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Yes I noticed an immediate difference when I bought an external SSD and put games on it, as opposed to a HDD It's even more ridiculous now that I have my system running on an M2 drive.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:27
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I just hope the boot up/install windows process isn't going to be a PITA.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:27
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I just hope the boot up/install windows process isn't going to be a PITA. It will be like 10 minutes long, SSDs are so much faster at everything than old spinning rust it's not even comparable. Also, if you don't have the driver disks for your hardware, this can help https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/ This is Snappy Driver Installer Origin, which is actually good and not evil awful bullshit like most driver installers you see on google search ads. It's an open-source tool that will scan your PC and track down updated drivers from official sources for all of your hardware. I've used it to quickly set up friends computers back in the day when I was building a couple PCs a year. orange juche fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 05:17
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FlamingLiberal posted:I was very surprised that my modern PSU that I just bought today came with an adapter for a floppy drive. I don't even have a disc drive on my computer anymore, but who is still using floppies in 2021? Sometimes those are used to power satadom, CF adapters, or other devices internally. I think they just toss in at least one every kind of power you might need so nobody gets upset it's missing something.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:42
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Rexxed posted:Sometimes those are used to power satadom, CF adapters, or other devices internally. I think they just toss in at least one every kind of power you might need so nobody gets upset it's missing something.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:51
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orange juche posted:It will be like 10 minutes long, SSDs are so much faster at everything than old spinning rust it's not even comparable. Thanks! Should I download the driver pack to have ready on a USB, or will I mostly likely be able to boot up windows and go online and just let it search out for exactly what I need? I guess try the latter, but do the first if a driver issue gets in the way of getting online.
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Jan 3, 2021 06:34
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Thanks! Should I download the driver pack to have ready on a USB, or will I mostly likely be able to boot up windows and go online and just let it search out for exactly what I need? I guess try the latter, but do the first if a driver issue gets in the way of getting online. Windows 10 should have drivers that will work for just about any networking hardware, though some wireless cards might need an actual driver disk. If you're wired you should be able to get online with no issues with W10, so I wouldn't recommend downloading the driver packs unless you're doing something weird like wifi setup.
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Jan 3, 2021 08:14
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I just hope the boot up/install windows process isn't going to be a PITA. Also, if this is your first clean install in ages, you'll be happy to use Ninite to install the free programs you know you'll need.
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Jan 3, 2021 14:48
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Boxman posted:Also, if this is your first clean install in ages, you'll be happy to use Ninite to install the free programs you know you'll need. Just the other day I was wondering if there was a utility out there like this, awesome. I can't make command prompt come up and while this isn't a huge deal I can't figure out how to fix it short of a clean install, but couldn't be bothered with that. Now I can
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Jan 3, 2021 15:58
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Boxman posted:Also, if this is your first clean install in ages, you'll be happy to use Ninite to install the free programs you know you'll need. If you're comfortable with command line stuff (at least until you install the GUI package), Chocolatey is a slightly more involved but great option. I have a batch file I run on new installs
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Jan 3, 2021 16:00
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:3600 at that price is a good CPU and I’d just stick with that for a few gens unless it doesn’t perform how you want. The one that I bought comes with an AMD cooling fan. Is that sufficient, or should I look aftermarket? Do new CPUs come with appropriate thermal pad/paste, or do I need to buy aftermarket?
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Jan 3, 2021 16:13
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:The one that I bought comes with an AMD cooling fan. Is that sufficient, or should I look aftermarket? The AMD one is fine, but loud. If you don’t care, keep it. You can always change it later. It’ll have paste pre-applied. If you buy an aftermarket cooler unless it explicitly says it comes with it buy some. It’s cheap.
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Jan 3, 2021 16:21
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meatpimp posted:The one that I bought comes with an AMD cooling fan. Is that sufficient, or should I look aftermarket? I'd give the stock cooler a C+. Too noisy for me, but your mileage may vary. It does come with a thermal compound pre-applied and most aftermarket coolers come with enough to at least replace the cooler. I figure it's not a huge indulgence, and I'm way happier with the noise level now. Anyway, I think the build I posted earlier had a Noctua NH-U12S, which is a great cooler. There are a couple alternatives out there too, such as the Pure Rock 2 or [Scythe Fuma 2. The build below looks good to me! nitsuga fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 16:28
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:The AMD one is fine, but loud. If you don’t care, keep it. You can always change it later. Gotcha. Here's where I'm ending up, anyone see any issues? (Other than the vid card, which is existing. I thought it was a 1060, but it's a 1050ti, I'll upgrade when/if they get non-silly in their pricing/availability) PCPartPicker Part List CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: *Asus TUF GAMING B550-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($155.99 @ Amazon) Memory: *Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($162.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB OC Low Profile Video Card Case: Corsair iCUE 220T RGB Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $858.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-01-03 10:27 EST-0500
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Jan 3, 2021 16:29
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orange juche posted:Windows 10 should have drivers that will work for just about any networking hardware, though some wireless cards might need an actual driver disk. If you're wired you should be able to get online with no issues with W10, so I wouldn't recommend downloading the driver packs unless you're doing something weird like wifi setup. I'm far from my router, so I was going to use wifi to connect(Didn't look it up, just kind of assuming the mobo I put in(Asus H270 plus) has wiresless built in, and now that I'm looking it up....I don't think it does. Guess I'll be going to the store to buy a longass ethernet cable today until I find a wireless card.
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Jan 3, 2021 17:25
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meatpimp posted:Gotcha. Yes. That RAM is expensive for 3200, you can get 3600 for the same price.
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Jan 3, 2021 17:28
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Butterfly Valley posted:Yes. That RAM is expensive for 3200, you can get 3600 for the same price. That was my mistake in PCPartPicker, I did get the 3600, at $168 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082DGZJ9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Edit: Any down side to grabbing Windows 10 Education for $15 through my employer? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 17:35
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orange juche posted:Windows 10 should have drivers that will work for just about any networking hardware, though some wireless cards might need an actual driver disk. If you're wired you should be able to get online with no issues with W10, so I wouldn't recommend downloading the driver packs unless you're doing something weird like wifi setup. I was super pissed this was not the case with a B550 tomahawk. Luckily i have flash drives and other computers that still have full USB ports, but I couldn't believe it. Full mobo swap and the only thing that died was wired networking in TYOOL 2021 bus hustler fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 17:50
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meatpimp posted:That was my mistake in PCPartPicker, I did get the 3600, at $168 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082DGZJ9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No. It’s fine.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:36
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Alright guys, I bought a whole rear end screw kit and everything and it really seems like every screw is too big to screw my m.2 drive down even though they are pretty dang small. How small of a screw do I need?
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Jan 3, 2021 19:20
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Alright guys, I bought a whole rear end screw kit and everything and it really seems like every screw is too big to screw my m.2 drive down even though they are pretty dang small. How small of a screw do I need? My case came with them, I don’t believe the drives themselves came with any
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Jan 3, 2021 19:24
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My motherboard came with a single M2 screw for the HD slot that I immediately lost
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Jan 3, 2021 19:28
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my case came with some screws including standoffs, and i also bought a general mobo screw kit as well that came with some, but they are all too big to screw into my ASUS mobo m.2 screw slots. I just bought a cheap thing of "m.2 standoff screws for asus motherboards" on amazon, hopefully they will wind up being a little smaller. would anything blow up if I went ahead and tried to boot up/install windows without the m.2 anchored down as long as I don't move the case around? Today is my last off day for a while and I'd really like to finish most of the installation junk if I can. Here is one of my standoff screws laying on top of one of the m.2 holes for comparison. I have some shorter than that one, but they are the same width. 
Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 19:33
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:would anything blow up if I went ahead and tried to boot up/install windows without the m.2 anchored down as long as I don't move the case around? Today is my last off day for a while and I'd really like to finish most of the installation junk if I can. I'm on my second m.2 that isn't screwed down, you should be fine. When I attempted to loosen the screw when I first bought one, the entire standoff snapped off of the board immediately. Been running 3 years without it.
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Jan 3, 2021 19:48
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How bad is it to not use the weird support bracket that comes with modern big gpu’s? I’ve never used one in the past and been fine and my Gigabyte 1070 is the largest gpu I have ever seen in person, slightly larger than the msi 3070 I have now
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Jan 3, 2021 20:22
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Wowporn posted:How bad is it to not use the weird support bracket that comes with modern big gpu’s? I’ve never used one in the past and been fine and my Gigabyte 1070 is the largest gpu I have ever seen in person, slightly larger than the msi 3070 I have now I also have a Gigabyte 3070 and I don't feel like it's sagging. The weight seems distributed enough.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:32
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:my case came with some screws including standoffs, and i also bought a general mobo screw kit as well that came with some, but they are all too big to screw into my ASUS mobo m.2 screw slots. I just bought a cheap thing of "m.2 standoff screws for asus motherboards" on amazon, hopefully they will wind up being a little smaller. It’s fine. Worst thing that’ll happen is it’ll kick a little loose and you’ll freeze and have to reseat (which is unlikely anyway without movement/bump). Could result in data loss could not. I’m risk adverse with data, so I wouldn’t keep anything important that’s not backed up on it, but if you’re not then plug away. The likelihood of it slipping in the 5 days Amazon takes to ship you screws is very low.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:42
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:my case came with some screws including standoffs, and i also bought a general mobo screw kit as well that came with some, but they are all too big to screw into my ASUS mobo m.2 screw slots. I just bought a cheap thing of "m.2 standoff screws for asus motherboards" on amazon, hopefully they will wind up being a little smaller. Are you sure there wasn't a small bag of m.2 screws included in the box with your mobo?
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Jan 3, 2021 20:45
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jfff posted:Are you sure there wasn't a small bag of m.2 screws included in the box with your mobo? There will have been, but the mobo was a hand me down to the poster from their friend so the screws were probably in the original packaging or lost or not handed over or whatever
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Jan 3, 2021 21:01
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FlamingLiberal posted:It's probably not necessary unless it's explicitly recommended by the manufacturer You can also run the power cable(s) up from the top instead of down below to provide extra support via tensioning
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Jan 3, 2021 21:05
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I have a very 21st-century conundrum that I'm hoping y'all can help me with. My motherboard has 4 SATA ports, and three are currently in use: a CD/DVD/BR Read+Write disc drive, a 120GB SSD with the OS on it (C:), and a 1TB HDD (D:). I just bought a 2TB SSD, and found an old 1TB HDD of mine, and I'd like to install both. But that leaves me the matter of having to choose one item to leave out: the disc drive, the 120GB SSD, or one of the 1TB HDDs. My inclination is to unplug the disc drive, leave in in the case for potential future use (though I haven't used the thing in years..), and give myself maximum storage space. In that case. Would it be possible to install my new SSD as C: and the two HDDs to D: and E:?
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Jan 3, 2021 21:18
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Butterfly Valley posted:There will have been, but the mobo was a hand me down to the poster from their friend so the screws were probably in the original packaging or lost or not handed over or whatever Yeah, basically this. By the time I could get them from him(if he still has them) the ones I ordered will be here.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:19
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Also on this jump drive I have with my windows install, will it mess anything up during my windows install if I add in an extra folder to put the Snappy Driver installer thing and Ninite on it? I don't think I have a second jump drive laying around.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:24
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I would just leave the Windows boot file on it by itself, and load the other drivers on later (with the flash drive if needed)
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Jan 3, 2021 21:29
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Yeah, I wound up doing that. Posting from new PC right now(surprised it was all that easy), but I need to get all my drivers taken care of. I'll try that snappy driver thing someone posted earlier, maybe it will automatically take care of everything.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:52
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Speccy says my mobo is running at 118c, my case is still open and both case fans + cpu fan is running. CPU says 45c, gpu is 26c. This is probably a driver/bios thing or something right? It doesn't seem warm inside there. e: I touched some heatsinks, they were all either cool, or just had barely detectable warmth so I'm not going to worry about it right now. E: Apparently I didn't need a windows key either, the one from my microsoft account carried over. Although when my brother uses my old PC and puts a replacement drive in it, I reckon he might need it. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 22:12
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Speccy says my mobo is running at 118c, my case is still open and both case fans + cpu fan is running. CPU says 45c, gpu is 26c. This is probably a driver/bios thing or something right? It doesn't seem warm inside there. Using any software besides HWInfo seems to be real hit or miss. It'll pick up random sensors and give you weird numbers.
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Jan 3, 2021 22:33
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literally this big posted:I have a very 21st-century conundrum that I'm hoping y'all can help me with. My motherboard has 4 SATA ports, and three are currently in use: a CD/DVD/BR Read+Write disc drive, a 120GB SSD with the OS on it (C:), and a 1TB HDD (D:). I just bought a 2TB SSD, and found an old 1TB HDD of mine, and I'd like to install both. But that leaves me the matter of having to choose one item to leave out: the disc drive, the 120GB SSD, or one of the 1TB HDDs. Yeah clone old SSD to new, boot to new SSD, wipe old, set different letter to old, then set new to C.
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Jan 3, 2021 22:42
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Yeah clone old SSD to new, boot to new SSD, wipe old, set different letter to old, then set new to C. C: will be for OS and some programs. D: Will be for games. E: and F: are HDDs for non-SSD-necessary stuff.
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Jan 3, 2021 23:06
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Speaking of files, now that I have my old HDD hooked up, I should be able to copy the steamapps and users folder into the steam installation on my new ssd and not have to redownload anything, right?
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Jan 4, 2021 00:25
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