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Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

B-Nasty posted:

I have a hook that resembles an S-hook that clips to the top of the lower cabinet door and hangs a towel from that. I'm 6'3", and I don't feel like I'm 'bending over' to grab it. Reaching down, maybe.

This guy: https://www.homedepot.com/p/interDesign-Forma-Over-the-Cabinet-Hook-in-Brushed-29420/206734669

I bent the part that hooks over the cabinet slightly so that it doesn't wiggle around or pop off if you knock it upwards.

I got one of those for my parents' kitchen towel, and my stepmother says "i think you saved our marriage"

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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


DrBouvenstein posted:

Lol, islands? Sauce drawers? drat, people living the high life over here.

No current pics, can get some when I get home but it ain't much to look at.


Here's a pic from earlier in the thread when I first moved in nd was just cleaning everything:



Install a towel bar (that is shallow enough to not hit your oven door) in front of your sink and hang it there, imho:

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
^ ^ ^ Possibly But same issue as other locations, I hate towels hanging down in front of cabinet doors, cause then you have to make sure to move them aside when you close the door, or they get caught in it, etc... I'll add it to the list of locations to test.^ ^ ^

B-Nasty posted:

I have a hook that resembles an S-hook that clips to the top of the lower cabinet door and hangs a towel from that. I'm 6'3", and I don't feel like I'm 'bending over' to grab it. Reaching down, maybe.

This guy: https://www.homedepot.com/p/interDesign-Forma-Over-the-Cabinet-Hook-in-Brushed-29420/206734669

I bent the part that hooks over the cabinet slightly so that it doesn't wiggle around or pop off if you knock it upwards.

Ehhh...I'm not saying I won't try something like that, but my cabinet doors are already like 3-4" below the oven handle, that drops it another 2", so now we're at almost 6" lower than where it was. Maybe I just have short arms relative to my height (5'11"?)

I've got a magnetic hook or two lying around for the fridge, and probably some kind of S-hook I can at least use temporarily across the under-kitchen cabinet door to see if I like those locations.

But I'm pretty sure that even a slight breeze will knock a standard kitchen towel off those small hooks, right? I mean...I've experienced towels on hooks before, it never ends well.

Basically, I'm just being Mr.Pitt from that episode where Elaine is trying to buy him socks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMnNvjUOd3Y

V V V huh...I can certainly say I've never taken a close look at my kitchen towels before, I assume they do as well? If not, I'm not above just ordering a dozen or so towels that do. V V V

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 7, 2021

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


all my ikea hand and kitchen sized towels have little loops for being hooked.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Sirotan posted:

Install a towel bar (that is shallow enough to not hit your oven door) in front of your sink and hang it there, imho:


100% this, although maybe on one of the drawers further to the right, or hell, put towels on all of them!

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


DrBouvenstein posted:

^ ^ ^ Possibly But same issue as other locations, I hate towels hanging down in front of cabinet doors, cause then you have to make sure to move them aside when you close the door, or they get caught in it, etc... I'll add it to the list of locations to test.^ ^ ^

If that doesn't work then I would attach a towel bar to the side of one of the cabinets that are framing the window. Easy access, isn't blocking anything.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Deviant posted:

all my ikea hand and kitchen sized towels have little loops for being hooked.

I just cut a hole at the midpoint of the long edge. By the time that hole causes structural failure, the towel is worn enough to demote it to rag status.

bred
Oct 24, 2008
Put a little hook between the sink false drawer front and the slightly open drawer then hang a loop towel from it. It doesn't block the lower cabinets and you can screw the hook in close to the countertop to make it easy to reach.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
The Home Zone: Hooks: Check ‘em Out.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Rexxed posted:

My father got anderson for one house and pella for the other (get quotes from everyone because at each location one brand was significantly cheaper). The windows and sliding doors themselves have made a huge difference in heating and cooling since the old aluminum sliding doors and wood windows that were hard to open were terrible. The only real downside is that the replacements are made to fit inside the existing area so you lose a little space around the outside. For example, the original sliding doors at ground level had the tracks right at ground level. Now there is a raised thing to step over with the track on it. That said the old door would let small insects underneath and the small rise has curbed this considerably.

That’s the only real downside I’ve heard about RE replacement windows (losing window space around the frame) but my windows are fairly large as-is so I probably wouldn’t mind too much.

I know there’s a lot of factors involved, but any idea about what he paid per window?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Spring Heeled Jack posted:

That’s the only real downside I’ve heard about RE replacement windows (losing window space around the frame) but my windows are fairly large as-is so I probably wouldn’t mind too much.

I know there’s a lot of factors involved, but any idea about what he paid per window?

I'm not certain, but averaged out it's in the ballpark of 2k per thing. There's a ton of variation in the installs though, because some were standard house windows from the 60s, some were sliding glass doors, and some are super big custom windows he had made for himself in the 70s that were lexan or whatever (in the city, so they couldn't have a brick thrown through them). IIRC the three story house in the city (with some extra big ground floor windows) would've been about 15 windows for $30K. The suburban house with five sliding glass doors, 10 or so normal sized windows and three or four tiny basement windows was around $50K. It's been a few years so I don't know what the exact cost per was, but I suspect the normal sized windows are much less than 2k and the extra big ones and sliding glass doors are probably more.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

DrBouvenstein posted:

Lol, islands? Sauce drawers? drat, people living the high life over here.

I put command hooks for my towel and oven mitt on the side of the fridge but I can't tell if you have enough gap between the oven and the fridge from the picture. Looks like you might. For me it's a convenient place to have them and the side of fridge is otherwise useless.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Wallet posted:

I put command hooks for my towel and oven mitt on the side of the fridge but I can't tell if you have enough gap between the oven and the fridge from the picture. Looks like you might. For me it's a convenient place to have them and the side of fridge is otherwise useless.

The fridge has moved to the other wall.


bred posted:

Put a little hook between the sink false drawer front and the slightly open drawer then hang a loop towel from it. It doesn't block the lower cabinets and you can screw the hook in close to the countertop to make it easy to reach.

I think we have a winner. The towel will hang down on the hinge side of both doors, so shouldn't get in the way.

I think I'll also put a hook of some kind on the side of one of the cabinets framing the window and see if I like that too/better.

Thank you all for indulging my bugaboo re: kitchen towels.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Can you get magnetic versions of these push and grip towel holders?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PX39DPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LMg-FbRX9S7PT

Then put them on the fridge door.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Hm did tiles just get super pricey? I know everything has been wild over the past year, but ive only really been following lumber (which at least hear is down substantially from peak).

Every mosaic style, regardless of square, hexagon, etc., is minimum $20/sqft! Is that just the norm?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Jenkl posted:

Hm did tiles just get super pricey? I know everything has been wild over the past year, but ive only really been following lumber (which at least hear is down substantially from peak).

Every mosaic style, regardless of square, hexagon, etc., is minimum $20/sqft! Is that just the norm?

I don't know about tile specifically, but new construction is booming and renovation is booming to insane levels.

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



Does anyone here have experience with synthetic turf?

For background, my wife and I have a 3 year old and another child coming soon, and we put down synthetic turf because I'm going to install a playground, and she didn't want wood chips and our dog kills all grass.

We had gone into it wanting sand, but got talked out of it by the installer, and because we had a dog, they recommended zeolite for the infill. So we did research on the brand they're using, etc., and felt comfortable. When it got installed though, it was 2/3rds copper slag and 1/3rd zeolite. I looked up the copper slag brand/etc., and while the SDS doesn't seem too bad, there could be heavy metals like lead, arsenic, etc., at potential concentrations of like 70-90 ppm. I know they hopefully shouldn't come into contact much with it hopefully, but it still makes us nervous.

If I wanted to remove the infill and replace it with something else, can I simply use a shopvac to take out the current infill carefully?

Jaxyon
Mar 7, 2016
I’m just saying I would like to see a man beat a woman in a cage. Just to be sure.

Had some new random cracks appear in my driveway.

Right down the center of the sections. I live in LA so it's usually really dry, doesn't rain a lot, and never gets below freezing.

I'm puzzled why such a long crack appeared and why now. Am I overthinking this? Just spray some sealant and forget about it?

Jaxyon fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jan 24, 2021

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
The ground moves here. I wouldn't do anything.

ntan1
Apr 29, 2009

sempai noticed me
Concrete has the natural tendency to crack if left for a sufficient amount of time. Some of it may be because of the way the concrete was laid, earthquakes, settling, etc. Unless it's significantly wide it's usually considered pretty normal

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

DrBouvenstein posted:

Lol, islands? Sauce drawers? drat, people living the high life over here.

No current pics, can get some when I get home but it ain't much to look at.


Here's a pic from earlier in the thread when I first moved in nd was just cleaning everything:


It's changed somewhat. The fridge has been moved to the opposite wall (was empty when I moved in, PO had a very small table there,) and the space were it was now houses a commercial-style stainless steel table/counter, like so:


This is the opposite corner, before fridge was moved...but it's in the middle of that wall, and one of those standalone "pantry" things is next to it, shoved in the corner for all my food, since there's no where to put it in the pitiful amount of cabinet space it naturally has:


So yeah...two drawers for utensils, one has mostly things like forks, spoons, etc... and the other is things like can opener, vegetable peeler, and other cooking utensils.

See the problem is that you're using the oven decorative towels. You should just attach those towels as securely as you can and forget about ever using them at all. This is like complaining that the buttons on the decorative pillows hurt your face.

Buy yourself a 24 pack of white bar towels. The towels will live everywhere its convenient (shoulder, sink top, oven, on that table to the left) and just get dumped in the wash when you're done/they're gross. You should store them on the bottom shelf of the steel table or in a drawer you're willing to sacrifice. This is The Way.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

What the gently caress is a sauce drawer? I'm picturing a drawer just filled with loose sauce and some snooty rich person with a ladle scooping it out.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


D-Pad posted:

What the gently caress is a sauce drawer? I'm picturing a drawer just filled with loose sauce and some snooty rich person with a ladle scooping it out.

sauce packets from delivery/takeout

see also: sauce jar

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

pmchem posted:

sauce packets from delivery/takeout

see also: sauce jar

It's this.

Also stored in sauce drawer: fortune cookies (we give them to our rats periodically), extra labels and pieces of kitchen organizers/storage, plastic flatware, etc

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


BonerGhost posted:

It's this.

Also stored in sauce drawer: fortune cookies (we give them to our rats periodically), extra labels and pieces of kitchen organizers/storage, plastic flatware, etc

also lol at d-pad's picture of a rich person sauce drawer, embedding this to 1 minute 6 seconds in --

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7VaXlMvAvk&t=66s

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Oooooh ok, we just called the kitchen drawer like that with random poo poo the junk drawer. All kinds of loose knick knacks and batteries.

If I win the lottery I'm gonna do a real rich person's sauce drawer with built in warming.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Whomst among us does not have a drawer for their master sauce?

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
I've always kept that poo poo in a jar / plastic bin up in a corner shelf top where no one can really reach it.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

D-Pad posted:

Oooooh ok, we just called the kitchen drawer like that with random poo poo the junk drawer. All kinds of loose knick knacks and batteries.

If I win the lottery I'm gonna do a real rich person's sauce drawer with built in warming.

Well ours is the sauce drawer bc non-kitchen things and general junk are not allowed in it. :colbert:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
If I ever had a drawer like that it would just have like two packets of 10 year old taco sauce in it. It's kinda weird to me that someone might accumulate enough single serving sauce packets to warrant a dedicated kitchen drawer honestly, but I'm sure I have a random collection of something that would be strange to other peeps so whatever.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I just call it the junk drawer, but I immediately knew what sauce drawer meant. It's where you keep your sauce.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
Junk drawer in my mind is like some bottle openers, tape, string, maybe super glue. That intermingles with the hot sauce? Seems dangerous.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


*points to thread title*




Finally tackling the living room ceiling. This is what happens when you ignore a roof leak for (up to, but probably less tho I'll never know) 4 years.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Does it really count if you have taped ram board down and plastic over your stuff? Anything involving sheet rock or plaster does.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

I have fireplace questions. Homeownership has been wild so far because I don't know poo poo about poo poo, but have surprisingly been able to accomplish a lot using the internet as a resource. However, when it comes to fire and natural gas and potentially burning down or exploding my house I'm gonna need a goon sanity check.

We have a natural gas fireplace. When we put an offer in and got it inspected the gas line coming into the fireplace did not have a log lighter and was uncapped. I had them cap it for safety. We are finally getting some decently cold weather and want a fire.

First, I wrestled the gas cap off which was a bitch because there is little clearance between it and the floor of the fireplace to get a good grip with a wrench and turn.

Second, I screwed on the universal log lighter I got at lowe's. It says I need to install it with the shutter facing me and the gas holes facing the back which is what I did.

I have a few questions:

With the shutter facing the front there is still some room to turn the log lighter further for a tighter fit. It's pretty solidly on there and not turning that easy but I feel like I should be turning it until I absolutely can't anymore. Unfortunately, if I do that I can get about 3/4ths of a revolution and no matter how much muscle I put into it can't get it to do a full revolution so the shutter is facing frontwards again. See:



So is it better to leave it as is with the shutter facing the front, or now that I have it open enough for a blue flame should I screw the log lighter further in until I can't anymore which would face the shutter towards the back?

Next question. The log lighter instructions aren't very clear on the shutter. I am assuming how I have it on the picture above is fine? Mostly blue flame. Should it be all the way open instead or is the crack I've got good?

Next questions:



This is a different style fireplace than our previous rental, plus it's Texas so we barely use fireplaces and I didn't grow up with one. Is it ok that the chain doesn't hang down all the way and there is about 3/4th inch of clearance between the bottom of the chain and the bottom of the fireplace? I feel like a bunch of ash/coals/debris is going to blow under and out onto the floor? Should there be some kind of lip or the chain be longer?

Also, how do you clean this thing? Our last fireplace had a little box thingy that opened up into the fireplace you swept all the ash into then on the outside wall opened up to empty it outside. This one does not back up to an outside wall and has no such thing. Feels like cleaning it is just gonna end up with ash all over my living room.

Finally, the "logs" that are in there are some kind of stone or something? Are these the kind that can be heated up with the gas flame and hold heat or are they purely decorative? Does such a thing even exist because I feel like it might but I'm not sure? If they are does that mean my fireplace is not made for wood burning? I want flame and cackling.

TLDR: I don't know poo poo about fireplaces somebody help.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
If you don’t know the provenance of your fireplace and what shape it’s in it would probably be a good idea to get a chimney sweep to inspect and clean it to be sure.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

devmd01 posted:

If you don’t know the provenance of your fireplace and what shape it’s in it would probably be a good idea to get a chimney sweep to inspect and clean it to be sure.

It's new as part of a remodel before we bought and I did have a chimney sweep clean the chimney and make sure that was all ready.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

D-Pad posted:

With the shutter facing the front there is still some room to turn the log lighter further for a tighter fit. It's pretty solidly on there and not turning that easy but I feel like I should be turning it until I absolutely can't anymore. Unfortunately, if I do that I can get about 3/4ths of a revolution and no matter how much muscle I put into it can't get it to do a full revolution so the shutter is facing frontwards again. See:



So is it better to leave it as is with the shutter facing the front, or now that I have it open enough for a blue flame should I screw the log lighter further in until I can't anymore which would face the shutter towards the back?

Mix up some super dish soapy water in a spray bottle. Spray the point you're screwing it on. If it leaks then you need to fix that, if it doesn't you're fine. It should make big growing bubbles if it's leaking. My post history has an example. The ratio is like a good hulking squirt to a cup of water.

Call your gas utility and ask if they can come inspect it. Ours will do it for free to prevent you from killing yourself and possibly a good portion of your neighbors if you gently caress it up.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


D-Pad posted:

I have fireplace questions. Homeownership has been wild so far because I don't know poo poo about poo poo, but have surprisingly been able to accomplish a lot using the internet as a resource. However, when it comes to fire and natural gas and potentially burning down or exploding my house I'm gonna need a goon sanity check.

We have a natural gas fireplace. When we put an offer in and got it inspected the gas line coming into the fireplace did not have a log lighter and was uncapped. I had them cap it for safety. We are finally getting some decently cold weather and want a fire.

First, I wrestled the gas cap off which was a bitch because there is little clearance between it and the floor of the fireplace to get a good grip with a wrench and turn.

Second, I screwed on the universal log lighter I got at lowe's. It says I need to install it with the shutter facing me and the gas holes facing the back which is what I did.

I have a few questions:

With the shutter facing the front there is still some room to turn the log lighter further for a tighter fit. It's pretty solidly on there and not turning that easy but I feel like I should be turning it until I absolutely can't anymore. Unfortunately, if I do that I can get about 3/4ths of a revolution and no matter how much muscle I put into it can't get it to do a full revolution so the shutter is facing frontwards again. See:



So is it better to leave it as is with the shutter facing the front, or now that I have it open enough for a blue flame should I screw the log lighter further in until I can't anymore which would face the shutter towards the back?

Next question. The log lighter instructions aren't very clear on the shutter. I am assuming how I have it on the picture above is fine? Mostly blue flame. Should it be all the way open instead or is the crack I've got good?

Next questions:



This is a different style fireplace than our previous rental, plus it's Texas so we barely use fireplaces and I didn't grow up with one. Is it ok that the chain doesn't hang down all the way and there is about 3/4th inch of clearance between the bottom of the chain and the bottom of the fireplace? I feel like a bunch of ash/coals/debris is going to blow under and out onto the floor? Should there be some kind of lip or the chain be longer?

Also, how do you clean this thing? Our last fireplace had a little box thingy that opened up into the fireplace you swept all the ash into then on the outside wall opened up to empty it outside. This one does not back up to an outside wall and has no such thing. Feels like cleaning it is just gonna end up with ash all over my living room.

Finally, the "logs" that are in there are some kind of stone or something? Are these the kind that can be heated up with the gas flame and hold heat or are they purely decorative? Does such a thing even exist because I feel like it might but I'm not sure? If they are does that mean my fireplace is not made for wood burning? I want flame and cackling.

TLDR: I don't know poo poo about fireplaces somebody help.

Mix up some soapy water and check for leaks as other poster has mentioned. I'd highly recommend unscrewing the pipe and getting some 'pipe dope' that is rated for gas pipe and putting a little on the threads and screwing it in. This will keep gas from escaping the threads.


If it doesn't have an ash drop or outside access you can probably get one put in at a cost. As you said it'll suck to clean up Ash without one.

The chain probably doesn't need to go all the way down it's meant to keep sparks from jumping out and setting your house on fire.

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


You're not really burning anything in a gas fireplace, so there isn't any ash to worry about. There is a big difference between wood burning and gas fireplaces.

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