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Well, my gears finally got here!    This is an np231j input gear, an np241c range slider, a 2wd Allison output shaft, and an Allison 2000 wide ratio gearset. They won't go together this way in the end (I'm still theorycrafting how I'm going to make this work, but I think it will succeed) but they do fit together this way. Also I added some recovery points to the ends of my front bumper (thanks SandbaggerSA! Finally used some of the ones you gave me) to enable the Jeep crane to fit the Honcho, since I'll be cutting up the white Comanche soon and hopefully selling the 5 ton, leaving me craneless. 
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Jan 10, 2021 08:23
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| # ? May 23, 2024 10:21 |
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No pictures because I'm a bad poster, but I got tired of my lovely jumper cables and rather than fix it the cheap way (buy new jumper cables) or the medium cost way (buy new batteries so I can let a car sit for more than a week and not have to jump it) I went with the over engineered solution, which was to put Anderson SB175 connectors on the grilles of two of the trucks connected to the batteries with #4 welding cable and buy materials to make two sets of SB175 to alligator cables (one for each truck) and a 25ft SB175 to SB175 cable. Those connectors are stupid expensive and even the knockoff ones on Amazon are not cheap, but they're really good. Also went to the hangar Sunday night, finished prepping my aw4 for the Comanche 4x4 swap (aside from the throttle valve cable which is RENIX specific and needs to be pulled from the 2wd trans and put in the 4x4 one before I install it) and got toilet Jeeps Dana 30 swapped into the Comanche. Deathwobble is significantly reduced (the track bar mount on the LP d30 I had in it was smoked) but not gone, and the sickening POP noise when changing steering direction, weird grinding noise when driving, steering vagueness*, and loud clunking and rattling when hitting bumps are all gone, so I'm still considering this a win. * I mean. It's still a Jeep. It just isn't like piloting a cruise ship anymore.
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Jan 19, 2021 05:55
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A truck without hardwired Anderson connectors to allow easy jumping/charging is not a real truck. Got them on mine too. They are used on freight trucks over here. I used to live with a mate who was a truck mechanic so was able to supply them lightly used. I think MAN trucks supply them as an OEM part which comes with about 50cm of heavy duty cable with ring terminals already on the other ends. Did you just let them dangle or use the fancy panel mounts and end covers. Its on my list to upgrade to panel mounts one day. I bought a standard set of long jump leads which have been chopped at about 1/4 of the length and Anderson connectors added to give me long/short and conventional jumping options. The next pro step is to put an Anderson connector directly on the end of a mains boost/charge unit in place of the alligators and then you can use it direct to the trucks or with the chopped jump leads for extra options on other vehicles.
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Jan 19, 2021 11:34
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They're just hanging right now but I will be making brackets soon. Just haven't gotten to the cosmetics point on the grilles on these trucks yet and don't want to make the brackets twice. I've actually got extra covers at this point since the covers came with the connectors that I got with handles for the jump leads, but I only actually want to use them on the connectors for the vehicles. The charger idea is great - I already put them on two solar trickle chargers I use for these since they get parked about 200ft from the house, but I should put one on my wall charger too now that you say that.
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Jan 19, 2021 13:13
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Andersons in the grille is the ticket, yeah. First thing I do to a work truck. Protip: smaller alligator clips will fit right in the connector. Handy for chargers, air compressors, etc.
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Jan 19, 2021 17:08
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I've got them on my truck. #0 welding cable to the battery, and 25' long cables. They're awesome.
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Jan 20, 2021 03:58
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I only went with 4awg for my cables because other than that 5 ton I don't have any diesels to try and start. I haven't gotten to use this mess yet, but kind of looking forward to it actually at this point... Also just picked up the street wheels and tires for the J10. Guy had them listed for 450 a few weeks ago and I messaged him offering to buy just the tires (thinking I had wheels that would fit) and do mount and balance of his choice of wheels and tires for his trouble, he wasn't interested. No one else bought them though and he got tired of looking at them so offered them to me for 200 tonight... Half tread 35in ATs on decent alloys for 200? Hell yes. So now I just have to get rid of the ones I had bought in between  I'll probably actually keep 2 of the wheels as spares and sell the others one at a time to others who need spares, since they're nothing to write home about and the wheels don't match anyways.
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Jan 20, 2021 04:38
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Goddammit my lug nut socket does not fit in the holes in these wheels. Open end lug nuts suck on offroad vehicles anyways, guess I'm buying long closed lug nuts now. I should probably replace the lug studs too but I'm feeling lazy and there are so many of them. 
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Jan 21, 2021 04:56
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Ugh studs are a pain in the dick I don't blame you.
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Jan 21, 2021 14:55
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I'm going to have to go in there to do the ebrake shoes at some point probably (they were seized to the rotor hats) so I'm going to have to face the caliper bracket bolts at that point and the studs will be very accessible, so I might do them then... gently caress I dunno. They're also annoyingly expensive, summit wants 5 bucks each, Amazon wants like 15 each, rockauto wants like 2.50. and there are 16. I guess that part is my fault, I'm used to 10 lug axles 
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Jan 21, 2021 19:28
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kastein posted:rockauto wants like 2.50. and there are 16. 
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Jan 22, 2021 02:58
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I was figuring they would probably ship from at least 17 warehouses
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Jan 22, 2021 03:06
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I laughed at this, one of the reasons I go to amazon first now.
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Jan 22, 2021 03:10
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Yeah same but...  Ok maybe it's a box of ten (though I've got bad memories of being hosed by Amazon sellers listing stuff as a box of 10 or 12 or a bag of 6 and only getting one for a stupid high price as a result) but 4 bucks each is still crazy and I don't trust that 10 will actually show up Maybe it's the missing dash in the part number...  ... Ow gently caress it. Rockauto it is, crazy shipping or not.  At least I know what I'll get.
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Jan 22, 2021 03:28
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Oh. yeah you and I use the same lug studs. Don't bother locally, they won't have all 32, and it'll be precipitously expensive. If you can thread a good quality lugnut on by hand then hit it to ~150lb your stud is fine. If the threads feels gummy and lovely, don't hesitate to replace it. If you're doing rotors you're pressing them out anyway. Pull the rear hubs, throw em on the press too. It sucks doing em locally. Grind down a lovely socket to fit those centerlines. Be sure to have two because it'll inevitably split when you're having a bad day.
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Jan 22, 2021 03:37
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I'm solving this the other way. I dunno what front studs I'll need because I haven't built the front axle yet (and I'm not putting a dime into the current front axle), the studs on the rear axle are crusty from sitting in my yard from 2012ish through 2017. Cycling the lugs on and off a few times has made them mostly clean again but some still drag and it's annoying me, so I'm going to just put new ones in. I got long-rear end closed end nuts off Amazon because (1) it keeps poo poo off the threads in the future and (2) it means my regular lug wrench will work without any grinding Also goddammit I just checked and the front axle uses 1/2-20 lugs. Guess I'll have to spend some time looking for 9/16-18 ones that fit the hubs and rotors.
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Jan 22, 2021 05:01
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Well. I just took a run down to DeadJeep in RI and the head honcho there was able to custom build a steering column for me to exactly my specs from factory parts. I got a manual, tilt, FSJ column with a 91+ double sided key, intermittent wiper switch, cruise control, and headlight switch on the column compatible with the XJ intermittent wiper controller I'll be using and the later style cruise control switches that I can more easily adapt to the LS swap. So I won't have a floor mount high beam switch getting corroded anymore and I'll have working cruise and intermittent wipers soon. I swear they can build any steering column feature combo you need. Also picked up a full gauge cluster for my MJ, a less broken taillight lens for the Honcho, some headlight trim rings that actually fit, etc etc.
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Jan 25, 2021 23:58
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That's pretty cool! Always nice to get what you nee, rather than having to make something suboptimal work.
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Jan 26, 2021 21:55
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Honcho: Busted taillight lens: replaced Headlight buckets: pieced together from what I picked up and what I had, now I have all 3 screws holding in both of my headlights so there's a point to trying to aim them for once MJ: full gauge cluster installed, though I think the oil pressure gauge is flaking out, luckily it's the same gauge in the old cluster so I can swap that easily. I'm just glad I have a working tach now. Need to install the steering column next but I left all my sockets and gm column kit (need to swap my wheel over) at the hangar so I gotta pick those up next time. I think I'll design the Jeep LS swap cruise control interface module tonight hopefully. If anyone has a Jeep they want to LS swap that isn't an XJ or FSJ, and has factory cruise buttons they want to work, get me a wiring diagram for your model and year range and I'll see if I can add support for it easily.
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Jan 26, 2021 23:23
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How did you get along with the steering column weirdo?
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Jan 27, 2021 02:38
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That's cool as poo poo about the steering column, I didn't know that existed.
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Jan 27, 2021 02:52
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Yeah he's basically the reigning expert on saginaw steering columns, at least every version in Jeeps.Seat Safety Switch posted:How did you get along with the steering column weirdo? He's a cool dude. Knows a lot about jeeps which means by default I'm gonna be alright with him.
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Jan 27, 2021 03:32
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kastein posted:MJ: full gauge cluster installed, though I think the oil pressure gauge is flaking out, luckily it's the same gauge in the old cluster so I can swap that easily. I'm just glad I have a working tach now. Hey dumbass, check your oil level once in a while (I had to add like 3 quarts before it was even on the stick, and now it's rock solid. I wonder why.)
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Jan 31, 2021 23:35
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kastein posted:Hey dumbass, check your oil level once in a while Lol this is me too. Especially when I've been checking the oil and it hasn't really moved much so I'm like gently caress it it's fine for awhile, then forget about it and a couple of months later OH poo poo
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Feb 1, 2021 00:19
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Lol this is me too. Especially when I've been checking the oil and it hasn't really moved much so I'm like gently caress it it's fine for awhile, then forget about it and a couple of months later OH poo poo Oh hey look it's how my transfer case exploded in my MJ in 2013! (Seeing a trend here... I need to do maintenance) kastein fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 00:28
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Well, I never expected this but it looks like Miata parts are going to be the first aftermarket electrical component I actually sell to someone, despite trying to start a Jeep aftermarket electrical components side business for like ten years at this point. Some guy joined an autosport electrical group I'm in on Facebook last week desperately looking for a replacement IAT sensor for his Flyin Miata OBD2 plugin Link ECU, apparently they have been NLA from FM for like a decade and from the original manufacturer for at least half a decade. He was able to get enough info put together that I reproduced the board artwork and have parts and PCBs on order to build a small run of them for him, if they all sell out we'll probably do another run and see how many people decide they need a spare. Apparently they commonly had issues with board delamination breaking vias from temp cycling and the wiring harness interface point was poorly designed. I was able to fix the delamination issue through clever board routing to eliminate all the vias (it's a single layer board now), he needs his fast enough that I didn't want to spend a bunch of time looking for a connector but the next run (if it ever happens) I'll probably put a real connector on the board instead of the "loop the wire through a hole and solder it to a pad" zero strain relief setup they originally had. Maybe I should actually get around to finishing any of the half-dozen Jeep electrical products I have and actually put a website together, too. I guess that might help.
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Feb 1, 2021 11:52
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jeepelectronics.com but you only sell Miata and weirdly, NLA Citroen components
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Feb 1, 2021 13:58
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I have a feeling anyone keeping a French car going wouldn't bay an eye at that.
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Feb 1, 2021 15:05
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This is cool. Most of the FM stuff is very good, so I’m a little surprised their IAT board isn’t. Designed on a Friday maybe.
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Feb 1, 2021 16:04
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I would pretty definitely buy any kastein designed XJ parts, so yeah, finish 'em!
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Feb 1, 2021 18:08
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I'll let you guys know what I end up actually doing. At this rate the first thing I'll actually build for Jeeps will be the LS ECU to FSJ thermal gauge interface and universal 87-01 XJ/??-91 FSJ cruise control switch to LS CCM+PCM interface because those are the first two I actually need to make driving my Jeeps comfortable, even though they're the least likely to actually sell. I'm still working on the doubler project and think it's going to be successful but it's looking like the parts will be expensive and time consuming enough that I'm putting it on hold until I have my new shop set up out west. Seat Safety Switch posted:This is cool. Most of the FM stuff is very good, so I’m a little surprised their IAT board isn’t. Designed on a Friday maybe. Earlier kits and apparently later kits all use a regular style IAT sensor.
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Feb 1, 2021 18:49
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kastein posted:Well, I never expected this but it looks like Miata parts are going to be the first aftermarket electrical component I actually sell to someone, despite trying to start a Jeep aftermarket electrical components side business for like ten years at this point. Some guy joined an autosport electrical group I'm in on Facebook last week desperately looking for a replacement IAT sensor for his Flyin Miata OBD2 plugin Link ECU, apparently they have been NLA from FM for like a decade and from the original manufacturer for at least half a decade. He was able to get enough info put together that I reproduced the board artwork and have parts and PCBs on order to build a small run of them for him, if they all sell out we'll probably do another run and see how many people decide they need a spare. Apparently they commonly had issues with board delamination breaking vias from temp cycling and the wiring harness interface point was poorly designed. I was able to fix the delamination issue through clever board routing to eliminate all the vias (it's a single layer board now), he needs his fast enough that I didn't want to spend a bunch of time looking for a connector but the next run (if it ever happens) I'll probably put a real connector on the board instead of the "loop the wire through a hole and solder it to a pad" zero strain relief setup they originally had. That's cool as hell dude, you could probably get a nice side gig going doing more poo poo like that
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Feb 1, 2021 21:22
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angryrobots posted:jeepelectronics.com but you only sell Miata and weirdly, NLA Citroen components When Chrysler Europe was shutdown in the late 70’s, the remains were, funnily enough, sold to.....PSA.
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Feb 2, 2021 01:22
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Awesome! I love stuff like this, solving problems and making some money.
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Feb 3, 2021 02:38
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Well, my digikey order arrived but the boards haven't yet. Few more days hopefully. I determined I don't personally require the cruise control adapter unit as the 86+ FSJ and almost all (possibly all) XJ/MJ/YJ GM column (94-down, possibly 95 YJs) cruise control switch units use exactly the same electrical switching setup as the factory GM van CCM expects until at least 07, possibly later. My donor was an 03 and the CCM came from an 01ish Yukon so it should work fine with my switches. I'm still planning on building such an adapter but it's relegated to future cool ideas because I don't need it myself. I managed to get my hands on an XJ intermittent wiper module as well (well, I've actually owned it since like 2011... it came from a 94 XJ a good friend brought to my house to part out and bequeathed the remains to me when it had no more parts he wanted) so it looks like I'm going to have functioning intermittent wipers that still won't have enough speed adjustment in them, but at least they'll be better than the "high, low, gently caress you" wipers I have now. Oh and we have more snow arriving tomorrow and Monday I'm going to pull an LQ4, RWD 4L80e, and an LQ9 with a few friends. That's gonna be fun. Someone else is getting the LQ4 and 4L80e... I am getting the LQ9. I really should strip the harness down, VATS delete the ECU, and toss it on Marketplace for 1500, but I can't decide, it might go in my parts hoard for when the Roadmaster's TBI bullshit and header gasket leak piss me off enough to make it gently caress off forever.
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Feb 7, 2021 08:09
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An LQ9 Roadmaster would be, uh, real good. Even without a cheap Chinese turbo manifold and a road tune.
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Feb 7, 2021 20:08
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It's that or limp it along till I can afford a $3k Tesla swap donor. I was leaning that way, but this LQ9 is giving me dirty thoughts.
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Feb 7, 2021 20:57
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Semi restomod. LQ9 and some suspension/brake upgrades would make that a sweet ride.
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Feb 8, 2021 00:31
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LQ9 swap, then Tesla swap when it's cheap.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:54
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The new AEM VCU's and the additional development they're putting in to outperform the factory Tesla control units are giving me very very bad thoughts (for garage space and wallet health). Edit: What I'm saying is, I vote Tesla swap with AEM controls. https://www.autoevolution.com/news/aem-ev-delivers-more-power-to-tesla-ev-conversions-with-its-new-control-system-155435.html McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 21:25
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