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My lumberyard used to be perfect. They’re a huge distributor and so they have amazing prices and great quality and the guys in the warehouse were as friendly as could be and would let us pick stuff. A year or two ago they swapped insurance and can’t let any customers into the warehouse so I can’t pick my own wood anymore. At least that means nobody else can either, so nothing has been picked through for all the nice stuff. I just order 25% more at a time and it works out okay, and it’s still cheaper and better wood than going to the retail yard where I can pick through all the picked through 3” wide boards I don’t want. My lumberyard mostly deals with people buying thousands of bf at a time, so I’m honestly glad they do business with me at all. I wish they’d at least let me ask for 8” or wider stuff sometimes, but I can deal. I never complain or make any trouble and I bring the warehouse guys donuts and make sure they know my name. They definitely look out for me when they’re pulling my stuff. I wish I’d taken pictures of their old warehouse-they had plywood and spanish cedar stacked 30’ high to the ceiling. One of the largest mahogany importers in the country is a few hours away and that place is pretty nuts too. Literally millions of bf of mahogany stacked up like an Indiana Jones warehouse. E: shameful snipe Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jan 26, 2021 |
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Jan 26, 2021 17:44
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If you liked 50kg bench, you're going to love 105kg coffee table- Cutting the legs and sanding tomorrow. I do not like picking this thing up off the floor.
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Jan 26, 2021 17:59
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My go to yard will let you hand pick if its not busy (ie not in the morning with the contractor rush). They will also deliver for free on orders over $300 but they give you the poo poo end of a stick  drat near 99% sap wood cherry, knotty walnut, s2s rejected by someone else. Great for sheet good delivery but hardwood has been disappointing on the delivery side.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:03
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My folks got me my first miter saw for Xmas and I'm reading through the user guide. Well, I never thought to, but now that the idea has been planted in my mind!
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Jan 26, 2021 18:17
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miter saw would be terrible for slicing meats. they are trying to help you out here, they dont want you turning a nice roast into hamburger
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Jan 26, 2021 18:23
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Bandsaws for cutting meat are absolutely a thing though.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you're buying from a small mill like that they may not be grading stuff, but learning a bit about the hardwood lumber grading rules is helpful for knowing what to expect, especially if you have to buy lumber sight-unseen. They do grade mark them and they're mostly sorted by grade in the stacks, but I can't tell much beyond that before it gets planed. The prices are far better than anywhere else I can get lumber around here though I have no idea if they're good in the grand scheme of things. I think I paid $3.50/bf for the 4/4 F1F cherry I picked up over the weekend and $4/bf for FAS.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Bandsaws for cutting meat are absolutely a thing though. Has anyone used a jointer to deli slice meat? Disconnect the dust hose and its a meat shoot.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:52
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JEEVES420 posted:Has anyone used a jointer to deli slice meat? Disconnect the dust hose and its a meat shoot. jointer is more of a cheese slicer
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Jan 26, 2021 18:56
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I'm going to be honest, when I asked about that Jointer I was mostly looking for confirmation as I had already made the order  Amazon Warehouse has some bizarre prices. This particular model of jointer goes for $500 on Canadian Amazon normally, but I got this "used" for less than half that price:https://www.amazon.ca/CRAFTSMAN-CMEW020-Amp-Benchtop-Jointer/dp/B07Y476PHF/ It arrived today! It was described as having "significant cosmetic damage on the front" but that seems to only be the actual box! The jointer itself and all the accessories are still in the heat sealed plastic, this has never been touched by human hands since it left China: 
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Jan 26, 2021 19:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Bandsaws for cutting meat are absolutely a thing though. I once used my small bandsaw to cut a huge block of frozen ground beef in half. I was trying to avoid defrosting the whole block. Took me an hour to get all the bits of meat out of the tight spaces in the saw. They didn't stay frozen very long. I do not recommend doing this.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Bandsaws for cutting meat are absolutely a thing though. I've done that with frozen meat. Not too much to clean up, but you better get it all. This is where resin and sawdust clumps come in handy.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:14
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I could use some help on figuring out a project, and hopefully there is some specialty hinge or hardware that I'm missing that will solve this: my parents have asked for a dropleaf table for their Old Person Retirement RV, and they want some very specific things: this is a booth setup, it has to be a walnut top and leg, a "rule joint" specifically at the drop leaf, and little to no visible hardware/fasteners. This seems to be more of an engineering problem than a woodworking problem. They originally asked for a folding leg that can be folded out/locked in place, which I'm having some trouble getting the dimensions to work correctly without it running into something and not being able to fold back up. I'm also trying to build this with the consideration that they may not be flexible enough in a few years to bend over and fiddle with latches easily, so I want it simple. The table itself will be 21"x39" in total, with a fixed 14" section and a folding 25" section. There's an 11" wide, 5" tall wheel well with a small 11" cabinet above it. Here's the best I can come up with: a short stub coming from the bottom of the table, with a pin hinge piece, and a second removeable pin to keep the leg from getting kicked out of place. I don't think this is a great solution, but can't think of anything else that fits this space and these dimensions. Is there another hardware solution that I'm missing here that would solve this? The other option is to make the leg completely removable and attach it when unfolding the table, and my thought there was to make a cutout (essentially an open mortise at the end of the table) with a mating piece on the leg, and then somehow latching that in place. The "screw in" type leg attachments won't work in this application because the drop leaf hinge joint prevents the table from being lifted up to attach. Is there some kind of other hardware would be used for that and still prevent the leg from being able to get accidentally kicked outward by someone getting up. Any ideas on how to get this setup to work in this space? Here's a drawing of the area: 
Discomancer fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 02:01
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Has anybody ever used reclaimed wood for a project? Someone is selling some old growth fir for $8 a board (2x4x10'). I think they're just studs that they pulled out of an old building. Might make a neat table if they're not rotted or anything.
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Jan 27, 2021 04:38
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Has anybody ever used reclaimed wood for a project? Someone is selling some old growth fir for $8 a board (2x4x10'). I think they're just studs that they pulled out of an old building. Might make a neat table if they're not rotted or anything. watch for nails. In my experience you're better off cutting out chunks that may have nails than trying to pull them out and/or working around them. Other than that it's really satisfying to know that you've saved some material from a landfill or burn pile.
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Jan 27, 2021 05:02
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Almost everything I build is made from wood reclaimed from the footpath. Mostly because I’m a cheapskate but also cause there really isn’t a good timber yard around here. Get really strong magnets to check for nails and fastenings. I use a scrub plane to clean up wood after pulling all the nails and staples first since hitting a nail or staple with a hand plane is less painful than my jointer hitting one. Reclaimed wood will also be really stable and likely have some nice character. Not to mention saving material from going to landfill or worse, being burnt and sent into the atmosphere.
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Jan 27, 2021 07:48
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Has anybody ever used reclaimed wood for a project? Someone is selling some old growth fir for $8 a board (2x4x10'). I think they're just studs that they pulled out of an old building. Might make a neat table if they're not rotted or anything. I am a wood goblin that harvests wood from all sorts of garbage. But paying for recycled wood? Hmm I donno....  Be sure to check it with a rare earth magnet to find the nails.
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Jan 27, 2021 08:01
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I wish I could find reclaimed wood. Really jealous of Matthias Wandel who seems to be finding plywood and furniture lying on the roads...
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Jan 27, 2021 09:15
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Thanks to whoever gave me the tip for bee's wax + mineral oil as a food safe finish. A beekeper dropped off two pounds of local bee's wax for me last night and I mixed it up and it looks amazing. I'll provide pictures once I've finished them entirely - going to do a few more rubbing (and heat gun) sessions before they're ready.
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Jan 27, 2021 16:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:I wish I could find reclaimed wood. Really jealous of Matthias Wandel who seems to be finding plywood and furniture lying on the roads... It helps to live next to a university dorm
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Jan 27, 2021 16:30
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CommonShore posted:Thanks to whoever gave me the tip for bee's wax + mineral oil as a food safe finish. A beekeper dropped off two pounds of local bee's wax for me last night and I mixed it up and it looks amazing. I'll provide pictures once I've finished them entirely - going to do a few more rubbing (and heat gun) sessions before they're ready.  It's pretty great, excellent quick finish for things that will get handled a lot. I use it on my cutting boards, spoons, and as a shop finish. Love not minding if it gets on my hands. My only caution would be watch if it gets on your workbench or other finishing table, it can transfer to other work pieces and mess with their finish.
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Jan 27, 2021 18:12
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My work table is finished in Mineral Oil, Bees wax, Shellac, Mineral spirits, Teak oil, Linseed oil, paint, resin, and muriatic acid  I really need to swap out the top but 
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Jan 27, 2021 18:28
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JEEVES420 posted:My work table is finished in Mineral Oil, Bees wax, Shellac, Mineral spirits, Teak oil, Linseed oil, paint, resin, and muriatic acid That's why my assembly/outfeed/flat surface table has a sheet of masonite screwed into it. I can replace it for like $3 and 5 minutes with a flush trim bit
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Jan 27, 2021 18:31
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I just throw down a cardboard box to catch the finishes that I don’t want hanging around. It’s close enough to 100% and who doesn’t have cardboard?
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Jan 27, 2021 18:33
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NomNomNom posted:
yeah I'm working on laquered sawhorses with construction paper on them because I'm a sloppy tornado. My hands smell really good. Plus it's a dirt cheap finish. Like $5 of mineral oil and $2 of wax goes a very very long way. I think it's going to be my go-to for anything where I'd use BLO but for which I have a reason not to use BLO specifically.
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Jan 27, 2021 18:45
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more falafel please posted:That's why my assembly/outfeed/flat surface table has a sheet of masonite screwed into it. I can replace it for like $3 and 5 minutes with a flush trim bit Mine is a 4x4 sheet of 3/4 HD ply. 1 sheet for $20 gets two tops and I can abuse the poo poo out of it. Its just one of those things that gets put off till it falls apart. I even get free rolls of 4' vinyl backer (waxed paper) out of the trash at work but never seem put any down.
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Jan 27, 2021 19:01
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NomNomNom posted:
Does yours look like a jar of jizz when cooled? That's what mine looks like
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Jan 27, 2021 21:47
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Danhenge posted:Does yours look like a jar of jizz when cooled? That's what mine looks like Be sure you label your jars so you don't mix up your bees wax with your jizz.
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Jan 27, 2021 22:17
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I am very interested in these jizz jars. What is the ratio of mineral oil to wax? And you just melt this together to make the mixture? Does it stay workable or you need to heat it up before use?
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Jan 27, 2021 22:25
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Rufio posted:I am very interested in these jizz jars. What is the ratio of mineral oil to wax? And you just melt this together to make the mixture? Does it stay workable or you need to heat it up before use? I did about 500 ml of oil to 60g of wax, which ratio i just got from google. It ends up being softer than just straight up wax, enough that the friction from the rag I was using to work it into the surface would melt it and spread it around.
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Jan 27, 2021 22:39
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CommonShore posted:I did about 500 ml of oil to 60g of wax do you measure the resulting mixture using volume, or mass?
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Jan 27, 2021 22:40
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Somewhere along the way, I read 9:1 was a good oil:wax ratio, and it's always served me well on cutting boards and guitar necks (and pure oil on fretboards). I've usually mixed up a half cup of oil to a TB of unmelted wax pellets, which is technically 8:1, but with the extra empty space in the spoon of wax pellets it gets you close enough. Huxley fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 22:41
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Equal parts turpentine (get some that smells good, and add OFF THE HEAT after the wax is melted) and beeswax is a very tradition polish too. No oil so it doesn’t darken the wood as much and you can put it over a film finish like shellac and it won’t get gummy because there is no oil. The turpentine solvent evaporates and leaves just beeswax.
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Jan 27, 2021 22:50
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9:1 oil to wax has been floated in this thread a few times over the last few years and it’s worked really well for me. I do prefer to warm it up to make sure it’s homogeneous before using, but I don’t know that it’s entirely necessary. I like it on all cutting boards and wood food surfaces 1-2 times a year. Just don’t put a hot sauce pan on it as it’ll melt the wax in the finish.
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Jan 27, 2021 23:06
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Add a tiny bit of citrus oil to your cutting board mix for that next level experience.
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Jan 27, 2021 23:19
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I was thinking about giving my waxed charcuterie boards a heat gun treatment just to really soak that finish into the pores. Thoughts?
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Jan 27, 2021 23:33
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Finished this dumb little stool. Couldn’t get the amber shellac to look good, so I sanded it down... not sure if I want to just leave it wabi sabi or strip off the shellac and paint it
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Jan 28, 2021 00:59
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Bouillon Rube posted:Finished this dumb little stool. Couldn’t get the amber shellac to look good, so I sanded it down... not sure if I want to just leave it wabi sabi or strip off the shellac and paint it Lao Tzu would be proud. the Tao of a stool is change. time will strip off the shellac for you at which point whoever is using the stool will decide if paint is its fate
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Jan 28, 2021 01:28
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Does anyone know how far from the edge table legs should be mounted? I've got a 74" butcher block and I can't figure out where to mount them so that it remains sturdy.
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Jan 28, 2021 02:09
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Bouillon Rube posted:Finished this dumb little stool. Couldn’t get the amber shellac to look good, so I sanded it down... not sure if I want to just leave it wabi sabi or strip off the shellac and paint it If you decide to paint it, you can paint over the shellac. Shellac is a great barrier coat/primer, and will help block the sap from those knots bleeding through the paint. You should sand with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper to degloss it and give the paint something to bite to. Niwrad posted:Does anyone know how far from the edge table legs should be mounted? I've got a 74" butcher block and I can't figure out where to mount them so that it remains sturdy.
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Jan 28, 2021 03:13
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