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Motronic posted:Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. Yeah this was one of my quarantine upgrades. It's been wonderful.
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Jan 2, 2021 03:30
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Motronic posted:Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. Our current kitchen is Ikea and it's all drawers. This is the 2nd kitchen i've had that's this way (Ikea Maximera i believe) and it owns.
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Jan 2, 2021 05:16
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The issue with rollout trays in standard American flip cabinets is that the corner of the trays end up scraping the inner wood doors. In other words, as a sacrifice, european style pull out drawers are just awesome, practical, and better than the traditional American doors.
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Jan 2, 2021 05:43
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luminalflux posted:Our current kitchen is Ikea and it's all drawers. This is the 2nd kitchen i've had that's this way (Ikea Maximera i believe) and it owns. I'm so glad to hear this. We're doing maximera drawers in ours, but haven't put it together yet.
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Jan 2, 2021 06:21
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Anyone have novel suggestions for how to organize utensils like forks, etc. and might be able to accommodate a large(r) variety? Mostly wondering if there's anything out of the box.
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Jan 2, 2021 06:44
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chainmail spoon vest spoon ammo bandolier knife tree magnetic fork wall fork ceiling catch silverware chandelier paper plates and disposable chopsticks peanut fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 07:20
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Water hammer started in my house recently. Only hammers on the hot water so I'm thinking something failed with the hot water heater. Water is dripping out of the relief valve pipe regularly now. Stuck a cup under the pipe to collect it and make sure that is where the water was coming from and it looks like I narrowed it down. According to this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_MTFlN5Rjs - it looks like it's possible my diaphragm expansion tank has failed since I'm not getting water hammer on the cold water. Might try to tackle replacing it myself.
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Jan 2, 2021 14:06
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Does anyone have what they believe to be a proper diagram of under kitchen sink plumbing with dishwasher that's currently accurate? Not in an island. Seems to be lots of stale info out there. Apparently air gap cylinders are actually useless but now there's arrestors, which some folks online say you don't actually need (for dishwasher). Also stuff like should there be a clean out under sink? Dual tub with disposal. Most google searches I come across go to garbage rear end pinterest which I'm immediately disregarding.
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Jan 2, 2021 15:42
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luminalflux posted:Our current kitchen is Ikea and it's all drawers. This is the 2nd kitchen i've had that's this way (Ikea Maximera i believe) and it owns. Yeah, for new builds this is the way to go. Opening the cabinet and pulling the drawer out is one wasted motion compared to a drawer.
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Jan 2, 2021 17:06
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falz posted:Does anyone have what they believe to be a proper diagram of under kitchen sink plumbing with dishwasher that's currently accurate? Not in an island. This isn't a "what's right" question, because that's several things. It's a "what's code in my jurisdiction" question. Are you aware of what your area requires? That's an easier question in a "here's how you attach those parts together" kinda way. A proper high loop going to the dishwasher input of the disposal is perfectly fine, as simple as you can get, and just works in jurisdictions that allow it.
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Jan 2, 2021 17:08
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NomNomNom posted:In the spirit of the thread title: Built a new mounting box, got the hood back up. Little wonky now, but that's to be expected. Now to finish painting and caulking like I was originally try to do. 
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Jan 3, 2021 01:12
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Have a Maytag electric oven. The drip pans for the smaller burners are fine but the previous user of the oven got drip pans that are slightly too big for the larger burners so they don’t fit snug. I measured the larger burner space and is 8.25 inches. To confirm, what size of drip pans I should get? Before measuring I got some labeled as 8in drip pans but they were slightly too large, and googling 8.25 drip pans isn’t returning much results. Related question, what size burner replacement should I get?
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Jan 3, 2021 01:51
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You'll need to find your oven model. This is often hidden either on the inside door of the oven, or on some place hidden behind a kickstand or something. Then look up the parts manual for that to see.
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Jan 3, 2021 04:44
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When we built this house, we added in an extra switch for ceiling fans in a few rooms. Most of those switches haven't been needed due to us buying fans with remote controls vs. wall control. I want to add a ceiling fan to the bonus room, but I'm a bit unsure what fan control I should be looking at where the switch would work. Right now the setup in the room is a three-switch box: one for the four LED lights; one for the boob light (where the fan will go; yes the box there is OK for a fan); and one for the eventual ceiling fan. I"d really prefer not having a remote - it's one more thing to lose. I also don't want a remote that's just stuck to the wall via some plastic holder. Any ideas? Also, on ladder-chat. I've got 8' ceilings upstairs, 10' downstairs. Upstairs, our attic access is a panel in the ceiling. I have to grab my 6' ladder, go up and move the panel, then bring up my big extension ladder from the garage and use that to get up there. That's annoying. Outside of installing drop-down stairs, which would be a great idea but beyond my skills right now, should I look to get an 8' ladder? 7'? Not sure how exactly the sizing works.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:01
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Omne posted:When we built this house, we added in an extra switch for ceiling fans in a few rooms. Most of those switches haven't been needed due to us buying fans with remote controls vs. wall control. I want to add a ceiling fan to the bonus room, but I'm a bit unsure what fan control I should be looking at where the switch would work. Any dumb pull-cord fan will work fine with a wall switch. The pull cord will just control speed. A multi position ladder is nice for homeowner stuff. They’re a little heavy, but you get several heights of a-ladder, and several lengths of straight ladder in one thing. They go on sale a lot. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Little-Giant-Multi-Aluminum-22-ft-Reach-Type-1A-300-lbs-Capacity-Telescoping-Multi-Position-Ladder/1001223578 eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 21:08
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Omne posted:When we built this house, we added in an extra switch for ceiling fans in a few rooms. Most of those switches haven't been needed due to us buying fans with remote controls vs. wall control. I want to add a ceiling fan to the bonus room, but I'm a bit unsure what fan control I should be looking at where the switch would work. Can't help you with the fan question, but for the ladder question, you need a telescoping ladder.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:09
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Omne posted:When we built this house, we added in an extra switch for ceiling fans in a few rooms. Most of those switches haven't been needed due to us buying fans with remote controls vs. wall control. I want to add a ceiling fan to the bonus room, but I'm a bit unsure what fan control I should be looking at where the switch would work. Almost every "remote" fan (that's not DC) is just a regular fan with a canopy module. if you just don't install the module you'll have 3 wires coming from the fan-- hot for motor, hot for light, and neutral. Just wire light to one switch (or dimmer) and the other to a wall fan control.
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Jan 4, 2021 04:35
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Qwijib0 posted:Almost every "remote" fan (that's not DC) is just a regular fan with a canopy module. if you just don't install the module you'll have 3 wires coming from the fan-- hot for motor, hot for light, and neutral. Just wire light to one switch (or dimmer) and the other to a wall fan control. This wasn't the case for the fan I installed earlier this year. The remote module itself, funny enough, looked nearly identical to the ~20 year old fan I removed, but the fan wiring was modified such that there was only one hot and one neutral for the whole fan. In this case the remote is also the only way to dim and change color temperature on the light. Granted, it wouldn't have been the end of the world to cut the giant molex-style connector off of it and trace wires to figure out which is hot for the fan motor and which is hot for the light.
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Jan 4, 2021 06:23
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Greetings thread. I bought a home a few days ago and the dishwasher immediately broke. It's a Bosch (300 series I think) It's throwing an e22 error, so the filter is clogged or there's something else preventing it from draining. I took the filter out, it doesn't look nearly as bad as the examples I'm seeing in the how tos, but I'm going to clean it anyway. I took off the plastic cover for the impeller to make sure that it spun freely and wasn't blocked by debris. For my actual question - I'm having a hell of a time getting the impeller cover snapped back into place. It looks like the cover is sitting where it should relative to the rest of the filter basin, but the clip isn't quite aligned with the hole. Is there a trick to these or am I just not cranking on it hard enough? E: got it after grabbing some pliers to help push. I'll be back with more questions if scrubbing the filter doesn't solve the issues Asleep Style fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jan 4, 2021 |
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Jan 4, 2021 17:33
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Qwijib0 posted:Almost every "remote" fan (that's not DC) is just a regular fan with a canopy module. if you just don't install the module you'll have 3 wires coming from the fan-- hot for motor, hot for light, and neutral. Just wire light to one switch (or dimmer) and the other to a wall fan control. I want to use this fan: https://www.wayfair.com/lighting/pd...?piid=427045704. It lists part numbers for wall control but they don't seem to exist. All of the other ceiling fans I've installed have used remote control, and the wall switch just keeps allows the fan and light to turn on/off. Which, fine, I'll go back to, but I was really hoping it would be easier to have one switch be the light, and another the fan control. I'm fine paying an electrician to do this, but I can't even figure out which fan to buy to allow that
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Jan 5, 2021 03:44
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Omne posted:I want to use this fan: https://www.wayfair.com/lighting/pd...?piid=427045704. It lists part numbers for wall control but they don't seem to exist. All of the other ceiling fans I've installed have used remote control, and the wall switch just keeps allows the fan and light to turn on/off. Which, fine, I'll go back to, but I was really hoping it would be easier to have one switch be the light, and another the fan control. I'm fine paying an electrician to do this, but I can't even figure out which fan to buy to allow that Look at the install guide (if you can find one) for that fan and see if it's got several sets of wires. Generally fans have separate wires for Fan and Light so you can switch/ control each. You'd need a fan controller for the fan speed speed (since it's variable voltage) and a switch for the light. Unless it's a weird fan you should be able to hire an electrician to get this wired up. They'll need to run 2 sets of wires to the fan from your switch, 1 for fan controller and 1 for the light switch. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 13:40
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Omne posted:I want to use this fan: https://www.wayfair.com/lighting/pd...?piid=427045704. It lists part numbers for wall control but they don't seem to exist. All of the other ceiling fans I've installed have used remote control, and the wall switch just keeps allows the fan and light to turn on/off. Which, fine, I'll go back to, but I was really hoping it would be easier to have one switch be the light, and another the fan control. I'm fine paying an electrician to do this, but I can't even figure out which fan to buy to allow that I can't find the install guide for the fan, but I did for the compatible wall switch--listed as an emerson SW405. It is a canopy module+wall system, and the canopy module takes the three expected wires, so I would guess there is a good chance you can use a separate light dimmer and fan switch with that fan if you wanted. https://images.1stoplighting.com/supplier/Emerson-Fans/specsheets/SW405-Inst.pdf the 405 is a hardwired switch that uses RF so it would meet your use case, but since you have separate hots run, you could forgo the module and awful looking switch and go DeLuxe like I do https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...HW-WH/309085403
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Jan 5, 2021 21:15
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Qwijib0 posted:I can't find the install guide for the fan, but I did for the compatible wall switch--listed as an emerson SW405. It is a canopy module+wall system, and the canopy module takes the three expected wires, so I would guess there is a good chance you can use a separate light dimmer and fan switch with that fan if you wanted. We have that same first switch in another room, I'll have to ask my wife about it (it was bought and installed without my knowledge).
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Jan 5, 2021 22:47
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Omne posted:We have that same first switch in another room, I'll have to ask my wife about it (it was bought and installed without my knowledge). There are basically two companies that make the module/controls for all the smaller fan brands, so that's not surprising.
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Jan 5, 2021 23:52
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How does everyone feel on ‘replacement’ vs non-replacement style windows? Any particular brands to stay away from? I have a 100 year old house with original windows that are in various states of disrepair. Some with wooden storm windows, aluminum storm windows, neither, no screens to speak of, painted shut, etc. I just want to be able to use them and I don’t have the time to go into repairing them, as much as I would love to.
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Jan 7, 2021 17:57
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This is going to sound like the stupidest question, but... Has anyone ever found a good way to hang towels in a kitchen that's NOT the oven handle? I'm an just sick to death of them continually falling on the floor. Someone dries their hands or a dish, and it doesn't get put back on "evenly", so the next time I open the oven door it falls on the floor. And even if they don't fall on the floor, if I have to open the oven completely, they touch the floor. I keep the floor clean, and I know whatever tiny amount of floor crud/bacteria/whatever that could ever possibly get on them has no real effect, but psychologically I don't like the idea of drying my clean hands/dishes with a floor towel, you know? Problem is...it really IS the best spot, location wise. Just below counter height (compared to, say, an "over the cabinet" mount that is just slightly lower,) and (for me ) my oven is close enough to the sink that it's right there, literally just turn my body to reach them. I mean..in an IDEAL scenario, my "work triangle" would be more open and NOT have an oven right next to the sink, but can't fix that now, maybe later. I know they make towels that have, like, buttons or tie offs to keep them on the handle, but then when I need to remove a towel to dry a dish, grab a hot pan, etc... I can't. I wonder if there's some sort of..."grip tape", for lack of a better word, I can put on the top of my oven handle to help keep them in place? Or there are things like this:  But just feel like there's no place to hang them. First world problem, I know.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:21
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I hang one on the fridge door handle.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:30
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I have a single pane picture window, and the glaze on the bottom is falling off. Can I re-glaze just the bottom, and can I do it in below freezing temperatures?
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Jan 7, 2021 18:32
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Use command strips or buy a decorative hook and put it wherever. When you cook throw it over your shoulder until done.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:50
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H110Hawk posted:Use command strips or buy a decorative hook and put it wherever. When you cook throw it over your shoulder until done. But goes back to my "but WHERE?" issue. Hang on an upper cabinet door or wall behind counter? Hangs down in front of the counter. Not so much on the wall, but I have very limited counter space, so it would hang in front of SOMETHING, like salt+pepper shaker, butter dish, or be too close to where my cooking utensils are and get in the way. Hang on a lower cabinet door? Too low and I have to bend over to get it. I THINK I can hang a couple off the edge of my counter, though now it's about as far away from the stove as it cold be in the kitchen, so I guess the "over the shoulder" thing is a good idea. Maybe I'll just get a small bin and keep a stack of folded "commercial-style" towels in there near the stove. Honestly, it's more an issue of "my kitchen is small and poorly designed" than anything else. Saving up for a re-model but it's not going to happen anytime soon.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:56
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Can you post a picture of your kitchen? Because uh, your utensil drawer.
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Jan 7, 2021 19:00
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We kept a stack of kitchen towels in the sauce drawer. Maybe try that?
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Jan 7, 2021 19:34
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H110Hawk posted:Can you post a picture of your kitchen? Because uh, your utensil drawer. Drawer pull is exactly what I was thinking as well.
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Jan 7, 2021 19:46
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We keep ours on the island and the oven door. Dry but dirty hang on the door, wet ones hand on the island so they don't get used for hot item removal accidently. clean ones stay in the drawer.
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Jan 7, 2021 19:47
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Lol, islands? Sauce drawers? drat, people living the high life over here. No current pics, can get some when I get home but it ain't much to look at. Here's a pic from earlier in the thread when I first moved in nd was just cleaning everything:  It's changed somewhat. The fridge has been moved to the opposite wall (was empty when I moved in, PO had a very small table there,) and the space were it was now houses a commercial-style stainless steel table/counter, like so:  This is the opposite corner, before fridge was moved...but it's in the middle of that wall, and one of those standalone "pantry" things is next to it, shoved in the corner for all my food, since there's no where to put it in the pitiful amount of cabinet space it naturally has:  So yeah...two drawers for utensils, one has mostly things like forks, spoons, etc... and the other is things like can opener, vegetable peeler, and other cooking utensils.
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Jan 7, 2021 19:48
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"island" Just a thought from that picture: maybe why not some magnetic hooks on the fridge?
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Jan 7, 2021 20:07
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Motronic posted:Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. I literally just brought in a few delivered boxes of these rev-a-shelf pull outs minutes before I read this post. They are great, good quality and very sturdy. We had them at our old rental and we made it a priority to get them now that we bought. In fact, we've been going ham on all types of various organizers throughout the house and garage. Those rag holder thingies posted upthread are very tempting. What other random organizers that people may not know exist does this thread recommend?
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Jan 7, 2021 20:17
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:How does everyone feel on ‘replacement’ vs non-replacement style windows? Any particular brands to stay away from? My father got anderson for one house and pella for the other (get quotes from everyone because at each location one brand was significantly cheaper). The windows and sliding doors themselves have made a huge difference in heating and cooling since the old aluminum sliding doors and wood windows that were hard to open were terrible. The only real downside is that the replacements are made to fit inside the existing area so you lose a little space around the outside. For example, the original sliding doors at ground level had the tracks right at ground level. Now there is a raised thing to step over with the track on it. That said the old door would let small insects underneath and the small rise has curbed this considerably.
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Jan 7, 2021 20:59
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If the fridge isn't next to the stove, can you put a magnetic or Command hook there to hang towels? The side of the fridge, rather than the door. Or a towel ring on your steel table? Maybe stuck to the underside so the loop hangs down?
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Jan 7, 2021 21:28
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hang on a lower cabinet door? Too low and I have to bend over to get it. I have a hook that resembles an S-hook that clips to the top of the lower cabinet door and hangs a towel from that. I'm 6'3", and I don't feel like I'm 'bending over' to grab it. Reaching down, maybe. This guy: https://www.homedepot.com/p/interDesign-Forma-Over-the-Cabinet-Hook-in-Brushed-29420/206734669 I bent the part that hooks over the cabinet slightly so that it doesn't wiggle around or pop off if you knock it upwards.
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Jan 7, 2021 21:33
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