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Yeah, that manual is atrocious. What has happened to pioneer? It says to connect it to the lighting switch terminal. That says to me that it expects 12V to control dim/not dim at the radio, even though that *should* be a solid orange wire. This video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JO66SzPE14I Agrees with that. You can bench test it easily enough. The official Pioneer video is pretty much as ambiguous as the manual. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kR2MO2kwFug It’s like they never considered that there could be two wires controlling dash lights, but it seems to be talking about connecting to 12V when lights are on as well.
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Feb 6, 2021 12:42
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Since I have to ask this is probably too advanced for me, but are there any resources that explain how steering wheel controls work/how to add in a similar functionality? I have a 2013 BRZ (no steering wheel controls) with a Sony AX200 head unit in it. The head unit has a couple buttons on it that don’t really do what I want, but it does have the functionality built in as I can do it through the remote control (which I really don’t like using while driving). There is a port on the port on the back of the head unit for a wired remote interface, a 3.5mm stereo jack that uses ground, first input and second input. From what I can tell the super simplified version is that when you press a button the voltage momentarily changes to a specific value which the head unit maps to an instruction. What I want to do is add a couple buttons (or even just one) next to the head unit to work in the same manner. I have some experience building circuits but mostly in the realm on guitar electronics, so I’m not worried about wiring a resistor to a button and then to a jack, but is this all much more complicated than that?
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Feb 6, 2021 23:22
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So I got my second TPA3116D2 installed (I reverse wired the first and it went  ) to drive my OEM rear sub and now I got King Kong in the trunk. Well maybe a rhesus monkey. But there is a buzzing and a whining when the engine is running. It’s fine when it’s off. So it’s some ignition noise getting into it. I’m gonna stick one of these in there and see if that fixes it unless you guys have any reason not to 10 Amp Inline Power Noise Suppressor Filter Eliminator Isolator Universal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ4RSS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_A291KJZCMDF22Y5G1J4F
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Feb 7, 2021 01:37
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DrChu posted:Since I have to ask this is probably too advanced for me, but are there any resources that explain how steering wheel controls work/how to add in a similar functionality? Yes don let me forget to look up the guides I found. Sorry I read too fast. I'm not sure I have an answer for this. I do know you can buy aftermarket steering wheel controls that use a receiver wired into your HU. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3KQF1N/ I also found this from Sony: https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/S1F1470 And Arduino does everything: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=230068.0 This guy has lots of information about Subaru pinouts. http://ae64.com/aswc-install.htm Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Feb 7, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 07:54
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i own every Bionicle posted:So I got my second TPA3116D2 installed (I reverse wired the first and it went Are you using an unshielded RCA cable, because that's the most common cause of ignition noise. That said, those AliExpress amps have pretty cheap filtering, which is why I run them off laptop power supplies, so it couldn't hurt.
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Feb 7, 2021 11:52
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DrChu posted:What I want to do is add a couple buttons (or even just one) next to the head unit to work in the same manner. I have some experience building circuits but mostly in the realm on guitar electronics, so I’m not worried about wiring a resistor to a button and then to a jack, but is this all much more complicated than that?
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Feb 7, 2021 17:39
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Don Dongington posted:Are you using an unshielded RCA cable, because that's the most common cause of ignition noise. That said, those AliExpress amps have pretty cheap filtering, which is why I run them off laptop power supplies, so it couldn't hurt. It’s a very short cable and I think it’s shielded....the ground was outside of the signal when I stripped it. I’ll get a better one just in case.
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Feb 7, 2021 18:07
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I have a Pioneer DMH-Z6350BT (DMHW4600NEX in the USA) that im pretty happy with. installed myself without issue. There is one small thing though... it will always boot up into the Pioneer UI with CarPlay as the source, but will only launch carplay UI automatically if my phone is unlocked. I did not pay $700AUD to use a lovely slow Pioneer interface to navigate into carplay via capacitive touch buttons. Anyone got an idea on this? nothing in the manual about auto-starting carplay (there is for android auto) or how to configure the phone/head unit to allow carplay to start without unlocking the device. My friend has a JVC wi-carplay unit that opens up carplay on its own without unlocking, so it must be there.
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Feb 8, 2021 01:27
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Laserface posted:I have a Pioneer DMH-Z6350BT (DMHW4600NEX in the USA) that im pretty happy with. installed myself without issue. There is one small thing though... No experience with that headunit but are you sure your phone has CarPlay while locked enabled? Settings -> General -> CarPlay -> (Name of Pioneer headunit) -> Allow CarPlay while locked.
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Feb 8, 2021 01:37
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i own every Bionicle posted:No experience with that headunit but are you sure your phone has CarPlay while locked enabled? Settings -> General -> CarPlay -> (Name of Pioneer headunit) -> Allow CarPlay while locked. that is not even a setting I can see on my phones carplay menu. all i see is 'customise' for the icons and 'carplay' which is turned on. the 'carplay' option has the description of "when your phone is nearby and you start your car, carplay will start automatically. you can use carplay over a wired or wireless connection without requiring faceID or a passcode" and that is enabled. e: im not connected to the car at the moment, if thats whats required to make that work. Laserface fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 01:40
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Laserface posted:that is not even a setting I can see on my phones carplay menu. Strange, I see the following menus which are for the three cars I have used with CarPlay:  When I select one of them I get this:  IPhone XR, iOS 14.4 Edit: Settings, faceID and passcode, allow USB accessory access while locked. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 01:57
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Maybe the wording is different because Im using Wireless Carplay? e: USB devices while locked is on, too. I'll un-pair the phone from the head unit and try again tonight.
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Feb 8, 2021 02:15
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Captain Cool posted:I used this site to wire a couple of paddle switches to my Pioneer. The resistor values may be different but hopefully the basic circuit is the same. That sounds a lot like what I’m looking for. Any pictures of the work you did?
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Feb 8, 2021 22:16
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anyone in here know how a scroll wheel (like a mouse) sends signals? is each up/down notch on the wheel effectively a button press? I want to replace my steering wheel volume control with a wheel instead of buttons because I have a sickness that can only be cured by having the ability to rapidly crank sick tunes in my car and my head unit is touchscreen only. I have the means to make the PCB and the plastic bezel to make it look neat and fit it to the wheel like its supposed to be there so thats not an issue.
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Feb 9, 2021 00:04
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Laserface posted:anyone in here know how a scroll wheel (like a mouse) sends signals? is each up/down notch on the wheel effectively a button press? The way the wheels work is two optical sensors that have their beams broken by a spoke in the wheel. By comparing the output of the optical sensors and time the mouse's microcontroller can tell which direction it's going and speed. The controller does send the wheel input to the computer as signals but it seems to depend on the way you're interfacing with the mouse as to what that looks like. A lot of it shows up as mouse wheel events which gives it a number based on how much movement there was on the wheel. It's very dependent on what level you're developing at since PS/2 interrupts and USB packets are very different. I don't think any of them are just a button press/switch contacting. If you're doing something custom you could wire a wheel that's doing rotary encoding (or optical encoding) to a microcontroller and code it to output whatever you want from the microcontroller when you turn it, including acting like a switch if you've got a transistor or relay.
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Feb 9, 2021 04:06
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DrChu posted:That sounds a lot like what I’m looking for. Any pictures of the work you did?  Paddle switches near my left knee mounted on some blank panel plugs. Volume on the left, Carplay display toggle and Siri on the right.   Overengineered circuit board because I was bored. Stuff options for resistors and diodes. Laserface posted:anyone in here know how a scroll wheel (like a mouse) sends signals? is each up/down notch on the wheel effectively a button press? I think I found what you're looking for. A continuous turning volume knob is a rotary encoder, specifically an incremental encoder. These have quadrature encoded outputs that require you to watch the sequence of two lines. For example: https://www.bourns.com/docs/Product-Datasheets/PEC12R.pdf From there you'll need a quadrature decoder chip/logic gate circuit/Arduino firmware that can turn that into direction pulses.
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Feb 9, 2021 07:23
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Are there any car stereos with wireless android auto for less than $500? Or is it just one of those features that cost a bunch of money for no good reason?
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Feb 21, 2021 05:39
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I'm looking into building a subwoofer for my car this year. On the Kicker U app, an 8" CompVR has a maximum sealed box volume of 1.8ft3, same as the 15" CompVR's minimum volume. Those two configurations generate identical response curves as far as I can tell. Does that sound right? What are the other tradeoffs on speaker size besides cost and power handling?
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Feb 23, 2021 05:17
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Any sub operating in an enclosure on the minimum end of the scale is going to be underperforming at low frequencies - yes you could put a 15" Comp in a 1.8cuft box, but you would not be getting the most out of it, and it would start to roll off pretty noticeably north of 30hz. Based on what you've said, the frequency response of the 8 at its peak performance is going to totally pale compared to a 10 or 12" in an optimal box. If you were space limited, you would be much better off with a 10 or 12 in an appropriate sized box, vs an 8 in an oversized box or a 15 in an undersized box. Cone area translates more strongly to volume than low frequency response, so an 8 or 10 is also going to underperform there too. I've had 10s, 15s and 12s of various qualities in all sorts of sealed and ported boxes, and my take is that a 10" that competes with a 12" will usually cost more than a 12" with similar performance; a 15" will always leave you with a stupid grin on your face, provided you have enough room for it and the massive box it requires; a 12" is a really good compromise between space and bass, and provided you put the right box around it and give it enough amplifier, should be enough for most non-competition setups.
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Feb 24, 2021 02:47
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Maybe im gettin old but Ive done a few under-seat sub installs now for both myself and friends and they are totally adequate for listening to music instead of trim/panel rattles. the Kicker HS8 I put in a friends car sounds legit incredible for its size.
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Feb 24, 2021 03:04
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Laserface posted:Maybe im gettin old but Ive done a few under-seat sub installs now for both myself and friends and they are totally adequate for listening to music instead of trim/panel rattles. I have an HS8 under the passenger seat of a single cab pickup. With decent speakers in the stock mounting holes running off the head unit, it's fine. While the cab is a small space, the wind noise is high and the bass never gets drowned out. I used scrap wood to built a spacer to keep it in place and attached the spacer to the seat mount. Besides that it was just running a wire through the firewall and conduit under the carpet. It's a decent compromise. In my case the thing takes up no space at all, leaving behind the seats for tools and poo poo.
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Feb 24, 2021 14:13
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After my car was broken into and my JL 10TW3 stolen, I opted for dual underseat mounted Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8 inch subs driven by a matching T500X1br 500W single channel amp for additional security. It doesn't have the same punch, but it levels nicely with the factory speakers driven by a Pioneer AVH4200 NEX.
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Feb 24, 2021 14:33
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Are there any car stereos with wireless android auto for less than $500? Or is it just one of those features that cost a bunch of money for no good reason? There is this at $400 https://jalopnik.com/the-boss-audio-systems-elite-be950wcpa-brings-your-cars-1846302735 I wouldn't really trust Boss, but I've never used their stuff myself. I guess you would only really use it to mirror your phone, so that might mitigate some awfulness.
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Feb 24, 2021 17:55
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Don Dongington posted:a 12" is a really good compromise between space and bass, and provided you put the right box around it and give it enough amplifier, should be enough for most non-competition setups. I think I have a plan. Trying to keep this under $400 to start. $150-200 mono class D amp, 250-500w. The Kicker CX400.1 looks good right now. Planning to mount it on a (non-conductive) shelf below the rear deck speakers. $70-100 12" driver $30 box materials - sealed box, 3/4" MDF, 13" x 13" x whatever the driver wants $100 cables and wires - running 4 awg power so I could add a four-channel amp later on
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Feb 26, 2021 05:19
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Finally had a chance to make a little progress on adding a wired remote control to my Sony headunit. While my searches for something like "wired steering wheel control" came up emptyhanded, I stumbled across the existence of wired remote controls for marine applications. As an experiment I bought the cheapest one I could find with a 3.5mm interface, a DUAL MRW15, plugged it into the headunit and it worked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2kw0JhFIPE Boring video of me pushing buttons. Unfortunately the mute function on the remote maps to the ATT function on the stereo, which only cuts the volume in half. Since one of my goals was to try to find an actual mute I'm going to need to do some more work. I compared the resistance values to the one in this link: Captain Cool posted:I used this site to wire a couple of paddle switches to my Pioneer. The resistor values may be different but hopefully the basic circuit is the same. And they were basically the same, so I think these are at least somewhat standardized. Now that I have an extension cord from the input routed into the console for easy acces, next step will be trying to duplicate one of these paths on a breadboard:  and then changing the resistors to play around with different values to see if they do different functions. Or maybe order one like this https://www.amazon.com/Wired-Remote...4548304&sr=8-11 that has more functions and see if they work as well (I assume the Mute on that would also be ATT, but the Source On and Off switches could be useful).
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Feb 28, 2021 22:55
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Are there any car stereos with wireless android auto for less than $500? Or is it just one of those features that cost a bunch of money for no good reason? I was about to ask the same thing for CarPlay. Crutchfield's cheapest is going for $600 and that is way too much for any head unit
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Mar 7, 2021 04:43
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The Kenwood Excelon DMX906S is available on Amazon for $500 or less. It has wireless CarPlay and android auto, and has a capacitive display. I bought one from Crutchfield a year or so ago and it’s been a good deck.
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Mar 7, 2021 07:01
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Dude no go to the "General" settings on the head unit and tap "Steering Control Custom". You can manually set every function to a different button. quote:Steering Control Custom I hope I'm not misunderstanding. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 14:52
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Wasabi the J posted:Dude no go to the "General" settings on the head unit and tap "Steering Control Custom". There's only about eight functions assignable through this way, none that I want. I'm hoping to find some more because the wireless remote can directly access like two dozen functions, but I can't use that while driving. Since the car has no steering wheel controls this is also a project to learn a little about how they work and being able to design a simple circuit.
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Mar 7, 2021 18:44
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Ah ok. Sorry I thought you were taking the hardcore route by mistake. I would like to know what you find, I haven't had time to research how it works, past finding out how to wire mine in.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:22
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DrChu posted:I'm hoping to find some more because the wireless remote can directly access like two dozen functions, but I can't use that while driving. If you want different buttons, you could open up the remote and solder some wires to the circuit board.
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Mar 8, 2021 04:40
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DrChu posted:Finally had a chance to make a little progress on adding a wired remote control to my Sony headunit. While my searches for something like "wired steering wheel control" came up emptyhanded, I stumbled across the existence of wired remote controls for marine applications. As an experiment I bought the cheapest one I could find with a 3.5mm interface, a DUAL MRW15, plugged it into the headunit and it worked. I've been searching for an easy way to add proper buttons to my cheap Chinese touch screen headunit. After looking at these and reading up based on your post I read the instructions for my radio and realised that it supports programmable I/O controls to deal with existing steering wheel controls (which i don't have) I have just ordered one of these for the princely sum of £2.50 and am assuming that I can use a selection of resistors to give me 4 programmable function buttons? I only really want volume and mute 
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Mar 8, 2021 11:17
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Don Dongington posted:Cone area translates more strongly to volume than low frequency response, so an 8 or 10 is also going to underperform there too. DA HO 10" DVC 90.5 dB @ 2.83V/1m DA HO 12" DVC 84.6 dB @ 2.83V/1m Is there something weird they're doing with this measurement? That 90.5 is an outlier anyway.
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Mar 10, 2021 03:25
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Has anyone ever gotten any worthwhile sense out of the USB or HDMI ports on 9th gen civics for android devices? Bluetooth has been lovely for me lately, while I think it may be the app rather than the phone, I'd like to try and achieve wired audio playback.
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Mar 19, 2021 17:17
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How good are those spare-tire mounted subs? I don't want to give up my cargo space, and I want to remain stealth. Alternatively, how much does a shop typically charge to build a custom box these days? I've seen some DIY jobs using the right rear quarter (there's some storage compartments in there), but I'd rather not DIY - I'm no good with wood or fiberglass. I do have a good sub and amp in storage. Something like this for a custom box - if someone could build the actual box, I'd be fine carpeting it myself and doing all the wiring. But I have NO clue what that would cost.  Using a stand-alone box is a no-go for this; partly because I sometimes camp in the car. And generally don't want to deal with yanking the box every time I haul something. Having it off to the side like that doesn't take up much usable room, I just lose a storage cubby. Pulling the cargo cover over it would hide it completely from outside. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 14:19
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I have a JDM import (Toyota Caldina 4WD wagon) and it came with the head unit removed. It is just the raw mess/bundle of wires, as seems to be par for the course they hacked off the harness. Also a rear view cam is wired in. I have a new android head unit and the classic Scosche adapter, but I haven’t installed a radio in 10-12 years. Should the wires be identifiable by a standard color or? This is really holding me back getting this car ready for sale, I keep putting it off.
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Mar 20, 2021 14:48
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Metra sells reverse harnesses for exactly this - to regain that factory plug. It's likely the exact same harness that every other 90s Toyota used.
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Mar 20, 2021 17:57
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everdave posted:I have a JDM import (Toyota Caldina 4WD wagon) and it came with the head unit removed. You can find which one you need easily by punching your cars information into Crutchfield's website.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:06
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Since it's a JDM car, Crutchfield likely will not have that car's info, but surely there's a US Toyota that's similar enough in their database.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:13
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STR posted:How good are those spare-tire mounted subs? I don't want to give up my cargo space, and I want to remain stealth. If you want complete stealth and practicality, a box molded into the spare tire is also an option. It's what i use in my 850 wagon and everything is completely hidden. Its made of fiberglass, but it wasn't too hard since the spare acts as the fiberglass mold. Its similar to the box in this thread, but with a full size 8' sub since i have a full size spare, and no hole cut in the floor. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-interior-modifications/38915-diy-fiberglass-spare-sub-box-56k-beware-tons-pics.html Not sure if you can get someone to make it for you though.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:19
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