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OSU_Matthew posted:6’4 Sasquatch with a Toto C200 checking in—after about 9 months I’m still very much liking it! That’s great, I’m glad you like it. But are you just comparing that to... no toilet? I’m specifically saying the spray on the BB-2000 is better placed than the Toto for me and a buddy of mine agrees. I own both so I don’t really care about one over the other.
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Jan 1, 2021 00:32
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Tezer posted:If I remember right they're considered fixed equipment and max draw needs to be 50% or less of the bathroom circuit (7.5A for a 15A, 10A for a 20A). A non-code compliant install may not trip a breaker, but that doesn't mean it would pass an inspection. This is probably a better question for the electrical thread if anyone is really curious, as I'm going off rusty memories here. I just tell clients that it's going to be another circuit, because they always pick a Kohler or a nicer Toto. Buddy if my bathroom is getting inspected I have already moved my fancy pants bidet. 
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Jan 1, 2021 00:55
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Tezer posted:A non-code compliant install may not trip a breaker, but that doesn't mean it would pass an inspection. Given the track record of building inspectors here, I'm sure it would pass inspection!
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Jan 1, 2021 01:29
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Hed posted:That’s great, I’m glad you like it. But are you just comparing that to... no toilet? I’m specifically saying the spray on the BB-2000 is better placed than the Toto for me and a buddy of mine agrees. I own both so I don’t really care about one over the other. The C200 has a fully adjustable spray nozzle with front side, backside, and 5 different positions that effectively emulate being roter-rootered by a carwash. Compared to the plebian ritual of schmearing poo all over dead tree carcasses like cream cheese on a bagel? Yes, it is excellent. Are you comparing the C200 specifically? I’ve not tried other brands, this was a TPocalypse impulse buy for me that coming up on a year later still sparks joy. I wouldn’t be surprised if the BB-2000 is better, this is just a sample size of one. Tezer posted:If I remember right they're considered fixed equipment and max draw needs to be 50% or less of the bathroom circuit (7.5A for a 15A, 10A for a 20A). A non-code compliant install may not trip a breaker, but that doesn't mean it would pass an inspection. This is probably a better question for the electrical thread if anyone is really curious, as I'm going off rusty memories here. I just tell clients that it's going to be another circuit, because they always pick a Kohler or a nicer Toto. For the sake of curiosity I threw my fluke clamp meter on the bidet and dropped a dookie for science. Cold startup heating the seat came to .75 amps in the beginning, briefly peaking 1. When the internal tank’s hot water ran out after ~30 seconds (max spray mode), the load jumped to 2.4 amps (with oscillating and pulsating mode also enabled). After the spray timed out, the load dipped to 2.35 amps. Turning on the heated dryer after the sprayer finished up briefly spiked the current to 3.08 amps, but then it returned back down to 2.35. While running the odor filter and heating the internal tank’s water back to temperature, the amperage briefly spiked at 2.54, but remained fairly consistent around 2.35-2.45. A few minutes later once the internal tank finished heating back up, the current dropped back down, oscillating between .1 and .3 amps (with the seat being pre-warmed). Back of the napkin math says 3 amps peak at 120v is 360 watts, average 288 watts at 2.4 amps. This would be equivalent to having 5-6 incandescent lightbulbs running in one of those old tacky vanity mirrors, or 3-4 box fans running. If I were doing a new build, absolutely, I’d throw a dedicated bidet circuit on there and go nuts. For this particular seat add-on in an old build on a limited bathroom circuit with no other fixed appliances? Not the thing that keeps me up at night. That prize goes to thinking about them weird drains in the basement after I found out my house used to belong to the town’s former mortician. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 02:27
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Plate on the Toto c200 is 406w - nowhere near needing a dedicated circuit and could be run on a modern code bathroom circuit alongside a hair dryer or other heating element. You're looking at 17-23% of a 15 or 20a circuit. It's a lower input max than I expected. It is not UL listed according to the spec sheet. Edit: plate on the bb-2000 is 1400w and would be sketchy on a 15a share circuit if you had another heating element but is fine on a 20a. (58% of 20a) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 02:46
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OSU_Matthew posted:For the sake of curiosity I threw my fluke clamp meter on the bidet and dropped a dookie for science. Nice, that's really interesting. Always curious how the spec sheet draw actually translates (the C200 is 406W, just pulled up the spec).
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Jan 1, 2021 02:46
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OSU_Matthew posted:Home ownership thread: is your panel rated for oscillating and pulsating mode?
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Jan 1, 2021 05:17
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Residency Evil posted:Oh poo poo, I can have someone who at least seems like they know what they're talking about come out to my house and tell me what's wrong for the cost of a 6-pack? What's your schedule like? I'm vaccinated. 100% booked until the world returns to some sense of normalcy. I'm not in the volunteer FD anymore (freaking work got in the way) so it's gonna be a while before I'm vaccinated. Besides - you don't have any real and true disaster going on from what I remember.
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Jan 1, 2021 17:06
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OSU_Matthew posted:For the sake of curiosity I threw my fluke clamp meter on the bidet and dropped a dookie for science. Cold startup heating the seat came to .75 amps in the beginning, briefly peaking 1. Thank you for your service. 
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Jan 1, 2021 17:21
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The Rev posted:Click the article and notice it's from the Philly inquirer - "Hey that's a paper somewhat close to me!" Motronic posted:I think that makes 4 of us within 30 minutes or so. Yeesh. Yeah I knew exactly who you were talking about when you first mentioned the 6 figure stucco repairs. My cousin bought one of those houses, and has been a nightmare for them.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:13
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yikes, what a read; and Buckingham is only about 15 miles away.
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The builder who prompted most of this EIFS/stucco discussion is loving furious for me not going through with the offer after seeing the inspection. He's been calling the inspector, myself and my agent multiple times and promising everything will be fixed on Saturday so I have to buy this house now lol. Sorry my guy, not how this works and I trust that you know what you're doing even less now.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:16
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opengl128 posted:Yeah I knew exactly who you were talking about when you first mentioned the 6 figure stucco repairs. My cousin bought one of those houses, and has been a nightmare for them. One of my favorites, and I can't find the newspaper article now, was the guy who bought his brand new "luxury home" and had near $2,000 a month electric bills for his first December, January and February. Finally gets someone there to figure out what's going on. Whoops, we forgot to insulate the attic. At all.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:00
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Motronic posted:100% booked until the world returns to some sense of normalcy. I'm not in the volunteer FD anymore (freaking work got in the way) so it's gonna be a while before I'm vaccinated. The main thing that keeps me up at night is what I think keeps all of this neighborhood up at night: the water table is super high, and water is constantly coming through the outside in to the basement. We have a sump pump with a pit that's too small (apparently because of how much of a PITA it is to dig through the rock below), and the sump pump goes off every few minutes. If the rain gets really bad, it's going off pretty much constantly. I guess it could be worse. Apparently our neighbors down the road (where it's even lower) have 6 pumps. And multiple neighbors have had their basements flood, including the ones that tempted fate and finished their basement.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:22
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I mean....if that's a neighborhood thing, and you're saying it is, there's nothing new anyone is going to figure out. Other than: your basement is not to be used for storage and all mechanicals must be kept off the ground. The best advice I can give you is to get an an auto-start home generator because houses in places like that are the ones that always flood when the power goes out during a storm. Battery backed sump pumps are pretty meh.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:25
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Motronic posted:One of my favorites, and I can't find the newspaper article now, was the guy who bought his brand new "luxury home" and had near $2,000 a month electric bills for his first December, January and February. Finally gets someone there to figure out what's going on. That's amazing. Not surprising though. I've been in my cousin's house ($1m+). The whole thing just had a hard to pin down cheap feeling to it. They've had a ton of other issues with it too.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:39
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I think there's also a big push these days to move folks away from thinking about houses as long term purchases, and instead towards more disposable thinking. Moving every 5-10 years is the attitude that agents push on buyers and sellers alike. I think this also infects the developers and builders too, who know that buyers that move in won't care about the medium-term or long-term quality because because they buyers aren't counting on being there when it breaks. "Move before it breaks, or if it's already broke you don't have to fix it the right way because you'll be moving in a few years anyway."
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Jan 1, 2021 20:51
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My parents old “luxury new build” neighborhood had a 2.5 million dollar home fall to the stucco mess. The family found black mold throughout the home 6 months after they moved in. It was in arbitration court for half a decade last I heard. Eventually the family just walked away and bought a new house down the road. The black mold house sold at an auction for 400k to a flipper who gutted it. And it isn’t just new homes. This crap happens in apartment buildings. I was the first family to sign a lease in a new build apartment building. It looked nice during the tour but once we moved in we realized that everything was pure crap. I found dozens of empty beer cans crushed in between the kitchen cabinetry and the walls. Elevators broken for months at a time. Garage flooding during storms due to no drainage. Broken HVAC system that was essentially reversed - blowing bad air into everyone’s apartments through the exhaust fans. And so on. We ended up paying g to break our lease early since a new severe problem arose every few weeks and the building management was a mess (the original management company that built the building sold it within a month of opening it). I think they had always planned to flip it since it was in a very desirable location so they built it as cheap as possible.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:32
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Motronic posted:I mean....if that's a neighborhood thing, and you're saying it is, there's nothing new anyone is going to figure out. Other than: your basement is not to be used for storage and all mechanicals must be kept off the ground. One of the nice parts about our house is that we’re on the same circuit as the fire department, so the power never goes out unless there’s a problem between the pole and our house. But yeah, we’ve got a battery backup pump just in case as well. El Mero Mero posted:I think there's also a big push these days to move folks away from thinking about houses as long term purchases, and instead towards more disposable thinking. Moving every 5-10 years is the attitude that agents push on buyers and sellers alike. This kind of thinking makes me angry for some reason.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:33
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Residency Evil posted:This kind of thinking makes me angry for some reason. check out this very different way of thinking: "Raze, rebuild, repeat: why Japan knocks down its houses after 30 years" https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/nov/16/japan-reusable-housing-revolution "Unlike in other countries, Japanese homes gradually depreciate over time, becoming completely valueless within 20 or 30 years. When someone moves out of a home or dies, the house, unlike the land it sits on, has no resale value and is typically demolished."
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Jan 1, 2021 21:40
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This is definitely related to the uniquely American obsession with remodeling. "The kitchen is dated" is a nonsensical sentence in most of the rest of the world. Either the oven works or it don't
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Jan 1, 2021 21:54
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pmchem posted:check out this very different way of thinking: There’s another quirk to Japanese housing though, is their zoning policy. Basically cities in the US are becoming absurdly expensive and unaffordable because our zoning policies are not favorable to higher density redevelopment. If an individual isn’t happy that the lot next door has been rezoned for apartment building, they can stall the project with legal challenges etc. It’s the reason why the cost of rail and public transport development is significantly higher in the US compared to other similarly industrialized countries. In Japan, the cost of housing has remained largely flat due to the lack of restrictions on building higher density housing. At the end of the day, homes depreciate while land appreciates. We seem to ignore that when valuing properties over here, or the fact that homes require expensive routine maintenance and do not build equity like realtors like to pretend. Add to that peoples’ lack of understanding of how long it takes to build equity in a house due to principal vs interest balance at the beginning of the loan, and it’s a shitshow of idiocy. I blame the Realtor(tm) cartel for so many of our housing issues. I also blame the institutionalization of property management as so many houses were scooped up for next to nothing during the last economic crisis and turned into investment vehicles to created a pervasive system of disinvestment while funneling value out of communities.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:29
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:This is definitely related to the uniquely American obsession with remodeling. "The kitchen is dated" is a nonsensical sentence in most of the rest of the world. Either the oven works or it don't I agree if it's a 1990s kitchen and the white oak cabinets look unappealing, but disagree if it's an old kitchen that isn't set up properly. Like a 1950s galley kitchen. Currently my 1978 kitchen works fine but should be remodeled since the cabinets are falling apart. I literally had a drawer give out on me this year.
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Jan 1, 2021 23:29
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Motronic posted:I mean....if that's a neighborhood thing, and you're saying it is, there's nothing new anyone is going to figure out. Other than: your basement is not to be used for storage and all mechanicals must be kept off the ground. That should be a given with PECO. I'm in the top of a little hilly area, with a walk out basement. My friend was a bit surprised I didn't have a sump pump, but it's really not needed in my spot
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Jan 2, 2021 01:11
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Alarbus posted:That should be a given with PECO. Seriously. It's been extra poo poo around here (up county, almost into ConEd territory) lately. Alarbus posted:I'm in the top of a little hilly area, with a walk out basement. My friend was a bit surprised I didn't have a sump pump, but it's really not needed in my spot If you have the grade that you can drain to daylight there is absolutely, positively no better possible way. Even if it costs you to dig that one time to get a pipe in......just do it.
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Jan 2, 2021 01:27
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Residency Evil posted:One of the nice parts about our house is that we’re on the same circuit as the fire department, so the power never goes out unless there’s a problem between the pole and our house. But yeah, we’ve got a battery backup pump just in case as well. Down here in lower Bucks I've got a sump that almost never stops, even though I've done some water mitigation stuff since buying the place. I now have a water powered backup, but still get nervous each time the power might go out.
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Jan 2, 2021 01:50
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The Rev posted:Down here in lower Bucks I've got a sump that almost never stops, even though I've done some water mitigation stuff since buying the place. I now have a water powered backup, but still get nervous each time the power might go out. I'm around you, previous owners put in a full french drain. The sump pump is really quiet so I don't hear it run unless I'm in that room in the basement, but I really don't think it does often. Only time I've heard it come on was when I took the lid off the pit to see how much water was coming into it during a heavy storm (it was A LOT.) Super glad they did all that before finishing the basement because its been fine so far in the 5 years we've been here. But I definitely want to look into a water pressure powered backup pump as well, because if we lose power during a heavy storm we're hosed. Last one I had some buckets ready to do manual bailing if needed.
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Jan 2, 2021 02:23
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opengl128 posted:But I definitely want to look into a water pressure powered backup pump as well, because if we lose power during a heavy storm we're hosed. Last one I had some buckets ready to do manual bailing if needed. Yeah, I said automatic backup generator because that's where my head is at around here.......we're mostly all well and septic mid and upper county so if the power goes out you're boned. Not just on sump pumps but like.....without the well working how long can you really stay in your house? So just about everyone has at least a little 3500 kw generator they can hook up to the well pump, sump pump, fridge and oil heater.
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Jan 2, 2021 02:34
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Oh man in sump pump world, I have one neighbor who's pump runs very often, and drains down to the gutter. Neither house next to hers pumps nearly as often. It's stained the curb and gutter all the way down the street. The city gets called by a nosy neighbor to test it bi annually. It's just groundwater coming from somewhere and she bears the brunt if it. Meanwhile I have no pump and a drainage easement at the back of my yard and no basement water in the two years I've been here. Except when we microflooded it twice, bad valve from the fridge tap and a wife who didn't understand not to turn the water back on after the sprinklers are drained.
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Jan 2, 2021 17:41
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Motronic posted:They need to be trimmed out. The easiest way I could possibly think of to trim out a kitty door would be to use an actual kitty door. Even if you don't want the flap, just take it out. It is probably not wide enough for a wall looks door thick So cute
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Jan 2, 2021 19:07
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Elephanthead posted:It is probably not wide enough for a wall looks door thick The person who asked was talking about a single sheet of drywall as I recall, so it might actually require trimming.
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Jan 2, 2021 20:28
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Is there anything that you guys would recommend pouring down a main kitchen sink disposal / drain on an annual (or monthly) basis in order to help it stay unclogged and fresh? On the interwebs, you can find virtually any answer to this question: lemon peeks, vinegar / baking soda, drano, etc. I am skeptical. But it's also simple enough that I don't want to skip it if it's actually useful at all. I have never really put stuff down the kitchen sink with the intention of cleaning it. What regular maintenance do you all do on your kitchen sink drain system?
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Jan 2, 2021 22:27
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pmchem posted:Is there anything that you guys would recommend pouring down a main kitchen sink disposal / drain on an annual (or monthly) basis in order to help it stay unclogged and fresh? Bucket, wrench, rags. Bucket under ptrap, wrench to gently loosen collar, hand unscrew and drop in bucket. Rag into sewer side. Take it outside and blast it out. Other rag to clean up the threads or inside of the downpipe. Remove rag from sewer, hand screw it all back together just to snug maybe a hair into snug. No tools required for reassembly. Never use drano. Annually (or few years if it's modern and 0 trees around it) scope your sewer. Showers and tubs get a plastic barbed drain snake and snake it out. They're $5. Get a drain strainer for all showers and tubs. They make tall ones for tubs with pop-up drains. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 22:37
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A wadded up zip lock bag and some caulk is probably at least a semi-permanent fix for a silver-dollar sized hole in the roof right (the roofer's definitely going to make fun of me for this)
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Jan 2, 2021 23:26
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Fallom posted:A wadded up zip lock bag and some caulk is probably at least a semi-permanent fix for a silver-dollar sized hole in the roof right Yeah....uhhhh......that needs more context but probably no.
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Jan 2, 2021 23:32
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I almost feel silly asking this but... I have a cute prob ~20 yr old wood shed that came with the house and while painted, the OSB+cedar(I think) doors are definitely rotting. Like, can't hold a #8 screw at all the screw drills right through kind of rotting. Is there an option lazier than making new doors for it? I feel like if I take the doors off the hinges it will pretty quickly end up where I have a bare slab and a metal shed on order that's bigger than the slab because I am totes gonna pour a little extra concrete. EDIT: Yea metal sheds are less than a thousand bucks. This thing is nice but I will definitely demo it and put up a metal one ...and add insulation ...and paint it to match the house ...and I wish it had better lighting better plan to rewire it its an airbnb now CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 23:34
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I'm just kidding, the recent ice storm in Virginia spiked a branch through the roof over my front porch that I was fortunate enough to find today when cleaning the gutters. I'll get a guy out for a patch ASAP but it's Saturday so that baggy's got a job to do in the meantime
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Jan 2, 2021 23:37
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pmchem posted:Is there anything that you guys would recommend pouring down a main kitchen sink disposal / drain on an annual (or monthly) basis in order to help it stay unclogged and fresh? For garbage disposals: If you end up using half a lemon/lime during a meal, toss that down the disposal and grind it up a bit. Smells great for a while. I've also used ice cubes and kosher salt, which cleans and deodorizers really well.
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Jan 2, 2021 23:37
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Fallom posted:I'm just kidding, the recent ice storm in Virginia spiked a branch through the roof over my front porch that I was fortunate enough to find today when cleaning the gutters. I'll get a guy out for a patch ASAP but it's Saturday so that baggy's got a job to do in the meantime For patches on that time scale, yeah  I try to keep some scrap flashing around just in case. Real easy to jam under a course of singles and add some caulk (under) for a temporary but surprisingly long lasting patch.
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Jan 2, 2021 23:54
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H110Hawk posted:Never use drano. This might be a dumb question but why? I've used drano a handful of times with no issues. My understanding is that the chemical doesn't react to the plastic that the pipes are made of, but does with whatever organic stuff (grease/hai/whatever). I get that plumbers don't want you to use it so they can charge you to snake your drain.
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Jan 3, 2021 00:27
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Poldarn posted:This might be a dumb question but why? I've used drano a handful of times with no issues. My understanding is that the chemical doesn't react to the plastic that the pipes are made of, but does with whatever organic stuff (grease/hai/whatever). I get that plumbers don't want you to use it so they can charge you to snake your drain. From what I understand, it’s really rough on older iron and lead pipes. At my old apartment building (built 1915), maintenance had to add a sleeve to our tub drain pipe (called them after I went into the basement while husband was in the shower and water was just falling out of the ceiling) because a section of it had just disintegrated. Drain cleaner chemicals will exacerbate this badly. We were told to never use Drano and to just call maintenance if our drain got slow so they could snake it (it frequently did because everything would catch in the pocked corroded pipes). We have a similar problem in the 1910 house we bought - tub drain is constantly slowing down, likely due to pipes being all old and rough and catching every single hair that gets past the drain catch (and there’s probably still sawdust). We bought a proper pipe snake for $50 at Home Depot and it has saved us untold money and countless plumber visits. We did try Drano once or twice (we’re going to replace the plumbing when we redo the bathroom so whatever), but it didn’t work as well as just snaking it.
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Jan 3, 2021 00:54
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