nozzles and an exacto knife https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981976 - Board cooling fan side duct. You'll see a lot of people recommend the little fan shroud out the front, and that model sucks. This guy provides way better ventilation and it also helps with noise a tiny bit. It still uses the factory fan as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021 - A simple ribbon clip that will hold the LCD ribbon cable to the undercarriage. Good for getting it out of the way, especially if you install a small tool tray. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2957317 - Small and simple tray that fits between the LCD and the Y-Axis bar. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858209 - LCD back cover. Not really needed but it looks nice and keeps you from putting your grubby fingers on the LCD board. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2957507 - A bed handle. Makes pulling the printer bed in and out a whole lot easier and keeps your oily fingers off of it. Ideally you don't use it too much, but it's super helpful when you do need it. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 02:10
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SpartanIvy posted:I sent you a PM. I'm looking forward to printing ALL of this. Hell yes printing something useful vs. a random pig tchotchke. One more question that I had come up this evening. My brother in law also got an Ender 3 for Christmas, but it's his second 3D printer, the first being a $100 special from Monoprice. He linked me this "Auto Bed Level Kit" on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-BLTouch-Leveling-Accessories-CR-10S4/dp/B081VJCBLN/ The reviews seem rather mixed on it, but I am curious if there is a kit that is legitimately helpful at automating the level process? It's one of those things, if you can auto home ( Of course ), and auto level, that seems like MOST of the user error issues sorted.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:48
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Drowning Rabbit posted:I'm looking forward to printing ALL of this. Hell yes printing something useful vs. a random pig tchotchke. I'm actually in the process of installing that exact sensor on my Ender 3. From the reading I've done, it seems like most of the issues come from people not understanding how it works and how it needs to be adjusted in the first place after installation. There are a bunch of YouTube's from CHEP and Teaching Tech (and others) that cover it. I think a good understanding of leveling your bed by hand is helpful, so I would say hold off on that upgrade until you're proficient in doing it manually, and know what "a good level" looks like. Once you level the bed manually, you really shouldn't need to level it that much after that. I check mine maybe every 10 prints or so.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:06
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SpartanIvy posted:I'm actually in the process of installing that exact sensor on my Ender 3. From the reading I've done, it seems like most of the issues come from people not understanding how it works and how it needs to be adjusted in the first place after installation. There are a bunch of YouTube's from CHEP and Teaching Tech (and others) that cover it. Great to know. As is, I've already worked on levelling the bed, and I need to get a few test prints out to see how that even works, is it REALLY even levelled? So I wasn't jumping on that or anything, as I figure the cost to effort ratio is right now really low since it's just level it once and then go from there. But I was intrigued.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:08
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Drowning Rabbit posted:Great to know. As is, I've already worked on levelling the bed, and I need to get a few test prints out to see how that even works, is it REALLY even levelled? So I wasn't jumping on that or anything, as I figure the cost to effort ratio is right now really low since it's just level it once and then go from there. 3D printing makes you realize just how relative the term "level" can be
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Dec 31, 2020 03:29
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Drowning Rabbit posted:The reviews seem rather mixed on it, but I am curious if there is a kit that is legitimately helpful at automating the level process? It's one of those things, if you can auto home ( Of course ), and auto level, that seems like MOST of the user error issues sorted. Autoleveling is fantastic, and bltouches works well. They also rely on a long chain of software that needs to be precisely setup. Errors are difficult to diagnose.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:39
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Around 27 second mark the sword breaks because the nozzle bumps it out of place, the nozzle also bumps part of the cape out of place a few seconds (hours) later. What might cause this sort of thing? It's an Ender 5 Pro, with glass bed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=craTziwr1Is Thanks for the link.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:31
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SpartanIvy posted:3D printing makes you realize just how relative the term "level" can be All the sensors do is compensate for a plate that isn't flat. Its expensive, but printers built with MIC6 plates don't have as many leveling problems, even on printers that don't have bed probing.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:44
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I totally messed up my Ender 3's assembly and I'm going to have to tear it down and reassmble it from the ground up with a square to try and get everything to be 90 degree angles again. I am never going to touch any of the screws on this thing once I get it fixed. Good god what a headache this has been.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:53
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biracial bear for uncut posted:All the sensors do is compensate for a plate that isn't flat. They also compensate for bed out of level. That said, if you can compensate for out of flat, you can do out of level. Levelness is just consistent offsets along some line after all. Zaffy posted:Around 27 second mark the sword breaks because the nozzle bumps it out of place, the nozzle also bumps part of the cape out of place a few seconds (hours) later. What might cause this sort of thing? It's an Ender 5 Pro, with glass bed. Z movement looks constant, so I don't think it was a skipped step. Nothing else seems to be disturbed when it first falls, so I don't think so. I don't see cupping from over extrusion. It could have been buildup from oozing, though the print looks generally clean so I'd say you have retraction well set. In short, donno. I think the cape is being bumped by the extrusion hairball debris stuck to the extruder.
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Dec 31, 2020 07:31
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Fusion 360 says my free hobbyist year has ended, I can't see a way to renew as a hobbyist, only on their £400+/yr plans. Is that it, it's over? What was the consensus on free replacements - FreeCAD? e: nevermind, you have to redownload to reactivate the free year for personal use. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 11:34
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This morning I replaced my roll of whatever came with the Ender 3 ( I assume PLA since it printed OK with default settings ) with my roll of PETG. I didn't quite expect it to be this frustrating. I am having a real issue with it adhering to the bed, which seems fairly common from my google searches. However I am seeing some conflicting reports, specifically for the Ender 3. A couple of points:
I am guessing that putting painters tape on will hopefully fix my adhesion issue, as before when it wasn't hot enough, I was pumping out string, but now at least it's TRYING to adhere, but it's not quite there yet. Drowning Rabbit fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 15:15
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I found aquanet hair spray worked great in getting petg to adhere to my ender 5's bed.
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Dec 31, 2020 15:32
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Drowning Rabbit posted:This morning I replaced my roll of whatever came with the Ender 3 ( I assume PLA since it printed OK with default settings ) with my roll of PETG. I didn't quite expect it to be this frustrating. I think (because I haven’t tried printing PETG myself) you need to put the printer in an enclosure to make it work consistently. At least that’s what I recall from reading. Someone will confirm / deny this I am sure. Where are you located? I can give you some suggestions for filament ordering that I’ve used well on my Ender 5 (which is basically just a big Ender 3)
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Dec 31, 2020 15:45
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Nah ABS will require an enclosure but you should be able to print PETG without one once the settings are dialed in. One thing that worked for me was having a larger z offset than I used with PLA. It seems that PETG doesn't like to be squished so a gap that is 75-100 percent of your layer height works better. You can set this in your slicer or just use two sheets of paper to level instead of one. If you go the slicer route, just keep in mind that your printer's firmware already assumes that your creating a .1mm gap when leveling the bed, so anything you put into the slicer would be in addition to that. I'd start with .05mm and go from there. Unrelated, but that post earlier about the MP Pro has got me curious about delta printers, although I'm really turned off by the MP Pro being unable to use Marlin. What other brands of delta printers are worth looking at? A quick Google search led me to Atom which look really nice but apparently they are extremely hard to find or something.
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Dec 31, 2020 16:11
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PETG does not need an enclosure, and don't cover your bed with painter's tape. If it's not sticking, wash the hell out of your bed with dish soap and hot water and don't touch the surface once it's clean. I've found the best surface for PETG is glass with a thin layer of diluted PVA glue. I've also found that's the best surface for literally everything, you don't have to worry much about keeping it clean and you can just wash it off and refresh the glue if it gets nasty or stops working. Literally everything sticks to it, even TPU, and releases by itself once the bed cools. You can even just refresh the surface with a cloth and some warm water between applications. YMMV.
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Dec 31, 2020 16:21
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Drowning Rabbit posted:This morning I replaced my roll of whatever came with the Ender 3 ( I assume PLA since it printed OK with default settings ) with my roll of PETG. I didn't quite expect it to be this frustrating. I print PETG at 240° CELSIUS and run my bed at about 70° CELSIUS. Last time I printed it I found that I only got good adhesion printing directly onto a very clean mirror tile (though I didn’t try blue tape, admittedly). Many find that PETG directly onto glass will actually pull glass away with it when you remove the print so be very cautious with that approach. Hasn’t happened to me yet and if it does, I’ll just put a new mirror tile on. The Boson (?) tube is called a Bowden tube. The issue with going too hot on hot ends that aren’t all metal is the PTFE liner inside starts to degrade, which can cause issues with printing due to jams but also isn’t great for people or animals (especially birds) as the PTFE will start to give off toxic fumes. If you get hot enough it pyrolyses and that’s even worse. You can get fever-like symptoms from inhaling PTFE fumes, and again, it will kill birds FAST.
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Dec 31, 2020 16:24
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I print PETG at 240° CELSIUS and run my bed at about 70° CELSIUS. I just came back to the thread to edit and fix the F to C, as I was assuming. I'm way wrong. :v So I just saw that I should probably replace the tube connecting the extruder to the printer head to be able to go to higher temps, so I just ordered that as it was a cheap fix. I don't have a glass bed, but I do have painters tape I believe, so I guess I'll try that for now.
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Dec 31, 2020 16:31
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So I've tried painters tape, this is still the result.  Trying with 240* 235* and 230* 80* bed temp. Anyone have any advice? Printing PETG for a reminder. I'm in my currently very warm kitchen, no drafts, just a hot wood stove that is making me sweat here in new hampshire.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:22
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Drowning Rabbit posted:So I just saw that I should probably replace the tube connecting the extruder to the printer head to be able to go to higher temps, so I just ordered that as it was a cheap fix. Capricorn is good stuff, and it won't degrade at 240, but it's still teflon and it will still kill any birds in your house and/or make you sick if it gets hot enough. I use it at that temperature frequently and haven't experienced any horrible symptoms, but it's still not safe to take it above 250. Their website has a good (if slightly cavalier) chart that explains the dangers: https://www.captubes.com/safety.html edit: I see zero squish on that, you should at least start by getting your nozzle lower. e2: also set your first layer height to .2 if you're using a .4mm nozzle, turn off cooling and go slow. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 17:25
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SpartanIvy posted:I totally messed up my Ender 3's assembly and I'm going to have to tear it down and reassmble it from the ground up with a square to try and get everything to be 90 degree angles again. I am never going to touch any of the screws on this thing once I get it fixed. Good god what a headache this has been. Get some Loctite 242 - that'll keep the screws from vibrating loose so you *really* don't have to touch them again.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:37
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Drowning Rabbit posted:So I've tried painters tape, this is still the result. Is this a joke post? It doesn’t matter what’s on your bed if you’re just dripping plastic from a mile away. Your nozzle is way too far away.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:42
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Drowning Rabbit posted:So I've tried painters tape, this is still the result. Assuming you've properly leveled the bed - check your Z offset. There are STLs specifically to do this that some people use, but the Mk1 Eyeball can at least let you know if you're in the right area. Basically get your eye level with the bed* and watch the filament as it extrudes. If there's a noticeable gap, crank the Z offset down a bit (there's a plugin for Cura for this, I think other slicers have it built in), rinse and repeat. This can be a little difficult to see depending on the filament and the bed if they're similar in colour, but the giveaway is if there's a noticeable "tail" where the filament curves away from the nozzle before it touches the bed. For difficult filaments some people advise actually putting the Z offset .1mm or so lower than optimum to really squish the filament into the bed, but that's always seemed like a bit of a last resort to me and asking for a damaged nozzle/bed. * Make sure you're not so close that you take a sudden X adjustment to the face, obviously
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Dec 31, 2020 17:45
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eddiewalker posted:Is this a joke post? It doesn’t matter what’s on your bed if you’re just dripping plastic from a mile away. Your nozzle is way too far away. I assumed he had backed it off from the plate because surely nobody would think that distance would work... right?
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Dec 31, 2020 17:55
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Zaffy posted:I assumed he had backed it off from the plate because surely nobody would think that distance would work... right? Not a joke post at all. I literally just got this thing. Additionally, this is after it has tried to print at least a little, so it raised due to layers maybe? But it's definitely not as close as needed I'm betting. It printed with the included ( guessing PLA ) filament totally fine, so I had thought it was doing ok. I will have to check the Z offset, but when using a bed level test, the receipt paper was almost getting stuck. Though the Gcode I downloaded to test said it should stop at each point and require me to hit the button to get it to continue, but that doesn't happen. It just keeps going through touching all for corners and then the center and repeats at least once more. E: so I just learned how to manually move the XYZ axis to properly level, instead of using a suggested Gcode that didn't work right. It's now MUCH closer. I'm hoping I have some of you a good laugh, as this is my first foray into the hobby. Drowning Rabbit fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 18:04
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From what I can see, there are round logs of plastic laying on your bed. They should be squished flat to have any hope of sticking, and adjacent lines should touch without gaps. It takes a little experience to see the difference. Just take baby steps like .05mm down at a time until it starts to look right --unless that last picture with the butterknife-sized gap was taken mid print. If that's the case, I'd run through a setup tutorial from the start. I don't think you need the tape. I'd throw out that variable until you can get a good first layer height.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:18
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Well unfortunately I didn't see your post until after, but I'm less of a moron now. I didn't realize printing started from 0 Z-axis, so previously I was relying on the program that didn't work as advertised for me to attempt very poorly to level it. Manually moving the axis worked much better and now it's all working. Thanks everyone.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:22
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It's still too high.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:23
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eddiewalker posted:It's still too high. Really? This was with a receipt getting almost bound under the nozzle, and it's printing MUCH better. I'll let this finish and then tweak from there I guess. It's been a learning experience to say the least.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:24
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Adjusting with paper or a feeler is good for getting a consistent and even height, not for setting the actual distance from the bed where plastic spits out. Once you have all 4 corners the same with your paper, you should leave the physical adjustments alone and adjust a z-offset in software. I'd start with -0.05mm steps to your offset. If your printer has "babysteps" on the front panel controls, you can slice a file with a lot of big skirt loops and dial it in live each lap around the bed. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 18:29
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Drowning Rabbit posted:[...] Never download gcode, always slice yourself*. gcode can control everything your printer does, which means it can also permanently damage your printer. Or it might not work with your specific printer. Always slice models yourself. Also, i started 3d printing from zero a couple months ago, this youtube series helped me immensely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nb-Bzf4nQdE 3d Printing Basics by Thomas Sanladerer. If you're in a rush, Episode 8 and 9 are must watch imo. *yes, there are exceptiosn if you 100% trust the uploader.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:37
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Painter's tape on Glass is a good idea with PETG because it gives an interface layer to prevent the PETG from literally ripping chunks of glass out of the bed when it cools. Just make sure you wipe the tape with an alcohol wipe after applying it to get your finger oils off of it. A perfectly clean Painter's Tape layer and bed temps between 70-80C (and good first layer height) will give you perfect prints every time. That said, I still like the removable spring steel textured PEI sheet Prusa uses. It's just so easy, wish there were similar plates available for other printers. Seconding the "never ever download G-code from the Internet and run it on any machine you own". There are just too many instances of people having their machines destroyed because they did this and the instructions told the machine to do something it shouldn't (like drive the hotend into the material after printing half an object, etc.).
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Dec 31, 2020 18:45
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PETG sticks great to the PEI (plastic) beds that come with many printers if you run it at 85-90C. You don't need an enclosure. Don't run someone else's g code unless you absolutely know what you're doing. There's almost never a good reason to do it. As someone noted above, PET does like to have a larger offset than PLA because it's very sticky. You don't want to drag the nozzle through the plastic because it will stick to the nozzle and peel it off. You need to adjust your z offset until your first layer looks like the middle here 
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Dec 31, 2020 18:56
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Mikey Purp posted:Unrelated, but that post earlier about the MP Pro has got me curious about delta printers, although I'm really turned off by the MP Pro being unable to use Marlin. What other brands of delta printers are worth looking at? A quick Google search led me to Atom which look really nice but apparently they are extremely hard to find or something. Seemecnc's offerings are very nice. Thier current stuff doesn't run marlin either, but the duet ecosystem is very nice and under active development. I have one of their older printers that I'm happy with.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:29
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SpartanIvy posted:I think a good understanding of leveling your bed by hand is helpful, so I would say hold off on that upgrade until you're proficient in doing it manually, and know what "a good level" looks like. Once you level the bed manually, you really shouldn't need to level it that much after that. I check mine maybe every 10 prints or so. Are you using the original springs that came with your Ender? If you are, upgrading is a really good idea. My V2 has been running essentially non-stop for close to 5 months now and I've never had to re-level the bed after doing it the first time. I'm guessing I'll need to soon, but better springs will help you keep your level for much, much, much longer. I bought these, but any equivalent is fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was planning on buying a BLTouch, but leveling has been so trouble-free that I haven't bothered yet.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:37
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Paradoxish posted:Are you using the original springs that came with your Ender? If you are, upgrading is a really good idea. My V2 has been running essentially non-stop for close to 5 months now and I've never had to re-level the bed after doing it the first time. I'm guessing I'll need to soon, but better springs will help you keep your level for much, much, much longer. I have those exact springs on mine and they do help it hold level. It only gets out of level because I am particularly impatient waiting for prints too cool and pop off my bed naturally so I really crank on them sometimes to pop them off and start my next print 
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Dec 31, 2020 22:26
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