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This is kind of a generic question about rocker / cam cover gaskets. Generally the cover has tabs or a groove to try to keep the gasket aligned. Should a gasket compound be used on the cover before putting the gasket on it to keep everything in place? I'm just asking because over the years I've seen gaskets do weird things which aren't conducive to sealing.
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Jan 9, 2021 06:51
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The rubber and metal composite gaskets that hold their shape nicely? Nah, only where the gasket bumps up over a cam cap or something and there might be a leak in a corner. The lovely paper, rubber, and/or cork gaskets? RTV or gasket shellac everywhere.
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Jan 9, 2021 07:38
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kastein posted:The lovely paper, rubber, and/or cork gaskets? RTV or gasket shellac everywhere.
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Jan 9, 2021 08:09
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So regular posters, just so you know you are not shouting good car advice into the void, I changed my tires back to the all seasons. Also have a picture of me rollin' green. Hopefully this isn't the groverhaus of car rim paintjobs:  Also also: tactlessbastard posted:Please tell me you can get Kubota orange I can! That's a color that would have worked with my car, too...
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Jan 9, 2021 15:19
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A few years ago, in either this forum or the cycle subforum, there was a goon writing a sci-fi story involving a motorcycle-riding hacker running from the future police. Does that thread still exist?
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Jan 9, 2021 19:15
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Scope posted:A few years ago, in either this forum or the cycle subforum, there was a goon writing a sci-fi story involving a motorcycle-riding hacker running from the future police. Does that thread still exist? You can read the whole story in this book here: https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Crash-N...+stephen&sr=8-5
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Jan 9, 2021 20:17
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Back in a state (CA) that requires a front plate. My wife's 2012 Camry was purchased here in CA but just has two lovely holes in the front bumper where the dealer had initially installed the plate. I lost whatever screws were there when we moved. I don't mind drilling new poo poo, but what's the best way to get a plate mounted on the rather curved front of the car?
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Jan 10, 2021 00:21
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Pham Nuwen posted:Back in a state (CA) that requires a front plate. My wife's 2012 Camry was purchased here in CA but just has two lovely holes in the front bumper where the dealer had initially installed the plate. I lost whatever screws were there when we moved. I don't mind drilling new poo poo, but what's the best way to get a plate mounted on the rather curved front of the car? I walked past a few of those gen while walking my doggy and it looks like the plate just screws right to the bumper. Dealers often use an imperial size that I don't know off the top of my head. I can try and find it when I get back. Edit: unless there's a tiny bracket hidden behind the plate. Do the holes line up with the plate? Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 01:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:Back in a state (CA) that requires a front plate. My wife's 2012 Camry was purchased here in CA but just has two lovely holes in the front bumper where the dealer had initially installed the plate. I lost whatever screws were there when we moved. I don't mind drilling new poo poo, but what's the best way to get a plate mounted on the rather curved front of the car? Hit up Lowe's, go to the hardware section. The part with the slide-out drawers with bolts, screws, etc. There should be one or two that are labeled automotive - there's a few varieties of license plate bolts (including the plastic things they screw into if you want to get fancy). It'll be about 1/5 the price of the same thing at a parts store. Or if there wasn't even a bracket, grab this at your nearest Walmart. It''s not a proper bracket, but it'll keep the plate straight instead of having to bend it to conform to the bumper. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 03:48
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Or use some 3M double sided tape to hold it on. Edit: VVV fair enough. Whatever tape people use on their luxury cars to not drill into the front. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 10:00
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You're putting a whole lotta trust into that layer of paint to hold a plate on. Especially if you ever use a car wash with air dryers. 3M tape is a lot stronger than a layer of paint (and if it's a repainted bumper or non-OEM, the plate will probably wander off on new journeys next time you're at highway speeds).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 10:38
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Isn't super sturdy double stick tape the standard for plate mounting in europe?
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Jan 10, 2021 16:27
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opengl128 posted:Isn't super sturdy double stick tape the standard for plate mounting in europe? Aren't most of the European/UK plates plastic now? The one I have is (I have older metal Swiss plates also, but they're from the early 70s)
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Jan 10, 2021 17:13
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Rather than putting new holes in the bumper, I would use the lovely old holes and just put a couple of bolts through with nylock nuts on the inside. Gaining access to the inside of the bumper is left as a homework exercise.
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Jan 10, 2021 19:02
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opengl128 posted:Isn't super sturdy double stick tape the standard for plate mounting in europe? Nope. PainterofCrap posted:Aren't most of the European/UK plates plastic now? The one I have is (I have older metal Swiss plates also, but they're from the early 70s) Nope. The standard is, afaik, a plate-holder that screws onto the car that has about a metric bazillion of screw holes for different cars, and it holds a plate which is of a standardized size across the EU. The plate is usually stamped metal. The UK uses plastic ones I think. Maybe other European countries use plastic as well but from my experience Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, France, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, Austria, Poland, etc all use metal plates.
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Jan 10, 2021 20:12
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Sagebrush posted:Rather than putting new holes in the bumper, I would use the lovely old holes and just put a couple of bolts through with nylock nuts on the inside. This is what I did on my pickup, since it's easy to get access to the inside of the bumper. STR's Walmart frame holder looks like a pretty good idea but there's no Walmarts on the San Francisco peninsula as far as I can tell, so I'll probably order it.
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Jan 11, 2021 18:18
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I'm replacing some suspension discovered a lot of surface rust on coil buckets and other structurally important places. I'd like to treat these areas before they dissolve into a safety hazard. What's the best rust treatment for these areas? Best I can tell is wire brush the poo poo out of it, apply some kind of rust reformer/rust-oleum and paint with Por 15 or similar. Are there any products or methodologies that stand out to use/avoid? I asked this on a car forum and as expected got two pages of 'If your coil buckets rust out it's dangerous!' and some debate over the correct terminology for coil buckets without much useful information on rust prevention.
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Jan 11, 2021 20:46
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Outrail posted:I'm replacing some suspension discovered a lot of surface rust on coil buckets and other structurally important places. I'd like to treat these areas before they dissolve into a safety hazard. What's the best rust treatment for these areas? Best I can tell is wire brush the poo poo out of it, apply some kind of rust reformer/rust-oleum and paint with Por 15 or similar. Are there any products or methodologies that stand out to use/avoid? Coil spring perches  ? If its just surface rust, you can probably just brush the poo poo out of it, and then cover it with tremclad or some poo poo.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:12
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My Honda Civic's maintenance minder flashed on with B1 today. It says I need a tire rotation (which I'll get to) and also an oil change. However, I just got an oil change two months ago (and I've driven only about 2000 miles since). I looked at the vehicle info and it said I had 15% oil life. I just went to check my oil and it looks alright: Could this just be that the mechanic forgot to reset the maintenance info for the oil?
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Jan 12, 2021 00:46
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Probably, yes. 2000 miles/2 months is nothing.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:52
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drainpipe posted:My Honda Civic's maintenance minder flashed on with B1 today. It says I need a tire rotation (which I'll get to) and also an oil change. However, I just got an oil change two months ago (and I've driven only about 2000 miles since). I looked at the vehicle info and it said I had 15% oil life. I just went to check my oil and it looks alright: Yes. The car has no idea when the oil was last changed.
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Jan 12, 2021 03:09
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wesleywillis posted:Coil spring perches Pogocups Yeah, that was what I was expecting. Cheers
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Jan 12, 2021 04:43
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Edit: Nevermind
Lean Six Ligma fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 01:46
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Honda is dropping the Fit in 2020  What is the new best US vehicle to fill the 'sweet spot' in terms of safe, reasonably comfortable, good cargo/people capacity, very low total cost of ownership (purchase price at 2 years old + gas + insurance + maintenance - resale cost at 5 years old)? Past title holders IMO: Honda Accord, Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, Honda Fit.
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Jan 13, 2021 11:14
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Deserted posted:Honda is dropping the Fit in 2020 Base model impreza?
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Jan 13, 2021 14:23
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It's probably the Corolla but if you are running a three year ownership horizon from 2-5 years you are absolutely doing it wrong
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Jan 13, 2021 14:52
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Deserted posted:Honda is dropping the Fit in 2020 If they're still making it: a 5-speed Versa. I have an '07 Versa with the CVT, 140K miles. It's still chugging along reliably. We're all waiting for the transmission to explode (This kills the Versa). Apparently the manual trans will go forever. The car is tinny - slamming the door sounds like a cookie sheet dropped on concrete - but comfortable and fun to drive.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:04
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PainterofCrap posted:If they're still making it: a 5-speed Versa. My buddy owns a manual Mazda 2 as his around town beater. He never wants to get rid of it because of the stupid low cost of ownership. I recall him whining about 4 new tires going to cost him like 360 out the door.... while I was shopping for tires that were running 220-250 a piece....
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Jan 13, 2021 17:11
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Deserted posted:Honda is dropping the Fit in 2020 melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 13, 2021 17:33
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Mazda 3. They've been using this drivetrain for about 10 years or so, and a smaller displacement version of the engine for even longer.
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Jan 13, 2021 19:30
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Any experience with Douglas All-Season tires? My rears are shot and they are very affordable/ don't need to be shipped, but if they're dangerous then I don't want to mess with them. I live on Long Island, in the Northeast so nothing crazy weather wise but definitley 4 distinct seasons and a couple of snow storms every year. Car is an 06 Mazda 3, so I'm not going offroad or very fast on the road in inclement weather anyway. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 21:17
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e: probably best not to listen to me i bought tires because they had the same name as my car
Cage fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 21:54
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DildenAnders posted:Any experience with Douglas All-Season tires? My rears are shot and they are very affordable/ don't need to be shipped, but if they're dangerous then I don't want to mess with them. I live on Long Island, in the Northeast so nothing crazy weather wise but definitley 4 distinct seasons and a couple of snow storms every year. They're fine. Goodyear makes them as sort of a house brand for Walmart. They're not going to be fantastic high end tires, but they're not going to kill you. They might not last as long as other tires, but they're like 50 bucks so set expectations accordingly.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:01
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skipdogg posted:They're fine. Goodyear makes them as sort of a house brand for Walmart. They're not going to be fantastic high end tires, but they're not going to kill you. They might not last as long as other tires, but they're like 50 bucks so set expectations accordingly. That's perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:04
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Are there any good books out there that cover the History of old GM?
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Jan 14, 2021 02:39
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Nebakenezzer posted:Are there any good books out there that cover the History of old GM? I haven't read it, but "My Years With GM" by Alfred P Sloan? Edit: actually I think it's more of a management book. It might have some insight though. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 03:39
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Alright guys, back with the 2005 Toyota Matrix (base model, 1.6 w/manual), 95k miles. On a stone cold start, it either does a high idle as it should (though it seems to be a bit unsteady - kinda wavers between 1500-1800), or it'll start, idle up very briefly, then barely be able to maintain an idle (tach barely off 0, alternator light flickering, etc) until it warms up, occasionally stalling when this is happening. It's not throwing any codes related to the engine (it is throwing an immobilizer code, but meh, it still starts, and that's the only code). It's drive by wire, though coolant does go to the throttle body (guessing just to keep it from icing though). I'm thinking maybe a dying coolant temp sensor? The gauge shows the proper temp, though I'm not sure if it uses the same sending unit for the gauge and ECU or if they're separate. Or a dirty/dying MAF - does the 1ZZ-FE use the MAF in open loop? Beyond that I'm thinking there's an intermittent vacuum leak or the ECU isn't catching a sticky EGR, but I'm no expert. It's been an issue for a few years, but only in the winter. The only things the car has ever needed has been regular maintenance, a valve cover gasket, and a clutch at 80k (... PO isn't very kind to clutches). I already looked at the throttle body (looked, didn't touch) - it looks brand new, no buildup on it. What should I check? I plan to look at fuel trims in a bit, though it's only in the high 40s right now - if it's going to act up, it's generally below 40. Also plan to run an unlit propane torch around at some point on a day off to see if I can find vacuum leaks. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 09:05
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Different cars and several years apart in model years but my old protege did that and changing the throttle position sensor fixed it.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:39
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Is there an IACV to clean? I'm also thinking a vacuum leak that bad would toss lean codes. Guess intake gasket is problematic on those.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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No IACV on the base model for this year model, only the XRS (which retained a cable throttle until the end of the 2006 model for some reason), which had a different engine. It's all electronic. As far as I can tell the coolant lines going to the throttle body are strictly to heat the incoming air to prevent icing; I've seen plenty of talk of people looping them for that extra 0.2 hp.  I found enough videos on youtube - some of them pretty loving dated - to convince me that the intake gasket is indeed An Issue on these engines. Even South Main Auto had a very early video about one on the same year model - the video is from 2014 - and that was a northern car (this one spent the first 1/3 of its life in the far west Texas desert, though its entire life in Texas heat). I'd expect lean codes too, but I've noticed lately the idle isn't steady even once warm. It's not fluctuating much, but it's enough that I can feel it, and the tach noticeably moves a couple of hundred RPM consistently. The only time I've ever seen the CEL is when I didn't tighten the gas cap fully, It pulled the "NO I DONT WANNA IDLE" poo poo again yesterday, I have to wait for another cold day to really dig into it. It fired right up this morning. Kinda curious if the ECU recall affects this one - I'll have to see if the drive cycle is complete and what fuel trims are like, particularly while cold. I don't think it's included in the recall, I think that recall mostly affected early 05s, while this is a later 05 (ECU has to be physically checked for a lot # though). It's not acting like the typical ECU issues these had when they went bad (random loss of power, random CEL, random engine dying), it's just slowly getting worse every winter. Not even sure Toyota would be able to get a new ECU for it at this point, since the recall was in 2010, but it's still marked as an open recall. You'd also think it'd throw a code about an idle control issue.  My Subaru sure gets pissy if I pull/break a vacuum line - once the idle sits over 1200 with no change in TPS for a bit it pops an idle control code (I was poking at the PCV hose while it was idling and it just crumbled... hello large vacuum leak).wesleywillis posted:Different cars and several years apart in model years but my old protege did that and changing the throttle position sensor fixed it. I don't think you can replace the TPS on the drive by wire throttle body on this car. It looks like all of the electronics are one piece, including the motor. I know some DBW throttle bodies can have them replaced, but as plentiful as Corollas are in junkyards.... Rockauto does list a TPS, but it doesn't look like anything on the throttle body; I do know the XRS trim (which had a different engine) still had a cable operated throttle body through the end of the 2006 run, and these are crossing as up to a 2006. A new Aisin throttle body on Rockauto runs about $250, I'd rather not touch anything on the TB. Might try a junkyard one, but I've learned my lesson with moving butterflies on a DBW TB.. or just even looking at them funny (borked one on my last Saturn cleaning it, it would just stay at ~2500-3000 no matter what I did after that and go into limp mode pretty quick, even with multiple relearns). For some reason Rockauto doesn't differentiate between the two engines either, just shows Matrix 1.8L (both are 1.8, but one puts down another ~25 hp and can be had with a 6 speed). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 14:08
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