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Sab669 posted:Funny, just last week I was like, "I want to experiment with a Slaneesh kinda purple-and-cream scheme for my Death Guard", primed one of my bois and blasted it with Magos and it looked pretty crappy. Hit it with a second layer and it still just looks like a weird purple wash. gently caress Fresca Yeah, the wings on this daemon prince are a base layer of Army Painter Plate metal, two coats of Magos Purple, and then a coat of Army Painter Purple wash, just to get that result. I like how it turned out in the end, but man Magos purple is so weak, when compared to every other contrast paint I have tried. 
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Jan 13, 2021 16:32
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Does it look more metallic purple in person? Definitely looks purple but I wouldn't have guessed you based it in some kind of silver. I loved the way my Plate Mail + Ork Flesh contrast Stormcast Eternals came out, a very nice metallic green, but then I tried one of the Reds (not sure if Flesh Tearer or Blood Angel) and it came out some really ugly pink.
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Jan 13, 2021 16:51
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Sab669 posted:Does it look more metallic purple in person? Definitely looks purple but I wouldn't have guessed you based it in some kind of silver. A little bit, but not too much, which is good. I was trying to go for a metallic purple, but doing it where you would not expect metal, like the wing membranes, or my Sorcerer robes. The idea being that it would look kind of off or wrong, which in my mind is in part what Tzeentch is about. The Effect turned out much better on Ahriman's robes, which used the same process, to get a sort of shimmering fabric vibe. e: It is also an effect that works better when rotating the model or moving around the model, as opposed to a static image. 
Werix fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 17:16
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I get what you mean about it "being wrong" for the material, but on brand for Tzeentch; cool idea. I like it.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:19
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Sab669 posted:Does it look more metallic purple in person? Definitely looks purple but I wouldn't have guessed you based it in some kind of silver. Blood Angel red over a gold (I usually use GW retributor armour) rather than a silver gives you a really nice fire engine candy shell effect.
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Jan 13, 2021 17:42
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SiKboy posted:Blood Angel red over a gold (I usually use GW retributor armour) rather than a silver gives you a really nice fire engine candy shell effect. I love this idea but then just run into the problem of how i would shade and highlight it
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Jan 13, 2021 20:49
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Got a 3D printer for christmas 
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Jan 13, 2021 20:52
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which one did you go with? I'm side-eyeing a sonic mini 4K but really I need to get the garage cleaned up plus lol maybe paint more of what I already have!
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Jan 13, 2021 21:01
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Mr Owl posted:I love this idea but then just run into the problem of how i would shade and highlight it I love the effect, I'm trying to find a decent photo of minis I've used it on. I tend to use it on isolated plates as an accent rather than doing a whole figure with it. Stuff like the tanks for a flamethrower, or a shoulderpad or shield. If I want to shade it I chuck a black wash or a black ink wash over it to make it look oily and grimy. I dont feel like it really needs highlighting much because of the contrast nature of the red tbh! A couple of examples: The wings and carapace of this iron skeeter  , the shoulderpad of this hunter  I'm slightly irritated because I dont have photos of the models where I didnt dull it back some with black ink wash, because those are mainly models that have a tank on their back. Cover the whole thing in gold, then paint the fuel tank bits in with contrast red, gives a nice sort of vintage look, looks like brass fittings and red enamelled metal.Bonus: This iron skeeter got blue over silver instead (so I could easily distinguish them), and since then a coat of silver followed by a coat of Talasar blue has become my go-to zero effort way of painting lenses on goggles and telescopes and things like that.  If you havent experimented with contrasts over metallics its worth having a play around with. As a general rule the warm colours work over gold or brass, the cold colours work over silver or gun metal. Contrast Black over gunmetal gives a nice "blued metal" effect too. I've only tried it with the comparatively high pigment contrasts, I dont know that Apocathary white over silver will do particularly much other than make it seem dusty.
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Jan 13, 2021 21:29
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Another old-school piece, this time a Ral Partha Frost Giant. Not a great picture but I've been unhappy lately with my lightbox. Bad combination of being so bright that it washes out my highlights and so harsh that it casts really sharp shadows everywhere. Probably just need to bite the bullet and set up a two-light booth so I can control the lighting better.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:38
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I've had a look at some tutorials but nothing is really giving me the info I want. Could some colour theory expert or airbrush wizard give me an idea of a method to paint lumineth to ape this art? I'm thinking prime grey, spray in VGC hexed lichen (deep purple) as shadowing on the whole model, spray the white areas and then brush in the reds and gold. I want the purple to remain strong as a contrast and I'm ok with my airbrush now but I don't want to lose the purple in my subsequent coats.
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Jan 14, 2021 01:09
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tangy yet delightful posted:which one did you go with? I'm side-eyeing a sonic mini 4K but really I need to get the garage cleaned up plus lol maybe paint more of what I already have! Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. Seemed like the best combination of price, features and print size. Still figuring stuff out but I'm pretty happy with it.
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Jan 14, 2021 01:38
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JBP posted:I've had a look at some tutorials but nothing is really giving me the info I want. Could some colour theory expert or airbrush wizard give me an idea of a method to paint lumineth to ape this art? I'm no expert, but you might have a hard time getting a rich red on grey, brown works a lot better, and depending on your shade of purple (leaning towards more of a reddish purple than a blueish purple) a brown undershade might help a lot. It'd also help for the gold.
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Jan 14, 2021 01:48
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  Almost done with this chaplain! Just gotta finish the base, which unfortunately takes at least 8 hours to cure so I'll leave it for overnight.
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Jan 14, 2021 03:01
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Finished my first model of the year- a Flesh Tearers marine. 
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Jan 14, 2021 05:14
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After my slump the other day I feel a lot better about painting tonight. Happy with how this Yu Jing Daofei came out even though I definitely don't have the hang of sword effects, and can't seem to get a silky smooth coat on metal. Oh well, every day is a lesson  
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Jan 14, 2021 05:28
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I want to invest in some nicer brushes; what do people recommend? It seems Rosemary and Co. are well regarded.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:34
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Toebone posted:I want to invest in some nicer brushes; what do people recommend? It seems Rosemary and Co. are well regarded. I received this set from Game Envy for Christmas and they're excellent. The price is great too, 5 brushes for less than $50 and they're high quality, hold a razor sharp tip, and are just about perfect for me. Highly recommend.
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Jan 14, 2021 17:01
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Finished the chaplain! I realize they're supposed to be black, but oh well! 
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Jan 14, 2021 17:28
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Verisimilidude posted:Finished the chaplain! I realize they're supposed to be black, but oh well! Who cares about the chaplain color if it looks good? Besides, it's that base I'm in love with!
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Jan 14, 2021 17:57
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verisimilidude i am in constant awe of how much saturation you get into your minis. how do you do it
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Jan 14, 2021 18:10
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jesus WEP posted:verisimilidude i am in constant awe of how much saturation you get into your minis. how do you do it honestly the contrast paints give really nice saturation, especially over a zenithal prime or highlight. I've been trying to stick with saturated colors lately to really make the models pop on the tabletop. Here I've used fleshtearers red for the fabric and blood angels red for the crest, and over pure white and a zenithal they really explode.
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Jan 14, 2021 18:16
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Verisimilidude posted:Finished the chaplain! I realize they're supposed to be black, but oh well! This looks way better than a black armor chaplain. nice work!
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Jan 14, 2021 20:38
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Verisimilidude posted:honestly the contrast paints give really nice saturation, especially over a zenithal prime or highlight. I've been trying to stick with saturated colors lately to really make the models pop on the tabletop. Here I've used fleshtearers red for the fabric and blood angels red for the crest, and over pure white and a zenithal they really explode. I have a plan to do a kabal kill team using a white base and drybrushing on a bright metallic like Plate mail, hoping to catch the sharp edges, then apply a contrast paint like levadon blue. Hoping it does some interesting things.
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Jan 14, 2021 21:59
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The fancy dry brush channel artis opus guy also branched out into other stuff, even if you don't want the brushes it's honestly a good watch, but using thinned contrast as a glaze can really pop off.
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Jan 14, 2021 22:14
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Finished the model the other night, finished the base yesterday, ran to the store today after letting it dry over night to buy a new bottle glue because the cap was all caked over and it was unusable    Overall it was pretty easy to do, and I'm mostly happy with it so I guess I'm gonna stick with it. Really curious how vehicles will look... Unfortunately it's hard to distinguish some of the Actually Silver bits from the Metallic Green, but meh. It's fine in person.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:19
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Sab669 posted:Finished the model the other night, finished the base yesterday, ran to the store today after letting it dry over night to buy a new bottle glue because the cap was all caked over and it was unusable He looks rad! I like all the different colors, it definitely reads as Chaos to me (in a good way)!
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Jan 14, 2021 23:25
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Thanks!
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Jan 14, 2021 23:31
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Toebone posted:I want to invest in some nicer brushes; what do people recommend? It seems Rosemary and Co. are well regarded. Winsor and Newton Series 7 are the gold standard but Raphael 8404s are a little cheaper and also very good. Raphaels are softer while W&Ns got some spring in em
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Jan 15, 2021 02:40
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Just be careful where you order from. Amazon sent me a raphael 8404 loose in a rectangular box with no padding and no brush cap. It was not salvageable lol
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Jan 15, 2021 02:48
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I don't have pictures to share yet but I'm working on some Sigmar skellingtons to fungus up so I can use them as poxwalkers and I'm actually having a good time modelling again. The past year has sucked, especially in pharmacy, now that I know more co-workers who've caught the virus than not and management is sending me to towns two hours away for 6a-7p solo shifts all the time. It's been hard to have enthusiasm for anything. I'm pretty sure I caught a mild case that wrecked up my cardio under the table because I can't exercise or play my instruments at all anymore. Today I sculpted up some fungal bulbs and sporangium for their bases, ordered some spider serum to spray across the bases to resemble the rhizoid strands everywhere like the desert scenes in Nausicaa, and I'm feeling pretty good about it. I'm not actually skilled at it yet but it's nice to work on something, you know?
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Jan 15, 2021 03:05
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Figured out the smoothing issue with my airbrush. Paint on the chaplain came out very dry and rough, but still looks good regardless. This time around I lowered the PSI from 30 to 20 and doubled the amount of thinner I was using. Now it comes out ultra smooth, rather than faintly skunky like it did before. Getting these white scars to this point is very easy with this airbrush. The white on all 5 models took about 20 minutes, and then using contrast and silver gets them to the level of the sergeant in maybe another 20 minutes per model using all contrast with the exception of the silver.  
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Jan 15, 2021 05:02
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Booyah- posted:Just be careful where you order from. Amazon sent me a raphael 8404 loose in a rectangular box with no padding and no brush cap. It was not salvageable lol Hell even Dick Blick sent me some loose in a soft padded envelope with no brush cap. They were salvageable but I' thinking of getting W&N next time just because they come from the manufacturer in those plastic tubes.
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Jan 15, 2021 09:42
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 After a year...I have 1 reinforced Division almost done for Field of Glory Napoleonic. (More pictures and battle reports are on My blog. I still have the other units on order...they left England yesterday, so won't make it for tomorrow's tournament (my first ever Napoleonic one and first wargame one for over a decade). I still need to get some flags, paint the base edges and varnish them, but I can use them on the table now. Apart from one unit of18mm AB Portuguese, the rest are 18mm Stonewall Figures per-painted battalions (I put too dark Nuln Oil over them). For those like me with bad eye sight and worse painting, they are a god send. I decided I had too much difficulty telling the units apart so I put different amounts and colours of grass tuff on each brigade to make them stand out more. I don't expect to win any battles tomorrow, but I can always follow Napoleons tradition and style and claim victory in the battle reports afterwards. British Hussars, 95th Rifles, Loyal Lustrian Legion, Portuguese Line Infantry, Scottish Line Infantry and Portuguese Militia. Question about colour theory- what colour should I paint the base edges? Light brown? Dark brown? Black? Light Green? Dark Green? I think I should paint the army using all one colour to keep them together. I think if I use the grass tuffs of green and brown I end up with a base of tan. Comstar fucked around with this message at 12:51 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 12:38
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I got my Raphael 8404s from JacksonArt in the UK which took like aeons to get to me via snail mail but they came packaged securely and everything was great. I got my W&N Series 7 from the local fine arts store and those were great too (even the "test model" that was trashed was salvageable). Despite all this, I only use my Size 1 8404 for basically everything so those other brushes are kind of a waste until this brush falls apart.
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Jan 15, 2021 13:21
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Eej posted:I got my Raphael 8404s from JacksonArt in the UK which took like aeons to get to me via snail mail but they came packaged securely and everything was great. I got my W&N Series 7 from the local fine arts store and those were great too (even the "test model" that was trashed was salvageable). I think someone mentioned something about the quality on Series 7s having gone down a bit due to sable stock limitations, and the ones I bought last year - also from Jackson's - don't seem to be holding a point anywhere near as well as my last set. Funnily enough I also got that size one Raphael (they were out of W&N) and have used it for basically everything.
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Jan 15, 2021 16:12
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Master Lazarus Incoming    Realised I'd never painted a Dark Angel. Came together pretty quickly (for me anyway). I've always pictured Dark Angels as a bit grumpy and I think he is suitably pissy looking.
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Jan 15, 2021 17:37
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That's really nice. How'd you do the wings on the helmet?
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Jan 15, 2021 18:41
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Skarsnik posted:Master Lazarus Incoming Love the cloak and color choices! Everything meshes together very well.
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Jan 15, 2021 18:55
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Thank you both  The wings were administratum grey mixed with a bit of fenris grey. Shaded with fenris thinned with contrast medium , then a bit deeper in places with a small amount of black added to that mix. Both painted in, not washed over. Contrast medium is really good for targeted shading, it got used to shade the cloak too Then layer back up to administratum, and then a quick blend up to pure white. Probably only 3 bending layers? I think so anyway, I'm bad at remembering or sticking to recipes from model to model Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 19:17
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