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Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about

Pablo Bluth posted:

Would someone competent mind sharing a telemetry lap for the M4 GT3 at Outlon Park (International, next week's VRS venue)? I recall I managed to rapidly fix a few of my worst habits fairly quickly when I first got in to iRacing. It doesn't need to be world record time; based on the records for other GT3 cars, I reckon my optimum is about 8 seconds off a top time.

If you post in the setups channel on discord someone should be able to lay you down a marker lap to work on

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Schorsch
Nov 23, 2010

Pablo Bluth posted:

Would someone competent mind sharing a telemetry lap for the M4 GT3 at Outlon Park (International, next week's VRS venue)? I recall I managed to rapidly fix a few of my worst habits fairly quickly when I first got in to iRacing. It doesn't need to be world record time; based on the records for other GT3 cars, I reckon my optimum is about 8 seconds off a top time.

Join the discord (and then the VRS team), so we can help better.
The records for Oulton are probably not useful, because of aero and tire model changes.
A few laps at 23°C track temp with the iRacing MDF sprint setup (+1 click of wing) gets me a 1:34.2 for starters.

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.
My consistency is all over the shop at the moment; PB is 1:38.4 but optimal is 1:36.8 so I'm not even close to putting together decent sectors . Next time I get the chance to do some laps I'll record my laps and start to appreciate the horror show of inconsistency.

I used to use Atlas and I've just managed to get it working again with some old data and workbooks. But I guess everyone uses VRS now?

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

Something to note: the default iRacing setups for the GT3s all seem to have ABS and TC disabled, which is going to make life way more difficult if you're learning. I hopped into the Fixed Ferrari at Daytona and that also seemed to have ABS way down. Having practiced a bunch and turned about 5 hrs of laps in the 24 in the somewhat similar handling Lambo, I figured it would be pretty easy. Boy, that turn 1 sure is fun (and about 10x harder) without ABS!

E: meant to say, I adapted to it reasonably fast, but if I had been trying to learn the track and car with that, I would have been in the wall a lot.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

Well got the GT Omega Apex today. A+ purchase for sure. Thank you to whomever linked it in the previous thread. Ordered some caster replacement grips for my chair so tomorrow I can work on getting into a comfortable position.

Mounted everything with no problem then realized I didn’t attach the RJ12 from the V3 pedals and had to tear it down to get to the port. Stripped the drat center hex nut on the V3 heel plate so had to work around that but got everything mounted and positioned and it’s a really nice setup.

Banzai 3
May 8, 2007
I'm only here for the weekly 24 bitchfest.
Pillbug

Douchebag posted:

I didn’t attach the RJ12 from the V3 pedals and had to tear it down to get to the port.

This is a drat rite of passage based on how many people have done this knowing how many came before them.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

Banzai 3 posted:

This is a drat rite of passage based on how many people have done this knowing how many came before them.

I was watching the loving Sim Racing Garage review/assembly video on this chassis too while I was putting it together. He specifically mentioned it, I was a loving dumbass haha.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Is there a consensus on the best overall wheel size for general purpose use? I race the 911 RSR, BMW GT3, and Skips mostly. Fanatec had a 30cm wheel, a 33 cm wheel, and the smaller 27(ish?) F1 style wheels.

waffle enthusiast fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Feb 5, 2021

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
It doesn't really matter a lot and is pretty much personal preference, so a consensus is unlikely. If you're choosing a rim initially, I'd say going for the one with the most/best positioned buttons is more important than size.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



This gentleman seems to believe 300mm is a good size for an all-around wheel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0SE7x_gA_o

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I tend to stick with the F1 style wheel because it works well with a 270 degree lock to lock ratio. I run it even on cars that don’t have an F1 style wheel irl

It’s mostly down to the fact that I like that better, more than it is about realism.

That’s one of the nice things about sim racing. I can run a Miata with a 270 degree lock to lock and an F1 wheel because I can and because I want to

V for Vegans
Jan 30, 2009
I think I need to find the setting that ads “objects in mirror are closer than they appear” to the rear view at the top of the screen, because it always makes those cars behind seem to far away and then I check the relative and they’re a second closer to me than I am to the person ahead who I think I’m catching up to.

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
I have a larger wheel and a formula style wheel. The big wheel is for regular cars, and the formula wheel is obviously for formula style cars and modern GT cars. Having more than one rim is probably overkill, but it adds to the immersion I think to have the right sized wheel for the car I'm driving.

SPACE HOMOS
Jan 12, 2005

V for Vegans posted:

I think I need to find the setting that ads “objects in mirror are closer than they appear” to the rear view at the top of the screen, because it always makes those cars behind seem to far away and then I check the relative and they’re a second closer to me than I am to the person ahead who I think I’m catching up to.

Lower the FOV of the virtual mirror some.

Panic! At The Tesco
Aug 19, 2005

FART


SPACE HOMOS posted:

Lower the FOV of the virtual mirror some.

Before I did this I used to feel like I was about to get turned on every oval corner.

Bentai
Jul 8, 2004


NERF THIS!


SPACE HOMOS posted:

Lower the FOV of the virtual mirror some.

What’s a good setting for it?

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
League race up, stream is here:


https://www.twitch.tv/teambearpope

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Finally pulled the trigger on the ClubSport pedals, wheel base, and R300 wheel. :getin:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

waffle enthusiast posted:

Finally pulled the trigger on the ClubSport pedals, wheel base, and R300 wheel. :getin:

Oh shitttt which pedals? V3? I'd love to try pedals with vibration.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Yeah. The V3. I was thinking about getting the piston kit as well, but decided to hold off until I get a sense of how the pedals feel by themselves.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

I got the stock V3’s. No brake mods or anything else. Love them. Love the throttle vibration when I’m pushing a car too hard and the brake response when ABS kicks in.

Theris
Oct 9, 2007

Douchebag posted:

I got the stock V3’s. No brake mods or anything else. Love them. Love the throttle vibration when I’m pushing a car too hard and the brake response when ABS kicks in.

The brake vibration on mine is too weak to feel if you're not really looking for it. Gas is great though, really came in handy in the P217 at Daytona.

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.
Twice now I've watched a bit of some VRS Oulton Park streams and seen the guy gently caress up the pitstop because they've been given the early pitstall...

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Pablo Bluth posted:

Twice now I've watched a bit of some VRS Oulton Park streams and seen the guy gently caress up the pitstop because they've been given the early pitstall...

I'm so used to Jim giving me the countdown in the pit lane that for the gooncar I just drove right by my first pitstall and then somehow also sped in the pits so had a 40s stop added to my fuel stop during the next lap.

SPACE HOMOS
Jan 12, 2005

Bentai posted:

What’s a good setting for it?

I run mine at 50, but you lose some situational awareness around the back corners of the car.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Just installed the Clubsport v3 pedals and CSL v2.5 wheel base on the Playseat Challenge. Woof is that a mismatch, but it’s still fun.

The pedals aren’t at a great angle in my current seating position, so I may have to pull ‘em and put on the extenders that make them more vertical, but the difference in pedal and wheel feel is pretty noticeable.

This was definitely a ridiculous upgrade from a G29

What do you guys have your brake force and damper set to?

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

waffle enthusiast posted:

Just installed the Clubsport v3 pedals and CSL v2.5 wheel base on the Playseat Challenge. Woof is that a mismatch, but it’s still fun.

The pedals aren’t at a great angle in my current seating position, so I may have to pull ‘em and put on the extenders that make them more vertical, but the difference in pedal and wheel feel is pretty noticeable.

This was definitely a ridiculous upgrade from a G29

What do you guys have your brake force and damper set to?

Brake force ZERO. I think in iRacing it actually says in the tooltip that the brakeforce is only for potentiometer type pedals, loadcell or direct drive to set it to zero. With my Thrustmaster I previously had the brake force at like 2.9 or whatever was recommended and I tuned it a tad. I could NOT brake period until I set it to zero. Instant locking of the brakes.

For Damper I have mine set to like 1 or 2, it's very low. I have the CSL Elite PS4 base and wheel so your base might be different than mine. I am just currently using the recommended iRacing settings I found on the Fanatec and iRacing forums. I make small tweaks to the FFB level based on the car and track I'm driving.

I also made one or 2 full turns on the red adjust knob for the brake pedal itself to shorten the throw of the pedal a bit, but that's a complete personal preference, I did not purchase the brake mods accessory pack either.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Are you talking about the BRF setting in the windows control panel (also found in the Fanalab app)? It goes from 0 to 100 and says that the default is 50. It was set to “min” by default when I installed the drivers for the pedals. I haven’t adjusted anything pedal related in iRacing

Set to 0, the brake functions largely like my old Logitech pedals; the bottom of the stroke is just under 100% brake pressure. With BRF set to 50, I’m getting about 30% brake force at full throw, then need to put probably another 30lbs or so of pressure on the brake to get to 100% brake force. I’m still trying to figure out the optimal setting there. It feels very weird coming from potentiometers and I’m missing a lot of corners.

Biggest issue right now is the pedals are sitting perpendicular parallel to the floor, which means my foot has a tendency to slip forward when at full throttle. Shoes help, but I may have to put some hockey tape on there, or otherwise figure out how to raise the angle of the pedal throw. And yes, I find myself looking around my basement for a square yard to put a real rig.

edit: lol I forgot everything is adjustable on these bad boys! https://youtu.be/ASrEvzp7IMQ

waffle enthusiast fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Feb 12, 2021

Fellblade
Apr 28, 2009
I will try and remember to check when I plug in for tonight's race with the discord crew, I have the same setup (get in here if you aren't already).

Also obligatory recommendation you buy the GT Omega Apex stand, it's solid and folds up for easy storage when not in use.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

I was referencing the iRacing settings. in iRacing I have brake force at zero.

For the windows driver settings I have everything at default mostly.

SEN: 1080
FF: 100%
DRI: -3
FEI: 0
FOR: 100%
SPR: 100%
DPR: 100%
BLI: OFF
SHO: 100%
BRF: MIN

But I have a different wheel base and wheel than you so I would start with the default settings on the fanatec forums. The only thing I really use Fanalabs for is to change around the LEDs and I rarely launch it now anyway.

MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno
Douchebag is referring to the Brake Force Factor setting in iRacing, it should always be 0 with load cell pedals. I have my brake force setting on my wheel base set to 30-40 depending on the car, with my CSL Elite pedals, damper is 0 for me.

Nybble
Jun 28, 2008

praise chuck, raise heck
Nth'ing the GT Omega Apex stand. We moved into a new place that didn't have carpet, so the G29 pedals were moving jusssst enough to throw me off. Got the stand, delivered extremely quickly. It's heavier than I expected, but it's so nice to be able to just move the whole thing as one unit to and from my desk where I'm usually working. Fired it up for a quick practice and was hitting PR's on a few tracks very quickly. Very nice to have trust that the wheel or pedals won't shift around.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Douchebag posted:

Brake force ZERO. I think in iRacing it actually says in the tooltip that the brakeforce is only for potentiometer type pedals, loadcell or direct drive to set it to zero. With my Thrustmaster I previously had the brake force at like 2.9 or whatever was recommended and I tuned it a tad. I could NOT brake period until I set it to zero. Instant locking of the brakes.

drat I didn't know this and had mine defaulted to some really high value. I just switched it to zero and I feel like I have so much more dynamic control over braking now :doh: feel like an idiot missing this for so long.

Fellblade
Apr 28, 2009
If it makes you feel better I also only found this out like last week after having load cell pedals for 6 months.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

Zaphod42 posted:

drat I didn't know this and had mine defaulted to some really high value. I just switched it to zero and I feel like I have so much more dynamic control over braking now :doh: feel like an idiot missing this for so long.

Probably less noticeable on road courses or non oval cars but I did a modified race and went into turn 3 after exiting the pits and applied a slight bit of pressure and it looped so fast. After recalibration a few times I started hunting around and figured it out.

MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno
I accidentally had my brake force factor to like 1.6 for the entire lead up and race of the Daytona 24. Realized it afterwards.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Even if you have the g29 pedals you should probably have that brake slider turned to 0 in iRacing because Logitech already has a non linear curve built into the potentiometer signal.

MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno
Also, who's an idiot and got distracted and bonked into the wall during the first stint of the Daytona 500, going 1 lap down on pace, getting repairs under green, speeding in the put lane and having a stop+15 penalty to go 4 laps down, get a wave by to get one of them back under yellow and then finish 3 laps down?


It's me.

Douchebag
Oct 21, 2005

MazeOfTzeentch posted:

Also, who's an idiot and got distracted and bonked into the wall during the first stint of the Daytona 500, going 1 lap down on pace, getting repairs under green, speeding in the put lane and having a stop+15 penalty to go 4 laps down, get a wave by to get one of them back under yellow and then finish 3 laps down?


It's me.

Congrats on finishing. I would have bailed after going 4 laps down in that long of a race.

I considered running it but after the 9 Daytona races I’ve done this week I realized I don’t have the attention span past 35 laps to do 200. I’m doing full seasons of ARCA and Trucks Fixed for 2021 S1, hence the number of races.

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MazeOfTzeentch
May 2, 2009

rip miso beno
It did convince me I don't really want to race the cup car more. Much prefer how the truck races.

I'm probably gonna go for the full 39 week season of C Open

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