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GEMorris posted:I built another thing:  Very nice! Good twitter handle too
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Jan 12, 2021 13:07
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NomNomNom posted:Obviously a backer piece would be ideal, but I can't think of a way to add one that preserves the ability of the rabbet to ride on the square. This may sound silly but have you tried wrapping the end of the wood (the future end—where the blade is going to go through) in masking tape? It's often surprisingly effective at preventing that kind of tearout. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 15:16
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Okay so I've been lurking this thread for a while but have recently decided to dedicate basically all of my spare time to woodwork so hi. I just found someone one suburb over getting rid of some old structural hardwood for free, for firewood. I messaged her and said "hey some of that looks too good to burn if you can hold it till tomorrow night can I grab it and make things with it" which she seems happy with.  It's Jarrah, which is a native Australian species prolific in Western Australia and is essentially the go to for hard wood here. It has a Janka rating of 1910 which is slightly harder than purpleheart, although less than some of our other hardwood species such as spotted gum or Karri, or something freakish like Ipe or red mahogany. It's a good looking wood though, termites hate it, and my house is basically made out of it, with some bricks thrown in for good measure. It tends to smoke when you drill holes in it and it will make underpowered power tools cry for the sweet release of death. I'm most interested in the painted beams/joists as they look to be straight and relatively free of rot. I'm looking for advice on the best method to resaw them into usable structural or dressed timber. I have a 10" 1500w Makita contractor saw with a poo poo fence; a triton 2000 workbench with a pretty solid fence setup fitted with a 9 1/4 inch Makita saw which I have both 24t rippingand 60t finishing blades for; an 8 1/4" corded saw with a ripping blade; two DeWalt cordless 6 1/4 inch circular saws that I believe would probably catch fire trying to saw this stuff, and a cheap (read: home depot grade) bandsaw that my sister bought before realising that it's too drat hot in her shed for 8-9 months of the yearto use. I'm mostly accustomed to working with sheet stock like MDF and melamine, ply or soft pine, so what's the go here? Should I rip it on both sides with the table saw and then clean it up with a finishing blade, or just take my time and feed it to the cheap bandsaw? I
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Jan 12, 2021 15:39
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Shelvocke posted:I made a garden bench for my parents for Christmas, and they liked it so much they put it in their bedroom - If you make the seat out of green wood and the legs out of kiln dried wood, the seat will shrink on the tenons and won't ever come out. Drawboring the tenons is def an option if you are working with green/green or dry/dry wood. Thats a long way to drive a drawbore peg tho. If drawboring was my goal I'd probably split the tenon in two so I could drive a pin from each side, but only half the distance. That said, with tenons this big, compared to the likely forces on a bench like this, as long as their are well fitted and you use an appropriate glue, you're probably going to be fine.
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Jan 12, 2021 16:52
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Don Dongington posted:Okay so I've been lurking this thread for a while but have recently decided to dedicate basically all of my spare time to woodwork so hi. Solid find! What's your goal? If you just want to get it sized, what're you trying to make?
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Jan 12, 2021 19:12
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GEMorris posted:drawbore Thanks, I think I'll look at drawboring from now on. The oak is 200mm wide so i undoubtedly have a fight on my hands. For treatment, I used Osmo one coat to protect from UV, but it doesn't penetrate particularly well (presumably because the wood is still quite damp. I'll debate using it next time, even if it does give the wood a nice caramel finish.
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Jan 12, 2021 19:14
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Never seen a planer used this way but if it works it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCOX7aY87QA
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Jan 12, 2021 20:58
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I want to ride it
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Jan 12, 2021 21:02
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Solid find! My fiancee has asked me to build an arbor for our upcoming wedding. I was going to make it out of pine 2x4s (some ripped down to 1x4), but that's one thing I could do with this, and then maybe tear it down after and reuse the timber. if there's enough material, or I could supplement it with more, a work bench would be great - but it's a really hard wood to work so it would take time. Otherwise simple furniture projects like the two small benches above, a new coffee table top, an extra railing for the stairs in my sunken lounge. I forgot to mention I also have a power planer or two. Not much in the way of hand tools at this stage. Most of my power tools were hand me downs or marketplace scores, but they're relatively good quality. I've been focused on reorganising my shop this month using ideas stolen from youtubers, such as french cleat walls and these funky drill hangers  It's nice to get things out of drawers and tool boxes and into spaces that make sense for workflow.
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Jan 13, 2021 00:08
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I'll abstain from answering because my dumbass answer is always "MAKE SOMETHING FOR THE SHOP" and I end up making gently caress-all else. Well, this is wild. Anyone interested at aggressively getting into wood carving? https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/d/newaygo-flexcut-carving-tools/7247812461.html Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 00:23
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Any tips for doing my final protective clear coat on my shelf? Right now I intend to use laquer, but I'd love input on things like thinning it, how many coats to plan, and the need for sanding.
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Jan 13, 2021 03:42
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CommonShore posted:Any tips for doing my final protective clear coat on my shelf? Right now I intend to use laquer, but I'd love input on things like thinning it, how many coats to plan, and the need for sanding. I've never used it, but this video popped up for me yesterday. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESSU7EmT-cE
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Jan 13, 2021 04:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8jp3tweJes This one as well. Simple too.
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Jan 13, 2021 04:37
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CommonShore posted:Any tips for doing my final protective clear coat on my shelf? Right now I intend to use laquer, but I'd love input on things like thinning it, how many coats to plan, and the need for sanding. Are you set up to spray with a spray gun? If yes (and don’t spray in an enclosed space) then lacquer is great. If you aren’t set up to spray, shellac has most of the benefits of lacquer but is much easier to pad or brush on at the cost of a little bit of durability. Otherwise, danish oil or BLO. Polyurethane or other varnish is okay too but not my favorite thing to deal with.
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Jan 13, 2021 04:49
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you set up to spray with a spray gun? If yes (and don’t spray in an enclosed space) then lacquer is great. If you aren’t set up to spray, shellac has most of the benefits of lacquer but is much easier to pad or brush on at the cost of a little bit of durability. Can BLO be the top coat for something like a shelf? Will that seal it and harden it enough?
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Jan 13, 2021 05:02
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CommonShore posted:Can BLO be the top coat for something like a shelf? Will that seal it and harden it enough? I wish I could point to a perfect YouTube University for finishing but I haven’t found a good general one and honestly it’s a broad and complex enough subject that it won’t fit in a 20 minute YouTube. If you want to understand wood finishes, get Bob Flexner’s book ‘Understanding wood finishing’. It’s not long, it’s not difficult, and it has all the answers when I can’t remember them. It’s the best $20 anyone can spend to improve the quality of their woodworking imo.
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Jan 13, 2021 05:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It won’t really seal or harden anything, but yes, it’s a perfectly decent finish for a shelf. Let it cure well (a week or more?) and wax it before you put books on it so they don’t stick. Well I'll just do that then, given what I'm seeing elsewhere in the thread. e. both of the linked videos were very useful and good. Thank you. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 05:22
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 Well poo poo, I guess I'm building a workbench then.
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Jan 13, 2021 11:24
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Don Dongington posted:
ohhh nice look at how thicc those scraps are
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Jan 13, 2021 15:00
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If you're going to make an pretty and dainty arbor, this isn't the wood for you. If you're going to make a fuckoff hefty workbench, 
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Jan 13, 2021 16:51
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I picked up a standing desk frame. https://www.fully.com/standing-desks/desk-frames/jarvis-frame-only.html Got a pile of cherry that's been drying in a barn for 40 years that I'm going to make the top with. Top will be something like 27"x48" ~3/4" thick Think I'll need do to anything besides glue them up in a big panel and finish it? Never glued up something quite that big. I don't have a biscuit joiner, I could pocket-hole them to help with alignment.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:16
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Gounads posted:I picked up a standing desk frame. Pocket holes might work but if the point is alignment, how do you expect that to go? Genuinely curious. I'm presuming you: Set out the clamps. Set out the glue. Then? Do you pre-drill the holes and hope they're all aligned? Maybe some simple doweling would be better. This could all be a vocabulary misunderstanding as well.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:20
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It's pretty easy to apply glue and align just 2 boards and screw 'em together. Then do another one. Then clamp the 3 together. Screws keep 'em from sliding while you clamp the larger group. Biscuits would be better. I could try dowels, you just reminded me I have one of those cheap dowel jigs that I never use.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:25
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If your boards are all flat, square, and the same thickness, pocket holes will help keep them aligned thickness-wise during glue-up, but you'll still need to keep them aligned length-wise when you're driving the screws. Definitely doable, and you can always make everything slightly longer and square off the ends after glue-up. Dowels (assuming you mark and drill your holes accurately) will do a better job of keeping the boards aligned in both directions.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:35
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Pocket screws always seem to pull things OUT of alignment for me, so I wouldn’t recommend them. Dowels are better, biscuits are best. You can also break it down into several different glue ups and just use cauls across the joint. If it’s a tight joint, you can usually move things around with a rubber mallet when the bar clamps are about 3/4 of the way tight to do it by feel.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pocket screws always seem to pull things OUT of alignment for me, so I wouldn’t recommend them. Dowels are better, biscuits are best. You can also break it down into several different glue ups and just use cauls across the joint. If it’s a tight joint, you can usually move things around with a rubber mallet when the bar clamps are about 3/4 of the way tight to do it by feel. I have found clamping before drilling and screwing pocket holes keep things from shifting. Then again I don't like using pocket holes for glue ups and only use them for cabinets like they are intended.
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Jan 13, 2021 18:19
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more falafel please posted:If your boards are all flat, square, and the same thickness, pocket holes will help keep them aligned thickness-wise during glue-up, but you'll still need to keep them aligned length-wise when you're driving the screws. Definitely doable, and you can always make everything slightly longer and square off the ends after glue-up. Dowels (assuming you mark and drill your holes accurately) will do a better job of keeping the boards aligned in both directions. This is a more eloquent way of saying what I was trying to say. Additionally: Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pocket screws always seem to pull things OUT of alignment for me, so I wouldn’t recommend them. Dowels are better, biscuits are best. You can also break it down into several different glue ups and just use cauls across the joint. If it’s a tight joint, you can usually move things around with a rubber mallet when the bar clamps are about 3/4 of the way tight to do it by feel.
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Jan 13, 2021 18:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pocket screws always seem to pull things OUT of alignment for me, so I wouldn’t recommend them. Dowels are better, biscuits are best. You can also break it down into several different glue ups and just use cauls across the joint. If it’s a tight joint, you can usually move things around with a rubber mallet when the bar clamps are about 3/4 of the way tight to do it by feel. I did a dozen cedar benches and used a combination of pocket screws and dowels that solved my pulling issue. Otherwise yes, totally, regardless how much clamping force I use that pocket screw seems to tweak it just enough to piss me off.
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Jan 13, 2021 18:56
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I may be missing something, but why would you pocket screw a slab glue-up anyway? Clamp it together, caul it, then just screw if you want to pull it tighter. I don't understand why it would be a pocket screw. (Or use dowls/biscuits if you're one-o-them fancy types.)
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Jan 13, 2021 19:36
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My standing desk is three cherry boards glued edge-to-edge. I didn't use any screws, dowels, or biscuits, just some cauls to keep things flat while the glue dried, and then hand-planed any irregularities. You really want those cauls -- otherwise the clamps can pull the boards into a bit of a V shape. Dowels/biscuits can only do so much to prevent that, because they don't have leverage.
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Jan 13, 2021 19:49
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I was lazy and just bought a counter top to go with the legs.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:41
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I'll abstain from answering because my dumbass answer is always "MAKE SOMETHING FOR THE SHOP" and I end up making gently caress-all else. Good luck selling those without splitting them up.
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Jan 13, 2021 21:58
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mds2 posted:Good luck selling those without splitting them up. Yeah drives me bonkers when people do that. Some guy had this big heap of loving bullshit old wrenches and garbage with one router plane and one nice marking gauge in it. He refused to even entertain the idea of splitting them up, even though I would have paid 20% of his total asking price just for those two items out of a lot of like 40 tools. His listing is still up like three months later.
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Jan 14, 2021 02:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My standing desk is three cherry boards glued edge-to-edge. I didn't use any screws, dowels, or biscuits, just some cauls to keep things flat while the glue dried, and then hand-planed any irregularities. You really want those cauls -- otherwise the clamps can pull the boards into a bit of a V shape. Dowels/biscuits can only do so much to prevent that, because they don't have leverage. You alternate over,under,over,under with your clamps to alleviate that.
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Jan 14, 2021 03:59
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After being properly chided for owning no nonpowered saws I went down the Paul sellers YouTube hole and the Chris schwarz book hole and now I have a low angle jack plane and some Japanese saws. The saws seem great but I'm having trouble with the plane. I suspect that part of the problem is my wood. I'm loving around on some Douglas fir that I have and I'm getting absolutely incredible tear out. I've sharpened the blade and done some fiddling about with adjustments but have been unable to get reliably good shavings without occasionally ripping out a huge chunk of wood. It's a little bit knotty and the grain is pretty loose but I figured it being relatively soft would give me a lot of leeway? What am I doing wrong?
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Jan 14, 2021 06:17
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Bloody posted:After being properly chided for owning no nonpowered saws I went down the Paul sellers YouTube hole and the Chris schwarz book hole and now I have a low angle jack plane and some Japanese saws. The saws seem great but I'm having trouble with the plane. I suspect that part of the problem is my wood. I'm loving around on some Douglas fir that I have and I'm getting absolutely incredible tear out. I've sharpened the blade and done some fiddling about with adjustments but have been unable to get reliably good shavings without occasionally ripping out a huge chunk of wood. It's a little bit knotty and the grain is pretty loose but I figured it being relatively soft would give me a lot of leeway? What am I doing wrong? Have you tried switching planing directions. So planning with the grain instead of against it?
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Jan 14, 2021 07:12
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I've been planing doug fir all week for my new work bench and its awful. I get a good shaving if: I'm going along the grain in the wood's preferred direction (like Falco is getting at), I'm not running over knots, and I haven't dulled the blade way down by slamming it into too many knots recently. Even then I get random tearout in places. The knots also get cut less each pass, so they inevitably end up as high spots. I resorted to periodically switching to a block plane and shaving down just the knots. Definitely try it on decent hardwood before you get too dispirited. Even a less knotty piece of pine or something will be less frustrating. Doublecheck your technique of course, and it sounds like you know the go to resources already.
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Jan 14, 2021 07:50
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yeah I found a less knotty piece and I'm getting consistently good results now with a super tight mouth and shallow cut. Can't go too hog wild though or it'll just tear to ribbons. My shed is now littered with shavings though so I'm calling it a win and moving on to doing real stuff. I've now got stock half prepped for a wooden try square, which has been a good experience of learning just how tricky it is to cut anything square by hand. Definitely going to be making the interior 90 out of factory edges, my goodness also red oak sawdust smells... weird
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Jan 15, 2021 00:45
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Walnut has been my favorite smell since I started working in a shop. Kind of a nutty, roasty smell, but kinda musty? Hard to describe. It reminds me of an old brewpub I used to go to. Not sure why.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:20
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Walnut has been my favorite smell since I started working in a shop. Kind of a nutty, roasty smell, but kinda musty? Hard to describe. It reminds me of an old brewpub I used to go to. Not sure why. Good news, out of all of the north american domestic hardwoods, Walnut will gently caress you up the most.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:35
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