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Thule stuff goes for gangbusters used. Buy used and it'll be like a free rental when you sell it for the same price you got it for.
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Jan 10, 2021 23:33
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There’s one (1) Thule rack for sale within 200 miles, and that one is 100 miles away and costs the same as a new oem. Yes, I live in the boonies. Waaaay out in the boonies.
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Jan 11, 2021 03:04
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Spime Wrangler posted:There’s one (1) Thule rack for sale within 200 miles, and that one is 100 miles away and costs the same as a new oem. Where are you located? I have a set from my old 2010 five door WRX sitting in my basement, but they probably wouldn’t be cheap to ship.
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Jan 11, 2021 06:40
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I am now the owner of a 2004 Forester XT 5MT and have fully become a lesbian. It is in shockingly good condition given the age and mileage, and since the seller is a certified car nut who also owns an EZ30 swapped SG Forester and is building his fourteenth Gallant VR4 it came with a ton of other spare parts he has collected. Some tasteful mods (downpipe and tune, STI pink springs and fresh struts, STI hood scoop, STI rear sway), fresh clutch, and the leakdown and compression test results were all good and really even across the whole engine...and I’m not afraid of engine work if it comes to that. Carfax shows frequent dealership service most of its life. It’s quick and quiet and comfy and quirky. Does anybody want to buy a GR OBS in decent shape mechanically and a beat up body?
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Jan 12, 2021 14:42
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i own every Bionicle posted:I am now the owner of a 2004 Forester XT 5MT and have fully become a lesbian. Nice you got the spoiler and the best tail lights. I love 04 XTs so much and miss mine so much. If you don't mind how much did it cost you?
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Jan 13, 2021 20:35
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shy boy from chess club posted:Nice you got the spoiler and the best tail lights. I love 04 XTs so much and miss mine so much. If you don't mind how much did it cost you? Thanks. The tail lights are actually swapped from an 07. I paid probably too much....7K despite the really high mileage on it. But having done a bunch of research, and checking the car out so closely, that seems to be what they go for now, and I have a little extra cash burning a hole in my pocket, so  If I take a bath on it when I get out of it that’s the price I paid to own the car I just had to have.
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Jan 13, 2021 21:27
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I dont think you'll take a bath on it - the 04 is the one holding it's value the best and I kinda think they might become a bit of cult car in the years to come. I'm looking for one with a blown motor as I have the driveline literally ready to drop in.
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Jan 14, 2021 00:20
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Yeah and it's not like mileage really matters on a car that old - if it hasn't been maintained its going to be junk anyway.
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Jan 14, 2021 02:09
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Thanks guys. Got a few small things to do to it...add a resistor to the EGT leads so the CEL goes away, fix a radiator support, tighten up a heatshield, and maybe throw some Sparco Terras on it with snow tires. Anybody know if this gauge pod is OEM? It fits and matches perfectly, and has boost in MPa, voltage, and coolant in C which are weird units for aftermarket. 
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Jan 14, 2021 14:06
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The pod is an OEM Subaru part. Gauges look original too. I think it was an optional dealer-installed part? https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-accessories_gauge_pack_turbo_with_housing-kith5010sa001.html Not sure if the ones sold in the US would be in freedom units or not, I'm having trouble finding decent pictures of ones that haven't been hacked up for aftermarket gauges. It's possible the PO grabbed one on eBay from another country if these did come in PSI/F units. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 15:01
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i own every Bionicle posted:I am now the owner of a 2004 Forester XT 5MT and have fully become a lesbian. Welcome to the club.   Bought mine from a fellow goon for $6000 almost a year ago. However, at no fault of the PO, between the turbo oil line bursting, the driveshaft breaking free, and the brake lines leaking, I've had to pour in almost an addition $2000. I attribute the driveshaft and brake issues to age (it has 220,000+ miles) and the region salting the gently caress out of the roads. Most of that money came from the brake job because the shop had to fabricate new lines as they couldn't source replacement lines. I did get brand new tools and jacks from when I replaced the driveshaft myself so it wasn't a total wash. Between all that, COVID, and trying to get it to pass NJ inspection which was a hassle due to the aftermarket exhaust, I was finally able to use it as my daily driver in November. Love driving it now when I can. I predominately work from home now so I have less opportunities to do so. I'm still getting used to driving stick as this is my first manual car but I'm getting there. I recently got into the habit of blipping the throttle when downshifting but I still need to work on my starts. I still dread driving up to a red lights and stopping on uphill inclines. Speaking of which, I'm noticing that the clutch starts to bite fairly high up in the clutch pedal's travel so I was wondering what is the best technique for starts with that in mind. Right now, I'm fully depressing the clutch when shifting which contributes to my problems with starts. I'm trying to quickly release the clutch to just before the bite point and then slowly release the clutch as I try to give it the right amount to throttle without giving too little and stalling out or too much and sound like an rear end in a top hat bouncing off the rev limiter while loving up the clutch. Potentially further compounding the issue is that I get off the clutch and brakes at the same time so, with a fully depressed clutch, there is a brief period where the car is free to roll at gravity's whim before the clutch starts to bite. I suppose I could start releasing the clutch first before getting off the brakes and then giving it gas but I don't know if that is the right technique. I want to get into the habit of using the right techniques so I don't prematurely wear out the clutch or break anything. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 15:38
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A smooth motion in releasing the clutch is preferred to hanging onto the edge of friction. Take offs take longer for some to learn than others, and it varies a little in every car. Fully depressing the clutch for shifts is not a big deal, you're not hurting anything and if it helps you maintain a practiced, smooth motion for take offs from stops, keep it up. Eventually when you feel confident to shift without the clutch, start with upshifts, 3rd to 4th, then 4th to 5th, then downshifts (where throttle blipping matters). I've been driving stick for 25 years and I still have bad habits, use the clutch when shifting a lot, especially 1-2 and 2-3 in my current 6 speed and very regularly on the downshifts. You're not hurting anything if you're not driving it like you stole it. If that's the original clutch (check your maintenance records), might start preparing to replace that. 200k+ miles is a stretch on a factory clutch, not unheard of, though.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:16
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STR posted:The pod is an OEM Subaru part. Gauges look original too. I think it was an optional dealer-installed part? I got it for mine to put gauges in too. I think it's for a stock Navi you can get JDM.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:35
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Edward IV posted:Welcome to the club. I was fortunate with this one as most of the wear items have been replaced...bushings, clutch, brakes, even the timing belt only has 30k on it. I have been driving stick a long time and I think the most helpful technique you can learn is heel-toe, as well as learning where the engagement point of the clutch is really well. With the mileage on your car it is possible it needs a clutch which will make your starts and shifts challenging. Every Subaru I have driven has great pedal placement for heel-toe. A good way to learn the engagement point is to just practice starting in first with no gas...just let up on the clutch really slowly until you feel it start to move. Then learn to heel-toe...just hang half your foot off the brake pedal and over the accelerator so when you rock your foot you give a little gas. Typically when I’m at a light or on stopped on an incline I’ll hold the car with the brakes while also giving a little gas and letting the clutch out until just before it starts to grab, then slip my foot off the brake and onto the gas while letting the clutch all the way out after it has started moving and the clutch is no longer slipping.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:50
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Uh, don't ever shift a syncronized transmission without the clutch. Even if you think you're doing it smoothly, even a small speed difference will absolutely fry the synchronizers in a short period of time. Anyway, keep the throttle in the same spot (say hold it at 1500-2000 rpm), and then only use the clutch, so you're only trying to coordinate what one foot is doing. And then yeah heel-toe downshifts are good to do and let you downshift smoothly while also braking, and be in gear and in the right gear while cornering and such.
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Jan 14, 2021 18:19
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jamal posted:Uh, don't ever shift a syncronized transmission without the clutch. Even if you think you're doing it smoothly, even a small speed difference will absolutely fry the synchronizers in a short period of time. I get why you say this, it's one of my developed bad habits from being a farm kid, but I've yet to nuke a transmission (couple engines yeah). Last I knew synchs are typically made of brass so any portion that slivers off is typically soft enough (compared to gears) to not damage the gears. You're going to get progressively worse gear grinding when they're worn down though, so you're definitely right. I was going to say, I want to see you tell this to a truck driver, but those transmissions typically don't have synchros and their engines don't wind up near as high rpms. Between farming grandparents and a truck driving dad, shifting without the clutch was pretty routinely drilled into me. So yeah, use your clutch. That's what it's there for. Also something about resting your hand on the shifter wearing out synchros as well, but again, never encountered it and I use my armrests. Seemed to be popular advice 15 years ago to keep your hand off the shifter unless you were shifting. Definitely had an old beater pickup on the farm you had to hold in 4th gear though.
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Jan 14, 2021 21:11
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I drove a beater Legacy where the throw out bearing shrieked like the souls of the damned at 180,000, so I put another 30,000 on it shifting with no clutch and rev matching. Somehow the synchros never started grinding. But nothing I did to that car should be done to any good cars (other than ripping donuts in snowy parking lots).
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Jan 14, 2021 21:39
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There is nothing wrong with not using a clutch on a synchro gearbox. It even extends the life as you are not putting a scrap of wear on the synchro rings when done right, because what actually happens is the gears will just fall into place. . Doing it badly is the problem. Shifting without the clutch needs skill, timing and mechanical understanding. So you go the skill? Do it. If you aren't up with doing it - and I expect very few driver now are - it's only really going to come in useful if your clutch dies so there's no real need to learn unless you want to drive an old Italian or British car. Driving clutchless in one of those is drat near requried.
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Jan 14, 2021 21:45
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This discussion reminds me of when the slave cylinder on my '84 F250 went out and I had to drive about 300 miles without being able to disengage the clutch. poo poo like that happens sometimes and you just need to be able to deal with it or accept the tow bill. Same truck, previous owner replaced the clutch but didn't use threadlock on the pressure plate bolts, and I was under it again a few months after replacing the slave cylinder and replacing the whole clutch assembly after two bolts walked back out. I initially thought it was the replacement slave cylinder going out again. Then I took the inspection cover off and two bolts fell out. Pressure plate was not keen on being forced back into place, so I ate the couple hundred bucks (6.9l diesel) and put in new poo poo in a dirt floor barn over beers with the farm hand. Still better than ever worrying about an automatic eating its' own clutch plates or losing checkballs while rebuilding a valve body or any of the million more annoying and complicated things about automatics that make me swear they run on black magick and voodoo.
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Jan 14, 2021 22:25
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Got my car back from the Subaru dealership yesterday and HOLY poo poo the CarMax warranty saved the day again. Went in to get my struts checked out and throw on the Whiteline swaybars I got myself as a Christmas gift. Get a call from the service rep a few hours later: Front struts are shot. Radiator is leaking. MAF sensor is shot. Battery terminals are on their way out Shifter bushings are shot. Bill ended up being $4000 (which included the labor for the swaybars, new battery and an oil change) and I walked out of there $800 out of pocket. I think at this point, the value of repairs done is quickly approaching the cost of the car and I've still got another 3 years and 30k miles of warranty remaining.  I just hope to god they have to do any clutch/transmission + head gasket work before it runs out.Edit: Oh right the swaybars rule. It makes it so much more stable at highway speeds and gives that "on rails" feeling ripping around town.
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Jan 14, 2021 22:36
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DevCore posted:Got my car back from the Subaru dealership yesterday and HOLY poo poo the CarMax warranty saved the day again. What year/model? 4K seems kind of absurd. At least with what I’m used to a radiator is a couple hundred bucks and about a half hour to replace, MAF is 100-150 and fifteen minutes, battery terminals are fifteen minutes and fifteen bucks, struts are more involved but a good shop should be able to knock it out in a couple hours (it would take my slow, overly cautious rear end a day). No idea on shifter bushings and with your specific car I don’t know how long sways would take. Are you sure clutch is covered under warranty since it’s a wear item?
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Jan 14, 2021 22:43
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Those two sliding surfaces of the synchronizer still get pushed up against each other and probably are not turning *EXACTLY* the same speed, even if it just "falls into gear." But now it's not just the input shaft and clutch disc that needs to get matched up- they have the weight and momentum of the whole rotating assembly with flywheel and clutch cover behind them. So think about how much wear happens, and how quickly, with even a tiny difference in speed compared to normal operation.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:02
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i own every Bionicle posted:What year/model? 4K seems kind of absurd. At least with what I’m used to a radiator is a couple hundred bucks and about a half hour to replace, MAF is 100-150 and fifteen minutes, battery terminals are fifteen minutes and fifteen bucks, struts are more involved but a good shop should be able to knock it out in a couple hours (it would take my slow, overly cautious rear end a day). No idea on shifter bushings and with your specific car I don’t know how long sways would take. It's a 2007 WRX wagon. I thought it was insane as well, but they are replacing all these with OEM parts so maybe that's why the parts cost was so high. Parts and labor, radiator was $566, MAF + air filter was $600, shifter bushings were $600, struts & mounts came in at a stifling $1160. As for warranty coverage I'm 95% sure that's covered. I really do hate the vague language used with these programs. "We cover everything but wear and tear items" Buddy, I got news for ya. Literally everything in the universe is wear and tear, please just give me an itemized list of items covered and not. CarMax are shits about labor too - they'll clock jobs at less hours than other shops and pass the difference to the customer. But gently caress em, they put me through some poo poo when I was buying this car, I don't want them to see another cent from me. DevCore fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 23:19
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Yeah, Subaru isn't exactly great at making enough spare parts. There's a law about parts for vehicles made in the last 10 years having to be available, but beyond that it's a crapshoot. Motorcycles are pretty bad about parts after a decade now, unless there's a mountain of NOS in a barn somewhere and they have commonality over a bunch of models. Try finding struts for a Baja. It's been dead 15 years now. That shouldn't take too long with searches in the right places, but they won't be Subaru parts, or they'll be adapters to use struts off Legacies. poo poo just doesn't exist after that decade window closes unless someone makes an aftermarket replacement, especially on lower volume cars.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:27
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There's really no reason to tell someone who is just learning to not use the clutch. Its not 1920 or 1970. Granted its a useful skill to know if your pedal is inop for whatever reason and you need to move... Like the others said, learning the engagement point and getting that muscle memory down is key. You work on timing the release from there, just learning the optimal times for speeds and rpm ranges.
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Jan 14, 2021 23:45
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Thanks for all the tips. I think there is some confusion about using the clutch to shift; I was actually asking whether I should be fully depressing the clutch pedal or depressing far enough past the engagement point when using the clutch. I figured the latter would be allow for faster starts since I can get to the engagement point quicker while slowly letting the clutch out. If I'm fully engaging the clutch, I feel like I have to quickly let the clutch out just before the engagement point and then slowly let it engage. If I'm too slow to the engagement point, I could start rolling or mess up my timing trying to cross or enter traffic. If I'm too fast, I could lug the engine or stall out. The only downside for partially engaging the clutch is that if I could upset the car and damage the clutch if I don't go past the engagement point. Regardless, I think I'll stick to fully depressing the clutch when using it and work out the muscle memory for the engagement point. As always, practice makes perfect. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 00:43
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jamal posted:Those two sliding surfaces of the synchronizer still get pushed up against each other and probably are not turning *EXACTLY* the same speed, even if it just "falls into gear." But now it's not just the input shaft and clutch disc that needs to get matched up- they have the weight and momentum of the whole rotating assembly with flywheel and clutch cover behind them. So think about how much wear happens, and how quickly, with even a tiny difference in speed compared to normal operation. The reality is that clutchless operation is not a wearfest unless you try to force operation.
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Jan 15, 2021 01:50
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I'm going to use the clutch pedal even though it squeaks.
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Jan 15, 2021 02:37
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hey is it a midlife crisis if i spent my teens drooling over the WRX/Evo rivalry, and now in my 30s bought a lovely Impreza L because it's all I could afford
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Jan 16, 2021 01:30
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Edward IV posted:Thanks for all the tips. I think there is some confusion about using the clutch to shift; I was actually asking whether I should be fully depressing the clutch pedal or depressing far enough past the engagement point when using the clutch. I figured the latter would be allow for faster starts since I can get to the engagement point quicker while slowly letting the clutch out. If I'm fully engaging the clutch, I feel like I have to quickly let the clutch out just before the engagement point and then slowly let it engage. If I'm too slow to the engagement point, I could start rolling or mess up my timing trying to cross or enter traffic. If I'm too fast, I could lug the engine or stall out. The only downside for partially engaging the clutch is that if I could upset the car and damage the clutch if I don't go past the engagement point. I’ve driven manuals for nearly 20 years and don’t know how to shift without the clutch or heel toe shift, and I always fully depress the clutch. The only really mandatory part of driving a stick is getting used to that engagement point
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Jan 16, 2021 04:22
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I have some Blizzaks mounted to some generic steel wheels that were used occasionally on my wife's 2016 wrx. I am in the DC area. Anyone interested in buying them cheap? They have 1/4" of tread on them, no patches, no TPM sensors either. Selling them as she has all seasons now.
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Jan 19, 2021 01:17
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Edward IV posted:Thanks for all the tips. I think there is some confusion about using the clutch to shift; I was actually asking whether I should be fully depressing the clutch pedal or depressing far enough past the engagement point when using the clutch. I figured the latter would be allow for faster starts since I can get to the engagement point quicker while slowly letting the clutch out. If I'm fully engaging the clutch, I feel like I have to quickly let the clutch out just before the engagement point and then slowly let it engage. If I'm too slow to the engagement point, I could start rolling or mess up my timing trying to cross or enter traffic. If I'm too fast, I could lug the engine or stall out. The only downside for partially engaging the clutch is that if I could upset the car and damage the clutch if I don't go past the engagement point. I mean you could get away with only pushing it just past the engagement point and shifting. There's 4000 opinions on why this is awful and will destroy everything and 4000 opinions on why this is fine with just a little extra wear and tear. And every transmission is a little different about that...so it's best to just forget all that and push it all the way down. The 6 speed in my spec b leggy is easier to shift smoothly if I don't push it allll the way down because it has closer gear ratios than the sti 6 speed for whatever reason. I do that only when I have passengers who get car sick in city traffic, which is basically never. Anyways, that's all different from car to car with flywheel weight, ecu programming, gear ratios, etc. that affect how fast the revs drop between shifts. Shoot I think the fancy Nissans have automatic rev matching programmed in, and the fancy porches just largely ignore your pedal input and apply the clutch as determined by the ecu. Everyone else has the right advice, engagement. Doing it a million times will just become automatic in your brain like breathing. like how you zone out driving home and don't know how you got there...
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Jan 20, 2021 18:15
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Wondering if anyone can give me advice on power window maintenance. I have a 2000 Impreza Outback Sport with 107000 miles. 2 of the windows are starting to move slow and develop scratches on the glass. From what I've researched the regulators wear out pretty fast and there's some felt pad that collects dirt for the scratches? I'm not opposed to just replacing stuff since I'd rather not open up all the doors more than once. I'd like to keep this car for a long time so I'm thinking I should get this done before parts become scarcer. Should I just replace the regulators or is there more to it?
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Jan 21, 2021 02:46
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I know this doesn't seem to be a thread so much for new cars, but thought I'd ask the Subaru cult for an opinion. We might be in the market for a new car. Presently driving an 2011 Legacy, total appliance car. 2.5 CVT. Not exactly a powerhouse but has been super reliable and great highway fuel economy... and... I don't actually hate the CVT. It does what it does OK and I've got a weekend car and bike for fun. 80%+ highway car with the odd little bit of commuting thrown in. Mrs. Slidebite wants a outback/wagon style next time. She likes the utility of a hatch and the idea of couple more inches ground clearance. We live where we can get a lot of snow, BUT, we also thaw a lot during the year so it's not uncommon to not have our subdivision roads plowed. At all. The clearance is nice and as our folks get older easier for them to get in and out when they are with us. We are just starting our research and considering a 21 Forester and a 21 Outback (Impreza based cars are smaller than we would like). Thoughts between the two? I noticed that the 2.5 still seems to be the standard power plant in both, slightly tweaked from my generation. Any problems with the engines? How about feedback on the vehicles in general? Also, I see a Turbo 2.4 available in the Outback (also with a CVT). What is the opinion of that? Worth the premium? We are pretty generic in our tastes and our Legacy is 2nd from the bottom tier so paying for an "XT" Outback would be just for the motor, and many other "improvements" like bigger wheels, sunroof, etc are actively not wanted.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:34
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Pretty sure the Forester and Outback have the same ground clearance. Outbacks are usually wider and longer than Foresters, though shorter in height. It's just preference at that point, do you want a wagon or an SUV? Because the drivetrain is the same.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:47
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We're kind of on the fence, need to drive both for that, but more curious about the engines. I have seen the Forester is classified as a "SUV" or "CUV" but for all intents and purposes I think they are pretty much the same niche IMHO... just that the Forester looks a smidgen smaller compared to the outback. I concur, the 2.5 and CVT seems to be the same between them, but I think the Turbo is only available in the Outback and not the Forester for some reason. I guess I'm mostly asking if there are any practical differences between the two both in usage or mechanically. I'm *probably* leaning towards the Outback just because we are familiar with the legacy and like it (the commonality with the Outback) but not sure if there is something obvious we are missing. I've seen that according to the VINs the Forester is made in Japan and the Outback in the US (as my Legacy was) - not sure if that is anything worthwhile to consider as our Legacy has had zero problems.
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Jan 31, 2021 17:13
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There's not enough difference in build quality between american and japanese builds to worry about. Mechanical difference between models amounts to a longer driveshaft in the Outback. The big to-do about the turbo engine is going to be more power, but there's almost always a price premium over msrp on XTs because of it, and it's generally a low production variant. I don't know enough about the turbo engine personally to say what flaws might pop up, but the engine has been around for some time, so I'd have faith that driving like a normal person would see similar lifespans to the FB25. I have an FB25 in my '13 Outback and while it still feels underpowered at times, it's more than capable of doing everything I want it to do. If I was buying new, I'd personally want the turbo engine, until I see the price. But if that wasn't a factor, yes, all day.
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Jan 31, 2021 17:53
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I'd be Outback anyday. It's just simply a better vehiclequote:Also, I see a Turbo 2.4 available in the Outback (also with a CVT). What is the opinion of that? Worth the premium? Well I have a 2 litre turbo + CVT Levorg so it's kinda similar and yes I would go for the turbo version in a heartbeat. The FA24 turbo is a newish motor so it's a bit of an unknown however the FA20 turbo is decent enough to wake up the car. I dont feel I'm lacking for power and it's an engine not stressed for cruising long distances. Also def covers up some of the CVT's sins.
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Jan 31, 2021 22:23
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OK... Thanks for the input guys. We're going to chew on this.
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Feb 1, 2021 03:20
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Personally I'd get the new 2.4L turbo Outback (probably the Onyx), but I like vroom vroom. Do you? Impressive that they've managed 30 MPG highway @ 260 HP w/ AWD on something as big as an Outback. Really just depends on how much you value the extra horsies, worth a test drive if you aren't sure. No idea if the CVT ruins it or not though.
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Feb 1, 2021 06:34
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