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Nerobro posted:AAAAAAND it's done. eSun ABS+ is much more forgiving than actual ABS and its community-endorsed. I printed my entire V2 with a busted-rear end Wanhao i3 with a trash bag over it, so you can do it. Speed matters less than just maintaining a warm envelope.
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Feb 2, 2021 21:14
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Nerobro posted:AAAAAAND it's done. You can most likely use PETG instead.
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Feb 2, 2021 21:15
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You can most likely use PETG instead. From everything I've heard Petg should do what you want and be easier to print
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Feb 2, 2021 21:24
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"Can I just use PETG" is probably the #1 most ask beginner question in the Voron discord, and the answer is always "its a bad idea," especially if you want to build a fully enclosed printer. At high chamber temps, structural PETG parts tend to deform slowly. There are also a lot of parts designed with tight tolerances accounting for ABS shrinkage. ABS+ is really easy to print and not expensive.
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Feb 2, 2021 21:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Pad around object. It ignores object elevation, leaving your part contacting the plate however you've configured it, and creates a pad around your part with a gap but multiple sprues connecting everything. I like it quite a bit, it makes for much better supports when you're not using a full-sized pad. The one thing I've had to do is change the gap between the pad and part from 1mm to at least 2, the base layers end up a little bigger than the rest and I find they tend to fuse with the part with a 1mm gap, it usually ruins the part. I know about pad around object. You don't find that the pad sprues mar the surface finish? I did, and it was really annoying when this part only needed supports on very small and otherwise not visible areas. What setting do you have to change to alter the pad/part distance? The pad thickness (unsurprisingly) changes the pad in the Z axis and pad brim size controls how far it extends past the object perimeter but I don't see how to shrink it away from object walls. I guess I'm just surprised that there isn't a "no, seriously, turn it off" advanced setting considering how very tunable some of the FDM options in PrusaSlicer can get.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:40
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my mini is here!!! I just need to clear the space for it and then i'm putting it together eeee
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Feb 3, 2021 01:27
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csammis posted:I know about pad around object. You don't find that the pad sprues mar the surface finish? I did, and it was really annoying when this part only needed supports on very small and otherwise not visible areas. What setting do you have to change to alter the pad/part distance? The pad thickness (unsurprisingly) changes the pad in the Z axis and pad brim size controls how far it extends past the object perimeter but I don't see how to shrink it away from object walls. Just figured it out- set supports on build plate only; it also only seems to work if i set pad wall thickness to zero. It will put supports directly onto the build plate, idk why it's so hard to set up. Pad object gap lets you move the pad further away, although you also have to change the support base safety distance to be equal or greater.
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Feb 3, 2021 02:18
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So what's the deal with Vorons, anyway? I've kind of accidentally stumbled into doing contracted 3D printing for more than just pocket change and my Ender 3 V2 and the busted old original Ender 3 I recently sourced for pennies aren't enough to keep up with paid work and things that I want to print for myself. I was thinking of probably expanding with a couple more V2s since they're dirt cheap and reliable, but a CoreXY for faster prints is really tempting. A V0 would be big enough for most of the work I'm doing, cheaper than two more Ender V2s, and I can pick up a CR-10 or something similar for the odd big build. Is a Voron V0 kit something that can be reasonably assembled in a few days once everything is sourced and printed? And is the design generally reliable enough that I'm not super likely to screw something up and only realize the problem when prints start randomly failing weeks later? edit- this isn't something I expect to be doing as a "real" job long-term, so I'm kind of just looking for options to build a cost-effective and fun print farm that'll have paid for itself in a few weeks Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 03:54
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The voron crew runs like a business that doesn't sell any products. Changes are run through internal beta testers. When an update is released, you know it's been printed by at least a few dozen people and tested for a few hundred hours minimum. Same with sourcing recommendations and aliexpress vendors. There was some drama around the main guy's employer calling the project a conflict of interest and making him divest, then another guy kind of taking over and turning the whole community toxic, but they booted him and things got better. V1 is a well-refined "traditional" corexy. Solid printer with lots of features from V2 back ported in. If someone were shopping a D-Bot or Hypercube, I'd definitely show them the V1. V2 is an exercise in overkill. It's the most expensive and complicated to build, but there's a lot of cool-factor. It's designed to be fully-enclosed and excels at printing ABS. The bed is a completely stationary slab of 3/8" tooling plate. The entire gantry moves with 4 separately-controlled motors for Z and physically squares the bed and sets nozzle height automatically. Kind of a wank-fest, but I love mine. 350mm is supported, but 300 is the sweet spot for performance and cost. V0 was a pet-project of one design crew member. Small, compact, very fast was the goal. I don't know much about releases beyond V2 because my printer has been working well enough that I haven't watched the community closely for a year. Switchwire was the main dude's "lets design a bed-flinger just for giggles. Legacy is pretty new. I'm not really sure where it fits in https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/kixb2n/voron_legacy_release/ eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 04:35
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Honestly, they feel like a return to a lost part of the hobby. You have to source the thing, print it piece by piece, assemble it from hundreds of different pieces over days or weeks, then tune it. Your reward is a large volume, high performance machine. My goal is to replace my 3x Creality machines with 2x Vorons, but really I want a "project car".
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Feb 3, 2021 04:47
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Appreciate the info! Sounds like this might be what I'm looking for. Probably not the best bet if I was looking to turn this into a real business, but it seems like a nice excuse for a fun project that'll pay for itself a few times over. I actually kind of hate that my Enders are "done" and reliable workhorses, so having something to tinker on doesn't sound bad.
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Feb 3, 2021 05:46
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If you want, and are close enough to make it worth it, I am selling my CR10 machines with the "standard" upgrades. They're what I used for my production printing. Direct drive extruder, hardened nozzles, magnetic build plate, BLTouch & mesh level, filament runout, 600W AC bed, and 32bit board with silent drivers. The 300s are regular V6, the S4 is Volcano. I know they're not vorons, but they do work really well. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ insta fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 05:50
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That's super tempting, but the larger build volume of the CR-10 isn't something that I'm desperately in need of right now. Mostly just something I was idly considering if I decided to buy something tiny.
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Feb 3, 2021 06:17
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Paradoxish posted:So what's the deal with Vorons, anyway? To work backwards, if you're asking if you should build one, you probably shouldn't. When you buy a kit, you're getting...the hard parts. You still need to print the other bits. Then you need to figure out what what, and where, and build it. The manuals are good for... some... of them. I looked at vorons 6 months ago, and decided "no". This has already been answered. But to add... Voron's are... "complete ideas". And they are coherent designs by good groups of people. I'm emphasizing this, because frequently, even production machines are not as well thought out. Printers like the Voron are.. not hobby grade. And start at several thousand dollars. So about the Vorons. They're optimized for speed, to that end they're (mostly) core x-y designs. This means there very little actually "moving" when the printer is printing. While something like a Prusa, or an Ender, has the whole bed moving, and worse than that, as you print objects, the accelerations you can use change with the weight on the bed. As mentioned, Voron designs (excepting the legacy) have enclosure as part of the original design philosophy. So you get the consistent environment benefits that an enclosure provides. Also.. you can do heating. just... "it's what they are designed for". Going back to commercial designs, all high end printers are enclosed. (I can't think of any that are open.) While we're on that, having the printer enclosed, means it's easier to be around. You're less likely to run into wires, catch them on things, have things interfere with the work zone, you can do more cohearant cooling of the control electronics. Being a Bed-Z or a rising gantry type design, you're not moving the bed a lot, which means you won't have the common prusa problem where your bed power wires fatigue and fail. Or the ender problem, where the gantry, or bed wires get caught and break something, or cause mysterious lost steps. I'm a cheap bastard, and I just bought the parts kit for a V0. When i say cheap bastard, I've never spent more than $200 on a printer. Not my i2, not my geetech i3, not my monoprice mini delta, not my Ender 3 Pro. So here we are, febuary 2021, and I decided that this IS what I want to do, and it won't be tricky. I think spending the $550 on the V0 will provide me with good value for money. It wont' replace my Ender 3, but it will replace my MPMD. Becuase we're there. I already bought tool aluminum for an ender bed for a buddy of mine. When I saw that's how the voron's did it.... I was in love. Well... I'll document my build here, when the time comes. :-) Here's hoping aliexpress gets me parts in less than a year.
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Feb 3, 2021 07:40
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On an unrelated note, can any of you guys help me figure out what's going on here? This is two sides of the same part on opposite ends of the X-axis: Right side of print:  Left side of print:  It looks like... underextrusion, maybe? The tiny gaps appear on both sides of that raised feature on the bad side, while the good side is entirely clean. The side with the gaps also just looks a bit worse in general, but there aren't any real problems except at the corners where the raised feature meets the flat wall. This is printed on an original Ender 3 with the 4.2.2 board from a V2 and a few other changes, but nothing that should drastically impact print quality (ie, still using the stock hotend). The same part using the same gcode and filament prints flawlessly on my Ender 3 V2. It's been printing large and small parts pretty well for the past several weeks, so I was surprised when I saw this. This printer was in rough shape when I got it and needed some repairs, so I'm not ruling out some kind of mechanical issue, just trying to figure out where to start.
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Feb 3, 2021 15:49
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I think that's a slice issue. Most lkely you have your Z seam set to a corner. And that's the Z seam messing up the corner for you. You could set it to random.. or assign it a spot. Alternatively it's the classic "asymeteric cooling" that creality printers have. a Santansa duct will fix that.
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Feb 3, 2021 17:30
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Newegg apparently has the ender v2 on sale with a new user coupon for something like 210-230 at the moment. The seller is apparently not the greatest though, from what I hear. Might be worth it, might not, thought someone would wanna know.
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Feb 3, 2021 17:59
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Nerobro posted:I think that's a slice issue. Most lkely you have your Z seam set to a corner. And that's the Z seam messing up the corner for you. You could set it to random.. or assign it a spot. That's what I thought too, but I don't understand why the same gcode wouldn't produce these defects on my other printer if it's just the seam. I suppose it could be that this printer is just handling the seam poorly enough that the next layer can't adhere on the gap and it's just leading to these big missing chunks. I'll try setting up the seam manually and seeing if that makes a difference. Thanks!
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Feb 3, 2021 18:06
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Paradoxish posted:That's what I thought too, but I don't understand why the same gcode wouldn't produce these defects on my other printer if it's just the seam. I suppose it could be that this printer is just handling the seam poorly enough that the next layer can't adhere on the gap and it's just leading to these big missing chunks. I'll try setting up the seam manually and seeing if that makes a difference. Thanks! The asymmetrical cooling causes all sorts of weirdness. And since that's a sharp corner, part cooling could be the issue. That's why I talk about putting a good duct on the ender so much. You could also tell it to do the outside wall last.
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Feb 3, 2021 18:10
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Still seeing intermittent support issues where it doesn't attach to the model on this mars pro. Should I be looking into lift speed at all? Temperature of the room overnight matter? Im running it in my unfinished basement and it did dip below -20 last night
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Feb 3, 2021 18:11
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Yea, there's temps that resin needs to be in order to work correctly. I think about 30c is the best but that's a figure pulled not incompletely out of my rear end.
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Feb 3, 2021 18:23
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w00tmonger posted:Still seeing intermittent support issues where it doesn't attach to the model on this mars pro. The supports are being created properly but are pulling off of the model at some point, right? Reducing *bottom* lift speed is worth trying, it lowers the strain on the connection points at the critical moment they're likely to give up the ghost. I know for water-washable resin I was advised to lower the bottom lift speed to 70 from the default 90 and it worked very well. And yes, everything i've read says temperature often matters quite a bit, some resins are more forgiving than others. Try heating the vat up before printing, use a heat gun or sit it on a radiator or something; it's not an ideal fix, and after an hour or two you'll be back to baseline inside the enclosure, but it'll help you during the first few layers if you're having plate adhesion issues, and if your prints start out great but get lovely as you move up the model, it's a big tip-off. Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Yea, there's temps that resin needs to be in order to work correctly. I think about 30c is the best but that's a figure pulled not incompletely out of my rear end. Speaking of temperature, I got the parts for a tentative vat heater in today. couldn't source the polyimide film heaters with the right dimensions like i wanted from a convenient canadian source, so i went with a ceramic PTC heater that'll snug right up to the vat on either the front or back side. 12V, max temperature of 70C- a little hotter than i wanted but it'll only run intermittently- with temp control being handled by one of those W1209 thermostat modules. For now I think I'll just use elastics or a tied loop of silicone tubing to hold the heater pad on the vat side, maybe put sth insulating under/behind it to limit how much heat can bleed into the printer chassis or the z-axis components.  one thing i didn't think about is the thermistor; for now i'll have to run it into the vat, I guess I ought to make a clip-on holder for it to keep it tight to the edge of the vat so it can't get pinched by the build plate. Ideally I wouldn't use a physical thermistor at all but rather an IR temp sensor reading off the resin surface or the side of the vat a ways away from the heater, i think some prosumer resin printers that integrate heaters do it this way. I can think about that later, for now I'll design the probe holder and start testing the system out on a dry run before using it during a print.
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Feb 3, 2021 19:35
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w00tmonger posted:Still seeing intermittent support issues where it doesn't attach to the model on this mars pro. Fix the temps first. With the cold weather here, I forgot to turn on one of the heaters and 50% of the bases that normally print fine came off the supports. Since I’ve been running at 70-75 degrees consistently (and making sure I turn on the heaters) it’s been fine.
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Feb 3, 2021 19:53
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My wiggly layer problem came back and it turns out the other bolt on my hot end managed to loosen itself. Not sure what's up with that but hopefully loctite is the answer. It's really nice to just tighten something a bit and go back to getting perfect prints. Two more specialized microscope adapters in hand today and another currently printing.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:03
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Putting together the drat spool holder and doing the first-layer offset were a hell of a lot harder than any of the rest of getting the mini set up; only hitch I had really was that I needed to re-seat the connector for the thermistor, but once that was done, everything went smooth as silk. I'm honestly amazed at how much quieter it is than the monoprice mini, too. Just wish it were a left-handed setup rathr than right, but eh, w/e. Comparing the fresh Benchy to the last one I did on the monoprice is honestly amazing, the difference is huge. It's so much smoother and cleaner and clearer.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:43
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One of us! One of us!
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Feb 3, 2021 20:50
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 Look at it go!!! Also I learned that Josef Prusa is six years less one day younger than me and boy howdy that is annoying!!
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Feb 3, 2021 20:58
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Nerobro posted:The asymmetrical cooling causes all sorts of weirdness. And since that's a sharp corner, part cooling could be the issue. That's why I talk about putting a good duct on the ender so much. Yeah, I really should get around to printing Satsanas for both of these things. That might be my next move as soon as they aren't running around the clock printing stuff for other people.
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Feb 3, 2021 21:25
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My Prusa Mini+ is (finally) on the way 
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Feb 3, 2021 22:17
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Finally think I'm going to buy that drat Prusa. Anything I should know before I order? I haven't been caught up with 3D printing stuff since late 2019 but the current Prusa still seems like a great machine.
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Feb 4, 2021 00:18
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All the Prusas still are great machines. Nothing you need to know before ordering one except that it will take some time to arrive. Some people really like the textured build plate but personally I'm fine with the normal one. The only upgrade I make is to install a $15 hardened nozzle, and that's just because I like to print filaments with poo poo like glass and carbon fiber mixed in. If you're using regular plastic, the stock brass one is perfect.
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Feb 4, 2021 00:29
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I want to play a game. Was browsing the FB marketplace and saw this flashback machine on there. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/805734583584303/ Holy poo poo, that takes me back to 2014 and some hilarious printing mishaps (also people talk about the cost of a Prusa? Those machines were $600-800 back when they came out). I once put a Bondtech extruder on one of those machines and had the hilarious misfortune of the extruder lifting the carriage all the way to the top of the machine (because there was a tangle in the spool) and then slamming back down onto the build plate when the filament snapped and shattering everything (I think I even posted the results in this thread when it happened, maybe? Or maybe just posted about it and the resulting "gently caress this poo poo I'm going Office Space on this fucker"). Can you guys spot the many hilarious "upgrades" done to that machine?
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Feb 4, 2021 14:03
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I'm trying to thicken a flat object that breaks too easily. I'm looking at using 3D Builder to make it maybe three layers thicker. How would I go about doing that.
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Feb 4, 2021 21:19
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You need to post a picture of the object.
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Feb 4, 2021 21:23
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Sagebrush posted:You need to post a picture of the object. 
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Feb 4, 2021 22:25
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A plain old nonproportional scale in the Z axis oughta be fine. I don't have 3D builder so I dunno if it has a tool to do that, but it's a very simple operation so it should. VVVV or that, duh Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 22:30
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You could be real lazy and just scale z in your slicer.
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Feb 4, 2021 22:32
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Breaks to easy ... maybe thicker isn't the answer. Maybe PLA versus PETG? Or... maybe it's just not printing right so the layers suck. What are your slicer settings?
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Feb 4, 2021 23:14
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"Extrude Down" is the command you're looking for in 3D Builder. Just move the model up by the amount you want to thicken it, then extrude down from the bottom. Edit: or just stretch the z axis as mentioned above. TerminalSaint fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 23:56
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 I want a plane that goes out from the line on the left and "looks" along the slanted line going to the right (I am trying to align a camera). I can't for the life of me figure out how to create an appropriate construction plane. Also, not sure just working around the mesh of the petsfang is the best idea, the Ender 3 Fusion Project also doesn't seem 100% accurate, but this seemed like a better workflow than manually measuring all the dimensions I need.
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Feb 5, 2021 07:23
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