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pffft lots of tread left, just send it.
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 04:34 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 13:54 |
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I don't see any cords showing. Still has another 2 track days in it.
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 04:36 |
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Flip em
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 06:09 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Flip em I did this with my RE71s and inexplicably went faster. Perhaps that says more about my driving consistency in general but I was surprised.
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 14:51 |
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Frond posted:I did this with my RE71s and inexplicably went faster. Perhaps that says more about my driving consistency in general but I was surprised. RE71R have some sort of magic where they look completely worn out and end up faster.
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 16:32 |
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KillHour posted:I don't see any cords showing. Still has another 2 track days in it. If I was going to go back out to my local learning track I totally could. Just swap right to left and visa versa. It's all left handers anyways. BlackMK4 posted:Flip em I'm curious if you guys flip tires even if they have outside / inside indicators on them?
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 02:24 |
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asymmetric tires have inside/outside on them (falken azenis for example), you can just rotate the tires on the car in the usual fashion directional tires you have to dismount and reinstall; they don't have inside/outside on them
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 02:31 |
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Diametunim posted:I'm curious if you guys flip tires even if they have outside / inside indicators on them? I have there are two caveats to this: 1. Some newer tires are multicompound like motorcycle tires have been for a while, so flipping probably wouldn't be a great idea for those 2. May impact rain performance but who cares
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 02:43 |
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Yeah frequently the inside of the tread is a harder compound while the outside shoulders are softer. Directional tread is mostly there for clearing water and in the dry it doesn't matter. I'd definitely consider some alignment/suspension setup changes on that one though.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 02:57 |
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Totally run tires backwards to squeak the last bit of life out of them. The right rear on a honda is where used up tires go to die. At least on mostly right hand corner tracks.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 03:00 |
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I had a suspicion that it was a Miata, but didn't see it mentioned explicitly. Fix your suspension lol
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 03:03 |
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jamal posted:Yeah frequently the inside of the tread is a harder compound while the outside shoulders are softer. Directional tread is mostly there for clearing water and in the dry it doesn't matter. Yeah those are what my tires used to look like tracking my 911SC and I would have to flip the tires on the wheels to get more track time. Modern street/track tires were too much for the chassis so I had to stiffen the whole thing and add oodles of camber. It ended up being balanced once I was up about 2.5 degrees negative in the rear. I have to cut holes in the body to add more anti-sway and I don't wanna do it. :'( Edit: In actuality those look better than mine did, they were almost like someone had taken a cheese grater to just the tire's shoulder. Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 18, 2021 |
# ? Jan 18, 2021 18:06 |
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For the curious, here's the other corners. Looking at my spreadsheets, these tires have 2,695 miles on them total, 2,080 miles are street, and the remaining 615 miles are track miles. I don't own a tow rig, so unfortunately this car is driven to every event. 2019 was my first season of HPDE days, at this point, I don't really understand tire wear patterns yet. My brother said the outside wear on the passenger side of the tires is from pushing in the corners, which makes sense. My last "track day" was ~64 laps on this track. The layout is a ~37 second lap for me at this point, and is all left handers. My brother also said the the inner tread of the rear passenger tire (RR) was starting to cup. I need to spend some time studying alignment configurations and tweaks, to truly understand the how each individual setting (camber, caster, toe..ect) affects the overall alignment and handling characteristics of the car. I had the car aligned and corner balanced when I installed the aftermarket suspension and sways (Xidas 800/500, 1.125 RB Sway F, SuperMiata sway rear, and ELBJ's) and told the tech how I would be driving, and to roughly copy the SuperMiata alignment specs as he felt appropriate. The tech also told me that -2.0 degrees camber was all he could get out of the fronts. Reviewing the spec sheet provided to me post alignment, shows that they were really only able to get close to the recommended rear camber in the SM Dual Duty Alignment, every other setting is pretty far off. I'll likely take the car up to Winding Road Racing to have them give me a second opinion on the setup. For what it's worth though, I really enjoy how the car handles right now. It's predictable, balanced, and easy to control when the rear of the car starts stepping out. I've gone through two sets of the BFG Rivals and really enjoy them. I think I'm going to try something new this time around though. I think switching to a new tire I'm unfamiliar with will provide me with some valuable learning experience. I'm considering something a little less aggressive this time around. I'm running 205/50 15s at the moment. Since they don't make the HK RS4 in a 205/50 I'm looking at the Falken Azenis, Kumho Ecstas, or Federal 595-RSR PROS. FR FL RL
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 20:12 |
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It appears to me that the massive amount of front caster has eaten your camber. I think you're supposed to prioritize the front camber, then max out the caster available on these things.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 20:23 |
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Kinda surprised your right rear looks like that with so much camber, but I guess I would still consider more negative camber, only on the right side if that's where you're going to be driving, and also rotating your tires left to right occasionally. If the swaybars are adjustable and will go stiffer, I'd probably do that too. Also, the best way to figure out what is really going on with your alignment, suspension balance, and pressure is to measure tire temps with a probe. You'll go faster and tires will wear more evenly.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 20:29 |
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what the hell are you running that is giving you 8 degrees of caster on an NA? e: sorry looks like an NB, but i still don't think i've ever seen 8 degrees of caster on one of those either
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 21:37 |
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Phone posted:e: sorry looks like an NB, but i still don't think i've ever seen 8 degrees of caster on one of those either I've got like 7 degrees on mine. I'm running the same setup in terms of suspension (800/500 xidas, big front bar, elbs, etc). Told the shop to hit the front camber number and then give me as much caster as they could Diametunim posted:I need to spend some time studying alignment configurations and tweaks, to truly understand the how each individual setting (camber, caster, toe..ect) affects the overall alignment and handling characteristics of the car. I had the car aligned and corner balanced when I installed the aftermarket suspension and sways (Xidas 800/500, 1.125 RB Sway F, SuperMiata sway rear, and ELBJ's) and told the tech how I would be driving, and to roughly copy the SuperMiata alignment specs as he felt appropriate. The tech also told me that -2.0 degrees camber was all he could get out of the fronts. Either something is wrong with your car, your ride height is loving with things, or the alignment shop doesn't have a clue what they're doing. I have the same suspension, and I'm at -3.2F / -2.8R corner balanced at 4" front pinchweld 4.2" rear pinchweld, 0 toe, and I'm like halfway through the max camber settings in the front. My tire wear is even with 245 RS4's on 15x9 wheels.
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# ? Jan 19, 2021 03:56 |
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jamal posted:measure tire temps with a probe. You'll go faster and tires will wear more evenly.
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# ? Jan 19, 2021 08:26 |
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I try to avoid the laser ir deals, they tend to give you pretty inconsistent results since it's just measuring the surface of your tire which varies, and pretty quickly. For example, say you have a good amount of negative camber and aren't pushing around the corners in your cool down lap- the ir will tell you the insides of the tires are hotter, but that might not represent of what's actually happening on faster laps. So you wind up not actually getting anything very useful in helping you fine tune alignment or spring/bar rates.
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# ? Jan 19, 2021 18:33 |
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For shiggles I bit the bullet and bought a set of Federal 595 RSR-Pro's, I'll let you know what I think of them for the price. $405 for all 4 corners in a 205/50 15 vs ~$594 for a set of the Rival 1.5S's. Also gonna take the car up to Winding Road Racing and ask them WTFs going on with my alignment. Maybe I'll even have them cut the rear seat mounts out of the car so I can finally fit this Sparco QRT seat that's been sitting in the corner of my office for several months now.
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# ? Jan 25, 2021 16:27 |
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Pour one out for the Toyo RR that lived a whole five minutes. Dropped a wheel on the out lap, instant deflation, drove on it another two laps, still won TT4 with a flat tire lap time
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 21:01 |
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How're the RRs other than that? I'm thinking about moving to RRs on my NC instead of too-many-heat-cycle R7s.
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 21:13 |
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I dunno, this was to be my first time running them. I ordered a replacement and I will find out in two weeks at NASA AZ Chuckwalla. Hoosier price went up and their contingency got more difficult for this year so I kinda expect a shakeup in what people are actually running without going full pay to win.
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 21:15 |
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I mean I know in the long run it'll be "suck it up and buy the purple crack" if I want to win, but for getting better at midpack, something that supposedly just lasts and doesn't get much slower seems great.
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 22:32 |
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I decided to join the aero club.mekilljoydammit posted:I mean I know in the long run it'll be "suck it up and buy the purple crack" if I want to win, but for getting better at midpack, something that supposedly just lasts and doesn't get much slower seems great. In my experience RR still heat cycle out before the carcass is worn, but they do seem to keep their speed longer than A7s.
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 01:41 |
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That right there is a mighty big wang. Good job.
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# ? Feb 3, 2021 16:30 |
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A buddy of mine just picked up a replacement for his haggard bugeye he's been beating the piss out of for the past several years. You might recognize this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiS01xBV-cw
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# ? Feb 8, 2021 20:13 |
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Is that the one that was on sale at the lotus dealer in Florida?
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# ? Feb 8, 2021 21:17 |
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so loving rad. so loving rad.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 02:39 |
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I can see having a 2nd fuel pump for redundancy but don't get why it has four. Also wondering if the brakes feel soft because of all that flex hose. And very yikes with that cage. OMG the loving main hoop. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 9, 2021 |
# ? Feb 9, 2021 04:33 |
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One for each corner of the tank
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 04:41 |
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Yeah what the hell is going on with that cage?
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 04:48 |
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That cage and harness mounting Hope your friend has plans to address those before taking it on track. Hell of a good base to start with though from the looks of it and should be a very fun car. Jealous of the air jacks.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 12:34 |
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It's that weird Japanese tuner shop sorta combination of "pretty well done" and "super sketchy"
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 16:19 |
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net work error posted:Is that the one that was on sale at the lotus dealer in Florida? I believe so! NitroSpazzz posted:That cage and harness mounting Dumb questions incoming. What's wrong with the cage? (I don't know dick about proper cage design) If I had to take a guess, I think the main hoop is too far away from the roof, which would allow for extra force to be exerted on the cage in the event of a roll over? Same thing with the harness mount points, I'm assuming that there's a very real chance those eyelets would tear out of the rear of the car in the event of a major accident? If I had to take a guess, he's going to be at Super Lap Battle in less than a month. YOLO
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 20:52 |
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Big rule for main hoop is that it is one continuous piece from floor to floor with a nice big plate where it mounts to the floor. It should also be a little behind the driver and not next to their head. And have a diagonal brace (possibly 2) to keep it from just folding over. Just do that, plus the braces supporting it from behind, and you have a solid roll bar and good start to a cage. Also a reason you shouldn't have seat rails, because then the seat can move relative to the cage and harness mounts, and isn't as strong, but that I can get past and if you have, say, an endurance car with multiple drivers it's useful. There is some neat stuff on there, that cooling setup with the trans and oil coolers built into the radiator is pretty cool. And that oil cooler adapter is a super rare cool jdm part. Lot of not very well connected hoses and fittings throughout and a whole bunch of stock parts I didn't really expect but that could have been due to rules or taken off before sale, etc. The shocks seem neat but the spacer setup to make them fit the upright is a little questionable. And the car is slammed and has those huge ball joint extenders but looks like nothing on the tie rods. I guess if your suspension barely moves you don't need to worry about geometry. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Feb 10, 2021 |
# ? Feb 9, 2021 20:55 |
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I'm digging the soft fuel lines through the cabin. That cage appears to use smaller diameter tube than the cage in my Miata. The main hoop over the driver's head appears to be kinked, hard to tell but it looks significantly wider at the bend than elsewhere. I would suggest grinding the paint off it and verifying it's actually DOM tube. If he wants to race that car the cage will almost certainly need to be cut out and redone. The harness mountings are terrifying because of how low they are, they should be about even with the shoulders so the forces on your shoulders/spine/seat aren't downward.
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# ? Feb 13, 2021 07:41 |
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Oh yeah, this thread might appreciate this. Just ordered https://trailbrake.com/tire-tpms/ as part of my semi-sane data ambitions. I've found nothing else anywhere near the price range, and they have off the shelf profiles to work with AIM and apparently AEM and Motec too.
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# ? Feb 13, 2021 16:48 |
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Let us know how it works when you try it out.
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# ? Feb 13, 2021 19:39 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 13:54 |
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I'm not sure if this link will work, but its from the SM race in Florida this past weekend, big wtf https://www.facebook.com/SpecDrama/videos/449054073081807
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 17:25 |