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Lord Ludikrous posted:Thanks, originally there wasn’t going to be so much gold. However there’s no non-contrast equivalent for my main colour, and despite trying a number of methods people tout on the internet about getting contrast to look good on large flat surfaces I wasn’t at all happy with the result. I ended up hiding it with more going and some weathering, and ultimately it looks consistent with my Land Raider. Looks great man. I really need to stop dragging rear end on the helturkey I'm working on to move onto the tanks. I've got been using Kantor blue which is a much darker blue. I am also going to mud up my tracks as well.
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Jan 11, 2021 17:14
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 Working on this power sword technique. Not super happy with how this came out but it's not a bad first try!!
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Jan 11, 2021 21:12
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Verisimilidude posted:
If you're not super happy with it then I dunno what to tell you buddy, cus you should be.
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Jan 11, 2021 22:29
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Verisimilidude posted:
Uhh, this is excellent work..
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Jan 11, 2021 22:50
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Verisimilidude posted:
I get if it’s not the effect you were going for, but you should know that this looks super-cool.
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Jan 11, 2021 23:08
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Thanks! Also, oil washes are literally magic   I wanted to add some contrast to the white armor on the first model so I found these oil paints in my closet, mixed up a blue grey and some mineral spirits, and painted it on the armor. On a small area at first to not completely destroy the model, but after wiping it away with a cue tip and some mineral spirits I immediately slathered it all over the armor. It's stupid easy, literally everyone should be doing this. For comparison here are both models before the washes  
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Jan 12, 2021 00:15
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Yeah, oil and enamel washes blow regular washes out of the water. Basically impossible to make a mistake with them too, absolute worst case you can pull virtually all of it except an almost imperceptible filter off with mineral spirits. Just make sure you don't carry over acrylic habits like licking your brush.
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Jan 12, 2021 01:31
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With the exception of the transfers for the shoulder and shield, I'd say this guy is done!  
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Jan 12, 2021 01:52
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That is the world's saddest necron. And a really awesome paint job.
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Jan 12, 2021 03:20
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That looks really, really good!! I bought the recruit box, plus a few new paints for the necrons. I’m pretty excited to get it all!
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Jan 12, 2021 03:27
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A while ago someone posted a dope marble/jade method for terrain - anyone got a link?
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Jan 12, 2021 04:57
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Those White Scars are so choice man, never stop painting/posting! Personally continuing with the Mutant Brotherhood models, I finished a Sabretooth.  
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Jan 12, 2021 05:45
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Finished my Halfling Blood bowl team last night. They where really fun to paint. Can't wait to get a chance to play with them.     
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Jan 12, 2021 11:15
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mccnaol posted:Finished my Halfling Blood bowl team last night. They where really fun to paint. Can't wait to get a chance to play with them. please tell me the pastie and sandwiches come with them standard and aren't third party or something
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Jan 12, 2021 11:30
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Big Willy Style posted:please tell me the pastie and sandwiches come with them standard and aren't third party or something They come as standard. They are their game balls 😂
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Jan 12, 2021 12:38
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After nearly an entire year, I have got 2/5 of my Field of Glory Napoleonic Anglo-Portuguese 1811 army based. I still need to do add grass tuffs and the ever important flags (that will break off  )Apart from 1 battalion of Portuguese Line Infantry I did myself (AB Eureka Figures) (which I hope to never attempt again) the rest are painted figures from https://www.stonewallfigures.co.uk. They are washed in Citadel Nuln Oil...that I feel was a mistake. I should have used Agrash Earthshade or shades in the majority colour I think. Too late now. I have dry brushed the bases with Citadel Dry Hexos Palesun. The base is Army Painter Basing: Brown Battleground (though it looks more grey to me). (More pictures and background and previous battles are at MY BLOG     I have ordered the rest of the army from Stonewall figures, but they won't arrive before my FIRST FOGN TOURNAMENT this weekend. Most of the army will be borrowed and will far outclass my own figures.
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Jan 12, 2021 12:47
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I recently picked up a Badger Patriot 105. It's my first airbrush and, as recommended in the OP, I'm trying to get the hang of it by sticking to priming. Unfortunately I've already hit a roadblock: the primer I picked up (a set of Badger Stynylrez bottles) seems to clog the airbrush at random. Sometimes it'll come out just fine, other times it'll come out in spurts, and occasionally it doesn't spray at all until I pull the trigger all the way back, at which point it blasts out and forms a puddle on whatever I'm spraying. At first I thought this might be a psi issue; I definitely had it set too high when I tried it out for the first time, but even after dropping it to ~20psi (the bottle recommends 20-30) I was still experiencing the same problem. I took the airbrush apart and cleaned it several times, also to no avail. The bottle says the primer doesn't need to be thinned, but would it help? And if so, would I thin it with water or airbrush thinner? Is there something else I should be doing?
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Jan 12, 2021 13:53
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quote != edit
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Jan 12, 2021 13:53
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Communist Walrus posted:I recently picked up a Badger Patriot 105. It's my first airbrush and, as recommended in the OP, I'm trying to get the hang of it by sticking to priming. Unfortunately I've already hit a roadblock: the primer I picked up (a set of Badger Stynylrez bottles) seems to clog the airbrush at random. Sometimes it'll come out just fine, other times it'll come out in spurts, and occasionally it doesn't spray at all until I pull the trigger all the way back, at which point it blasts out and forms a puddle on whatever I'm spraying. I have the same problems using the same primer. Use airbrush thinner and make sure to clean your brush thoroughly once you’re done using it, the primer seems to leave a lot of hardened residue that could easily cause a clog. Alternatively, use a different airbrush primer! I may switch from stynlrez because it dries really matte and the clogging issues, and I hear Vallejo airbrush primer works better in this regard.
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Jan 12, 2021 14:03
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Yea just splash in a tiny bit of flow improver / thinner with your primer. I think I usually shoot it around 25-30 PSI without issue. And yes, absolutely give it a thorough cleaning after a priming session. That poo poo will cake on there good if you leave any behind (not the end of the world, just a pain to clean off)
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Jan 12, 2021 14:14
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some buildup happens if you stop blowing air as soon as you stop blowing paint. make sure to push the trigger forward so only air is coming out, let that blow for a few seconds, and then release to stop airflow too. maybe you're already doing this, idk
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Jan 12, 2021 14:17
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Thanks all. I'll try thinning it a bit and giving it another go, and will be sure to ease off the trigger.
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Jan 12, 2021 14:45
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Also it's winter in the northern hemisphere and Badger primer irreversibly precipitates and clumps up at freezing temperatures (I believe there's a warning on the Amazon page for this).
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Jan 12, 2021 18:22
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Repost from the MCP thread (and we need more superheroes in here lol): House of X scheme mutants (or as close as I could emulate):   Enchantress and Angela: 
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Jan 12, 2021 19:02
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attempt 2 at this power sword technique the hardest part of this is the masking, and the longest part is cleaning out the airbrush between colors which you need to do 7 times (white, clean, light blue, clean, blue, clean, dark blue, clean, light blue, clean, blue, clean, dark blue, clean) Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 20:09
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Verisimilidude posted:attempt 2 at this power sword technique How did you manage to keep the shadows and highlights on the letters themselves instead of filling it all in? Just a matter of spraying at the right angle?
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Jan 12, 2021 20:56
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:How did you manage to keep the shadows and highlights on the letters themselves instead of filling it all in? Just a matter of spraying at the right angle? Yeah I made sure to spray from the same direction, so the shadows are naturally occurring
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Jan 12, 2021 21:02
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I don't use many Citadel products but I'm willing to state definitively that Sycorax Bronze is GW shittiest paint. Absolutely miserable.
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Jan 12, 2021 21:26
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Communist Walrus posted:I don't use many Citadel products but I'm willing to state definitively that Sycorax Bronze is GW shittiest paint. Absolutely miserable. Are you using it over a base paint? It's too thin to really use on its own. On top of something like Balthasar Gold it works fine.
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Jan 12, 2021 21:32
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Winklebottom posted:Are you using it over a base paint? It's too thin to really use on its own. On top of something like Balthasar Gold it works fine. Sir, do not stick up for this paint and its low moral character. But yes, I am, just not over Balthasar Gold. It seems to have two states: too goopy with crappy coverage, or too thin with crappy coverage.
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Jan 12, 2021 21:45
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Communist Walrus posted:I don't use many Citadel products but I'm willing to state definitively that Sycorax Bronze is GW shittiest paint. Absolutely miserable. Have you tried Magos Purple from the Contrast range? Its basically contrast medium that once glanced at bottle of purple wash. loving briefly glanced.
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Jan 12, 2021 22:41
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I use Sycorax Bronze all the time, out of necessity (Vallejo paints are nearly impossible to find out here). For best results, I start with a dark brown (Dryad Bark or Rhynox Hide are my go to but I find it doesn't matter too much. Rhynox Hide is slightly warmer but the difference in color is pretty negligible), then do a coat of Balthazar Gold which is a deep copper. With a good coverage brown basecoat, balthazar gold is pretty usable. Then I use Sycorax Bronze as a highlight color. I also added a couple of stainless steel nail polish agitator beads to the balthazar/sycorax pots (now dropper bottles) to encourage them to play nicely. Edit: I'm an awful painter but I think it comes out looking pretty ok! 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 22:55
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Yeah my Sycorax Bronze turned lumpy way too fast after buying it. It works but it's consistency is kinda weird now. Might need to try to thin it out a little to make it runny again. Also the agitators I have that my brother gave me weren't apparently stainless steel because now I have stains on the bottom of all my paint pots. 
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Jan 12, 2021 23:13
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There's a really good recipe for bronze that has you mix Fyreslayer Flesh contrast paint with a silver metallic. Vince uses Vallejo metal colour silver/aluminum, but I imagine a citadel metallic would work as well. The nice thing is you can shade with more Fyreslayer Flesh and highlight by adding more silver, and it looks really nice. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYvYAekaR2Q&t=246s Dreylad fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 23:47
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Contrast snakebite leather over silver makes a great gold, I'll have to try it with Fyreslayer.
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Jan 13, 2021 00:25
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  wip on this guy. He's a blast to paint, though I'm not a big fan of the mask. edit: and the finished product (until my forgeworld transfers show up) 
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 02:49
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I remember the original bronze GW paint also used to do the clumping bullshit, good to see things haven't changed that much. Holy gently caress those powerswords are so loving good.
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Jan 13, 2021 04:33
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SiKboy posted:Have you tried Magos Purple from the Contrast range? Its basically contrast medium that once glanced at bottle of purple wash. loving briefly glanced. I have to agree with you. I made the mistake of deciding to use magos purple in my thousand sons army for some of the robes and Daemon Prince wings. It is the only contrast paint I've HAD to use multiple coats on. It is the Fresca of contrast paints. And I say they as someone who got into the hobby right after contrast paints and love them.
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Jan 13, 2021 15:05
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Funny, just last week I was like, "I want to experiment with a Slaneesh kinda purple-and-cream scheme for my Death Guard", primed one of my bois and blasted it with Magos and it looked pretty crappy. Hit it with a second layer and it still just looks like a weird purple wash. gently caress Fresca Gonna just re-prime it and airbrush some Vallejo Hexen Lichen instead and see how that comes out.
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Jan 13, 2021 15:12
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Sab669 posted:Funny, just last week I was like, "I want to experiment with a Slaneesh kinda purple-and-cream scheme for my Death Guard", primed one of my bois and blasted it with Magos and it looked pretty crappy. Hit it with a second layer and it still just looks like a weird purple wash. gently caress Fresca I use it to cut the really dark purple contrast paint. Shyish or whatever.
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Jan 13, 2021 15:53
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