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Meow Meow Meow posted:My combo unit arrive this week, got it all cleaned up and waxed. Change-over is super easy and the carbide insert head looks very nice. Runs very quiet as well. I was pleased to see that the outfeed roller for the planer is rubber, my old stationary planer's was ribbed metal and would leave little marks on the wood. I have not run a piece of wood over as the dust collector I ordered will be here at the end of the month so Im trying to wait to avoid covering my shop in a fine layer of dust...we'll see how that goes. Also, the straightedge I ordered is back-ordered till next week so I can't check or align anything on it yet. Some pics for those interested... You can test the jointer function with no dust collector just fine. Do it! Report Back! (I'm scared of budget j/p combos due to reading nightmare reviews)
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Jan 9, 2021 06:08
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What is that glorious thing??
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Jan 9, 2021 07:20
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GEMorris posted:You can test the jointer function with no dust collector just fine. Do it! Report Back! (I'm scared of budget j/p combos due to reading nightmare reviews) I have the Erbauer combo jointer/planer as that seems to be the best reviewed 'budget' one in the UK. Setup was awkward but it was fairly painless, however getting the fence square to the bed was a trial in frustration just due to how its mounted. It was very difficult to make small adjustments without it just dropping away completely back to its max angle of 45 degrees. (Which is actually only 43 degrees, so don't use the angled fence on the Erbauer jointer). Swapping them over isn't a problem since its the natural part of the workflow. You joint all your faces, then you plane the stock. However when it becomes a real rear end is if you suddenly have to do a replacement and the time it takes to change between modes is 10 times longer than the time you spend running the machine. The dust collection always seems to get blocked up too, particularly when planing. Maybe I just dont have powerful enough suction.
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Jan 9, 2021 10:30
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Super Waffle posted:What is that glorious thing?? Its a Jointer. It makes identical flat surfaces so you can glue two pieces of wood together
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Jan 9, 2021 14:40
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Are any of the combo machines available in the US worth a drat? I love my dewalt lunchbox planer but I don't have a powered jointer and I need one.
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Jan 9, 2021 15:31
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The Grizzly/Jet/Rikon combos are all generally reviewed to be good capable machines. The step up from that is Hammer, and above that is SCMI/Minimax and Felder (Hammer is Felder's budget line). The 10" combo machines are notoriously lightweight and should be avoided aside from the INCA, which is also questionable as that machine is a bit finicky due to its drive system. (Fwiw I used to own an INCA 550 and now own a DeWalt 735 and no jointer)
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Jan 9, 2021 16:02
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NomNomNom posted:Are any of the combo machines available in the US worth a drat? I love my dewalt lunchbox planer but I don't have a powered jointer and I need one. The Grizzly one looks very similar to what Meow Meow Meow got. Felder/Hammer/Minimax all also make some higher end ones, but I have no personal experience with any of them. I used to be pretty skeptical of combo machines because the changeover seemed like a pain and I'm very used to having two separate machines, but I think for a small space and working on furniture scale stuff they really are a good solution. Aside from the changeover and cost, the main drawback is that the jointers usually have fairly short beds, but for most furniture you don't need perfect 8' long edge joints and so that's not really a problem. I'd rather have a wide jointer than a long one. If I suddenly had to be in a much smaller shop, I think a combo machine would be in the cards. Jointer/Planer + bandsaw + drill press would be a good complement to mostly using hand tools.
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Jan 9, 2021 16:03
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Rutibex posted:Its a Jointer. It makes identical flat surfaces so you can glue two pieces of wood together Never seen a jointer like that. You all say its a combo jointer/planer? Is that a thing? I feel so out of the loop 
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Jan 9, 2021 18:26
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GEMorris posted:The Grizzly/Jet/Rikon combos are all generally reviewed to be good capable machines. The step up from that is Hammer, and above that is SCMI/Minimax and Felder (Hammer is Felder's budget line). So what's your process when preparing rough stock with out a jointer? Hand plane one side flat to remove twist or cup, then send through the planer? I have some wide ash that has a good cup/twist that the planer doesn't deal with well, even trying to take the lightest passes.
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Jan 9, 2021 18:31
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Gentlegoons, lend me your knowledge. I stumbled across a craigslist ad for a combo sander and a 3h 220v dust collector (the 2 can variety). https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/w1676_m.pdf Sander http://www.kufogroup.com/Pictures/Manuals/DUST%20COLLECTOR%20UFO-102B.pdf Collector. This, but an older version of this model, grizzly green and very used. My question revolves around the dust collector, primarily how to modify it into a more compact format and 2-stage the sumbitch. Since it's 3hp, would it push more airflow than my current can could hold? It's a 30gal garbage can with this cyclone lid. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...HRoCXDsQAvD_BwE I've eyeballed some of the DIY setups on youtube, but those seem to use 1 or 2 hp units and seem to be made pretty tall. I've got low (think 7ft) ceilings in my basement shop and gently caress-all space (hence trying to get rid of the dual can footprint). They also output into a single bag, so I'm concerned about bypassing the cyclone or blowing the stupid lid off. I'm not against upgrading to a proper Oneida cyclone and strapping the lid down, but would prefer some feedback first. I know this mayyyy be a fool's errand and I simply took too big a bite, but appreciate some input. In the worst-case scenario, this will power my future dust collection system, once I can move into a proper shop. Whaddya think?
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Jan 9, 2021 19:14
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Super Waffle posted:Never seen a jointer like that. You all say its a combo jointer/planer? Is that a thing? I feel so out of the loop Yeah it's a thing. It uses the same cutterhead for joining and planing. With the top tables down, it's a jointer, with the jointer tables raised, you can use the table below the cutterhead as a planer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2lBy7sW8zY
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Jan 9, 2021 21:54
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NomNomNom posted:So what's your process when preparing rough stock with out a jointer? Hand plane one side flat to remove twist or cup, then send through the planer? That's about your best and only solution, but using a straightedge on diagonals, you should be able to flatten it with a decent plane in, hell, 15 minutes?
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Jan 9, 2021 23:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah it's a thing. It uses the same cutterhead for joining and planing. With the top tables down, it's a jointer, with the jointer tables raised, you can use the table below the cutterhead as a planer. drat, that's slick! Gonna add that Jet to my imaginary dream shop tool list.
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Jan 9, 2021 23:24
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NomNomNom posted:So what's your process when preparing rough stock with out a jointer? Hand plane one side flat to remove twist or cup, then send through the planer? Yes, also you only need it flat, not smooth, so the process is fore plane to try plane to lunchbox planer, or if it isn't that bad, then skip the fore plane and just touch it up with the try plane. Once you plane the opposing side in the planer, you can flip the board and use the planer to make the surface smooth.
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Jan 10, 2021 03:42
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Super Waffle posted:drat, that's slick! Gonna add that Jet to my imaginary dream shop tool list. The only caveat to the combo units as already mentioned is the jointer is often not big enough to do large items accurately, and the planer bed is also often not as wide as a dedicated planer would be. I get on fairly well with mine but in retrospect I would have been better off getting a bigger planer and a dedicated jointer, but space is a constraint right now so I will make do.
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Jan 10, 2021 10:23
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MY table saw (Charnwood w625) does not have the slots to build any of the cross cut sleds that I have managed to find free plans for.  Does anyone have a link to a tutorial that will work for mine?
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Jan 10, 2021 11:14
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You won't find one I'm afraid as most cross cut sleds are designed to use the mitre slots that 99.9% of table saws have. The model you have is a ripping saw that isn't really designed to do what you want it to do, however you could probably modify a design. I would make a sled that completely covers the table top and then add runners on the side to 'lock' it to the table and still enable you to push it backwards and forwards. The design of the sled would then be exactly the same on the top as to what the youtube videos all make.
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Jan 10, 2021 11:20
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Is the DeWalt 745 saw (10 inch table saw) the go-to for smaller saws? I used to have a big Grizzly cabinet saw, but had to get rid of it. I do smaller projects so a smaller saw is fine, more concerned about accuracy.
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Jan 10, 2021 15:53
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Vier posted:Does anyone have a link to a tutorial that will work for mine? Steve Ramsey's crosscut sled build is designed around this problem since you fit the rails independently to the table and then attach them. I think it should work for you. https://youtu.be/0UQaEpTZG-o
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Jan 10, 2021 16:47
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Sylink posted:Is the DeWalt 745 saw (10 inch table saw) the go-to for smaller saws? I used to have a big Grizzly cabinet saw, but had to get rid of it.
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Jan 10, 2021 17:58
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Gentlegoons, lend me your knowledge. I think I'm going to go the "Mount to a wall, get canister filter, hook the sumbitch up, see what happens, adjust as necessary" approach. I start reading the math behind airflow calculations and my eyes glaze over.
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Jan 10, 2021 18:59
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Leperflesh posted:I think there's a chance you have a franken-plane, e.g. not all the parts match. Maybe someone replaced a screw with another screw that is too short or the wrong geometry? Also it may be a stanley/bailey plane even if there are no Stanley markings in the cast iron: use these sites for guidance. Thanks for the links, I might have narrowed it down a bit. The iron itself is most likely a Stanley type 6 because of the "STANLEY PAT APL 19, 92". The rest of the parts I'm less sure about, but based on this link I think it's an Ohio Tool Company model based on this link. The evidence I have is the model number style and position, the shape of the frog, the twisted one piece adjustment lever, and a very slight maroon color that might be a remnant of the original red paint.    As for my original issue, I have the chip breaker as tight to to the iron as it will go, and I get the lever cap plenty tight as well. I'm not convinced the frog is the original either, it doesn't seem to sit right on the bed as seen in the last picture. I've got it shifted all the way forward and there's still a pretty good sized gap to the throat.   edit: oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 22:37
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Had too much wood so I got some more wood to build a wooden thing to hold the other wood, so that now I can get even more wood.
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Jan 11, 2021 02:02
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Dickshelf update. Just moved into finishing. Sanded the epoxy to 2000 and buffed red before putting on the blo. Will update when it's totally finished. I think it looks good! Thanks for the input all
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Jan 11, 2021 23:45
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Haha it does look like a dick
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Jan 12, 2021 00:01
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I tried staining this cedar box I made and it didn’t come out very good! Any ideas of why this happened (mostly the edges of the lid planks not taking the stain at all)? I did sand to 320 grit and use conditioner prior to application. I’m guessing my best bet to save this piece would be to just paint it. Can you paint over stain? 
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 00:35
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Bouillon Rube posted:I tried staining this cedar box I made and it didn’t come out very good! Any ideas of why this happened (mostly the edges of the lid planks not taking the stain at all)? I did sand to 320 grit and use conditioner prior to application. It looks like you didn't get all the glue off. There are still some planer marks (the lines going across the boards) that make me think it didn't get sanded enough. It's hard to really sand stuff flat with an orbital sander. You can sand the stain off-do that with some funky old coarse (60 or 80 grit) paper because the stain is going to clog it up pretty fast and trash the paper. Then start sanding again with 80 grit, then 100, 120, 150 or 220. Don't skip grits-it makes more work in the end. With the 80, really focus on the areas around the glue joints where the stain didn't take. If you sand wood too finely it take pigment stain well-150 or 220 is plenty fine until you start putting on finish.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:51
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Thanks for the links, I might have narrowed it down a bit. Thanks for uploading pics! I agree that your frog doesn't match the plane. the frog is also damaged - you can see how on the right side (on the left in the quoted photo) doesn't have the same machined surface as on the left side, because it's been broken out. You could fix the problem of the screws securing the frog bottoming out by cutting off a bit at the end of the screws (or buying shorter screws) or by stacking more washers (see below), but that would not fix the bigger problem of the frog sitting too far back from the mouth in the sole. It might be that those washers aren't original and by removing them you might get a bit more forward travel with the iron, enough for it to position properly in the mouth. I've seen one washer but never two stacked, which suggests to me that the previous owner was trying to deal with the same issue of the screws being "too long" by adding washers, which may in turn be forcing the frog too far back. Might just be a trick of the camera but it looks to me like one set of washers is larger than the other in diameter, too, which is causing the frog to sit at an angle in your pic? At the bare minimum, try swapping out equally sized washers that are no larger than needed to give secure even pressure on the frog. But honestly I think the real problem is just as you said: this frog doesn't match this plane sole, even if it's the same basic design. There should be plenty enough travel in the frog slots to allow the iron to sit anywhere in the mouth, not just barely maybe clear the back of it. The screws should fit properly and secure down snug ant tight with just one washer. And the frog should have support for the iron on both sides of the screw holes, not just one. I'm sorry, this is a rough start to plane restoration. eBay has parts for sale, you might be able to find a matching frog; or you could just keep this "plane" as a source of parts for other planes and not try to recover it. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 01:10
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It looks like you didn't get all the glue off. There are still some planer marks (the lines going across the boards) that make me think it didn't get sanded enough. It's hard to really sand stuff flat with an orbital sander. You can sand the stain off-do that with some funky old coarse (60 or 80 grit) paper because the stain is going to clog it up pretty fast and trash the paper. Then start sanding again with 80 grit, then 100, 120, 150 or 220. Don't skip grits-it makes more work in the end. With the 80, really focus on the areas around the glue joints where the stain didn't take. If you sand wood too finely it take pigment stain well-150 or 220 is plenty fine until you start putting on finish. Can you really sand penetrating stain off though? I thought it went pretty deep into the wood.
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Jan 12, 2021 01:48
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I made a picture frame sled to enter into the wild world of framing photos and art. Based it on design ideas from Make Something and Michael Alm (and probably others). Added my own twist with the locking stop block. Getting nice tight miters, but getting some bad tearout on the inside edge where the blade exits. Using my good crosscut blade too.   Obviously a backer piece would be ideal, but I can't think of a way to add one that preserves the ability of the rabbet to ride on the square. NomNomNom fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 02:26
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I built another thing: https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1348804386504511496?s=20
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Jan 12, 2021 02:31
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Bouillon Rube posted:Can you really sand penetrating stain off though? I thought it went pretty deep into the wood. It doesn't usually go as deep as it seems. Dyes will penetrate a bit, but the pigment that is in most stains (minwax etc) sits on the surface of the wood basically. More importantly, if you get the glue off you can stain it again and even things out.
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Jan 12, 2021 02:34
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GEMorris posted:I built another thing: I love it! That top looks thicc
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Jan 12, 2021 02:39
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NomNomNom posted:I love it! That top looks thicc It's about 2-1/8" it is two 2x12's glued together, but the chamfer is just above the glue like so you have to look close to notice.
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Jan 12, 2021 02:52
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NomNomNom posted:I made a picture frame sled to enter into the wild world of framing photos and art. Based it on design ideas from Make Something and Michael Alm (and probably others). Added my own twist with the locking stop block. My ideas are just educated guesses: your "good crosscut blade" has too few teeth to make a fine cut clamp sacrificial backer pieces take multiple shallow cuts instead of one pass at full height use less splintery wood
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Jan 12, 2021 02:54
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NomNomNom posted:I made a picture frame sled to enter into the wild world of framing photos and art. Based it on design ideas from Make Something and Michael Alm (and probably others). Added my own twist with the locking stop block. A few things to check: the kerf on the sled looks a lot wider than your blade, when was the last time you cleaned/sharpened the blade, is it really a high tooth fine crosscut blade (the one in your photos doesn't look like it), can you add a block right where the two rulers meet to provide a vertical zero clearance as well? A bit of adhesive sandpaper in front of the rulers where the frame sits really helps lock it in place.
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Jan 12, 2021 03:06
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Leperflesh posted:Thanks for uploading pics! Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I knew something was up as soon as I saw the doubled washers, thats a halfassed fix job hallmark. If it weren't so badly chipped up and the slots already at their extents, I'd be tempted to mill out the slot larger. If that frog is even ~1/8" further towards the throat I'll bet it would work. I'm not overly attached to this plane but it'd be super handy if I could get it working well. It already works half decent even with the damage and mismatched parts. Is this frog likely to work? Seems to match from what I can see not crazy expensive. Next I'll post some pictures of the transitional Stanley #4 (I think) that I need to fab a replacement part for.
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Jan 12, 2021 07:32
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I knew something was up as soon as I saw the doubled washers, thats a halfassed fix job hallmark. If it weren't so badly chipped up and the slots already at their extents, I'd be tempted to mill out the slot larger. If that frog is even ~1/8" further towards the throat I'll bet it would work. Looks like the right design. I've not verified your identification of your plane (I can't, really) although it does seem reasonable; nor can I verify the seller's ID of the part, but if you're both right then it should work. $15 + $10 shipping seems OK?
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Jan 12, 2021 07:50
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Leperflesh posted:Looks like the right design. I've not verified your identification of your plane (I can't, really) although it does seem reasonable; nor can I verify the seller's ID of the part, but if you're both right then it should work. $15 + $10 shipping seems OK? I'll have to think about then. Thanks again for the help!
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Jan 12, 2021 08:42
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I made a garden bench for my parents for Christmas, and they liked it so much they put it in their bedroom - A few people have expressed interest in buying them, and I've been furloughed so I decided why not. Anyone have experience with (green) oak? It's a very simple but meaty hand chiseled mortise/tenon with glue, should I put dowels in to hold it over the years, or should the size of the joint be sufficient?
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Jan 12, 2021 10:37
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