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Hypnolobster posted:XYZ don't need to be calibrated, as steps per mm for motion control is fixed. Inaccuracy in a cube is down to extrusion (and machine quality/mechanical problems). Set up esteps (the common test of marking filament at 120mm, extruding 100mm and then checking of there's exactly 20mm remaining to the mark), and then print a single or double wall and check the extrusion width for setting flow. Is extrusion width going to amount to how level the bed is? Ie how squished that first layer is?
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Jan 9, 2021 06:17
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You caught me mid-edit and I said width instead of multiplier. Extrusion width is how much plastic the printer forces out for a single line. We're all normally using 0.4mm nozzles, and extrusion width (line width in Cura) for them is somewhere between 0.4-0.5. The test is printing a plain cube with no top or infill and one wall/perimeter. If you've got a 0.42mm extrusion width, a single wall should measure somewhere around 0.42-0.44ish. You adjust the results of the test by changing the extrusion multiplier (or flow in Cura) and then reprinting the test and checking again. You want to calibrate extruder steps first, and then check extrusion multiplier/flow.
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Jan 9, 2021 06:30
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Yeah, 20.05 is perfect for FDM. You will go mad trying to get rid of a literal hairs' width from molten plastic being forced through a tiny hole.
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Jan 9, 2021 06:44
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w00tmonger posted:Is extrusion width going to amount to how level the bed is? Ie how squished that first layer is? I wouldn't recommend measuring the first layer. Instead measure a single wall from something small printed in vase mode. You might be able to calibrate extrusion from a dead on first layer, small changes in the amount of squish will also affect extrusion width while also changing bed adhesion. Also most setups will have a thicker first layer which will further change the amount of extruded plastic. You could dial in extrusion on a wall, and then further work on dialing in the extrusion width of the first layer by adjusting squish and first layer thickness. Just don't compromise proper adhesion for a single layer.
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Jan 9, 2021 07:15
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w00tmonger posted:Not seeing the error anymore and the clicking went away when I instead tried to print a test file on Cura. This test file looks perfect (from the angles that are visible) and as noted .05mm is 100% within the expected variation for FDM so you should not change anything about the printer. Motor step figures are firmware settings, not G-code stuff. If you got a perfect print from a test file but the files you're slicing are causing extruder clicking, it's probably either that the extruder temperature is too low or the print speed is too high. Adjust either of those and test again.
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Jan 9, 2021 09:26
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armorer posted:Those are called "zits" in 3d printer parlance. Search for that and you'll find a variety of suggestions. cakesmith handyman posted:Are you using creality filament? I've found it's a blobby mess at any temperature. Rexxed posted:Make sure if you're using Cura it's not 4.7 which added some stuff that caused curves to jut out at points making bumpy spots all over the front of benchies. 4.8 seems to have mostly fixed it. And yes Guess I’m swapping some stuff out tonight
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Jan 9, 2021 10:42
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w00tmonger posted:Not seeing the error anymore and the clicking went away when I instead tried to print a test file on Cura. That is a drat fine XYZ cube, Nice job.
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Jan 9, 2021 15:18
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Sagebrush posted:This test file looks perfect (from the angles that are visible) and as noted .05mm is 100% within the expected variation for FDM so you should not change anything about the printer. Motor step figures are firmware settings, not G-code stuff. If you got a perfect print from a test file but the files you're slicing are causing extruder clicking, it's probably either that the extruder temperature is too low or the print speed is too high. Adjust either of those and test again. Couple others that. Aren't so great so I'll still dial it on a little bit on the esteps but not going to go crazy   All things considered this is substantially tighter than. My printebit back in the day
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Jan 9, 2021 16:45
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I hope this is the right place to post this here, among you printing masters. I posted a while ago about printing a phone holder to put this small phone on my wrist. I designed it, got a friend to print it off, and here come the problems. I was recommended to use TPU, and I can see why. It's a squeeze but the model I modified fits on it snugly. However the holes for the watch strap don't work, it's too flexible and they just pop out. The PLA model works perfectly with the watch, but it's far too small for the phone. I'd have to make it a lot bigger to fit the phone, and it would look bad (worse than it already does). I had an idea: I cut the PLA model and used industrial glue to stick the TPU holding the phone to the PLA base. That works for about half hour, but the base is too flexible and it just popped off in the end. Was wondering if any geniuses here had an idea of how to get his working so the phone will stay safe and secure on my wrist? Model modifications, better glue/material etc?   
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Jan 9, 2021 16:59
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Looks like TPU is soluble in acetone, you could chemically weld it to an ABS base (maybe ASA? I don't know if that's soluble in acetone as well). You could also edit your TPU design so it fits around the PLA part. You would then print the PLA rigid part first, then set your TPU print to pause at a certain layer. Put your PLA part inside there and resume the print as it prints the rest of the TPU part, thus encasing it.
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Jan 9, 2021 17:06
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Calibrated e steps. 2 cubes have popped off the bed since doing so. Did I good something?
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Jan 9, 2021 18:33
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What happens if you print TPU too fast? First time printing it and I forgot, as suggested here, to crank my speeds right down but so far it seems to be printing okay. It's a bowden-type printer, am I likely just to end up with some kind of hosed up extrusion problems, or it it just a probability thing and I might be alright? Tempted to just let it run to see what happens as long as it's unlikely to somehow explode and kill me, TBH.
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Jan 9, 2021 18:42
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goddamnedtwisto posted:What happens if you print TPU too fast? First time printing it and I forgot, as suggested here, to crank my speeds right down but so far it seems to be printing okay. It's a bowden-type printer, am I likely just to end up with some kind of hosed up extrusion problems, or it it just a probability thing and I might be alright? Tempted to just let it run to see what happens as long as it's unlikely to somehow explode and kill me, TBH. With a bowden printer it's more likely to have uh.. 'pushing rope' type problems in the bowden tube. If it's working, it means the hot end pressure is low enough that the flex in the filament isn't causing a problem and you're in good shape. TPU can be sort of sticky (in the same way PETG can) and lower speeds help with that too, but again if it's working, it's working.
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Jan 9, 2021 18:50
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Hypnolobster posted:With a bowden printer it's more likely to have uh.. 'pushing rope' type problems in the bowden tube. If it's working, it means the hot end pressure is low enough that the flex in the filament isn't causing a problem and you're in good shape. TPU can be sort of sticky (in the same way PETG can) and lower speeds help with that too, but again if it's working, it's working. Turns out I'd also forgotten to turn down the nozzle temp too which probably explains that (and also why it's a horrible spiderwebby mess on the outside but this is very much a not-for-display part so we'll see how it goes).
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Jan 9, 2021 18:56
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrated e steps. 2 cubes have popped off the bed since doing so. Did I good something? Bed adhesion is a combination of how much plastic, and how close it is to the bed. Changing esteps changes how much plastic is extruded. I'm guessing that you reduced it and that the nozzle needs to be closer to the bed now. It's also possible that you just touched the bed a bunch while messing with the extruder, and it just needs to be cleaned.
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Jan 9, 2021 19:06
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrated e steps. 2 cubes have popped off the bed since doing so. Did I good something? Your cubes were only off by 0.2mm (1%) and honestly I don't think you should have messed with it. Extruder steps should be calibrated based on how much filament is actually advanced by the drive gear; extrude 100mm and if the filament moves 100mm you're done. If your parts are still over- or under-extruded after calibrating it that way, it's more likely something like: - nozzle is worn and creating misshapen traces - filament diameter is not accurately set - filament has absorbed water and needs to be dried - clog somewhere in the system - slop in mechanical system - cooling is not good enough - plastic is just shrinking or shifting as it settles If you find that your model is consistently sized wrong in some axis, you can scale your design in the slicer to compensate. That's not uncommon at all in industry; many materials warp or shrink or otherwise change shape after forming, and you need to compensate for that change beforehand. A very dramatic example is how certain types of printed metal parts look before and after sintering:  The point is that it's consistent. I am much less worried about a printer that consistently undersizes by 2% in Z than one that is anywhere between -1% and +1%. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jan 9, 2021 |
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Jan 9, 2021 19:29
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Man, getting a new mechanical part right on the first try is so satisfying.
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Jan 9, 2021 19:30
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Sagebrush posted:Your cubes were only off by 0.2mm (1%) and honestly I don't think you should have messed with it. Extruder steps should be calibrated based on how much filament is actually advanced by the drive gear; extrude 100mm and if the filament moves 100mm you're done. If your parts are still over- or under-extruded after calibrating it that way, it's more likely something like: Dialed it in this morning and now I'm at 100mm exactly. Previously was shooting out like 93 for every 100mm I told it. I think I just greased up the bed and gave myself poor adhesion. Iso'd the bed and we'll see if I just made a bunch of spaghetti when I get back from a walk w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jan 9, 2021 |
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Jan 9, 2021 19:44
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SEKCobra posted:Man, getting a new mechanical part right on the first try is so satisfying.  Having it just go where it should and just work is 
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Jan 9, 2021 19:46
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NewFatMike posted:Looks like TPU is soluble in acetone, you could chemically weld it to an ABS base (maybe ASA? I don't know if that's soluble in acetone as well). Good ideas, I will see what I can do!
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Jan 9, 2021 20:52
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 Mostly finished a more permanent version of my enclosure, and it's easily hitting 40c chamber temps with the bed at 90c, and that's with the bottom still open and the gaps at the steppers still pretty enormous. It's just coroplast (polypropylene) sheet, which fits inside the extrusions nicely. I'm using PET corner protecters as the plastic angle, and ABS box rivets for connectors. Super cheap, should perform well and I was able to build it in my apartment (because my shop is elsewhere and I'm not dragging a gigantic printer to my shop). Should easily handle 80c chamber temperatures, which is really awesome considering the price compared to polycarb (and how lame acrylic is in terms of temp).
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Jan 9, 2021 21:31
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After replacing my bed thermistor, adding new bed springs, and switching from Cura to Prusa, I was having a hard time calibrating my printer. Tried backup nozzle, checking for clogs, leveling the bed within 0.05mm, different slicer profiles, extrusion multiplier and esteps. Nothing worked Until I cleaned the extruder gear.  Still not perfect, but what a difference spending 4 seconds brushing the gear can make.
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Jan 9, 2021 21:34
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Hypnolobster posted:
Nice. I kinda still want to do that on mine, but I need to find a replacemtn for my Zesty first, as I would otherwise have to make it excessively tall. I am working on an Orbiter/Copperhead combo, but I still got a fair amount of design work to do + it would take my printer down for at least a week.
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Jan 9, 2021 22:00
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Things are working perfectly on the ender3 except I have a bit of extruder slipping occasionally (seemingly more the beginning of the print?). I haven't tested flow at this point by measuring the walls, but would modifying things help there? I've messed with the tensioning on the extruder spring but that hasn't seemed to affect things. Print pla at 205. Turned up my esteps to hit calibration too
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Jan 10, 2021 04:50
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turn temperature up. Try 215-220ish.
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Jan 10, 2021 04:57
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ImplicitAssembler posted:turn temperature up. Try 215-220ish. Is that getting pretty hot though?
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Jan 10, 2021 05:01
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For some stupid reason the screws that hold my hot end to the carriage come loose every few months. I'll probably just replace the screws and see what happens, but is this a known thing that there's a fix for?
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Jan 10, 2021 05:06
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Well, it's what I typically print PLA at, but it'll vary from on nozzle type, how accurate the thermistor is, etc. (And the PLA I use has a recommended range from 200-230) Skipping extruder can be a sign of printing at too low temperature. If you've already tightened the tensioning on the extruder, increasing the temperature would be my next step. If you want to be more dilligent about, increase in steps of 5C, extrude out 100mm at 20mm/s and see how it behaves. Try it with and without part cooling fan too.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:07
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:For some stupid reason the screws that hold my hot end to the carriage come loose every few months. I'll probably just replace the screws and see what happens, but is this a known thing that there's a fix for? Try some blue loctite?
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Jan 10, 2021 05:17
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Anyone know the magic settings to get PSU Control on Octoprint to not turn off the relay when it's first powered on? My Pi is powered from my mainboard, so if it automatically cuts power to the PSU on the PI startup, it's cutting power to itself. I can get PSU control to switch the relay on/off just fine, it's just the issue is that when I first flip the PSU on, the relay is on, but then after Octoprint finishes loading, it cuts the relay to off. Luckily I haven't actually wired the PSU to the relay yet, so I can mess with it without constantly having the PI shut down. The Relay is wired up exactly like this guide has: https://www.instructables.com/PSU-Control-With-Octoprint/
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Jan 10, 2021 05:28
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w00tmonger posted:Things are working perfectly on the ender3 except I have a bit of extruder slipping occasionally (seemingly more the beginning of the print?). It could. If a single wall is too thick it's a sign the extrusion multiplier in the slicer is set too high. If extrusion multiplier (flow rate in cura) is too high the resulting backpressure can cause skipped steps. It's easiest to notice early in a print because the solid layers don't allow for overflow, building pressure instead. You want to measure a single wall because you're interested in how much over (or under)flow there is. Or your combination of temp sensor, main board, nozzle, and filament just needs to be set hotter.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:52
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w00tmonger posted:Is that getting pretty hot though? I print PLA at 210 generally. A lot of the recommendations that you hear for like 185 are based on older blends from the early days of desktop printing, and early printers that ran a lot more slowly than they do now. Higher temperatures potentially give you more stringing and reduced overhang performance. Lower temperatures potentially give you extruder jams/stripping and weaker interlayer fusion. Personally I prefer a strong part with good extrusion performance and a few strings to remove to one that gums up the machine and falls apart.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:59
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i am new to 3d printing. I bought a cr-6se about a month ago and everything is working great. I have used about 3 1kg rolls so far without much issue. My prints are fine but i want to try something better than the bottom dollar chinese filaments i have been buying on amazon. Can someone recommend a black or grey PLA that is good value? Prints better than average but isnt $30+ a roll? Sunlu is the cheapo brand i have gotten the best results from so far, but im curious what other value brands are out there worth checking out I also switched from cura to prusaslicer recently and i really like the amount of control it gives. The one thing i miss is the vertical line that cura prints on the left before it starts printing the skirt. As i have it now with prusaslicer the nozzle oozes while i wait for it to heat up. If i dont pull off that oozed filament with tweezers before it starts the skirt it will often mess up on the first layer. That line on the y axis would always clear that oozed filament that stuck around the nozzle. What is the pre-print g-code i can add to make it print that line? Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 06:28
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What are the smallest screws you can reasonably get and where? I'm trying to print a scale model and ideally I'd just use scaled down fasteners as well, otherwise I'd have to adjust all the holes and that's a pain in the rear end and not even always possible without major redesign. I've seen M0.5 on McMaster but they're don't exist here and most everyone else seems to only go down to like M1.6 or M1.4 at best. Even my usual friends at Aliexpress don't seem so helpful, e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb201603_
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Jan 10, 2021 10:17
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Fauxtool posted:i am new to 3d printing. I bought a cr-6se about a month ago and everything is working great. I have used about 3 1kg rolls so far without much issue. My prints are fine but i want to try something better than the bottom dollar chinese filaments i have been buying on amazon. Can someone recommend a black or grey PLA that is good value? Prints better than average but isnt $30+ a roll? I've tried about 4 brands so far and this has been my favorite by a mile. -- I just got my Anycubic Photon Mono resin printer. After a couple successful test prints my last one came out just literally random insane shapes completely unrelated to what I tried to print. It was the first time I used Chitubox instead of the Photon slicer - are they not compatible? Chitubox lets me save the file in Photon's format so I assumed it was alright.
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Jan 10, 2021 10:29
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Fauxtool posted:I also switched from cura to prusaslicer recently and i really like the amount of control it gives. The one thing i miss is the vertical line that cura prints on the left before it starts printing the skirt. As i have it now with prusaslicer the nozzle oozes while i wait for it to heat up. If i dont pull off that oozed filament with tweezers before it starts the skirt it will often mess up on the first layer. That line on the y axis would always clear that oozed filament that stuck around the nozzle. What is the pre-print g-code i can add to make it print that line? In Cura that's the Start G-code for the machine in Printer Settings -> Machine Settings. The same setting is available in PrusaSlicer in Printer Settings as Starting G-Code. You can copy the Cura gcode and paste it into prusaslicer if you want the same starting behavior. You could even edit it to do whatever else you want with gcode at the start of any print. You do need to be a little careful. For example, one thing I found trying to customize the end gcode on my maker select is that there's gcode to set relative positioning vs. global positioning. I wanted the nozzle to raise 10mm and then the bed to move forward. To my surprise once the benchy I was printing finished, the printer attempted to move the hotend down to 10mm above 0 on the Z axis, smashing its way into the top of the benchy with the hot nozzle. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 11:21
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mobby_6kl posted:What are the smallest screws you can reasonably get and where? I'm trying to print a scale model and ideally I'd just use scaled down fasteners as well, otherwise I'd have to adjust all the holes and that's a pain in the rear end and not even always possible without major redesign. I got some M1 through 1.6 kit on amazon sold as watch/eyeglasses repair screws: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0711899NW/ There's some larger kits that go down to M1 like this one, but I don't know about getting a larger assortment of anything smaller besides just looking for related items: https://smile.amazon.com/Mini-Skater-Eyeglass-Spectacles-Assortment/dp/B07DCJ9L3Y/
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Jan 10, 2021 11:27
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Class Warcraft posted:I've tried about 4 brands so far and this has been my favorite by a mile. Rexxed posted:I got some M1 through 1.6 kit on amazon sold as watch/eyeglasses repair screws:
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Jan 10, 2021 12:00
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mobby_6kl posted:Chitubo works well for my regular Photon. Are you selecting the right format in the save dialog? Also check the sliced layers individually, sometimes it goes nuts and makes all sorts of weird poo poo. If your doing a scale model I'd be looking into pinning instead of screws. Drill in a tiny holy then cut up paperclips to bridge the 2 parts. Dab of super glue, insert the pin, and your good to go
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Jan 10, 2021 16:13
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mobby_6kl posted:What are the smallest screws you can reasonably get and where? I'm trying to print a scale model and ideally I'd just use scaled down fasteners as well, otherwise I'd have to adjust all the holes and that's a pain in the rear end and not even always possible without major redesign. Maybe MicroMark? They have all sorts of cool stuff like that.
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Jan 10, 2021 17:24
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