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God I hate Atlas lifts. It looks like they've improved somewhat (single point of release). But lifting the same vehicle on my friends Atlas vs my Rotary always felt so sketchy. They were overbuilt to compensate for the crappy steel they used, but in all the wrong ways.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 04:21 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 13:43 |
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This one is popular on garage journal? They do make lighter and cheaper ones, this is the 10k extra tall, extra wide. And yes, I have a friend who has the appropriate drill and bits, and I have a tractor loader and rated slings.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 04:42 |
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angryrobots posted:This one is popular on garage journal? They do make lighter and cheaper ones, this is the 10k extra tall, extra wide. I unloaded mine with an engine hoist and a strap to the ceiling I definitely don't recommend that. Did you drill sounding holes for thickness? I know some folks have run into trouble there. I have the Elite lift it's...fine. no real complaints other than needing to unlock each side individually. StormDrain posted:I love and hate the manual 8" Eastwood one I got. It's easy to use and did some great flanging for me. There is a lot of setup to it, and you'll need like three hand tools ready to adjust various points. Also my left hand was always sore from applying pressure to make the bend happen. Thanks for the input, I think I'm going to spring for a powered one. I've never run a manual one before and I don't think this is the time to start.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 04:56 |
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bird cooch posted:Did you drill sounding holes for thickness? I know some folks have run into trouble there. Nah, my shop is a commercial steel building with a 6" slab. It actually had a 2 post lift originally, but it got removed between owners at some point. It also had a single post cantilevered crane built into the floor, but I guess someone didn't want that either so I have a 6" steel-sleeved hole between the bays where they oxy torched it off. I considered sleeving it back together, but I think one of those rolling gantry cranes discussed in your thread would be more useful and less in the way. Guess I should fix that hole in the floor.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 05:14 |
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bird cooch posted:
Good choice. The manual ones aren't hard to turn or anything, but does require one hand on the crank. So you have starts and stops plus the other hand has to do all the aligning and downward pressure if it's a bend.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 14:52 |
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StormDrain posted:Good choice. The manual ones aren't hard to turn or anything, but does require one hand on the crank. So you have starts and stops plus the other hand has to do all the aligning and downward pressure if it's a bend. Yeah, I ended up knocking something together from a random gearmotor and some bicycle parts to power my manual one, it is a lot less of a pain in the rear end now!
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 16:35 |
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Trying to hunt down a couple things: 1. A set of round cups for use with my shop press that doesn't cost megabucks. 2. A decent ball joint press tool: the HF one isn't going to cut pressing out ball joints on my girlfriends '93 XJ or even on my '13 silverado when the time comes to do them.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 01:55 |
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Dacheat posted:Trying to hunt down a couple things: Hf impact sockets.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:04 |
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The HF kit worked great on my (2000/1997 XJ). I think there’s a 4wd and non-4wd version, did you maybe have the non?
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:22 |
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Suburban Dad posted:Hf impact sockets. need bigger, like 3" or more diameter
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:25 |
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Krakkles posted:The HF kit worked great on my (2000/1997 XJ). I think there’s a 4wd and non-4wd version, did you maybe have the non? more like i need something with a better C-Press as it's going to end up with the milwaukee nutfucker 9000 on it most likely.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:26 |
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Seconding krakkles statement, I've been doing balljoints on XJs in the rust belt with a harbor freight kit plus the 4wd adapter set since... 2010 I think. Make sure you grease the poo poo out of the threads on the press and use the hammer trick and they go remarkably smoothly, usually takes me about 30 to 45 minutes a side with no power tools.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:28 |
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kastein posted:Seconding krakkles statement, I've been doing balljoints on XJs in the rust belt with a harbor freight kit plus the 4wd adapter set since... 2010 I think. Make sure you grease the poo poo out of the threads on the press and use the hammer trick and they go remarkably smoothly, usually takes me about 30 to 45 minutes a side with no power tools. thanks for filling me in, i'm used to CJ/SJ D30s/D44s where the ball joint is in the knuckle and i can take it to the press.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 02:30 |
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Given the lengthy discussions IIT about jackstands I thought this was relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjmXQNhKCks
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 22:56 |
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Pretty sure the first jackstand is from Biltema (Swedish harbour freight) as they look almost exactly like the ones I have. Glad to see they performed well.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 07:51 |
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Can someone clarify the Milwaukee Impact Wrench line up? I have both M12 and M18 batteries and a driver. I also have both 3/8 and 1/2 impact socket sets. Looking for something for lug nuts and other home automotive stuff. Looking at acme and Home Depot there seem to be a ton of options, and the specs seem similar between both drive sizes. Any benefit of choosing one size over the other?
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 21:25 |
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3/8 will fit in many places 1/2 won't, especially if you get the stubby. 1/2 is for stuff like Honda crank bolts.
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 21:46 |
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First question is what kind of work you are doing?
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 21:51 |
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The M12 3/8 stubby impact will top out on a good clean lug nut and won't quite be enough for a dirty / rusted nut. It is vastly lighter in the hand than any M18 tool, and has much better clearance than the old longer 3/8 impact. It is great for most crank bolts. Strongly recommend pairing it with a set of the Astro Pneumatic nano impact sockets. The M18 1/2 mid torque will take care of nearly anything else on a car as long as you've got the room. Haven't done a Honda crank bolt yet but it zips rusty lug nuts and axle nuts off like nothing. Worth noting you won't get full power out of it unless you use at least a 2P battery (5Ah or more), the compact 1P battery won't quite deliver enough amps. It's heavy and it's large so if you have the M12 stubby, this thing won't be in your hands unless you need it. I think if you need anything more than the M18 mid torque, you're either working on big trucks or playing a game of "will it snap" with really rusty fasteners.
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 22:20 |
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Milwaukee released updated versions of the M18 compact and mid torque as well, they're both worth checking out.
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 22:31 |
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Thanks everyone. I found this video that helped review the two mentioned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W90nXM77w5U I think I’ll go stubby m12 for now. Thanks for the 3/8 req, makes sense.
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# ? Jan 3, 2021 00:00 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Worth noting you won't get full power out of it unless you use at least a 2P battery (5Ah or more), the compact 1P battery won't quite deliver enough amps. It's heavy and it's large so if you have the M12 stubby, this thing won't be in your hands unless you need it. Both of my batteries are somewhat older XC4.0ah, I think.
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# ? Jan 3, 2021 01:21 |
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I forgot those existed. Should be fine, limiting factor seems to be lack of paralleled cells and a 4Ah pack should still be a 2P pack. There's no obvious difference in performance - it's not like it's spinning way faster with the bigger pack. Multiple times now I've been working with a compact battery on it to save weight. I'll come across a fastener it just can't bust loose for anything. Swap batteries with one of my big ones and it pops off.
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# ? Jan 3, 2021 05:16 |
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Lowes is dumping the unloved 41" and 54" Craftsman 3000 series toolboxes for not very much money. Their website no longer lists them, but stores that still have them have priced them at 50% of retail, which puts them in a much cheaper category of tool chest. My local store only had the 41" left, but it was $350 for the base, and $250 for the top box.
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# ? Jan 3, 2021 23:25 |
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Just picked up a rack of the Astro Nano 3/8 impact sockets. They're a little shorter than the regular ones I have, not life changing but enough I can imagine where the difference matters though. The flats to wrench on them seem nice. I like that they come on a rack too.
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# ? Jan 11, 2021 00:49 |
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Top tip: always convert your shop vac back to "suck" instead of "blow" before putting it away. It's much easier than trying to clean up fine sawdust all over the loving room.
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# ? Jan 13, 2021 18:43 |
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Suburban Dad posted:Top tip: always convert your shop vac back to "suck" instead of "blow" before putting it away. It's much easier than trying to clean up fine sawdust all over the loving room. I was helping a neighbor do a valve cover gasket and once we had the cover off I told him to grab the shop vac and suck up all the crap he could now reach around the head. He hooked up the blow side. VRRRRRRRRR gently caress
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 21:57 |
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honda whisperer posted:I was helping a neighbor do a valve cover gasket and once we had the cover off I told him to grab the shop vac and suck up all the crap he could now reach around the head. Ouch. Ok, that's worse.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 00:27 |
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Did my first oil change with a fluid extractor and this poo poo is as easy as getting gas. Extremely worth it.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 00:28 |
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Especially when you can remove the filter from the top, too. Takes away all the worst parts of doing an oil change.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 00:43 |
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um excuse me posted:Did my first oil change with a fluid extractor and this poo poo is as easy as getting gas. Extremely worth it. What brand/model did you get? I'll be needing to pick one up later this year.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 02:07 |
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How effective are they at removing? As well as leaving the plug off for a while?
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 04:15 |
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I've found that it's pretty loving good at getting everything out. I've used mine on three cars and double checked two of them by removing the drain plug after extraction and very, very little oil came out.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 04:19 |
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Mine was this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N7XC7DM/ Once it's pumped down you just walk away for 20 mins. You come back and its full. I shove the hose down again and I pump it down one more time to make sure I get the slurping noises indicating the level is below the extractor. Pull it out and put in new oil. Taking care to note how much you add, you should be able to subtract that from the vehicle's rated oil capacity to know how much old oil is left. Once your satisfied the old oil is poured out from the same port you attached the hose to. Simple.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 06:09 |
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Noob question about oil changes - if you go to a place like jiffy lube (or whatever oil change place mandated to accept oil) to dispose of oil, they let you just pour it out from your container then leave right? I've been to a few recycling/dumps and their oil policy is you leave your container there, which is no loving bueno when those things can be so expensive.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 09:57 |
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tuna posted:Noob question about oil changes - if you go to a place like jiffy lube (or whatever oil change place mandated to accept oil) to dispose of oil, they let you just pour it out from your container then leave right? I've been to a few recycling/dumps and their oil policy is you leave your container there, which is no loving bueno when those things can be so expensive. In my experience with Advance Auto, Autozone, and O'Reilly they will usually tell you to go dump it yourself in the bigass container in the back of the store. At most, I have once had them ask me to fill out a log of what I was disposing of while they dumped it themselves. They don't want to talk to me any more than I want to talk to them. The one time I went to drop off a rubbermaid bin full of coolant to a radiator shop they asked if I minded just leaving the whole thing so they could dump it later. Might be a mechanic vs store thing.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 10:09 |
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Cat Hatter posted:In my experience with Advance Auto, Autozone, and O'Reilly they will usually tell you to go dump it yourself in the bigass container in the back of the store. At most, I have once had them ask me to fill out a log of what I was disposing of while they dumped it themselves. They don't want to talk to me any more than I want to talk to them. Ah ok thanks. I never knew O'reillys etc had to do this too, this makes it more convenient to dispose of oil too.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 10:33 |
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In exchange for useful answers I guess I'll post some tool updates of my own: New year, new welder! Upgraded because I'm really interested in pulse spray transfer mig, which has so many benefits over short-circuit that I'd be stupid not to. It's also multiprocess so I can eventually ease my way into tig. So far I've only done a few tests welding 2" .120 notched tube together in pulsed spray, cut and etched to see where I should be going for settings. The spray transfer sound is cool. I also cranked it up to max IPM and welded some 3/8ths inch plate for funsies. It's only a 220 (and less in spray mig with 030 wire), but it puts out just so much heat, its insane. In the background on the very left you can barely see the evo chop saw which is fantastic, however I really pushed the limits of the size of workpiece in the clamp today (way too small), and had it launch out of the grips and break a bearing off the cast alloy part that opens the blade guard as you lower it . Some jb-weld is curing overnight to get that part working again and I've learned my lesson. I'm very respectful of the energies involved in this device in general and having a 4" length of quater wall 1.5" DOM tube launch out of it, smash some alloy, and spin at about 700rpm on the floor in front of me for a minute was an awesome and terrfying realization of the energy in this tool. As an aside, I got a decimal inch ruler because converting gauge, decimal and fractions was getting boring. Does anyone sell a fractional metric ruler? This would complete my collection. Telling someone I need 1 and 7/16ths centimeter would be glorious. tuna fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Jan 18, 2021 |
# ? Jan 18, 2021 10:56 |
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tuna posted:Ah ok thanks. I never knew O'reillys etc had to do this too, this makes it more convenient to dispose of oil too. If your walmart has an auto center they take it too. Just drop it off on the counter and fill out the log. After hours they just usually leave the clipboard out. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jan 18, 2021 |
# ? Jan 18, 2021 14:37 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 13:43 |
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In a pinch you can lob your used oil jugs through the windows of your local republican party headquarters.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 14:41 |