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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




pffft lots of tread left, just send it.

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KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


I don't see any cords showing. Still has another 2 track days in it. :colbert:

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Flip em

Frond
Mar 12, 2018

I did this with my RE71s and inexplicably went faster. Perhaps that says more about my driving consistency in general but I was surprised.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Frond posted:

I did this with my RE71s and inexplicably went faster. Perhaps that says more about my driving consistency in general but I was surprised.

RE71R have some sort of magic where they look completely worn out and end up faster.

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010

KillHour posted:

I don't see any cords showing. Still has another 2 track days in it. :colbert:

If I was going to go back out to my local learning track I totally could. Just swap right to left and visa versa. It's all left handers anyways.


I'm curious if you guys flip tires even if they have outside / inside indicators on them?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
asymmetric tires have inside/outside on them (falken azenis for example), you can just rotate the tires on the car in the usual fashion

directional tires you have to dismount and reinstall; they don't have inside/outside on them

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Diametunim posted:

I'm curious if you guys flip tires even if they have outside / inside indicators on them?

I have

there are two caveats to this:
1. Some newer tires are multicompound like motorcycle tires have been for a while, so flipping probably wouldn't be a great idea for those
2. May impact rain performance but who cares

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah frequently the inside of the tread is a harder compound while the outside shoulders are softer. Directional tread is mostly there for clearing water and in the dry it doesn't matter.

I'd definitely consider some alignment/suspension setup changes on that one though.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Totally run tires backwards to squeak the last bit of life out of them. The right rear on a honda is where used up tires go to die. At least on mostly right hand corner tracks.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I had a suspicion that it was a Miata, but didn't see it mentioned explicitly.

Fix your suspension lol

Dave Inc.
Nov 26, 2007
Let's have a drink!

jamal posted:

Yeah frequently the inside of the tread is a harder compound while the outside shoulders are softer. Directional tread is mostly there for clearing water and in the dry it doesn't matter.

I'd definitely consider some alignment/suspension setup changes on that one though.

Yeah those are what my tires used to look like tracking my 911SC and I would have to flip the tires on the wheels to get more track time. Modern street/track tires were too much for the chassis so I had to stiffen the whole thing and add oodles of camber. It ended up being balanced once I was up about 2.5 degrees negative in the rear.

I have to cut holes in the body to add more anti-sway and I don't wanna do it. :'(

Edit: In actuality those look better than mine did, they were almost like someone had taken a cheese grater to just the tire's shoulder.

Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 18, 2021

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010
For the curious, here's the other corners. Looking at my spreadsheets, these tires have 2,695 miles on them total, 2,080 miles are street, and the remaining 615 miles are track miles. I don't own a tow rig, so unfortunately this car is driven to every event. 2019 was my first season of HPDE days, at this point, I don't really understand tire wear patterns yet. My brother said the outside wear on the passenger side of the tires is from pushing in the corners, which makes sense. My last "track day" was ~64 laps on this track. The layout is a ~37 second lap for me at this point, and is all left handers. My brother also said the the inner tread of the rear passenger tire (RR) was starting to cup.

I need to spend some time studying alignment configurations and tweaks, to truly understand the how each individual setting (camber, caster, toe..ect) affects the overall alignment and handling characteristics of the car. I had the car aligned and corner balanced when I installed the aftermarket suspension and sways (Xidas 800/500, 1.125 RB Sway F, SuperMiata sway rear, and ELBJ's) and told the tech how I would be driving, and to roughly copy the SuperMiata alignment specs as he felt appropriate. The tech also told me that -2.0 degrees camber was all he could get out of the fronts.

Reviewing the spec sheet provided to me post alignment, shows that they were really only able to get close to the recommended rear camber in the SM Dual Duty Alignment, every other setting is pretty far off. I'll likely take the car up to Winding Road Racing to have them give me a second opinion on the setup. For what it's worth though, I really enjoy how the car handles right now. It's predictable, balanced, and easy to control when the rear of the car starts stepping out.

I've gone through two sets of the BFG Rivals and really enjoy them. I think I'm going to try something new this time around though. I think switching to a new tire I'm unfamiliar with will provide me with some valuable learning experience. I'm considering something a little less aggressive this time around. I'm running 205/50 15s at the moment. Since they don't make the HK RS4 in a 205/50 I'm looking at the Falken Azenis, Kumho Ecstas, or Federal 595-RSR PROS.

FR


FL


RL



BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
It appears to me that the massive amount of front caster has eaten your camber.

I think you're supposed to prioritize the front camber, then max out the caster available on these things.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Kinda surprised your right rear looks like that with so much camber, but I guess I would still consider more negative camber, only on the right side if that's where you're going to be driving, and also rotating your tires left to right occasionally. If the swaybars are adjustable and will go stiffer, I'd probably do that too.

Also, the best way to figure out what is really going on with your alignment, suspension balance, and pressure is to measure tire temps with a probe. You'll go faster and tires will wear more evenly.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
what the hell are you running that is giving you 8 degrees of caster on an NA?

e: sorry looks like an NB, but i still don't think i've ever seen 8 degrees of caster on one of those either

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Phone posted:

e: sorry looks like an NB, but i still don't think i've ever seen 8 degrees of caster on one of those either

I've got like 7 degrees on mine. I'm running the same setup in terms of suspension (800/500 xidas, big front bar, elbs, etc). Told the shop to hit the front camber number and then give me as much caster as they could :v:


Diametunim posted:

I need to spend some time studying alignment configurations and tweaks, to truly understand the how each individual setting (camber, caster, toe..ect) affects the overall alignment and handling characteristics of the car. I had the car aligned and corner balanced when I installed the aftermarket suspension and sways (Xidas 800/500, 1.125 RB Sway F, SuperMiata sway rear, and ELBJ's) and told the tech how I would be driving, and to roughly copy the SuperMiata alignment specs as he felt appropriate. The tech also told me that -2.0 degrees camber was all he could get out of the fronts.

Reviewing the spec sheet provided to me post alignment, shows that they were really only able to get close to the recommended rear camber in the SM Dual Duty Alignment, every other setting is pretty far off.

Either something is wrong with your car, your ride height is loving with things, or the alignment shop doesn't have a clue what they're doing. I have the same suspension, and I'm at -3.2F / -2.8R corner balanced at 4" front pinchweld 4.2" rear pinchweld, 0 toe, and I'm like halfway through the max camber settings in the front. My tire wear is even with 245 RS4's on 15x9 wheels.

got off on a technicality
Feb 7, 2007

oh dear

jamal posted:

measure tire temps with a probe. You'll go faster and tires will wear more evenly.
To his point, make sure to check the temps on the outside, middle, and inside. Your goal is to get them to be even. You can use a proper probe with a needle, or cheat with a pyrometer (the kind with a laser pointer and trigger)

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I try to avoid the laser ir deals, they tend to give you pretty inconsistent results since it's just measuring the surface of your tire which varies, and pretty quickly. For example, say you have a good amount of negative camber and aren't pushing around the corners in your cool down lap- the ir will tell you the insides of the tires are hotter, but that might not represent of what's actually happening on faster laps. So you wind up not actually getting anything very useful in helping you fine tune alignment or spring/bar rates.

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010
For shiggles I bit the bullet and bought a set of Federal 595 RSR-Pro's, I'll let you know what I think of them for the price. $405 for all 4 corners in a 205/50 15 vs ~$594 for a set of the Rival 1.5S's. Also gonna take the car up to Winding Road Racing and ask them WTFs going on with my alignment. Maybe I'll even have them cut the rear seat mounts out of the car so I can finally fit this Sparco QRT seat that's been sitting in the corner of my office for several months now.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm


Pour one out for the Toyo RR that lived a whole five minutes. Dropped a wheel on the out lap, instant deflation, drove on it another two laps, still won TT4 with a flat tire lap time

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
How're the RRs other than that? I'm thinking about moving to RRs on my NC instead of too-many-heat-cycle R7s.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I dunno, this was to be my first time running them. I ordered a replacement and I will find out in two weeks at NASA AZ Chuckwalla.

Hoosier price went up and their contingency got more difficult for this year so I kinda expect a shakeup in what people are actually running without going full pay to win.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
I mean I know in the long run it'll be "suck it up and buy the purple crack" if I want to win, but for getting better at midpack, something that supposedly just lasts and doesn't get much slower seems great.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh
I decided to join the aero club.



mekilljoydammit posted:

I mean I know in the long run it'll be "suck it up and buy the purple crack" if I want to win, but for getting better at midpack, something that supposedly just lasts and doesn't get much slower seems great.

In my experience RR still heat cycle out before the carcass is worn, but they do seem to keep their speed longer than A7s.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


That right there is a mighty big wang. Good job.

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010
A buddy of mine just picked up a replacement for his haggard bugeye he's been beating the piss out of for the past several years. You might recognize this one



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiS01xBV-cw

net work error
Feb 26, 2011

Is that the one that was on sale at the lotus dealer in Florida?

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
so loving rad. so loving rad.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I can see having a 2nd fuel pump for redundancy but don't get why it has four. Also wondering if the brakes feel soft because of all that flex hose. And very yikes with that cage.

OMG the loving main hoop.

jamal fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 9, 2021

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

One for each corner of the tank

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Yeah what the hell is going on with that cage?

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


That cage and harness mounting :stonklol:

Hope your friend has plans to address those before taking it on track. Hell of a good base to start with though from the looks of it and should be a very fun car. Jealous of the air jacks.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
It's that weird Japanese tuner shop sorta combination of "pretty well done" and "super sketchy"

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010

net work error posted:

Is that the one that was on sale at the lotus dealer in Florida?

I believe so!

NitroSpazzz posted:

That cage and harness mounting :stonklol:

Hope your friend has plans to address those before taking it on track. Hell of a good base to start with though from the looks of it and should be a very fun car. Jealous of the air jacks.

Dumb questions incoming. What's wrong with the cage? (I don't know dick about proper cage design) If I had to take a guess, I think the main hoop is too far away from the roof, which would allow for extra force to be exerted on the cage in the event of a roll over? Same thing with the harness mount points, I'm assuming that there's a very real chance those eyelets would tear out of the rear of the car in the event of a major accident?

If I had to take a guess, he's going to be at Super Lap Battle in less than a month. YOLO

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Big rule for main hoop is that it is one continuous piece from floor to floor with a nice big plate where it mounts to the floor. It should also be a little behind the driver and not next to their head. And have a diagonal brace (possibly 2) to keep it from just folding over. Just do that, plus the braces supporting it from behind, and you have a solid roll bar and good start to a cage. Also a reason you shouldn't have seat rails, because then the seat can move relative to the cage and harness mounts, and isn't as strong, but that I can get past and if you have, say, an endurance car with multiple drivers it's useful.


There is some neat stuff on there, that cooling setup with the trans and oil coolers built into the radiator is pretty cool. And that oil cooler adapter is a super rare cool jdm part. Lot of not very well connected hoses and fittings throughout and a whole bunch of stock parts I didn't really expect but that could have been due to rules or taken off before sale, etc. The shocks seem neat but the spacer setup to make them fit the upright is a little questionable. And the car is slammed and has those huge ball joint extenders but looks like nothing on the tie rods. I guess if your suspension barely moves you don't need to worry about geometry.

jamal fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Feb 10, 2021

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE
I'm digging the soft fuel lines through the cabin.

That cage appears to use smaller diameter tube than the cage in my Miata. The main hoop over the driver's head appears to be kinked, hard to tell but it looks significantly wider at the bend than elsewhere. I would suggest grinding the paint off it and verifying it's actually DOM tube. If he wants to race that car the cage will almost certainly need to be cut out and redone.

The harness mountings are terrifying because of how low they are, they should be about even with the shoulders so the forces on your shoulders/spine/seat aren't downward.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Oh yeah, this thread might appreciate this. Just ordered https://trailbrake.com/tire-tpms/ as part of my semi-sane data ambitions. I've found nothing else anywhere near the price range, and they have off the shelf profiles to work with AIM and apparently AEM and Motec too.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Let us know how it works when you try it out.

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BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I'm not sure if this link will work, but its from the SM race in Florida this past weekend, big wtf

https://www.facebook.com/SpecDrama/videos/449054073081807

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