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Lungboy posted:I've taken the plunge and ordered a Sapphire Pro. I hope I've not made a big mistake not sticking to something more straightforward like the Ender but live and learn! The printer I bought from Zyltech earlier last year turned out to be a rebranded Two Trees machine (not a Sapphire, not sure exactly what model) and it was absolutely fine right out of the box. I ended up buying something a little big bigger later on and gave the Zyltech to a friend this past Christmas, but if I hadn't been in the market for the larger machine I'd have been happy to keep that one. Perfectly serviceable machine, and I imagine the Sapphire is probably of equal quality or better. I think you'll be just fine with it.
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Jan 15, 2021 19:17
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Went ahead and rewired the wire harness ( To my Wife's chagrin ) and while it looks messy since I didn't have a tone of space, and the wire strippers I have don't go low enough for these poo poo wires, electrical tape and a steady hand, I have a mess of tape and a working Ender 3 with BL Touch. However, the configuration is HELLA wrong, so it's almost a full 1/4 inch off the bed when it triggers. At least I'm closer!
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Jan 15, 2021 19:41
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Based on this image along I'm going to say it's going to be hilarious. Oh no
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Jan 15, 2021 20:33
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3d print some high heel shoes and see how long it takes someone to break their ankle.
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Jan 15, 2021 20:36
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does anybody here have any information/experience with electroplating onto prints, more specifically electroforming copper for mechanical instead of aesthetic purposes? I've been reading a lot of academic/research literature about rapid prototyping/rapid tooling processes that integrate SLA printing, and something that keeps coming up is electroplating a thick shell of copper or nickel over prints to produce functional composite parts. It makes them dramatically stronger (to the tune of, for example, iirc 5-10x better shear strength depending on material and plating thickness), reduces part-on-part friction significantly so close-fitting assemblies are more viable, it eliminates creep over time, and it prevents UV degradation of the resin underneath. It seems to address essentially all of the downsides of SLA parts, and makes them more suitable for use in mechanically-demanding applications. I remember posting some big infoposts about it months ago when I first ran into it and it put hooks in my brain. Along with buying my Mars Pro i've also been accumulating the materials and equipment for operating an 'acid copper' plating bath, all I'm missing is a jigger of battery acid for the electrolyte, so I'm planning on experimenting with this from the get-go. But in the off chance anybody's personally tried plating printed parts i'd love to pick your brain b/c there isn't a ton of non-academic info out there that i can find.
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Jan 15, 2021 20:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:does anybody here have any information/experience with electroplating onto prints, more specifically electroforming copper for mechanical instead of aesthetic purposes? I've been reading a lot of academic/research literature about rapid prototyping/rapid tooling processes that integrate SLA printing, and something that keeps coming up is electroplating a thick shell of copper or nickel over prints to produce functional composite parts. It makes them dramatically stronger (to the tune of, for example, iirc 5-10x better shear strength depending on material and plating thickness), reduces part-on-part friction significantly so close-fitting assemblies are more viable, it eliminates creep over time, and it prevents UV degradation of the resin underneath. It seems to address essentially all of the downsides of SLA parts, and makes them more suitable for use in mechanically-demanding applications. I remember posting some big infoposts about it months ago when I first ran into it and it put hooks in my brain. I do seem to remember someone in this thread doing it, but don't remember what page it was on (and all of 2020 was kinda weird anyway).
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Jan 15, 2021 21:01
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biracial bear for uncut posted:3d print some high heel shoes and see how long it takes someone to break their ankle. I want to say this was Naomi Wu's like "breakout" thing. "Hacker shoes" or something? At least that's where I first found her. Yup: https://imgur.com/gallery/c4WNF Followed by all the "it's all her boyfriends work". *shakes head*
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Jan 15, 2021 21:12
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thanks for the tip, got a couple old leads  Rapulum_Dei posted:First attempt at electroforming went ok. JEEVES420 posted:Learning how to do a Copper plating onto ABS using Copper sulfate solution and electricity in a few weeks
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Jan 15, 2021 21:14
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Lungboy posted:I've taken the plunge and ordered a Sapphire Pro. I hope I've not made a big mistake not sticking to something more straightforward like the Ender but live and learn! All3dp said it's alright. https://all3dp.com/1/two-trees-sapphire-pro-review-3d-printer-specs/ Upsides are a bondtech clone extruder, 32 bit controller with tmc 2208 drivers, corexy kinematics, linear rails. Downsides will probably just be that there won't be a huge community with advice if you have issues but I'm sure there will be some community for it. I won't use facebook so I miss out on a lot of those groups.
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Jan 15, 2021 21:33
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I see myfordboy use a Sapphire Pro pretty regularly in his videos. Here's his video about tuning it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoaY8YRberk
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Jan 15, 2021 21:49
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Nerobro posted:I want to say this was Naomi Wu's like "breakout" thing. "Hacker shoes" or something? At least that's where I first found her. Yup: https://imgur.com/gallery/c4WNF Followed by all the "it's all her boyfriends work". *shakes head* Those are loving awesome! She's got such a great attitude - it's lovely thing she had to go through that whole mess with people insisting she couldn't be the one designing anything.  Naomi Wu posted:So I spent this month hitting the books (well web pages) watching lots of videos and learning a bit about information security and penetration testing (I wonder how many idiot jokes that phrase is going to cause…). 
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Jan 15, 2021 21:53
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Anyone know if Its dumb to use resin printed parts for anything around heat? Looking into printing a petsfang cooler for my ender 3 from my Elagoo mars pro. I figure if I'm looking for precision/heat tolerance then my abs-like resin probably beats out PLA, potentially even Petg in some ways
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Jan 15, 2021 23:42
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Sagebrush posted:yeah sorry the photo is kind of lovely. the 3D printed part is inside, perhaps acting as some sort of shade for one of the LED modules. This just tells me the layer height queens aren't in the right. Aircraft parts sell at 300um baby! I'd be more concerned about the FAA approval of that plastic. It doesn't look like Ultem 9085, so I wonder what it is?
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Jan 15, 2021 23:58
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Ender 3 for $165 (plus a $10 newegg giftcard) sold on newegg by "Dodocool": https://www.newegg.com/p/288-00AJ-000E5?sdtid=14773624&item=9SIANRBBZB5099 I wouldn't trust returns to Dodocool, but considering how much info there is about fixing Ender 3 shipping issues if you want one that's a good price.
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Jan 16, 2021 00:22
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone know if Its dumb to use resin printed parts for anything around heat? I know that they make specific resins for high temperature applications, so I'm not sure how well using a standard one would work.
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Jan 16, 2021 00:23
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insta posted:This just tells me the layer height queens aren't in the right. Aircraft parts sell at 300um baby! Why would it need to be Ultem? Shitloads of aircraft parts are made of ABS, Nylon, and other common engineering plastics. It's probably ASA from a Stratasys. I've seen that funny sparse grid infill pattern on parts from those machines before.
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Jan 16, 2021 00:55
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Thanks everyone for the messages, although high heels aren't right at the top of my list of things to make i'm afraid.bred posted:I see myfordboy use a Sapphire Pro pretty regularly in his videos. Here's his video about tuning it up: This is very handy, thanks, although it makes me want to buy a pillar drill and milling machine for the garage now.
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Jan 16, 2021 01:16
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e: wrong thread. i cant get rid of the attachment but it's pretty good so that's ok by me
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 02:04
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It's there a fillament that's A good fit for being immersed in an aquarium? I want to make some custom intakes for the filter, so ideally good at resisting freshwater, safe for fish (no leaching), and durable w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 05:27
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PETG is a close cousin to coke bottle plastic, so it should work well for those conditions.
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Jan 16, 2021 05:33
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Lungboy posted:Thanks everyone for the messages, although high heels aren't right at the top of my list of things to make i'm afraid. The main thing I don't like about the Sapphire Pro is the way the bed is mounted. I think some of the ringing issues reported has to do with that setup not being as stable as it could be. Otherwise reviews seems decent for what it is?.
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Jan 16, 2021 05:33
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biracial bear for uncut posted:PETG is a close cousin to coke bottle plastic, so it should work well for those conditions. Im reading that Petg prints are hydrophobic, but Petg filament is hydroscopic? Food safe Petg would be perfect if that's the case. No need to seal it or anything
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Jan 16, 2021 05:42
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The layer lines are what make it not food safe long term, not the base material (because nooks and such for bacteria/mold to start growing in if not cleaned out properly).
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Jan 16, 2021 09:34
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I got a Creality BL touch kit for my Ender5 today. Installed it, found the magic firmware file which works for my printer, hooked it up and got it working. But I can’t set the Z offset low enough, and it stops at -0.995. This still gives me about 5-10mm gap between my bed and the nozzle and the bed raised all the way. I’m guessing I just got some Z struts that are longer than usual as even in the stock limit-swit h configuration I had to extend the bed a long way out, and dial the z-stop knob all the way in. What are my options for fixing this? Is it just a case of recompiling Marlin with a different limit? Is there a way to get the stock marlin configuration for the Ender5? [Edit] what’s the difference between the SKR mini e3 and the skr turbo? Seems like it’d be worth spending the extra £10 to possibly upgrade to a dual extruder in the future. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 12:07
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Any UK recommendations for PLA and PETG, preferably not from Amazon?
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Jan 16, 2021 13:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The layer lines are what make it not food safe long term, not the base material (because nooks and such for bacteria/mold to start growing in if not cleaned out properly). Awesome. Should be fine in an aquarium then
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Jan 16, 2021 16:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:does anybody here have any information/experience with electroplating onto prints, more specifically electroforming copper for mechanical instead of aesthetic purposes? I've been reading a lot of academic/research literature about rapid prototyping/rapid tooling processes that integrate SLA printing, and something that keeps coming up is electroplating a thick shell of copper or nickel over prints to produce functional composite parts. It makes them dramatically stronger (to the tune of, for example, iirc 5-10x better shear strength depending on material and plating thickness), reduces part-on-part friction significantly so close-fitting assemblies are more viable, it eliminates creep over time, and it prevents UV degradation of the resin underneath. It seems to address essentially all of the downsides of SLA parts, and makes them more suitable for use in mechanically-demanding applications. I remember posting some big infoposts about it months ago when I first ran into it and it put hooks in my brain. Formlabs have a handful of white papers on it and I attended a webinar last year about it https://formlabs.com/blog/electroplating-3d-printed-parts-high-performance-antennas/
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Jan 16, 2021 17:41
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Sagebrush posted:Why would it need to be Ultem? Shitloads of aircraft parts are made of ABS, Nylon, and other common engineering plastics. Strict smoke evolution and V0 flame requirements, but maybe that's only inside the cabin.
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Jan 16, 2021 19:24
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The layer lines are what make it not food safe long term, not the base material (because nooks and such for bacteria/mold to start growing in if not cleaned out properly). Good news! That makes it arguably better for an aquarium.
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Jan 16, 2021 19:24
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NewFatMike posted:Formlabs have a handful of white papers on it and I attended a webinar last year about it nice, thanks. i think i’m also gonna reach out to some of the researchers who’ve done stuff that’s the closest to what i’m interested in and ask for resources, lots of academics making bespoke RF antennas/waveguides and the like but mechanically-oriented applications seem a lot rarer.
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Jan 16, 2021 19:42
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i was kind of hoping to not gouge the poo poo out of the build table with literally the rook test print, but i guess not. i know to use a plastic scraper i have no excuse 
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Jan 17, 2021 03:00
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w00tmonger posted:Im reading that Petg prints are hydrophobic, but Petg filament is hydroscopic? Hygroscopic is the ability to absorb water out of the air. Hydrophobic is that water placed on its surface will bead up, its opposite is hydrophilic. They're independent, and something could be both hydrophobic and hygroscopic. (Hydroscopic refers to viewing things under water. Think reverse periscope.) Sagebrush has a good effort post on food safety of printing, but the short version is that food safety has almost nothing to do with the polymer. Sagebrush posted:^^^^^^
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Jan 17, 2021 03:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i was kind of hoping to not gouge the poo poo out of the build table with literally the rook test print, but i guess not. i know to use a plastic scraper i have no excuse It’s fine. Really. The plastic scraper can’t handle it. I ruined my plastic scraper on my first print. It’s more for the FEP.
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Jan 17, 2021 04:45
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Doctor Zero posted:It’s fine. Really. The plastic scraper can’t handle it. I ruined my plastic scraper on my first print. It’s more for the FEP. I was worried that the gouges might throw off the effective base plane for the pixels overlapping them, but i guess it’s the FEP that defines the curing boundary; the base layer over gouges just gets supported by the adjacent cured resin? I do plan on using a steel scraper to take the burr off so it doesn’t act like a hook for prints cured around it. This might be a good application for a copper scraper, softer than the aluminum to limit scratching but holds an edge better than a stiff plastic scraper will. Might knock one out and see if it’s worthwhile. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jan 17, 2021 |
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Jan 17, 2021 05:39
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Aurium posted:Hygroscopic is the ability to absorb water out of the air. Hydrophobic is that water placed on its surface will bead up, its opposite is hydrophilic. They're independent, and something could be both hydrophobic and hygroscopic. So food safe wise from digging around PETG should be good to go. Going to come down to long term durability in the water. Other than that it sounds like printing with a brass nozzle may also be problematic due to introducing copper to the water. This can really gently caress up invertebrates so I need to do a bit more reading on that front
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Jan 17, 2021 05:56
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w00tmonger posted:So food safe wise from digging around PETG should be good to go. Going to come down to long term durability in the water. Basically every pure polymer ever can be made foodsafe, and going even further, safe to eat. They're very large molecules that are incredibly difficult to digest or even absorb. That they can be safe doesn't matter. In actual use polymers are mixed with plasticizers. These are much smaller molecules that vary between essentially benign, and awful. Filament manufacturers probably aren't using the awful ones (awful ones get phased out of general use pretty quickly), but they might be using mediocre ones on the grounds that it's not like you're sucking on it. In actual use polymers are mixed with colorants. These run the gamut between completely safe, and hope you like lead. Using too much of the wrong colorant has lead to toy recalls. Plastics destined for food safe applications are stored, handled, and worked with more care than ones without. It's a much bigger deal if some machine oil is spilled on plastic for forks, as opposed to plastic for filament. All that said, it's almost certainly fine to do what you want to do; but saying it's petg so it's good because it's also used in food applications does not hold.
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Jan 17, 2021 07:19
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What's a good slicer for a complete beginner? It seems to be between Cura, Prusa and Simplify3d, and I have no idea what the pros and cons of each are.
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Jan 17, 2021 12:17
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Lungboy posted:What's a good slicer for a complete beginner? It seems to be between Cura, Prusa and Simplify3d, and I have no idea what the pros and cons of each are. Cura and Prusaslicer are the ones to use. If you're new I'd probably use Prusaslicer because while Cura has some features it doesn't (and vice-versa), Prusa seems to be working on feature parity for stuff Cura has and it doesn't, and is developing a little faster than Cura at the moment. I use Cura because I've been using it for three years and I'm used to it but will probably change when it lacks something I want. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz2Soog4HkQ Simplify3d costs $150 and while it was a good option >3 years ago when other slicers weren't as good, its development seems to have stopped and the others have caught up.
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Jan 17, 2021 12:32
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As a years-long Cura user as well, largely out of inertia because it's what I know best and has always met my needs, it looks like this latest 2.3 version of PrusaSlicer is what's finally going to make me jump ship. I've been playing with the new paint-on supports and oh my god it's absolutely brilliant. Custom supports are the one thing that Cura's been lacking for a very long time. There is a plugin that adds some functionality, but it's clunky as hell and hard to get the supports sized and positioned right. In PrusaSlicer, it's exactly as simple as the name implies... you literally just paint on the areas where you want support and it puts them there. That's not the only reason that it's a nice piece of software, because it kind of just is anyway, but it's an *extremely* compelling one.
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Jan 17, 2021 13:23
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Lungboy posted:What's a good slicer for a complete beginner? It seems to be between Cura, Prusa and Simplify3d, and I have no idea what the pros and cons of each are. I use Simplify 3d and I love it because it's easy to use, and it just works,, but honestly I can't recommend it due to the price tag. There's just not enough there that justify the cost.
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Jan 17, 2021 14:30
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