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I've never seen a setup where routing it wrong - but still with the correct side of the belt on every pulley - ends up *that* close to a functional system. Just not enough actual wrap and tension.
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Nov 27, 2020 01:54
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So I don't know if I'm crazy or just feeling placebo effect but I swear this thing actually has a good bit more pickup now that the timing chain isn't flapping in the breeze. Definitely quieter at idle and I think the main source of cold noise now is just lifters taking their sweet time in pumping up. Which, gently caress no I'm not going to yank the head just to throw some lifters in a 200k mile 4.0. If they were doable head-on I'd consider it. Now back to *gestures at garage*: TJ:
C10:
Opel:
Horse trailer
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Nov 30, 2020 04:27
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Because the Jeep gonna Jeep, after a drive the other day I went to fire it up and got a big fat zero oil pressure. Checked the level, still full and still clean. No strange noises like I would have expected if it really did have no oil pressure so I figured it was probably a bad oil pressure sensor. It did sporadically read pressure as I drove another ~30 miles but not with any real correspondence to RPM. Given that the engine didn't seize it clearly had at least something still working. Went to pull the old sensor out and noticed two things. One, it was leaking through the sensor, so clearly dying. Two, all three wires on the sensor were completely bare of insulation for at least an inch coming out of the connector. Verified with a mechanical gauge that it still makes good pressure at least at idle, threw my new sensor in there, and clipped the connector off of the harness. Now to order up a pigtail and decide how best to route replacement wiring.
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Dec 9, 2020 01:42
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Can you post a pic of the sensor itself? It's the 3 wire one right? I'm 99.9% sure it's an Aptiv Apex series connector, just want to make sure before I state that definitively. Can't remember if it's 1.5 or 2.8 series though. You can probably find it for cheap on mouser and crimp it onto the existing wires instead of splicing in a pigtail if you want, maybe even just buy new pins and reuse the same housing. Edit: looked it up on rockauto, that is 1000% an Aptiv Apex series. Not sure whether it's 1.5 or 2.8 still though. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 04:54
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It's apparently common enough to be found in stock at nearly every Autozone around me, so I just went and picked one up. I'll splice it on tomorrow when I have daylight and can see how far up the harness I have to go to find good wire to splice to. This thing had substantial oil leaks that were ignored for a long time, some time in the distant past. Long enough that it's all dry, but long ago enough that the oil seems to have attacked the connector body. It actually feels kind of soft. Not worth the effort to try and salvage that bit of plastic.
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Dec 9, 2020 07:07
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Had to lop off another inch of wiring from the Jeep harness until I found some where the insulation wasn't just crumbling away. Photo of the finished repair, imagine three wires and heat shrink butt crimps underneath the loom. Truly exciting stuff. If/when I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor I suspect I'll need to do the same repair there. New evap hoses. Unfortunately I've got a pending P0442 again so none of the dry-rotted poo poo up here was responsible for that. At this point I think I'm down to just the various tank connections as possible leaks, so I guess I'll be dropping the fuel tank again! Outside of that there's a small possibility of a failed leak detection pump or purge solenoid but those seem less likely.  New PCV line. Used a 1/4 NPT to 1/2" barb fitting in the manifold so that I could just run 1/2" PCV hose straight across the engine. Bumped the old plastic line and broke it so it needed to be done anyway. 
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Dec 10, 2020 06:35
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Mild 'change of plan', found a leak detection pump on Crazy Bezos' Discount Warehouse for $30. Given that the pump itself depends on a lovely little bit of hose that can't easily be replaced, figure that's worth a shot and a return if it doesn't resolve it.
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Dec 10, 2020 16:32
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Leak detection pump changed the P0442 to a P0456 so... progress? Probably going to drop the tank this week to rule out any of the hoses / seals back there. Also, front of the engine is covered in oil, probably because the new front main seal has already failed. I loving love doing a job twice 
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Dec 19, 2020 21:26
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Did you align it using the special method while installing? IIRC you put the seal in the front cover, then stick it all on the front of the motor loosely, put the balancer on, make sure it's wiggled and centered, then carefully tighten the bolts? Been a long time since I had a 4.0 timing cover off but I don't recall any alignment dowels.
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Dec 20, 2020 00:15
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I did not. I also suspect my "adaptation" of an old cover for a new engine may have played into poor alignment. I'm strongly tempted to print an alignment tool once I get my CR10's extruder repaired. Ordered a good used cover on eBay. We'll do it all again including a fresh oil pan gasket because the one on there is barely hanging on for all the abuse I've given it. I'm also going to replace the oil pan bolts in the front cover with studs.
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Dec 20, 2020 08:33
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I have a dumb request - Would you put a nice pic of your C10 in the OP? I was giving my dad a show and tell of AI the other night, going through examples of the types of cool projects people do here. I wanted to show him your truck but I searched through several pages and couldn't locate a pic in a reasonable time.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:32
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Post more of the truck? Sure, why the gently caress not! I haven't taken enough pictures of it all in one piece in entirely too long, so I need to fix that once I get poo poo squared away.    Included that last one because I have basically no recent photos of the grille for some reason? That's a 17-year-old photo of the truck, pre-LS1 swap, on the farm where it spent the first few years before my grandpa gave it to my mom.
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Dec 21, 2020 05:18
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It's because all your recent photos are all about the new wheels. And there's nothing wrong with that. Anyway, thanks man!
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Dec 21, 2020 |
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Dec 21, 2020 08:48
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That is such a good looking truck
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Dec 21, 2020 22:40
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How 'bout 2021 so far? Glad it's been a boring year in which nothing of any note has happened! Still haven't gotten around to re-fixing the oil leak on the TJ because a) I don't really need to go anywhere, b) it's cold out, c) see A. Got all the parts lined up for that and might tackle that this weekend. In the meantime, though, I went to go start the Jeep and got a whole lot of nothing. A pretty obvious symptom was the key (which has always felt a bit sticky) felt like it wasn't fully turning all the way to "start". It would turn just far enough to make some relays click in the fuse block, but not enough to actually engage the start position on the ignition switch or even shut off all of the interior circuits. Did a bit of searching and apparently the actuator pin is a fairly common failure. Strange that my WJ used the exact same part but those seem to have this fail far less often - I think the amount of dirt and dust a TJ interior sees might have to do with it. Disassembly of the ignition switch / lock cylinder is fairly straighforward. Only real complication came in the form of Jeep using loving Torx Security screws to hold everything together, but with enough torque that my ancient plastic-handled T10 security driver was slipping before loosening the screw. Picked up some L-handle Torx Security wrenches to deal with that. Minor complication was trying to pull the lock cylinder itself out - mine is so worn / gummed up that you can remove the key in any position. Chrysler expected you to be able to use the key to pull the cylinder out so there's barely any other way to get a grip on it. Got all the parts out and inspected:  Enhance:  Yep, very broken. I'm replacing all three components together - actuator pin for being completely junk, lock cylinder because you can turn it to "run" without any key at all, and ignition switch because it's dirt loving cheap and I'm already here.
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Jan 12, 2021 17:55
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Progress made. New "actuator pin" and switch installed. Technically according to the instructions you don't need to remove the multifunction switch altogether, but since you already have to loosen the screws - you just need to unplug two plugs and wiggle the thing out to get a lot more room to work.  I reinstalled the old lock cylinder - because the new one was one of those Dorman "self rekeying" ones that someone had already attempted to key, and inserted into the lock body, making it useless. But in the process I discovered that the "will turn without a key" problem wasn't actually the lock cylinder's fault. The TJ, like many vehicles, has a push button that you're supposed to use to turn the key all the way to off. My lock cylinder will let the key out in almost any position, so I've basically never used that button - and so the lock cylinder never returns to the actual "lock" position. The whole purpose of this button is to keep you from slamming the key into a position that locks the steering wheel while driving, which would of course be bad. Edit: Hmm, apparently I had this backwards in my head. Automatic TJs won't lock unless it's in park. Manual TJs will lock but only after you crank the wheel 180 degrees. Debating reinstalling this, not that I turn the key off while rolling on any sort of basis. The fix couldn't be any easier, though. Just remove the button with two more security T10 screws:  Now the lock cylinder will freely rotate all the way back to the lock (and accessory) position, making my Jeep ever so slightly more difficult to steal. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 23:09
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Now the lock is fully disabled. Did some more research and fiddling around with the broken assembly, and it turns out it's trivial to just pull the actuator apart and remove this locking lug (image not mine): Between removing this lug, and the fact that I have the key-in warning disabled, there's really nothing but mass laziness stopping me from trying to figure out how to get a replacement actuator pin made that's just one solid piece instead of having a fragile U-shape at the end.
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Jan 15, 2021 01:03
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Weather was nice enough yesterday to basically redo all the work I did on the front end of the engine in November, along with replacing the oil pan gasket again. The front main seal was pretty obviously cut and had some off-center wear, so it's safe to say that one should not attempt to swap timing covers between early and late 4.0s. Eleven hours start to finish. Nothing went majorly wrong, it's just a *lot* of work. Only bits that put up a fight were the FelPro oil pan gasket snapins (one got stuck and had to be easy-outed), wrestling the Y-pipe back into place (heavy *and* awkward!), and the starter. The threads in the starter itself were pretty badly damaged already. Did my best to repair them, but they still failed before torquing down completely. A M10x1.5 HeliCoil kit costs almost as much as a new starter and I'm pretty sure this one is original, so new starter it is. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 17, 2021 19:58
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Popped the new starter in last night and now it cranks over harder than ever. I'll take that upgrade instead of trying to fix threads in a thin casting. Also put a new lock cylinder in the ignition. No wonder the old one would let the key out in any position with tumblers in this sort of condition. It actually took a decent bit of prying to get these out thanks to the scarring. 
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Jan 19, 2021 00:08
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Those lock tumblers are done. I had to rearrange then in one of my old rabbits to match a key.
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Jan 19, 2021 04:01
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It's the first time I've ever torn apart a lock cylinder. Only other vehicle I've hosed with locks on is my C10 and on that whenever any one cylinder has a problem, I just throw a whole new set at it. The other weird thing was the consistency of whatever lube was left - someone definitely put some form of liquid oil in it that mostly evaporated and became sticky as gently caress. Not a good combination for a vehicle with such poor environmental sealing that it's dusty just from driving around town on paved roads.
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Jan 19, 2021 21:22
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Yeah, I learned a long time ago that you never put anything resembling moist lube in a lock, lest that happen.
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Jan 20, 2021 01:01
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So, on a scale of "good idea" to "Grovertruk", how bad of an idea is it to use a Jeep-mounted winch to pull a non-running vehicle onto a trailer? Barring anything else going horribly wrong (gently caress wisdom teeth forever), I will be moving in the next month or so. I can probably get the Opel moving under its own power to drive it onto a trailer, but I'm not so sure I can get the C10 to that point by the time this would need to happen. The Opel was a pain enough to load by hand when I bought it, with more people helping. The C10 will still be (barely) light enough for the Canyon to tow, but I don't like my odds for being able to get it up onto a trailer. I've got a winch on the TJ. Is there anything fundamentally wrong I'm missing about the idea of having the trailer attached to the Canyon, parking the TJ alongside the Canyon but facing the trailer, and using a winch + tree saver strap around the front crossmember to pull the project cars onto the trailer? Or should I either find someone with a winch-equipped trailer to rent, or buy a come-along so I can pull using the trailer itself?
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Feb 7, 2021 04:23
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Sounds fine to me. Might be some details to work out about exact angles and such but it isn't going to take much to drag it up, not like it's stuck. Make sure to chock the wheels of the trailer and the TJ, and make sure the winch cable is secure enough that it can't fall off if the cable goes slack for a moment when the c10 transitions from ramp to level trailer deck or crosses the balance point of the trailer. Would be a very good idea to have someone else in the c10 (or ideally you in it and a wireless winch controller) to steer, brake, etc and someone to shuffle a chock up behind the c10 every time it gets another few feet on so that it can't roll back too far if something goes wrong.
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Feb 7, 2021 04:44
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Steering is one thing also not hooked up in the C10 at the moment, though I'm sure I can whack the column back in place in about an hour or two.
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Feb 7, 2021 04:51
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Honestly with how slow it'll be moving on a winch you can probably have someone just kick the tires as it rolls, or get out and do that yourself every foot or 3 if you gotta one-man it. I've had to do worse. Could even just use vise grips on the intermediate shaft. We had to ziptie the steering links back into one of my parts jeeps and kick the tires to turn them to push it across the yard once. It worked.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:27
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I'd also suggest putting the trailer jack down or otherwise blocking the trailer tongue until the truck is tied down. That way they trailer stays pitched backwards and you don't risk a forwards rolling C10 as it crosses over the trailer axles and the Colorado starts to squat. But your idea about using a second vehicle to pull them onto the trailer is fine. I've seen it done with a tow rope as well.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:41
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We've done that a few times with various winches or even a tow strap. Make sure the trailer is chocked and BOTH ends of the trailer are supported so you don't get it slamming down at any point. Take it slow and have a second person serve as spotter.
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Feb 7, 2021 14:04
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Alright, glad to see I'm not way off here. Not trying to do this completely solo but not needing a whole crew of people to push a vehicle up will be nice.
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Feb 7, 2021 14:47
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NitroSpazzz posted:We've done that a few times with various winches or even a tow strap. Make sure the trailer is chocked and BOTH ends of the trailer are supported so you don't get it slamming down at any point. Take it slow and have a second person serve as spotter. This, a thousand times. And chock the wheels from both sides. I prefer to have a person in the vehicle being moved, assuming the brakes or e-brake at least work.
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Feb 7, 2021 16:02
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Anyone familiar with GM HMI modules, or the questionable GM J2534 tools on Amazon? Twice now the head unit in the Canyon - conveniently 4k miles past bumper to bumper coverage - has 'locked up' unresponsive to any control input. Problem is resolved upon turning it off (for long enough to force the HMI to power off) and on again. This problem seems to be fairly widespread across GM products, all of which use this setup, but not occurring frequently enough among any one model for anyone to actually conclusively identify a failure. Found one guy who insisted taking out the radio fuse and "turning it around" fixed it for good. Seems that more people report success with paying a dealer $texas to replace the HMI. Used HMIs can be had for $150-200 on eBay, or possibly a fuckload less if I can find one in a pull-a-part. But then they'd need to be programmed to the truck. Oh, and the evap code turned itself off on the TJ. CEL is off, the code still shows if I pull codes in Torque, but Torque also shows all readiness monitors set. loving Jeeps. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 05:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone familiar with GM HMI modules, or the questionable GM J2534 tools on Amazon? Twice now the head unit in the Canyon - conveniently 4k miles past bumper to bumper coverage - has 'locked up' unresponsive to any control input. Problem is resolved upon turning it off (for long enough to force the HMI to power off) and on again. This problem seems to be fairly widespread across GM products, all of which use this setup, but not occurring frequently enough among any one model for anyone to actually conclusively identify a failure. Found one guy who insisted taking out the radio fuse and "turning it around" fixed it for good. Seems that more people report success with paying a dealer $texas to replace the HMI. You could try seeing if the dealer/shop could do a software update on it.
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Feb 26, 2021 14:44
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I might go that route, but since it's out of the bumper to bumper warranty on miles now, I'd rather avoid the dealer. Speaking of oddball out of warranty GM products... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ7ZBJdXtXk Since I'm going to have to get it on a trailer again to move in the next few weeks, I figured I should see if it's possible to drive it on instead of pushing it or winching it. So I installed a new coil and ballast resistor. I don't think there was anything wrong with the original (and yes, with Bosch markings and rust, I think it's truly original) coil but it depends on a resistor wire to avoid smoking things and that wire started burning up last time I tried to start it. I also don't know why the start signal from the ignition switch isn't reaching the starter. I need to do more troubleshooting there. So in the video above, I've got an alligator lead feeding the ballast resistor, and a screwdriver shorting the starter terminals. Safety third! That isn't the absolute first start but it really did fire that quickly the first time, even on the questionably old fuel in the "tank". I replaced the soft line up by the carb since it was rock hard and started leaking everywhere as soon as it got fuel in it today. Haven't tried to drive it more than a few feet since the only working brake is the parking brake, and the not-flat wheels and tires are in storage at the moment. I can't manage to select first gear because whoever the chucklefuck was that put the shifter/transmission back together last time hosed up the reverse lockout. You can't select *any* gear without the lockout lifted, which means you can't select first instead of reverse. But it does back up and it makes a valiant attempt at rolling forward while trying to do a zero-throttle launch in third gear. Of course, now that it has oil pressure for the first time in (possibly too many) years, it's leaking oil from the front of the head gasket. The head gasket on an Opel CIH has two separate sections / thicknesses. A typical head gasket for the head/deck interface, and a cork gasket section connecting the front of the head to the timing cover. Oh well, this thing was going to be a project, and goddamn it is going to be a project.
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Mar 7, 2021 21:14
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Awesome to see it running, even if that means leaking, smoking, and sparking.
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Mar 8, 2021 12:35
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I was legitimately surprised at how quickly it fired and how smoothly it ran. Cap, rotor, points, plug wires, and plugs are still unknown age / probably very old. Fuel was a splash of whatever poo poo the PO put in an antifreeze bottle. I think my rough plan of operations right now is: *Get moved and current house sold *Maintenance on Canyon and TJ as needed, including the track bar I've had laying around for the TJ *Get C10 running and driving *Perhaps buy some Danmar MaxJax for the new house if I'm not already broke as gently caress *Engine / transmission out of the Opel for at least a full set of gaskets and sorting out what the gently caress is wrong with the shifter, and more room on the car to do things like hood hinge repair / radiator replacement
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Mar 8, 2021 15:55
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I have a new garage to fill up with stuff! Which is attached to a house that needs to be nearly completely repainted inside, and then I have to actually loving move. I'm going to be busy for a bit.
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Mar 12, 2021 05:16
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Nice! Have fun. I repainted my entire house when I moved in because the POs had painted all the walls piss yellow for some reason. It was just about the worst color I could imagine for them.
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Mar 12, 2021 05:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have a new garage to fill up with stuff! Cabinets/workbench already, nice! That poor floor is so nice and clean right now. I don't know the scope of your painting, but I just painted my basement and using a sprayer for the trim and doors left a much more professional finish than brushing. Walls I still did the old fashioned way... roller for main part / angled sash brush to freehand trim.
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Mar 12, 2021 12:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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Epoxy the garage floor. Please.
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Mar 12, 2021 13:15
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sharkytm posted:Epoxy the garage floor. Please. It actually already is, though looking at some of the leftover bits in the cabinets I think it's a Rust-oleum DIY coating kit. They didn't go overboard on the plastic chips so it doesn't actually look coated in any angle wide enough to show most of the garage. meatpimp posted:
It's all just walls for color change purposes, the previous owners were big fans of brown and dark tan. We're also ripping out what little carpet is left and putting in more tile.
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Mar 12, 2021 13:45
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