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zaepg posted:But it's just a simple resin crack fix. I'm not needing the whole thing replaced. 180 seems high. No it's not. That crack might last another five years or it might be a few temperature cycles away from going the rest of the way. You can't fix it with resin injection. 180 is normal for a new windshield. As noted above, insurance often covers a replacement every some number of years, at or least part of it.
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Jan 29, 2021 04:33
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Anyone with a ‘10 TSX ever had their windshield replaced, and the piece of trim didn’t stay clipped on because the installer broke the clips? My mechanic said ~$250 for the little piece of trim and that’s outrageous. Would I have better luck at a body shop for this thing? My mechanic shop said they would do it and I believe that they are shooting me straight on prices but JFC. Same day I found out lock motors for my model year are $625 each up from $225 last year so this is a couple-thousand dollar job. Not a great day NE: is there still a car-buying thread? I seem to remember one
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Jan 29, 2021 15:20
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life is killing me posted:Anyone with a ‘10 TSX ever had their windshield replaced, and the piece of trim didn’t stay clipped on because the installer broke the clips? My mechanic said ~$250 for the little piece of trim and that’s outrageous. Would I have better luck at a body shop for this thing? My mechanic shop said they would do it and I believe that they are shooting me straight on prices but JFC. Same day I found out lock motors for my model year are $625 each up from $225 last year so this is a couple-thousand dollar job. Not a great day It's over in Ask/Tell: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Jan 29, 2021 16:05
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King of False Promises posted:It's over in Ask/Tell: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 Thanks!
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Jan 29, 2021 16:15
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Backstory: I'm looking at picking up a 2020 or newer Honda Odyssey soon and was wondering about removable lift options. I'm in a Wrangler right now need a vehicle that is more useful more of the time, and the Odyssey fits me the best right now. That said, I really enjoy doing long, mixed terrain road trips and enjoy fire roads quite a bit. I don't mind losing 4x4 because a spotter and not being a knob has kept me from needing it except for at most 1 time a year. The ground clearance is going to be a big hit though. I'm willing to give it up and just rent a vehicle for the purpose if it comes to it, but a temporary compromise appeals to me. I'm curious what sorts of options are there for a minor lift on a non-offroad oriented vehicle and what are the ups and downs of each. I'm used to doing my own work including suspension, but I've only ever done parts swaps. I was wondering if the 2.5" lift kits I see advertised are the sort of thing I could swap in and out on my own for when I need the clearance? I would probably have a set of wheels with a slightly larger tire on it to squeeze 3" extra front and rear. How badly would a lift like that compromise the ride, stability, and mileage on the vehicle, and would it be a huge pain to install and remove?
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Jan 29, 2021 16:31
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Any particular reason for the Odyssey? You sound like a fairly good candidate for say, a LX. Probably rather do that then lift an Odyssey, which will take away a lot of the good aspects of the Odyssey.
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Jan 29, 2021 16:50
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I know that lifting a minivan isn't a great option, it is just something I thought could be a nice option since I'm pretty sure getting a more capable offroad vehicle will compromise the things I actually will need from the vehicle on a daily basis. If it's a horribly bad idea, then I will sigh and just borrow/rent something instead, but a $300 lift kit and an afternoon of work seems more appealing that a $1k+ rental fee a couple times a year. As for why, I need a vehicle for kid hauling first and foremost. I also do a lot of hauling of mixed materials like woodchips, garden tools, bikes, and rugs so need a lot of cargo volume on a weekly basis as well. A minivan gets me the cargo volume in the smallest package, and lets me haul kids very effectively, and the gas mileage is generally better than SUVs that have similar space inside. The new Sienna doesn't have removable seats so that is out. The Grand Caravan and Pacifica were strong contenders but I've had bad experiences with them in the past, and I don't trust them to not be as big a parts sink as my Wrangler is right now. Maybe the biggest thing is that minivans are also not very desirable right now so I can actually afford one for 30k or less with all modern everything. I also liked driving the Odyssey a lot and like how they look. 
Nyyen fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 17:14
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You'll have to do an alignment each time in both directions, I think. The tradeoff doesn't seem that worthwhile to me as the Odyssey will never be all that capable offroad, but if you are willing to invest the time it seems possible. Keep in mind Traxda suggest 3 hours for install which means the same again for removal. Can you buy a crap 4x4 as a second car? That would probably be the most appealing solution to me.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:32
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It's a possibility down the road. As for the lift I think I was mostly being hopeful that I could have my cake and eat it too, but I was thinking it would be a long shot. Even without a lift I think I can get most of the places I could want to go and if I really do miss it then I can look at other vehicle options. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:51
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Nyyen posted:It's a possibility down the road. As for the lift I think I was mostly being hopeful that I could have my cake and eat it too, but I was thinking it would be a long shot. Even without a lift I think I can get most of the places I could want to go and if I really do miss it then I can look at other vehicle options. Yeah, looking at your list it really seems like you're chasing a unicorn. No one vehicle is going to do all that. One vehicle for hauling, another for off-roading seems much more realistic.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:53
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What about an old Chevrolet Suburban or Ford Excursion? Both have tons of room. They're essentially trucks for hauling, but with seats installed you could move a whole passel of kids.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:59
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As a second vehicle, sure. As my primary, they compromise the main things I need in order to be better at something I would do only a few times a year. And I'm tired of aging, second-hand rides with unknown maintenance needs. My Wrangler has given me enough of that for the rest of my life.
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Jan 29, 2021 18:04
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Safety Dance posted:What about an old Chevrolet Suburban or Ford Excursion? Both have tons of room. They're essentially trucks for hauling, but with seats installed you could move a whole passel of kids. the brother wants safety and modern features so yes if he's willing to just... not have those things sure that would work
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Jan 29, 2021 18:15
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life is killing me posted:Anyone with a ‘10 TSX ever had their windshield replaced, and the piece of trim didn’t stay clipped on because the installer broke the clips? My mechanic said ~$250 for the little piece of trim and that’s outrageous. Would I have better luck at a body shop for this thing? My mechanic shop said they would do it and I believe that they are shooting me straight on prices but JFC. Same day I found out lock motors for my model year are $625 each up from $225 last year so this is a couple-thousand dollar job. Not a great day Do you still have the piece of trim? Is it the side trim piece? I'm bored, so a quick google search showed this is a very common problem, and there are a few solutions. Replacing the clips is an option, so is using a 3M trim/body adhesive to glue the trim in place. Replacing the entire thing is like 250 bucks (retail), but the clips themselves are like 10 bucks, and some 3M adhesive is probably 20 bucks or less.
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Jan 29, 2021 18:23
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skipdogg posted:Do you still have the piece of trim? Is it the side trim piece? I’ve got the piece of trim. It’s currently being held in place at the top with painter’s tape which has worked remarkably and unexpectedly well for tape which doesn’t have great adhesive properties. Yes it’s the skinny piece of side trim, goes on either side of the windshield. The mechanic I use is comprised mainly of old Honda/Acura dealer mechanics and has a great reputation and a lot of knowledge but even they weren’t sure if just the clips could be done (or perhaps they couldn’t find them). The price they quoted me was the $250 including labor, I opted out of that since my repair estimates were getting quite high, but I’m not sure I wanna glue it in place to save money? I’d rather do the clips if it can be done by me and just save a trip to the mechanic
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Jan 29, 2021 19:22
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:the brother wants safety and modern features so yes if he's willing to just... not have those things sure that would work That’s why you have a passel of kids.
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Jan 29, 2021 19:24
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life is killing me posted:I’ve got the piece of trim. It’s currently being held in place at the top with painter’s tape which has worked remarkably and unexpectedly well for tape which doesn’t have great adhesive properties. Yes it’s the skinny piece of side trim, goes on either side of the windshield. No personal experience with this car, but the parts are out there https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~clip~a~fr~side~garni~91573-tl2-305.html There's a couple YT videos as well that cover it. Honestly though, the clips are going to be 50 bucks if you need to replace all of them. I'd be on the fence on just picking up a tube of urethane and gluing the trim piece down. Either way should avoid replacing the entire thing hopefully.
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Jan 29, 2021 19:43
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:That’s why you have a passel of kids. or don't have kids and don't care about safety, win win!
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Jan 29, 2021 19:43
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life is killing me posted:Anyone with a ‘10 TSX ever had their windshield replaced, and the piece of trim didn’t stay clipped on because the installer broke the clips? My mechanic said ~$250 for the little piece of trim and that’s outrageous. Would I have better luck at a body shop for this thing? My mechanic shop said they would do it and I believe that they are shooting me straight on prices but JFC. Same day I found out lock motors for my model year are $625 each up from $225 last year so this is a couple-thousand dollar job. Not a great day
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Jan 29, 2021 21:16
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PainterofCrap posted:Do you have collision coverage on it? If so, your insurance may pay to fix or replace the winshield under your glass coverage with little to no deductible. eddiewalker posted:Resin is for little rock chips and stuff under a couple inches. That thing is likely to crack all the way across next time you use your defroster. Replace the whole thing. I’d consider anything under $200 fair, especially if the repair guy comes to you. Thanks! I'll be getting it replaced next week. *I use the cheapest Gieco insurance policy.
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Jan 29, 2021 21:34
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simplefish posted:Why isn't the person who broke it paying? It only started recently, so for a few months after it was fine so I would assume they’d try and get out from under that. But, worth a shot I guess?
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Jan 29, 2021 22:53
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It was a good day today
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Jan 29, 2021 23:10
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Installing the rear spring leafs. Pictured is the bolt that was recommended by rock auto to fit my Tacoma configuration, does this look right? It's the forward bolt attachment. Feels weird to have the threads running so far back. But it's also probably what let the last one get rusted into the spring bolt hole.  Yep, I know it's rusted as hell. I'm wire brushing that down and painting it. Doesn't look like it's getting right into the frame yet.
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Jan 30, 2021 02:33
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Cover that bolt in never seize and send it.
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Jan 30, 2021 02:50
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Motronic posted:Cover that bolt in never seize and send it. Cool, I was gonna use red and tacky.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:05
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I'm not an engineer, but don't you typically want the bolt shoulder to be long enough that you don't have threads inside the........ Mount? I ask because the threads are the weak spots, but A: like I said I'm not an engineer and if its a grade 8 bolt its probably fine, B: maybe its not so easy to find a bolt with a shoulder that is (possibly) some odd length that fits that particular application, though a couple flat washers could help that situation if the shoulder was a bit too long.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:17
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wesleywillis posted:I'm not an engineer, but don't you typically want the bolt shoulder to be long enough that you don't have threads inside the........ Mount? Yes. But this is close enough. A: And that's obviously not a grade 8 bolt. It's arguable whether you want that or not in this application for bend vs. break. B: Not enough room, doesn't matter that much.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:23
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You want that, yeah, but if there's a choice between "just barely not enough threads so it bottoms out before reaching specified torque" and "have a few extra threads", the second is always the better option. Based on the plating color and vehicle, that's probably an 8.8 or maybe 9.8 metric bolt. OEM would likely be 9.8 or 10.9, maybe 12.9. I dunno why aftermarket suppliers love to underspec bolts but it doesn't seem to cause issues in practice even though I hate it.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:24
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My 2000 Sienna has been at the shop for a while. They've had it 8 working days and haven't completed an estimate. Admittedly my list of stuff to fix was pretty long, with some involved repairs like replacing all the shocks, frankensteining my front suspension with springs from a later model, new windshield, etc. There was also some diag work, like the dead speedo and check engine light, but those came with an obvious torn up sensor cable, so I don't think the diag has them stumped. I've called a couple times and it's been "we're working on the estimate, need to get prices for a couple more parts". I haven't pinged them in the last couple days, though. Is this weird? Should I be mad it's taking so long? I don't need the car back right away, strictly speaking. On the other hand, this is prime winter camping time and I will want to do stuff. Basically asking what people think before I call 'em up on Monday.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:30
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ryanrs posted:My 2000 Sienna has been at the shop for a while. They've had it 8 working days and haven't completed an estimate. Admittedly my list of stuff to fix was pretty long, with some involved repairs like replacing all the shocks, frankensteining my front suspension with springs from a later model, new windshield, etc. There was also some diag work, like the dead speedo and check engine light, but those came with an obvious torn up sensor cable, so I don't think the diag has them stumped. Wait what? The stuff you ware talking about here like " frankensteining my front suspension with springs from a later model" were things you brought to a shop? Unless this is some specialty shop that turns vans into 4 wheelers that doesn't exist they don't want that work. You will get a "gently caress you" estimate. This isn't gonna work. Unless you're a well heeled man who just wants this weird thing and can PAY for it. I think it's time to talk about expectations and budgets to see what you can reasonably do here.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:34
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On one hand every Mechanic is having all sorts of delays due to COVID disruptions but on the other hand they should have communicated that you. 8 days is a long time for a very common make like a Toyota be stuck in a garage. But it also sounds like your vehicle is a can of worms. I'd call them up and just straight up ask them: "Roughly how much would all these items cost if you were able to get the parts today?" Because given that long list of stuff it might be worth thinking about whether it's even worth paying for all these fixes for such an old vehicle. I brought a similar can of worms ('04 Highlander rebuild) to my guy and my Mechanic wouldn't even touch it and told me the repairs would never end. melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 04:37
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It's an independent shop that I bring all my cars to. I've used them for years. But I suppose this might be a "gently caress you". Seems weird. Changing a spring doesn't seem like that big of a deal when you're already replacing the strut? I know they don't usually use kits.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:45
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melon cat posted:Because given that long list of stuff it might be worth thinking about whether it's even worth paying for all these fixes for such an old vehicle. I brought a similar can of worms ('04 Highlander rebuild) to my guy and my Mechanic wouldn't even touch it and told me the repairs would never end. Yes, definitely, that's why I'm eager for a quote and to chat on the phone. The van isn't really a box of worms. I'm basically the original owner (well, family). Dead shocks and engine mounts are expected on a 20yo vehicle, I think? The broken speedo was less of a case of "why did my speedo die" and more like "so that's what that torn wiring harness was for". I feel like my mechanic should be on board with my hobby, which is destroying cars and then paying to get them fixed. But maybe they aren't?
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Jan 30, 2021 04:55
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ryanrs posted:Changing a spring doesn't seem like that big of a deal when you're already replacing the strut? I know they don't usually use kits. Yeah, that seems totally easy when it's not your liability insurance and living. Nobody wants this kind of work when they have regular repair work to cover their bills. Maybe your area of the country is different, but like.......no....nobody wants to do that poo poo at a regular shop.
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Jan 30, 2021 05:02
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OK, weird. I did not expect that.
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Jan 30, 2021 05:06
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Whats the deal with High mileage oils? Specifically Castrol GTX high mileage. And more Specifically the 5w30 My friend's mom has an 08 Subaru legacy. Is a bit low on oil and she wants to top it up. Shes a 70 something and I don't mind doing poo poo for her since she's always been so nice to me. I've always heard "don't mix different brands of oils" or different weights of oils. I never bothered listening to the different brands part, but unless desperate for SOME kind of oil, I'd never mix different weights. So, typically she gets this stuff: https://www.partsource.ca/products/castrol-gtx-conventional-motor-oil-1l?_pos=1&_sid=1e5e22405&_ss=r But I can't really find that anywhere that sell it that doesn't require ordering online and then waiting. A lot of local places have lovely curbside pick up times. The local napa, which if I'm not mistaken I can walk in (masked obv..) and pick up some of this poo poo: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/CAS0001638?partTypeName=Engine+Oil+-+Universal&impressionRank=2&keywordInput=castrol I'm not worried so much about because its the same weight and same brand, but IIRC the high mileage oil has some stuff in it that causes seals to swell a bit to reduce leaks. Is there any reason I shouldn't use it with the other type of 5w30?
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Jan 30, 2021 14:01
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ryanrs posted:OK, weird. I did not expect that. There's a reason offroad specialty shops exist.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:15
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Should I replace my brake pads? 2008 Rabbit 137k miles, manual. Check Brakes light came on, no pulling under barking or noises, etc. Checked all my pads, inside and outsides all worn evenly. Front pads 8.5mm, rears 4.7mm. My understanding is 4mm is minimum and the fronts should be doing most of the braking/receive more wear. I also thought there were only wear sensors on the fronts so I'm not sure why the check brake light came on.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:53
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It could also come on because the brake fluid level is low in the reservoir...which will happen if the pads are nearing the end of their life expectancy, and fluid behind each caliper piston is taking the space formerly occupied by brake pad material. Whichever set you decide to replace (if not both), pushing or dialling the pistons into full retraction to get the new pads to fit will push the fluid back into the reservoir.
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Jan 30, 2021 18:10
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You really should flush the brakes at the same time as you do the pads and such - it's supposed to be done every 3ish years as fluid is hygroscopic, but no one does ever. Hopefully the bores of your calipers aren't rusty from it, because if so they will get stuck. You'll know if that happens.
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Jan 30, 2021 18:32
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