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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Nerobro posted:

ASA is the UV resistant alternative to PLA. Not ABS.

wat

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Hamburlgar
Dec 31, 2007

WANTED

Sagebrush posted:

It really doesn't help your case when you keep upgrading the cost with every post. A Prusa Mini is $350, not $800. Fucks' sake.

Plus $49 shipping to the US, plus import duty (~$40?) plus a 12 week wait from February.

And when comparing print volumes between machines, the i3 is what’s comparable to an Ender 3.





Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Yep they're more expensive but people really can't seem to get past the money thing. You pay a little more, you get a better product. Autoleveling and a spring-steel PEI bed are hugely valuable features for newbies. Some people might not be aware that this is an option because Prusas aren't sold on Amazon.

Also IMO the importance of build volume is really oversold but I get that for some people it could be a dealbreaker, sure.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Sagebrush posted:

It really doesn't help your case when you keep upgrading the cost with every post. A Prusa Mini is $350, not $800. Fucks' sake.

Being good at electronics is completely orthogonal to wanting to hack around with your tools. Again I don't see what is so hard about this concept. If this thread were about power drills and everyone was into one specific harbor freight model that works pretty well most of the time but really benefits from upgrading half a dozen small parts and sometimes is broken right out of the box, nobody would be getting offended at saying "hey, if you just want a tool that works, get a Makita."

Or maybe they would, I don't loving know, some people are just allergic to the concept of paying for quality

It's $400. An ender 3 is $200. It's $400 with a 3 month lead time. An ender I can go pick up from microcenter. Today.

I think your impression of the ender 3 is... way off base. And I can totally understand why. All you hear about are the people who have them not running, or are broken, or have enough farkle to make the alternator cry under 8000rpm. An out of the box ender 3, prints nicely. It just.. does. It's limited to around 50mm/s. They don't "need" anything. It's just nice things. If you're fine at 50mm/s. Do nothing. Enjoy the thing.

I suspect the broken extruders are user error. Same as if someone use their nice chisels on nails. My buddy has 8 ender 5's all with the plastic extruders, and they've been running 20/7 for the last 6 months with no extruder problems. (same extruder as the ender 3.. )

You don't need to replace the bowden tube. Hard stop. I had the same bowden on mine for 11 months. And probably 18kg of filament.

For $50 on top of the ender 3 price, you can get the PEI coated metal bed. (this can wait till your original build mat is destroyed). An extruder that can deal with ham handed users. And a bed that doesn't move. The only thing you're "missing" is automatic bed leveling. And I'm not convinced that's actually a benefit. And you get 25% more build area and 25% more vertical build area in the bargain. (Edit, than an i3, not a mini..)

This doesn't invalidate your argument. But it does make the comparison a lot closer. And I'm a big supporter of people buying Prusa. I'm also a serious "don't get into this if you don't know what you're getting into". It's not like Prusa's are magic part machines either.

Edit: I could also be wrong on the ASA/PLA/ABS thing. I thought ASA was closer to the brittle fracture nature of PLA than the plastic failure of ABS... But I can't be bothered to look it up now.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 6, 2021

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sagebrush posted:

If this thread were about power drills and everyone was into one specific harbor freight model that works pretty well most of the time but really benefits from upgrading half a dozen small parts and sometimes is broken right out of the box, nobody would be getting offended at saying "hey, if you just want a tool that works, get a Makita."

Nobody would mind this.


quote:

Or maybe they would, I don't loving know, some people are just allergic to the concept of paying for quality

This is what pisses people off.

It has nothing to do with “the concept of quality”. Nobody is arguing the Prusa isn’t a great machine. It’s more akin to someone asking about a good chrome book when they collected returnable cans for a year because their wife threatened to leave them if they spent more than $300 on a computer and someone saying JUST GET A MACBOOK AIR YOU POOR. (I say this as a Mac guy)

On top of it every time someone asks about how to adjust an Ender the answer is PRUSA DOESNT HAVE THESE ISSUES.

It’s not helpful. Like at all.

IMO the way to do this is to say “Hey, I know you are looking at spending $200 on this, but if you can swing a little more and wait the time for delivery, you can get this Prusa with all this great stuff” and then (most importantly) shut the gently caress up if someone doesn’t immediately go order one., because you know, people can spend money how the gently caress they want without getting berated.

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

w00tmonger posted:

How much of a thing is a dry storage box for filament while in storage/in use? Calgary Alberta, so generally dry, snowy winters

I'm in central AB and haven't had any issues storing PLA and PETG just in resealable plastic bags with some desiccant packets, or my printer enclosure with desiccant pellets.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

I'm in Vancouver and only store sensitive filaments in dryboxes (Nylon, mostly)

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
For some content other than ender prusa slap fight, I made an octolapse:

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Reminds me that I printed a few of that model and they were immediately snagged by coworkers that thought they would look cool on a bookshelf.

I'm mostly printing goofy display pieces just to use up old spools, anybody got some favorite neat looking models?

Recently found a model of a nine-tailed fox that looks really good in silk PLA that I'm printing now (side note I love adaptive cubic infill and monotonic top/bottom layers in Prusaslicer).

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Tremors posted:

For some content other than ender prusa slap fight, I made an octolapse:



hahaha I see the "fuck2020" fuckflake on the bed

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

insta posted:

hahaha I see the "fuck2020" fuckflake on the bed

Made a few of those, too!

Also the "Baby its Covid Outside" ornament was a hit.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013



There's something very satisfying about getting supports out as one piece,

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS



This thing frickin sweet. I'm sure I'll have to square a few things but I'mpressed with it

150usd for an ender 3 v1, new glass bed with heater under neath and 5 spare nozzles

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
That's a hell of a deal. Welcome to the Ender 3 club.

Hamburlgar
Dec 31, 2007

WANTED
ShOuLd HaVe BoUgHt A pRuSa



















Hell yeah, welcome :-)

hoiyes
May 17, 2007
Tfw your overnight print completed with only two winds left on the spool :smug:

Brother got me a Pi for xmas and finally had time to get Octoprint set up with a spare webcam that was lying around. I have the printer in a detached shed so gosh it's nice to be able to check in from the couch.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Hamburlgar posted:

ShOuLd HaVe BoUgHt A pRuSa


Hell yeah, welcome :-)

For $150, I don't think the Prusa army is going to have any complaints. I'd make that deal any day.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

I will be getting a bonus this year, so I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Prusa Mini+. Let's see if this hype is legit. I'll let you guys know in 6 months.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

I updated my Chitubox install to the latest stable release earlier this week and uh, it wasn't stable. At all. Hooooly poo poo, it was dire. So I pulled the trigger on the beta release of 1.8 (since it fixed the specific issue where deleting supports crashed the program) and it's amazing so far.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Rockman Reserve posted:

I updated my Chitubox install to the latest stable release earlier this week and uh, it wasn't stable. At all. Hooooly poo poo, it was dire. So I pulled the trigger on the beta release of 1.8 (since it fixed the specific issue where deleting supports crashed the program) and it's amazing so far.

Wow, you aren't kidding. I like it although I forgot to backup my configs and had to redo them. This thing slices a hell of a lot faster now.

e: Hmm well, maybe not. The first thing I sliced went fast and now it's back to slow again. Maybe I need to reboot my machine or something.

e: e: Aha, volume calculation was turned on again. Back to fast after unchecking that!

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 8, 2021

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

w00tmonger posted:



This thing frickin sweet. I'm sure I'll have to square a few things but I'mpressed with it

150usd for an ender 3 v1, new glass bed with heater under neath and 5 spare nozzles

Good deal! I wish you the best and I will say that despite my extreme Prusa-boosting I used printers more or less equivalent to the Enders for several years and got great results out of them most of the time. For $150 you can't really lose there

Doctor Zero posted:

I will be getting a bonus this year, so I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Prusa Mini+. Let's see if this hype is legit. I'll let you guys know in 6 months.

Good luck! They are excellent printers and it's absurd that it takes so long to get one. You can check the shipping table if you haven't found it already:

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/shipping-information_2297

Looks like the beginning of March for you (though I've known them to beat their delivery estimates before).

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Yeah, I ordered mine shortly before the pandemic started and I still ended up getting it faster than the projected delivery date.

Seems like they're doing a "worst case" projection, for the most part.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Just saw this, and it looks pretty cool if it can print without fusing the play pieces in place.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4689389

Think I'm going to give it a try!

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Yeah, I ordered mine shortly before the pandemic started and I still ended up getting it faster than the projected delivery date.

Seems like they're doing a "worst case" projection, for the most part.

Yeah I figured. They ship their Prusament filament super fast even though they state it will take longer. But trying not to get too excited until it shows up.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Just saw this, and it looks pretty cool if it can print without fusing the play pieces in place.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4689389

Think I'm going to give it a try!

That chess board looks wild

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009
got my MINI+ this morning (ordered early Nov as a MINI, free upgrade). Shipped out of prague the morning on wednesday and at my door in Southern US today. First prints look great!

Interesting note i just learned on reddit: The faceplate on the MINI+ isn’t 3d printed but it is injection molded from failed prints and scrap filament at prusa. Very cool!

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
So I am printing a large housing for the first time and will have to split the parts. Does anyone have experience with joining them? I have been thinking about just having some locating features and then something like a 'bolt' to lock it together.
But maybe there is something more elegant? Glue might also be an option.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

With careful design you can make some pretty effective joints that can then be reinforced with glue. Tongue-and-groove or mortise-and-tenon are probably the most relevant to housings, though box joints might work too.

If you want to do it mechanically, you can always model mating screw bosses on the inside surface of the housing and screw or bolt the pieces together.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

Class Warcraft posted:

How cold of an environment can an FDM printers be in before it starts messing with the prints? I'd like to move my Ender 3 to the garage but it's unheated so it'd be out there in 40F degree temperatures at night.

This is from ages ago but I had my original Monoprice FDM printer in my garage for a few months and it worked more or less okay for PLA, but my electric bill as the weather got colder ended up somewhere in the neighborhood of three times as much as it it usually is for that time of year. Keeping parts that hot for that long in that cold of an environment takes a LOT of juice.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


I recently got an Ender5 Pro. Initial prints have come pretty good, cubes are coming out square (maybe a little pointy on the corners)

but the biggest defect are some artefacts on Benchy’s hull.




Specifically, port side curves.

I’ve guessed it’s over extrusion, so I lowered the nozzle temp to just beyond the point that adhesion becomes an issue, calibrated my extruded steps. But it seems to persist.

Any advice into what to look at?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Horse Clocks posted:

I recently got an Ender5 Pro. Initial prints have come pretty good, cubes are coming out square (maybe a little pointy on the corners)

but the biggest defect are some artefacts on Benchy’s hull.




Specifically, port side curves.

I’ve guessed it’s over extrusion, so I lowered the nozzle temp to just beyond the point that adhesion becomes an issue, calibrated my extruded steps. But it seems to persist.

Any advice into what to look at?

Those are called "zits" in 3d printer parlance. Search for that and you'll find a variety of suggestions.

Maigius
Jun 29, 2013


Does anyone have suggestions for an enclosure for a Prusa mini? It's currently sitting on a Jonaxel shelf from Ikea, if that helps.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Horse Clocks posted:

I recently got an Ender5 Pro. Initial prints have come pretty good, cubes are coming out square (maybe a little pointy on the corners)

but the biggest defect are some artefacts on Benchy’s hull.




Specifically, port side curves.

I’ve guessed it’s over extrusion, so I lowered the nozzle temp to just beyond the point that adhesion becomes an issue, calibrated my extruded steps. But it seems to persist.

Any advice into what to look at?

Are you using creality filament? I've found it's a blobby mess at any temperature.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Horse Clocks posted:

I recently got an Ender5 Pro. Initial prints have come pretty good, cubes are coming out square (maybe a little pointy on the corners)

but the biggest defect are some artefacts on Benchy’s hull.




Specifically, port side curves.

I’ve guessed it’s over extrusion, so I lowered the nozzle temp to just beyond the point that adhesion becomes an issue, calibrated my extruded steps. But it seems to persist.

Any advice into what to look at?

Make sure if you're using Cura it's not 4.7 which added some stuff that caused curves to jut out at points making bumpy spots all over the front of benchies. 4.8 seems to have mostly fixed it.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Maigius posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for an enclosure for a Prusa mini? It's currently sitting on a Jonaxel shelf from Ikea, if that helps.

Photo box or tiny popup greenhouse on Amazon?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Running into 2 things in the first print for the ender 3

I have an "err too far" message on the LCD, and I have some slipping on the extruder. Is the extruder the case of fixing the spring tension or what?

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

w00tmonger posted:

Running into 2 things in the first print for the ender 3

I have an "err too far" message on the LCD, and I have some slipping on the extruder. Is the extruder the case of fixing the spring tension or what?

Probably.

It can also mean you need to extrude hotter. Less likely include various clogging issues.

Zaffy
Sep 15, 2003


w00tmonger posted:

Running into 2 things in the first print for the ender 3

I have an "err too far" message on the LCD, and I have some slipping on the extruder. Is the extruder the case of fixing the spring tension or what?

Try adjusting the z-axis closer to home and then try to auto-home. Mine doesn't like it if my z-axis is too much, I'm sure there's an easy fix but I haven't bothered because I don't print things tall enough for it to be an issue.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Not seeing the error anymore and the clicking went away when I instead tried to print a test file on Cura.

I'll need to calibrate my esteps tomorrow then my xyZ are a smidge out likely. Not bad for a first print though



I do want to calibrate my e steps next then come back to xyz right?

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jan 9, 2021

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Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

XYZ don't need to be calibrated, as steps per mm for motion control is fixed. Inaccuracy in a cube is down to extrusion (and machine quality/mechanical problems).

Check esteps (the common test being marking filament at 120mm, extruding 100mm and measuring the remaining), and then dial in the slicer setting for flow/extrusion multiplier (common test being printing a cube with no infill/top and 1 or 2 walls, and checking the width of walls vs slicer setting). Lots of good guides around for both tests.



e: also don't sweat .05 mm, and don't even worry about .1 most of the time. Printers are accurate but it's still just squishing around molten plastic and tolerances are variable depending on orientation, temperature, cooling fan, overhang, etc.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Jan 9, 2021

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