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osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Has anyone used/made milk paint and have any good resources/advice? I need to build a tool cabinet and that seems like a good place to experiment with it.


Back in my contracting days I used it a ton. The Real Milk Paint company sells good powdered colors. They are also a good source for pure Tung oil.

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Kanine
Aug 5, 2014

by Nyc_Tattoo
what are some of yalls favorite woodworking youtube channels? i really love frank howarths vids

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Meow Meow Meow posted:


I had bad luck with no bandsaws available last week, but I had good luck ordering a 12" jointer/planer combo machine yesterday, so looking forward for that to arrive.

Deets, what did you go with?

Sadly I'm limited to an Inca or rikon 10" if I want a combo due to other shop constraints.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

epalm posted:

I slapped one of these separators on a 5-gal Home Depot bucket. It works to a degree, maybe half the dust accumulates in the bucket, and the other half ends up in (the filter of) my small shopvac. I suspect I need to cut the bottom out of another bucket and make this bucket contraption taller, so most of the dust falls down into the bucket instead of making it to the shopvac? Not sure.

You should probably look into getting the version of that which Home Depot carries, it does a hell of a lot better than half in the bucket half in the vac, that's real bad.

I have a small shop and just installed a dust collector myself, I wasn't on too tight a budget so I went with a Powermatic PM1300TX-CK over other ~2 HP competitors since it comes with a controller that includes a remote and a decent canister filter. I'm just leaving it in the corner of the shop on a platform that brings it about 30'' off the ground so I can use the space underneath to store items which were already taking up that floor space so I got a DC without losing any precious square footage. Since it's a small shop I use a long hose to connect equipment as I go so the DC stays out of the way in its corner.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Elem7 posted:

You should probably look into getting the version of that which Home Depot carries, it does a hell of a lot better than half in the bucket half in the vac, that's real bad.

This one? https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dustopper-high-efficiency-dust-separator-12-inch-dia-with-2-1-2-inch-x-36-inch-hose/1001536667

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Yes

Toast
Dec 7, 2002

GoonsWithSpoons.com :chef:Generalissimo:chef:
^ that's the one I use, it's reasonable for what it is.

Toast
Dec 7, 2002

GoonsWithSpoons.com :chef:Generalissimo:chef:

NomNomNom posted:

Bigger is better, even for small shops. The harbor freight "2" hp is the gold standard for cheap dust collectors. Have a plan for either exhausting it outside of plan to upgrade the filter, the bags most come with are worthless/don't filter finely enough.


Yeah, Harbor Freight isn't really a thing here, will occasional see random bits of their stuff. Princess Auto here is sometimes their equivalent sometimes not.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Kanine posted:

what are some of yalls favorite woodworking youtube channels? i really love frank howarths vids

Same question

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Kanine posted:

what are some of yalls favorite woodworking youtube channels? i really love frank howarths vids

i will always take the opportunity to post Grandpa Amu vids
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fIvi-XnUlo

Check out the rest of my posts for more recommendations, I posted a lot of woodworking youtubes a few pages earlier!

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler
The guy at woodgears.ca has a few different versions of dust removal boxes for airborne particles and direct extraction from tools. The airborne ones are seldom anything more complicated than furnace filters and old box fans.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
So I build this: http://www.modernbuilds.com/diy-modern-outdoor-bench to put next to my outdoor skating rink for the kids to put on skates.

My question is, how do I go about sanding (or buffing) this so it's smooth? The water seal has a rough feel to it. I sanded the bench down before applying the danish oil/water seal, and it was mirror smooth and felt great. Now, it's rough.

I have a grinder, should I go get a buffing wheel?

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
The door is built and on. I have approx 2mm of clearance at the narrowest point which matches my plans exactly.



Super pleased with that however the door itself was a nightmare. Not the doors fault, but one side of the bookshelves are 4 degrees off from the other side which means I've needed to shim the cabinet on the door out to match the other side.

I had lined everything up but it looks like its shifted when i've fixed bits down into the ground and it is very disappointing. I've gotten over it now but it took way longer than it should of. The cabinet on the bottom is just there for structure as it wont be used to keep the weight down on the door, hence why its a tad uggo.

But the hardest part is done, and now I just have to wait for a delivery of Ash faced ply to do the visible bookshelves on the top half, then I can start on the standard stuff and get this done.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

So I build this: http://www.modernbuilds.com/diy-modern-outdoor-bench to put next to my outdoor skating rink for the kids to put on skates.

My question is, how do I go about sanding (or buffing) this so it's smooth? The water seal has a rough feel to it. I sanded the bench down before applying the danish oil/water seal, and it was mirror smooth and felt great. Now, it's rough.

I have a grinder, should I go get a buffing wheel?
Scuff sanding between coats with 320 will help in future. You just need to rub it out with a grey or maroon scotchbrite pad or 000 or 0000 steel wool. Since it is outside, if you can find brass wool that would be better. Steel wool leaves little bits of itself everywhere that will rust.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Kanine posted:

what are some of yalls favorite woodworking youtube channels? i really love frank howarths vids

CarForumPoster posted:

Same question

What kind of stuff are you interested in? Renaissance Woodworker would be my recommendation. He posts a mix of hand tool basics and more specialized hand tool techniques.

Centurium
Aug 17, 2009

ColdPie posted:

What kind of stuff are you interested in? Renaissance Woodworker would be my recommendation. He posts a mix of hand tool basics and more specialized hand tool techniques.

Second that. I also like Rex Krueger and Paul Sellers.


Hey goons, what do you use for a marking knife? I've been using a stanley utility knife with a sheep's foot blade (because Paul Sellers is a cool guy) but I noticed that you can buy fancy gun culture adjacent knives with a single bevel. They seem like they might be more comfy, but I might just be putting on airs.

As a side note, now Google keeps asking "wait, are you sure you're not a CHUD"? I think these are related phenomena.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I know we had youtube chat less than a month ago but my pics are builders that don't talk.

Ishitani, SquareRule, Kobeomusk, Pedulla Studios, Jenn's Mistake are all on my subscriptions list.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

CarForumPoster posted:

Same question

For actual practical things that a time and money constrained weekend warrior like me can use, my favorites are Stumpy Nubs https://www.youtube.com/user/StumpyNubsWorkshop and Steve Ramsey Woodworking for Mere Mortals https://www.youtube.com/user/stevinmarin/featured

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
Matt Estlea, bourbon moth, and Jonathan Katz-Moses

First for hand tools
Second for production
Third for hybrid woodworking

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I got a big grab bag of pretty decent hand tools yesterday for like $80, including a 1980s-era Stanley 4/5/block set, a bunch of decent chisels, a sweet old mortise chisel, a backsaw, and a dovetail saw.
They'll need some restoration work on the cutting edges but I'm pretty stoked.

Here's the question though - the sole of the #5 is almost as big as the diagonal of a piece of sandpaper. Do I just restore that sole with super short strokes?

good jovi
Dec 11, 2000

'm pro-dickgirl, and I VOTE!

Centurium posted:

Hey goons, what do you use for a marking knife? I've been using a stanley utility knife with a sheep's foot blade (because Paul Sellers is a cool guy) but I noticed that you can buy fancy gun culture adjacent knives with a single bevel. They seem like they might be more comfy, but I might just be putting on airs.

I use this Japanese craft knife. It's cheap, single bevel, looks neat, and comes in left and right handed versions (I linked the left handed one).

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Centurium posted:

Second that. I also like Rex Krueger and Paul Sellers.


Hey goons, what do you use for a marking knife? I've been using a stanley utility knife with a sheep's foot blade (because Paul Sellers is a cool guy) but I noticed that you can buy fancy gun culture adjacent knives with a single bevel. They seem like they might be more comfy, but I might just be putting on airs.

As a side note, now Google keeps asking "wait, are you sure you're not a CHUD"? I think these are related phenomena.
I have some cute little japanese style scratch awls I like. They were cheap, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. I think I got them from Lee Valley but now they make their own fancier ones. I generally prefer an awl to a knife really-knives seem to wander in the grain or catch on the square, but I've never used a fancy marking knife.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Centurium posted:

Second that. I also like Rex Krueger and Paul Sellers.


Hey goons, what do you use for a marking knife? I've been using a stanley utility knife with a sheep's foot blade (because Paul Sellers is a cool guy) but I noticed that you can buy fancy gun culture adjacent knives with a single bevel. They seem like they might be more comfy, but I might just be putting on airs.

As a side note, now Google keeps asking "wait, are you sure you're not a CHUD"? I think these are related phenomena.

My first few projects were built with an old Stanley box cutter :v: Does a surprisingly decent job.

Lee Valley sells a variety of marking knives: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-tools

I have their cheap workshop striking knife (less than $20). It's fine, but I would recommend going a step up. The blade is thin enough that it's flexible and I don't feel very confident using it. It's not a bad one to have around, especially given the price, but I think it's worth spending more on a better knife. The Japanese knife they sell looks intriguing to me.

A while back I picked up a Vesper joinery knife because they were in stock while I was also grabbing a sliding bevel, so that's what I use personally.

Centurium
Aug 17, 2009

CommonShore posted:

I got a big grab bag of pretty decent hand tools yesterday for like $80, including a 1980s-era Stanley 4/5/block set, a bunch of decent chisels, a sweet old mortise chisel, a backsaw, and a dovetail saw.
They'll need some restoration work on the cutting edges but I'm pretty stoked.

Here's the question though - the sole of the #5 is almost as big as the diagonal of a piece of sandpaper. Do I just restore that sole with super short strokes?

Does the sole need significant flattening or just polishing?

pygmy tyrant
Nov 25, 2005

*not a small business owner

I'm making some curtain ties with magnets embedded in MDF, but I'm not sure how to attach the things to my wall without visible screws. My best idea right now it to make a dovetail mounting piece that screws to the wall and slide the magnetic piece over it, but I'm concerned that it won't be very robust due to the size (thinking 1" L x 1/4" W x 1/4" H for the mount piece) and the magnets have about a 10 lb pull strength. Should I use a more durable material for all this? Is there some mounting hardware I should just get instead?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I've done the sliding dovetail thing to attach to walls before, and it works well. Albeit I used hardwood instead of MDF, which changes things quite a bit.

The only other way I know of to do completely hidden attachments to walls is to use floating shelf hardware. Basically it's just a metal rod that goes into the stud and then your piece has a hole in it that the rod slots into. Use threaded rod and a just slightly undersized hole to get a more secure mounting. But it sounds like your piece is too small for this kind of approach.

Have you considered countersinking your screws and then putting some kind of cap on the screw holes?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


My parents bought me this work table for my birthday- could I use this as a stand for my miter saw as well, or no?

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Yeah I don't see why not. Supports 300 pounds, your miter saw probably weighs less

Soylent Yellow
Nov 5, 2010

yospos
I've pretty much decided that I'm going to add a plunge saw and rails to my box of toys. I'll mainly be using it to rip down ply boards to make nestboxes and animal hutches, as well as the occasional bit of kitchen fitting. I'm thinking of either the Makita SP6000J, or it's Festool cousin.

https://www.makitauk.com/product/sp6000j
https://www.festool.co.uk/products/sawing/circular-saws/576002---ts-55-rebq-plus-gb-240v#Overview

We have the Festool at work, so I'm already familiar with it. The Makita's just that bit cheaper, and and I've had pretty good experiences with their powertools before. Is it a comparable tool, or is it worth paying the extra? Is there another saw I'm missing?

Also, has anybody had any experience using the cordless versions of these? Is there any major reason for sticking with the corded versions?

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
The only difference between the festool and the makita is the festools dust collecting. Functionally i never noticed a difference.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
I have the 36v one. Zero complaints!

Obsoletely Fabulous
May 6, 2008

Who are you, and why should I care?

Bouillon Rube posted:

My parents bought me this work table for my birthday- could I use this as a stand for my miter saw as well, or no?

Should be fine. I use a Black & Decker Workmate to hold mine. Only gets sketchy if you don't realize you are slightly pushing the saw and it starts scooting towards the edge. Just use clamps or pegs to hold the saw in place or check the saw's position between cuts. I work in a shed though (10x12 and also stores my yard tools and snow blower) so I put it outside and then move tools to it as I'm using them. The only tools that don't get set on it are the bench top bandsaw and the table saw.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Youtube recommendations started here:

Rutibex posted:

Post your woodworking youtuber tier list:

Just click that and read the following dozen or two posts.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Centurium posted:

Does the sole need significant flattening or just polishing?

Turned out that it just needed polishing.

But then the depth adjustment yoke... became broken. So I need to figure out where to order one at a reasonable price.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Finally got off my rear end and finished the carcass for a little cart/cabinet for sharpening stuff. Grinders on pull out shelves and a drawer or two for everything else.




It's meant to tuck under the bench juuuust out of reach of getting stabbed by a holdfast. I found tiiiny little double-locking casters to get as much space as possible.

also, regular reminder that black locust owns and fluoresces under blacklight

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
The Makita track saw is significantly cheaper, has a weirdly short-ish cord on the corded one, has no riving knife (less critical on a track saw) and has slightly worse dust collection than the Festool.

If you are already in the Makita cordless system then the cordless version is a no brainer.

For me, I'd only upgrade to Festool if I was buying the TS 75, I currently have the corded Makita and am very happy with it.

The reasons to stay away from DeWalt, Kreg, Bosch, and Maefell is that those brands all use their own proprietary tracks and the aftermarket accessory market basically doesn't exist for those saws. Festool/Makita/Triton/Grizzly/Shopfox all use the same profile and have tons of good aftermarket support.

GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jan 1, 2021

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Hypnolobster posted:

Finally got off my rear end and finished the carcass for a little cart/cabinet for sharpening stuff. Grinders on pull out shelves and a drawer or two for everything else.




It's meant to tuck under the bench juuuust out of reach of getting stabbed by a holdfast. I found tiiiny little double-locking casters to get as much space as possible.

also, regular reminder that black locust owns and fluoresces under blacklight


:yosnice:

(also, rad vice jaw)

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Took my new Wen track saw in its maiden voyage yesterday. Went well all things considered, first time ever using a track saw. I'm pretty sure my complaints are due to user error and not the saw's cheapness.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy
WEN can not fail, its can only be failed

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Soylent Yellow
Nov 5, 2010

yospos

GEMorris posted:

The Makita track saw is significantly cheaper, has a weirdly short-ish cord on the corded one, has no riving knife (less critical on a track saw) and has slightly worse dust collection than the Festool.

If you are already in the Makita cordless system then the cordless version is a no brainer.

For me, I'd only upgrade to Festool if I was buying the TS 75, I currently have the corded Makita and am very happy with it.

The reasons to stay away from DeWalt, Kreg, Bosch, and Maefell is that those brands all use their own proprietary tracks and the aftermarket accessory market basically doesn't exist for those saws. Festool/Makita/Triton/Grizzly/Shopfox all use the same profile and have tons of good aftermarket support.

Thanks.

I'll probably end up buying the Makita corded saw, as it's going to spend most of the time tied to a dust extractor anyway. My cordless tools are all Ryobi, mainly because I managed to salvage a ludicrous amount of batteries from the electrical returns skip while working at a diy store.

I thought the Makita track profile was supposed to be just slightly different to the festool profile -close enough, but not perfect?

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