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w00tmonger posted:This feels like the place. I printed and painted a dice tower: Those teeth are upsetting
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Jan 18, 2021 12:26
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Why do lots of people seem to suggest "nitrile gloves"? How are they different than the clear, disposable rubber ones in the Cleaning Supplies section at my local grocery store?
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Jan 18, 2021 19:56
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Nitrile gloves are more resistant to toxic chemicals and harder to puncture than latex. Lots of people have latex allergies, too, which is a non-issue with nitrile gloves.
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Jan 18, 2021 20:08
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w00tmonger posted:This feels like the place. I printed and painted a dice tower: Do you have the STL file, or where I can get it? I'd love to make this my Spring project for a D&D buddy!
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Jan 18, 2021 20:37
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Feeple posted:Do you have the STL file, or where I can get it? I'd love to make this my Spring project for a D&D buddy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4667413 Sab669 posted:Why do lots of people seem to suggest "nitrile gloves"? How are they different than the clear, disposable rubber ones in the Cleaning Supplies section at my local grocery store? if your using them a bunch nitrile gloves are way more comfortable and less likely to break. much more form fitting than crappy vinyl gloves
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Jan 18, 2021 20:47
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Sab669 posted:Why do lots of people seem to suggest "nitrile gloves"? How are they different than the clear, disposable rubber ones in the Cleaning Supplies section at my local grocery store? The replies above are all valid, I think some of it is also that a lot of people port over their knowledge/experience from other artistic disciplines and prefer to use the same equipment. When I was doing printmaking nitrile was necessary for working with the solvents and cleaners we used, if you're using exclusively acrylic paints there's no benefit to nitrile from a safety perspective. It's the same reason some people who airbrush recommend you buy 3M masks with organic vapour filters despite the fact that acrylics don't fume: they're standard for people who spraypaint so the equipment moves over disciplines even if it isn't necessary.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:05
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Koopa Kid posted:if you're using exclusively acrylic paints there's no benefit to nitrile from a safety perspective. There is one very specific example that can be given regarding nitrile gloves for miniatures that could swing a purchase decision by itself alone- cyanoacrylate will bond latex gloves to themselves drat near instantly, but nitrile gloves take much longer so you can separate your fingers, let it dry real quick, and keep going. That alone is enough to get me to buy nitrile instead of latex.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:19
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How do (lazy) people do yellow on their minis? I have some goblins that I primed grey, and my army painter daemonic yellow looks like total poo poo on test parts, even after two coats. Since I'm doing up to forty of them, I'd prefer to not do 3-5 coats per dude. I should note I am very lazy and 99% of my models just have a single (layer of) basecoats, details, and one wash, no highlights, blending, or dry brushing. I know this doesn't get amazing results, but I find them fine for tabletop quality, and I prefer to have lots of dudes than really nice ones. Is there a yellow paint "strong" enough to make do with one coat, or should I just use a different colour? edit: I also tried it over some other bits I had primed white, but I found it still didn't look good Pb and Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 22:26
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Paint a very near-white sandy/cream/bone color first and paint your yellow over the top of it. If you're looking for a little more advanced treatment put down a layer of pink, drybrush white over it, and then paint your yellow over that. The super lazy way is Contrast Iyanden Yellow over white primer.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:32
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Much obliged!
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Jan 18, 2021 22:34
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:How do (lazy) people do yellow on their minis? I have some goblins that I primed grey, and my army painter daemonic yellow looks like total poo poo on test parts, even after two coats. Since I'm doing up to forty of them, I'd prefer to not do 3-5 coats per dude. I should note I am very lazy and 99% of my models just have a single (layer of) basecoats, details, and one wash, no highlights, blending, or dry brushing. I know this doesn't get amazing results, but I find them fine for tabletop quality, and I prefer to have lots of dudes than really nice ones. Is there a yellow paint "strong" enough to make do with one coat, or should I just use a different colour? I generally quite like army painter, but in my experience, Army painter daemonic yellow... Is not a good paint. It seperates easily, it takes a lot of shaking and it has almost no coverage. Vallejo Model Colour Flat Yellow is about the best yellow paint I have personal experience of, it actually has some coverage! Its still best over a light undercoat. Though, if you are shooting for tabletop standard in a hurry, have you considered doing a white undercoat and using contrast yellow? Its decent enough I find.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:38
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PoptartsNinja posted:Paint a very near-white sandy/cream/bone color first and paint your yellow over the top of it. If you're looking for a little more advanced treatment put down a layer of pink, drybrush white over it, and then paint your yellow over that. SiKboy posted:I generally quite like army painter, but in my experience, Army painter daemonic yellow... Is not a good paint. It seperates easily, it takes a lot of shaking and it has almost no coverage. Vallejo Model Colour Flat Yellow is about the best yellow paint I have personal experience of, it actually has some coverage! Its still best over a light undercoat. Though, if you are shooting for tabletop standard in a hurry, have you considered doing a white undercoat and using contrast yellow? Its decent enough I find. Thanks to both of you. Contrast is probably the way to go for me, I've been curious to try them anyway so this may be the time.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:43
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SiKboy posted:I generally quite like army painter, but in my experience, Army painter daemonic yellow... Is not a good paint. It seperates easily, it takes a lot of shaking and it has almost no coverage. Vallejo Model Colour Flat Yellow is about the best yellow paint I have personal experience of, it actually has some coverage! Its still best over a light undercoat. Though, if you are shooting for tabletop standard in a hurry, have you considered doing a white undercoat and using contrast yellow? Its decent enough I find. I agree with this with AP and their yellow. It used it on the head crests for my rubric marines and the coverage was so bad. Thankfully they were a small part, and wash helped to hide a lot of the coverage issues.
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Jan 18, 2021 22:51
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Mandos!  The gold and silver pair are my favorites. Painted with a 50/50 mix of Skeleton Horde contrast and Basilicanum Grey to get a gray/tan fatigue look before I hit their armor with Stormhost Silver. The gold bits are actually contrast Snakebite Leather over Stormhost. The green and red pair are my second favorite. They got a mix 1 part Creed Camo, 1 part Plaguebearer Flesh, and Basilicanum Grey before their armor got the same Stormhost Silver as the others. The armor was then tinted with Creed Camo and Flesh Tearers Red.  Mando was 3D printed, he's pretty much pure Basilicanum Grey, with an extra layer of Basilicanum Grey on his cape to darken it and then Stormhost Silver with a black wash. Grogu is Creed Camo, his little hoverpod is straight Skeleton Horde. The blue and red guy was almost the same, but I tinted his armor with Talassar Blue, which is shockingly dark over Stormhost (it's quite vibrant over white). All of the red bids are Blood Angels over Retributor Armor. The Beskad Duelist (sword mando) is a 50/50 mix of Magos Purple and Basilicanum Grey. That would've been a better base tone for Din, Magos Purple is very weak. Her armor is Stormhost with Snakebite Leather for gold, and Volupus Pink for the Byzantium Purple. The Duelist didn't come out quite purple enough, so for the last flier I did a 1:1:2 mix of Magos Purple, Shyish Purple, and Basilicanum Grey to tint her fatigues a little more noticeably. The blue bits are Akhelian Green over Stormhost which I love, but the purple is a 50/50 mix of Shyish and Magos Purple that isn't quite vibrant enough for my tastes. In hindsight I probably should've used Volupus Pink instead. I also discovered if you 50/50 mix Blood Angels and Talassar Blue you get a perfect recreation of Shyish Purple, which... explains a lot, honestly. Talassar Blue is darker than it seems. Edit: And everyone with a raised boot got a little snow stuck to the bottom. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 23:19
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:Thanks to both of you. Contrast is probably the way to go for me, I've been curious to try them anyway so this may be the time. Ianden yellow ends up being too orange for me, and as contrast paint it tends to leave blotches on large flat surfaces (which may not be a problem with goblins). The easiest/best way I’ve found is to use ‘Vallejo game color yellow ink’ over wraithbone spray or another white (or zenithal if you’re feeling fancy). It goes on super easy and smooth in one layer and has an extremely intense “angry bee” yellow. It’s by far the lowest effort, while actually looking great, yellow I’ve tried outside an airbrush.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:39
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:How do (lazy) people do yellow on their minis? I have some goblins that I primed grey, and my army painter daemonic yellow looks like total poo poo on test parts, even after two coats. Since I'm doing up to forty of them, I'd prefer to not do 3-5 coats per dude. I should note I am very lazy and 99% of my models just have a single (layer of) basecoats, details, and one wash, no highlights, blending, or dry brushing. I know this doesn't get amazing results, but I find them fine for tabletop quality, and I prefer to have lots of dudes than really nice ones. Is there a yellow paint "strong" enough to make do with one coat, or should I just use a different colour? I did my gargant with wraithbone > iyanden yellow contrast > flash git yellow highlights. You could probably add some real pale yellow edges too
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Jan 18, 2021 23:45
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:How do (lazy) people do yellow on their minis? Prime grey, airbrush pink. Zenithal white ink. Airbrush transparent yellow. Done.
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Jan 18, 2021 23:54
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Yeast posted:Prime grey, airbrush pink. Probably should have mentioned that I don't have an airbrush, but thank you anyway. The pink step is interesting
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Jan 19, 2021 00:09
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Werix posted:I agree with this with AP and their yellow. It used it on the head crests for my rubric marines and the coverage was so bad. Thankfully they were a small part, and wash helped to hide a lot of the coverage issues. Glad to hear it isn't just me; I honestly wondered if it was just a bad batch or something, since I've had one bad bottle and one bad can of primer from army painter.
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Jan 19, 2021 00:11
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:How do (lazy) people do yellow on their minis? I have some goblins that I primed grey, and my army painter daemonic yellow looks like total poo poo on test parts, even after two coats. Since I'm doing up to forty of them, I'd prefer to not do 3-5 coats per dude. I should note I am very lazy and 99% of my models just have a single (layer of) basecoats, details, and one wash, no highlights, blending, or dry brushing. I know this doesn't get amazing results, but I find them fine for tabletop quality, and I prefer to have lots of dudes than really nice ones. Is there a yellow paint "strong" enough to make do with one coat, or should I just use a different colour? prime light flesh colour (kislev flesh equivalent) , then paint on yellow ink. one coat of yellow ink will do the trick. I'm pretty sure Vallejo offer a flesh colour spray paint. no airbrush required. I used to do this trick when I was 14, so it should be approachable.
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Jan 19, 2021 01:13
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 wip on this bladeguard ancient. I love this new method for painting old bones, it's just a single wash over a zenithal and I think it gives a lot of definition. Specifically it's a mix of secret weapon stone wash and skeleton horde. Same for the red fabric, so far it's just a single pass of fleshtearers red over the zenithal. With this method it doesn't take very long to get to a solid level of detail.
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Jan 19, 2021 04:17
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Did you paint white after applying those colors at all to touch up or was your painting just that on point? Cuz dang it's crisp. Edit: also those bones are really nice
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Jan 19, 2021 05:36
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tangy yet delightful posted:Did you paint white after applying those colors at all to touch up or was your painting just that on point? Cuz dang it's crisp. I haven’t touched it up yet but I do the white first and then go over with washes to keep the volumes established from the zenithal
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Jan 19, 2021 06:02
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bought a 2nd Ed sw army, here's my test blood claws    I post my poo poo on instagram if that's your jam https://www.instagram.com/p/CKN-xGVHKD6/?igshid=rzkumnwvky54
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Jan 19, 2021 09:05
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Verisimilidude posted:
When you say "this new method," are you getting these recipes from somewhere or making them up yourself? I ask because all your stuff has been rad and I've copied several of your posts into my notes of things I need to try at some point, but if these methods are already compiled online somewhere that'd be nifty.
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Jan 19, 2021 11:58
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leaving my wet palette on top of my (switched on) laptop all day sure was one of the dumbest things I’ve done in a while
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Jan 19, 2021 16:07
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Oof
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Jan 19, 2021 16:11
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Communist Walrus posted:When you say "this new method," are you getting these recipes from somewhere or making them up yourself? I ask because all your stuff has been rad and I've copied several of your posts into my notes of things I need to try at some point, but if these methods are already compiled online somewhere that'd be nifty. the general method is sketching out volumes with the airbrush and then using transparent paints to maintain those volumes. Contrast and washes work great for this since it limits the amount of time you need to spend on painting these areas while still getting a pleasing end result. From start to finish for establishing volumes, I prime the model black, then apply Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) all over (this is so the largest shadows aren't pitch black and establishes the darkest tone for the white armor), then a zenithal with Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) and then a zenithal of Tamiya Flat White (XF-2). The end result looks like this:   From here I can start blocking out colors such as Fleshtearers Red on the fabric, Black Templar for anything black, etc. Once that's all done I panel-line with Gryph-Charger Grey, and then I start adding some layering on fabrics, washing metals, etc.
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Jan 19, 2021 16:36
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I’m looking at painting this She-Hulk miniature and I desperately don’t want to gently caress it up:  I saw this painting video by the miniature designer, did he use contrast paints or something? He made it look way too easy. https://youtu.be/1Sz0o0DCQ80
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Jan 19, 2021 16:48
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I did She-Hulk yesterday! She's fun, though I went through like 3 different coats of green before it came out nice. Using white, as always, was the biggest pain in the rear end. For the green I used a light priming basecoat, followed by Warp Lightning, some Wizard Orb green, and then a stock green to splash over it. Transparent or contrast purples work nice for the other parts.  She's appropriately a titan compared to the rest of the roster 
DLC Inc fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 16:57
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:Glad to hear it isn't just me; I honestly wondered if it was just a bad batch or something, since I've had one bad bottle and one bad can of primer from army painter. Yeah. Overall I really like Army Painter's stuff. I prefer their metallics and washes to GW, but the non-metal paints have been hit or miss. I like their flesh tone, browns, and reds, but the yellow and blue i have are kind of splotchy coverage.
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Jan 19, 2021 17:09
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Verisimilidude posted:the general method is sketching out volumes with the airbrush and then using transparent paints to maintain those volumes. Contrast and washes work great for this since it limits the amount of time you need to spend on painting these areas while still getting a pleasing end result. Thanks for taking the time to write all that up. Yet another thing I'll have to try in the future.
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Jan 19, 2021 17:17
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Xenomrph posted:I’m looking at painting this She-Hulk miniature and I desperately don’t want to gently caress it up: Looks like normal miniature paint with a good amount of flow improver added. Might be contrast paint, they work well on the organic shapes the spandex-clad marvel miniatures have. edit: I can't make out the brand name but it sounded like they are using a wash directly over white as the basecoat. So either thinned out contrast or something like a vallejo blue wash. kzin602 fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 17:39
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lenoon posted:Well its taken me all year so far but i finally finished my first model of 2021. I thought a knights army might be on the cards this year, but after doing this and two armigers, I think im going to take a break until inspiration strikes for the idea behind the next one. This is supposed to be a 40k take on a Penitential, a book of sins and penances - essentially, commit sins against the imperial creed and the corpse walker of the Abbess Radegund will force the appropriate penance upon the sinner. Ace work m8
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Jan 19, 2021 19:11
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DLC Inc posted:I did She-Hulk yesterday! She's fun, though I went through like 3 different coats of green before it came out nice. Using white, as always, was the biggest pain in the rear end. For the green I used a light priming basecoat, followed by Warp Lightning, some Wizard Orb green, and then a stock green to splash over it. Transparent or contrast purples work nice for the other parts. Nice! So if I’ve never used Citadel contrast paints before and I want to buy everything in one go, what is my shopping list?
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Jan 19, 2021 22:08
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Xenomrph posted:Nice! So if I’ve never used Citadel contrast paints before and I want to buy everything in one go, what is my shopping list? There are a lot of Contrast paints but if you'd like to get a good handful of "basics" for primary colors and shades, I would recommend Blood Angel Red, Ultramarines Blue, Iyanden Yellow, Guilliman Flesh, either Warp Lightning or Orkflesh for your green. Skeleton Horde is a great one for undead/bone armor stuff, and Volupus Pink has nice bright hue for either fleshy tentacles or just pink stuff. There are quite a few reds/greens to choose from but these are the ones I've used for my red Sororitas army, green Salamanders, and gross Plague Marines. Contrast is cool because even if it's not the final coating, it works so well as one of the first coats; I used the darker contrast green for She-Hulk before slathering on two other brighter shades of normal paints to create a really nice solid green. ADDITIONALLY, if you'd like to seek an alternative to buying shitloads of $7 pots, Monument Hobbies has an excellent line of "transparent paints" you can utilize to get that "contrast" feel. I used their Transparent Purple on She-Hulk after priming her and putting a small base coat of pink, and it came out great. You can learn about those paints here as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njlTY6J478U&t=570s
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Jan 19, 2021 22:35
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Hmm, which greens did you use for the skin and hair? I was mostly looking to just get the specific contrast paints I need for this specific project, but if there’s other “must have” contrast paints I might as well grab them too I guess? I’m generally okay with buying Citadel stuff because I don’t buy stuff often and my local GW shop is totally loving awesome and I like to support good behavior. Like yeah I know I could get stuff cheaper but I’m okay with paying a bit more to support a kickass manager who I’d consider a friend as well. He’s been great about telling me when I don’t need to buy something so he’s not trying to upsell me non-stop or any of that poo poo. Also as a rookie with contrast paints, don’t the Citadel ones need a special primer or something to work right? Or is that bullshit? Like, I’m okay supporting my GW store by buying products I actually need, but I’m not going to just buy whatever if it’s a waste of money.
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Jan 19, 2021 22:48
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Xenomrph posted:Hmm, which greens did you use for the skin and hair? I've never used a special primer for Citadel paints--I just use grey/white Vallejo brush-on primers and that seems to be fine! Contrast paints do sometimes require a lighter color underneath to get full effect; besides certain special cases, using them on an initial black primed coat will result in different shades. (I have used Warp Lightning over black primed Marines though, as I wanted the darker green for them.) If you want a full stage-by-stage intro to how Citadel uses these, this is a good page to look at: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/05/23/contrast-meet-the-rangegw-homepage-post-2fw-homepage-post-2/ For the skin I used Warp Lightning, followed by putting on a coat of Jungle Green mixed with some darker flesh paint, and then finally a coat of appropriately named Greenskin. (Those other paints are from The Army Painter set I got a while ago; they were a lime-green and a "generic" green respectively.) The hair was primed black and then I put Militarium Green contrast paint on it, since her hair is usually a darker moss-green.
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Jan 19, 2021 22:59
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Xenomrph posted:Also as a rookie with contrast paints, don’t the Citadel ones need a special primer or something to work right? Or is that bullshit? It's pretty bullshit? There might be some truth to it but I use contrast over army painter white spray primer all the time without noticeable issues. If a 3D printed mini's topography lines don't stop Contrast paints from working nothing in a decent spray primer will either. Contrast paints are great, I strongly recommend all of their browns in particular (Wyldwood, Gore Grunta Fur, Skeleton Horde, Snakebite Leather, all of their fleshtones), as well as their shades (Black Templar, Basc. Grey, Apothecary White). Their strong colors are also good, for She Hulk I'd definitely grab Ork Flesh. There're only a few contrast colors that are a bit marginal. Shyish Purple and Leviadon Blue are both a bit too strong and dark. Magos Purple and Plaguebearer Flesh are both very weak (Magos Purple is more of a light pink, great for painting monster mouths but no much else; Plaguebearer's just weird and binary, you'll either have a use for it or you won't with no middle ground), and there isn't a good, rich purple color in between. To get a good purple for She Hulk I'd suggest a Shyish basecoat and then using normal purple paints to brighten in up. For her hair, I'd do Black Templar maybe cut 50/50 with Ork Flesh to give it a slightly greenish tint.
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Jan 19, 2021 23:11
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 05:31 |
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I'm not the best at painting but I really enjoy doing conversions, I've had a Noise marine army idea in my head for ages. It's taken me about a year but I've finally almost finished the center pieces (one more armiger in progress). Still in the middle of converting a bunch of Primaris noise marines to go with it. I might actually finish this this year. Lots of cleaning up to do with the paint jobs, but overall I'm pretty happy with them. There's even a Bluetooth speaker inside the knight.
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Jan 19, 2021 23:13
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