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corgski posted:At the top of the picture, is that NM stapled under the joists without a running board? What's a running board in this context?
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Feb 1, 2021 05:21
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BonerGhost posted:What's a running board in this context? One of two code legal ways to run NM through joists in an unfinished space. 
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Feb 1, 2021 06:03
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Brennanite posted:I am trying to fix a dripping faucet, but I cannot for the life of me get the old seat and spring out. I've tried screwdrivers of various sizes and heads, allen wrenches, fingernails, etc. I can't even get the lip to move or lift. Help me fix my faucet before I fix it by declaring the bathroom sink to be an unnecessary luxury item.
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Feb 1, 2021 07:32
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corgski posted:At the top of the picture, is that NM stapled under the joists without a running board? I have an old house that has some of this.. some NM is run thorugh holes.. some appears to be stapled to joist.. I assume it was maybe code at one point for an unfinished basement area.
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Feb 1, 2021 15:39
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My house was built in 1930, I bought it in 1992. It has some surface-mounted NM I have no reason to mess with. Not sure when the NEMA was updated to get rid of it, but it hasn't been kosher for a while. Wiring is the least of the problems in that magic-eye photo.
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Feb 1, 2021 16:11
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I'd rather burn some extra wire to use the sill plates and carrying beams as the path for runs perpendicular to the joists in the basement. That protects the wire, but it also keeps it out of the way if the basement is later finished. I've seen plenty of houses where floor joists have been mangled by electricians with multiple holes (usually an unnecessary 3/4" or larger) all in the bottom 1/3 of the joist.
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Feb 1, 2021 16:24
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Nitrox posted:Can you put channel locks on it and spin it? I'm talking about the stupid little rubber gasket thing. Everything else disassembles nicely.
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Feb 1, 2021 16:51
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Brennanite posted:I'm talking about the stupid little rubber gasket thing. Everything else disassembles nicely. Try heating it up with a hair dryer
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Feb 1, 2021 20:18
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PainterofCrap posted:My house was built in 1930, I bought it in 1992. It has some surface-mounted NM I have no reason to mess with. Not sure when the NEMA was updated to get rid of it, but it hasn't been kosher for a while. The NEC banned that well before 12ga was color coded yellow, I know that much. But yeah, that's just a picture of unending horrors in every way - I just wanted the poster to be aware that there are more issues than just that tangle of plumbing there. B-Nasty posted:I'd rather burn some extra wire to use the sill plates and carrying beams as the path for runs perpendicular to the joists in the basement. That protects the wire, but it also keeps it out of the way if the basement is later finished. And conversely, if you're working on older houses putting the electrical on running boards is a great way to discourage people from trying to finish basements that should never be finished. Like mine for example. But anyway, this is the plumbing thread, let's move this conversation over to wiring. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 corgski fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 21:44
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Installed a shower with a diverter valve for a hand shower. The diverter valve and shower/mixing valve were roughed in with the same offset. Everything gets finished, looking great, putting on the handles for the shower fixtures--and crap... For the splashguard/escutcheon that came with the kit to work, the large nut needs to behind the shower wall. If the splash guard were to be used, there would be about an inch between the shower side and the escutcheon. Does anyone know of a trim kit out there to solve my problem? To use the splash guard that came with the Delta kit, I'd have to cut open the wall behind the mixing valve. Cut out the blocking, shift the blocking back and an inch or so, and reattach--all without screwing up any of the PEX or crimps. And then either refinish the recently finished wall or cover the gaping wound with one of those $15 white plastic covers... The shower mixing valve protruded the same amount. But the splash guard is two piece: a sleeve that slides over the cam assembly/the large nut protruding past the surround and then the splash guard slides over the sleeve. The same sleeve won't work with the diverter because the levers and shafts are a different size. Really hoping there is a trim kit my googlefu hasn't found because I really don't want to cut a hole in the wall.  
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Feb 2, 2021 21:00
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What's on the other side of the wall? Drywall is much easier to repair than tile
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Feb 3, 2021 01:25
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HycoCam posted:Installed a shower with a diverter valve for a hand shower. The diverter valve and shower/mixing valve were roughed in with the same offset. Everything gets finished, looking great, putting on the handles for the shower fixtures--and crap... For the splashguard/escutcheon that came with the kit to work, the large nut needs to behind the shower wall. Before cutting a hole in the wall I'd try modifying the escutcheon first - would pushing the center hole outwards give you the space you need to get it installed? Alternatively, how does it look if you install the escutcheon as is, and then caulk around the perimeter. Realize that no one but you is going to notice a 1/4 inch caulk line.
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Feb 3, 2021 02:54
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Nitrox posted:What's on the other side of the wall? Drywall is much easier to repair than tile But on a positive note--bell flange or deep escutcheon seem to be the magic words. I'll lose the position indicators on the delta flange. Hoping $15 gets the job done because I dread cutting open the wall. devicenull posted:Before cutting a hole in the wall I'd try modifying the escutcheon first - would pushing the center hole outwards give you the space you need to get it installed?  It would be a big gap--close to an inch. Cursed idea from the get go, though. Doomed to leak or need to be removed after the first shower. Speaking of which.... I've always put silicone on the top half of the flange and left the bottom open. That still the preferred method? HycoCam fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 03:12
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New (old-) home owner here. I have a shower pan with a drain in need of an overhaul. Based on the "repair" I see now I suspect it was leaking before, and will leak again in the future. Unless mildew is water proof???? It's ugly as hell and I want to try to make it better without ripping out the whole shower. Here it is https://imgur.com/NKKpzZV The once-white material surrounding the drain is hard, but can be chipped off and has a bit of give under the surface. Maybe someone got really wild with some caulking. After chipping off some mess, I uncovered a "MAAX" logo. I'm reasonably sure all the remodeling was done in 2008. After some research I came across two promising looking drains. (their site doesn't support direct linking https://parts.maax.com/zMAAX/public/PartsOnline?country=us&lang=en) A similar looking drain, this one installs from above (please god be this one?) 10000040 https://imgur.com/YbPrgNh https://parts.maax.com/POL/IMAGE/GUIDES/10003156DRAIN.PDF A similar looking drain, this one installs from above and below the shower pan 10040344 https://imgur.com/OaUG2Ej https://parts.maax.com/POL/IMAGE/GUIDES/10003156DRAIN.PDF I'm lmaoing all the way to home depot that they say "no caulk required" in the title of this drain. top notch. My plan right now is to pry all the material out from around the drain, which is going to suck so bad. Then unscrew, or pry off the drain cover and do something. Maybe just reapply the god-awful mess around the outside? Is there a better way? I see there are third party replacement drains, which after watching the video doesn't seem too bad of a project, but dang it would suck if it doesn't end up working: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wingtite-Replacement-Shower-Drain-in-Chrome-SD1000/306215439 How would you approach this?
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Feb 3, 2021 05:01
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Eurekapile posted:New (old-) home owner here. I have a shower pan with a drain in need of an overhaul. Based on the "repair" I see now I suspect it was leaking before, and will leak again in the future. Unless mildew is water proof???? It's ugly as hell and I want to try to make it better without ripping out the whole shower.
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Feb 3, 2021 05:35
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Eurekapile posted:New (old-) home owner here. I have a shower pan with a drain in need of an overhaul. Based on the "repair" I see now I suspect it was leaking before, and will leak again in the future. Unless mildew is water proof???? It's ugly as hell and I want to try to make it better without ripping out the whole shower. If I'm not mistaken, that waffle press (drain grate) is threaded on there.
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Feb 3, 2021 12:23
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I just had my hot water heater replaced by a pro this week. After turning back on the water to the house, my faucets sputtered a bit which I expected, and everything returned to normal - except for my washing machine. I've run several loads of laundry since then, and there is this continuous "sputtering" sound as during the first fill cycle. It seems to happen only during the first fill cycle of each load (lasts about 1-2 minutes), then stops. The water sounds normal during the rest of the fill cycles in the load, it's only the during the first filling that hear the sputtering. I can see the cold water hose bouncing around during this time. But it doesn't seem to affect the hot water hose (which is interesting, as the only recent change was the new hot water heater). I tried closing the washing machine's cold water supply valve about halfway to see if that would help, but it didn't. Some googling looks like installing a water hammer arrester might help, but it seems strange that this just started happening after getting the new water heater. Is trying a water hammer arrester the best bet? Or is there something else I can try checking first?
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Feb 6, 2021 18:50
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You've got air in the lines, and in the machine lines too. The 'pro' should have cleared the air from your lines from the lowest point in your house after replacing & filling the water heater. It's a minor nit-pick, but it would save him/her a few calls after service by alarmed homeowners hearing (temporary) water hammer for the first time. It should sort itself out after the next load or two.
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Feb 6, 2021 19:49
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PainterofCrap posted:You've got air in the lines, and in the machine lines too. OK, thanks - I'll run a few more loads and hopefully it will clear up.
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Feb 6, 2021 20:14
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Made an appointment to get all our old galvanized pipe replaced. They are replacing from the curbside because our water service line is also galvanized. That added almost 30% of the price alone. Decided to do a full manifold setup because that cost difference wasnt as bad. They are also replacing all our hose bibs with freeze resistant units. With that done, we are finished with all our 60s era plumbing and all the... fun... that goes along with it. We have spent more on plumbing in this place than anything else and hopefully will never have to think about it for a long time. I hope we at least get a christmas card next year, but we've spent enough that a nice bottle of bourbon would also be appreciated.
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Feb 7, 2021 01:15
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Can anyone vouch for screw in water hammer arrestors for a washing machine that will last? I'm averaging 3-6 months on a set before the pipes start slamming again.
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Feb 14, 2021 20:24
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opengl128 posted:Can anyone vouch for screw in water hammer arrestors for a washing machine that will last? I'm averaging 3-6 months on a set before the pipes start slamming again. What kind are you using? I've had the same set of sioux chief's (https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=water+hammer+arrestor&qid=1613331227&sr=8-6) on a washer for well over 3 years. If they are going so quickly all I can think of is you're using undersized ones for the severity of your water hammer/speed of the solenoids closing (totally a guess - I don't know if that will kill them or just make them not work well enough) or your water chemistry is eating them.
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Feb 14, 2021 20:36
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I've owned this house for about 10 years now. Maybe 5 years ago, water started backing up into the basement and it turned out that some sort of roots were invading our main sewer line in the front yard where it goes to the street. Plumber snaked it out and the problem was solved. Over time, the problem has resurfaced a bit more frequently each time until this last time - I had the line snaked out in August, and they said they didn't know what was blocking it, that they made it all the way through but never felt the cutter snag on anything so they weren't sure what the deal was. I paid the extra to have them cam it out, and they found the roots in the middle of my front yard.  The line appears to have clogged up again a week ago. It was snowy and wet (around 32F, the heavy wet snows), then it rained for a day, then it cratered to below 0F and has held there. It was shortly after cratering to 0F that the line clogged; I can't help but wonder if something in the line outside froze. Of course, that also doesn't answer why it didn't freeze a year or two ago when it was like -23F.  Because the boneheads that had this house before me made some . . . questionable . . . decisions, the cleanout on my stack has never been accessible. (The water heater is literally touching the plug, so I could never even hope to get it out without removing the water heater, and gently caress that). This means all the historical snaking has been done by pulling the toilet in the basement, which restricts the cutter size. My dad and I decided to put a new PVC cleanout into the copper stack last night, so we used some rubber boots, cut a section out, and put it in at a much more accessible location. We added the new cleanout in anticipation of having it snaked out again, but . . . I called 4 places yesterday, and nobody has yet called back or responded to my emails. In the meantime, after not using water for 8-10 hours or so, I dumped a gallon of Instant Power Main Line Cleaner into the basement drain where the water backs up into. It took the whole gallon easily this morning, so the next step will be pouring a stock pot full of boiling water down the drain in about 4 hours. If it takes all that, I'll run hot water for 5+ minutes to see if I get anything backing up. If it's STILL clear, then it'll be time to flush everything, start a load of dishes and a load of laundry I guess. I'm not sure why I posted this long and very boring story. I guess if anyone has any clever ideas that I haven't tried yet, or wants to tell me exactly how and why I'm a giant dipshit, I'll take either form of feedback! 
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Feb 14, 2021 20:55
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Motronic posted:What kind are you using? I've had the same set of sioux chief's (https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=water+hammer+arrestor&qid=1613331227&sr=8-6) on a washer for well over 3 years. Those exact ones were my first two sets. The first actually lasted just over 2 years. The second set were less than a year. Then I tried a couple other brands since (because the ones you linked more than doubled in price) and they've been even worse. We do have hard water but also a whole house softener. Washer is your typical front load LG from 5ish years ago.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:42
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Zarin posted:I've owned this house for about 10 years now. Maybe 5 years ago, water started backing up into the basement and it turned out that some sort of roots were invading our main sewer line in the front yard where it goes to the street. Plumber snaked it out and the problem was solved. Once you get it cleared, have you tried root killer?
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Feb 15, 2021 02:08
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Zarin posted:I'm not sure why I posted this long and very boring story. I guess if anyone has any clever ideas that I haven't tried yet, or wants to tell me exactly how and why I'm a giant dipshit, I'll take either form of feedback! Why can't you snake it yourself? If you installed a cleanout, you have enough general knowledge to do it. You can rent snakes at Home Depot for way less than a plumber will charge. It might actually be cheaper to buy one than pay a plumber.
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Feb 15, 2021 02:12
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devicenull posted:Once you get it cleared, have you tried root killer? I actually just saw "foaming root killer" on the shelf the other night, so I will be! B-Nasty posted:Why can't you snake it yourself? If you installed a cleanout, you have enough general knowledge to do it. Hmm, maybe I need to check out Home Depot then! I saw a 50' powered snake at Lowe's, but it was almost $300 and 1). I made the mistake of getting a house without a garage so I don't really have a good place to keep tools and 2). I think I'm moving soon. I didn't see anything available for rent at Lowe's; Home Depot isn't much further away, so good tip!
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Feb 15, 2021 04:53
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If there are roots in your pipes cutting them doesn't solve the problem, which is that there's places/breaks in your pipes for roots to get in (and your waste to get out).
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Feb 15, 2021 07:59
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cakesmith handyman posted:If there are roots in your pipes cutting them doesn't solve the problem, which is that there's places/breaks in your pipes for roots to get in (and your waste to get out). Yeah, I figure I'll have to do something about that eventually . . . decided to go back to school after moving in and that did a number on the finances. Only now starting to get stabilized after all that. As for an update, the first gallon of cleaner may have opened things up a little, but not much. Going to try the second gallon here in an hour or so. Then adding boiling water 8 hours after that. Might try and look up snake rental (although I don't have a truck, neither does my dad, and I can't imagine I'd want a snake machine in my trunk) but I've got a lot of work to do today/this week, so if some place calls me back I might take them up on it if the rates are reasonable. 
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Feb 15, 2021 12:19
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I have dealt with the root-invasion scenario for most of my career. You are approaching the point where I get involved...which is after the lines have been cleared, usually by using a reamer (not a snake) for the 2nd/3rd/4th time, become hopelessly blocked, and flood the lowest level of the home while you're showering. Eeither the reamer gets stuck in the pipe, or they pull out pieces of orangeburg or cast-iron. Root intrusion means the pipe is cracked/broken. There's time, but no way of knowing how much. One thing you can try: some homeowner's policies offer an endorsement for service line coverage. In the event you have a back-up that causes some claimable damage to your home, the service-line coverage covers the cost of digging up and replacing (at least) the damaged section of the line. It may be available through Geico and Progressive, possibly USAA. Call your agent and ask. It is not too late.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:27
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 My kitchen sink got clogged this morning. I took apart the p trap and pretty much every white piece that could be unscrewed, and there was no blockage. It's been really cold lately, could the issue be further down the line? What should I do? I hit it with some draino, and it made no difference at all. All it did was made the whole taking the p trap apart way more hazardous. When I run the garbage disposal, the water drains and goes to the other sink. I didn't look at the black hose that connects to the air gap unit. Is that worth investigating?
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Feb 16, 2021 01:45
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Bioshuffle posted:
Pull all the white pipe out again and snake through the opening in the wall. That black hose comes from your dishwasher, and is not going to be relevant here. You might also want to think about replacing that outlet, it almost looks burned around the ground hole on the top?
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Feb 16, 2021 01:59
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devicenull posted:Pull all the white pipe out again and snake through the opening in the wall. I recently replaced all the outlets, but totally forgot about this one. Will do. Is there a chance the garbage disposal could be a culprit at all? I was thinking about removing that black pipe that connects to the disposal to take a look. Then again, if that was blocked, water wouldn't back up to the other sink, right? We've been having some cold weather, so I'm wondering if something is frozen. Here in Texas we never get cold weather but it's been freezing lately.
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Feb 16, 2021 02:05
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I've had a room ready for a small bathroom for some time now, but finding a willing and available plumber has proved very difficult. Would I be foolish to attempt this myself? It's ~2x3m, will feature a standard toilet and sink, mirror/cabinet, and a large shower (probably off the shelf base/pan with sort of custom glass enclosure). Currently the room is stripped back to studs and subfloor, all the electrics are in and working, cold and hot feeds in place, and a hole already cut for a 100mm (4") waste pipe. The ceiling is already plastered, so I'd need to board and tile, though I may be able to find a tiler for that part. I've never tiled before. I've done some basic PEX plumbing before and have the tools, but I'm an amateur in that regard.
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Feb 16, 2021 13:36
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cakesmith handyman posted:If there are roots in your pipes cutting them doesn't solve the problem, which is that there's places/breaks in your pipes for roots to get in (and your waste to get out). If it's old clay pipe the pipe isn't really solidly connected so where the 2 bits overlap you can get roots seeking out the water in the pipes. Ideally you'd replace the pipes with modern materials but that's $$$$ compared to having someone reasonably priced come and run their rooter through the pipes. If it's been cammed and the pipe isn't broken anywhere then you've got something else happening and might be worth getting it cammed when it's acting up to see if maybe you have water ingress from ground water or something. I had a house built in 1908 with clay pipes and several trees on property, one being near the sewer line. Usually in may and October I'd call the plumbers that were down the street and ask em to come on by and run their bits through them.
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Feb 16, 2021 15:15
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've had a room ready for a small bathroom for some time now, but finding a willing and available plumber has proved very difficult. Would I be foolish to attempt this myself? Supply plumbing using PEX is pretty go/no go providing you do your research and know how/where to run it. You're obviously all good with that considering the scope of your project so far. The real issue I run into as a not-plumber is waste lines. Toilets are easy, but getting the sink drain right is always a pain for me if I'm doing it from scratch. I'm forever second guessing placement and expecting to find a problem at any point down the line from cabinet install to final hookup. This is obviously achievable as well if you do your research. I just don't think you'll have an issue other than second guessing.
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Feb 16, 2021 15:53
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Motronic posted:Supply plumbing using PEX is pretty go/no go providing you do your research and know how/where to run it. You're obviously all good with that considering the scope of your project so far. I agree entirely. Waste venting / drop rates feels like the area with the most possibility for unknown unknowns. My only saving grace I think is that it should be relatively safe to run the 4" pipe outside at a known-good slope and tie it into a nearby soil vent stack which I have accommodation for but haven't physically fitted yet. The sink should then be a single shot from the trap into the same soil pipe used by the toilet and shower. Edit: I should say that the other area I feel least competent in is water tightness of the shower enclosure, and after that doing tiling without loving it up.
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Feb 16, 2021 16:08
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Motronic posted:Supply plumbing using PEX is pretty go/no go providing you do your research and know how/where to run it. You're obviously all good with that considering the scope of your project so far. Any tips / advice on where I can research this. I do plan on eventually replacing my 40 year old iron supply pipes with PEX and wouldn't mind some advice on go/nogo and basic installation. first planned thing will be to deal with the spaghetti fuckup of my upstairs bathroom that currently is mostly unused but once I start actually going into the office and 2 adults are showering at the same time to get to work it'd be nice to be redone since it's a huge fuckup. (Copper to iron to faucet / toilet to the mixing valve)
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Feb 16, 2021 16:15
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tater_salad posted:Any tips / advice on where I can research this. I do plan on eventually replacing my 40 year old iron supply pipes with PEX and wouldn't mind some advice on go/nogo and basic installation. By go/no go I mean it in the sense that, unlike waste lines, you turn the water on and it's obvious if you've really screwed up because it will immediately start leaking. I'm not sure where to send you (but I'm sure someone else has something) because my knowledge comes from hands-on. What you should make it a point to learn is how people are running PEX from manifolds (home runs) and whether that makes sense for your replacement so you can plan around that, or if you're just going to replace things in-kind. There have to be some good plumbers on the youtubes.
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Feb 16, 2021 16:18
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I will say that I found JG Speedfit (a UK brand of push-fit connection) very simple to use, if a little pricey. Kinda offloaded all the complexity onto the product. I've had no leaks from that stuff in the 2 years of daily use since I installed it. Same for the compression-fit drains.
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Feb 16, 2021 16:22
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