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Rutibex posted:
It's a work in progress, still early, I've posted my last updates a few pages back. The board in question I believe will make one of the handles.
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Feb 8, 2021 17:28
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just another posted:No students today so I can focus on posting Most tradespeople care about their craft and it’s future and want to get kids interested in it. As far as tools and projects, you can do an awful lot with a crosscut saw and miter box, coping saw, hand drill (the one tool I would say a powered version of is okay-probably cheaper than a brace and bit too), combination square, hammer and nails, some rasps, sandpaper, and paint. A solid work surface is important too, as are a few f-clamps or c-clamps or a vise. Stick to basic dimensional construction 1x4’s, 6’s etc. and plan your projects to minimize rip cuts. The Japanese pull saws mentioned above are a fantastic all purpose saw for $20. A chisel and hand plane are nice and useful to have, but then you start getting into having to deal with sharpening stuff and that can be frustrating for all parties. Things like birdhouses, bookshelves etc are easy ways to get started. I have to believe there’s some digital archive of Popular Mechanics from the 50s that would be full of that kind of thing and not assume much in the way of tools or resources.
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Feb 8, 2021 17:51
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Totally slipped my mind earlier, but LAP just did a blog post about almost exactly this question with some links to further resources: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/02/06/limited-tool-kit-projects/ Some of the comments below the article have more suggestions.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:02
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just another posted:No students today so I can focus on posting Ah, I see. Unfortunately even the simplest boat kit I can think of, the old Midwest rowboats, would be more difficult than this due to the curves that boats tend to have, and framing. I'll keep my eyes open for something though
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Feb 8, 2021 18:22
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Jokes aside, rip cuts and surfacing stock are by far the most boring, tedious, physically exhausting parts of hand tool woodworking, but with a sharp saw and a decent bench it’s not as slow as you’d think. Laying down a good line to follow helps a lot too. I’ve posted it before but I use a kerfing plane for any rip/resaw cuts more than about 8 inches long.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:37
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Big Dick Cheney posted:I am trying to build a bassinet for our baby that will arrive soon and so far I have the basket part done. I have a question about the physics of swinging. Like someone else said, the speed that it will swing at is determined by the length between the pivot point and the center of gravity of the swinging mass. Longer distance = slower swing. Weight doesn't affect the rate at all. If you want to get all mathy here's the equation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pendulum#Period_of_oscillation The 'L' in that equation is the distance I'm talking about. If you make a best guess at where the CoG of the cradle+baby is I'll bet you can pretty accurately predict the swinging rate. No idea what rate babies prefer. Maybe get a collection of eye bolts with different lengths so you can tune it?
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Feb 8, 2021 19:09
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I "ripped" through about 8" of plywood with a cheap Ryoba, on the crosscut teeth, and managed to stay pretty well on my line. I didn't need the cut to be perfect, but it turned out pretty well.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:12
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The ryoba isn't really the best for any one job except for the job of "you're only allowed to buy one saw."
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Feb 8, 2021 19:14
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Question for you guys about tools; my shop area is pretty compact so I don't have room for a bandsaw/drill press/other things. I have a table saw and miter saw that can serve me well and a router, but I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescr...20114&gclsrc=ds In other content, I'm not a huge fan of live-edge wood, but I'd love to see what you fine folks could do with this: 
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Feb 8, 2021 19:18
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Blindeye posted:Question for you guys about tools; my shop area is pretty compact so I don't have room for a bandsaw/drill press/other things. I have a table saw and miter saw that can serve me well and a router, but I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: I would like to know, also. I was thinking about something that would require drilling straight holes at 45° and definitely can't do that by hand/eye.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:19
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Bouillon Rube posted:Do normal people actually try to do rip cuts with Ryoba saws (or any hand saws for that matter)? It seems like it would take forever and be really difficult to keep the line straight considering thst you can get a cheap circular saw with a rip fence for like $50 these days after I decided to not use my table saw yesterday, I hand ripped four red oak legs and planed the ripped face flat + square (enough) in around 2 hours total. my workshop is not particularly well set up for ripping stock like this and I have very limited experience actually doing this. certainly quite a bit slower than it would've been on the table saw, but not insurmountably so. doing it with a circ saw would've been a pain in the rear end to set up probably for ripping the legs from 2-ish inches rough down to 1-1/2" square. maybe I'm not adventurous enough with my circ saw but, like, balancing? it? on narrow stock? sounds like a bad idea to me. Also also straightness wasn't too bad, once the blade is in you don't really have a lot of play, you just gotta get the first 10 strokes real good. I left healthy margin away from the line to accommodate my lovely sawing skills, which created more work in that I had to clean up the cut faces with a plane.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:25
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Blindeye posted:I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: Didn't know such things existed. Definitely don't have room for a dedicated drill press, but this portable unit fits my use cases perfectly. If it actually works as advertised, that is.
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Feb 8, 2021 19:33
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Blindeye posted:Question for you guys about tools; my shop area is pretty compact so I don't have room for a bandsaw/drill press/other things. I have a table saw and miter saw that can serve me well and a router, but I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: At least he found out what killed the tree 
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Feb 8, 2021 19:42
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Blindeye posted:Question for you guys about tools; my shop area is pretty compact so I don't have room for a bandsaw/drill press/other things. I have a table saw and miter saw that can serve me well and a router, but I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: My dad has an attachment like this for his Dremel and it’s really flimsy and difficult to use accurately. This one seems a little more substantial, though.
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Feb 8, 2021 20:22
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Blindeye posted:Question for you guys about tools; my shop area is pretty compact so I don't have room for a bandsaw/drill press/other things. I have a table saw and miter saw that can serve me well and a router, but I'm curious if any of you have opinions about guides for hand drills like this: I bought that model originally for drilling around 400 t-nut holes for my climbing wall. It was great for that, and it's my go-to whenever I need 90 degree cuts. Obviously the base needs to be supported, which requires some creativity for certain drill jobs. Only downside for me is that my cheap Worx drill doesn't fit the spindle. A Dewalt drill with a 3/8 chuck fit, so it's probably my drill's fault. Baronash fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 20:27
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I've got the Rockler version of the portable drill press and it's pretty sweet. I used it for the dog holes in my workbench. I haven't used it at any angles but I don't know why it would be a problem.
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Feb 8, 2021 20:31
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I'm kind of surprised how little the tree seems to have reacted to that bullet. Around here I'm always hearing folks who say that plinking trees is a great way to farm burls.
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Feb 8, 2021 20:40
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CommonShore posted:The ryoba isn't really the best for any one job except for the job of "you're only allowed to buy one saw." Goddamn its this. Ffs why aren't Katabas more popular? Idgi
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Feb 8, 2021 21:43
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Baronash posted:Around here I'm always hearing folks who say that plinking trees is a great way to farm burls.  This feels like its morally wrong somehow
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Feb 8, 2021 22:30
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Track saw havers: do y'all connect two 55" tracks for full sheet rips or is the long track necessary? It seems like it would be hard to get a long track undamaged in shipping and also it would be a pain in the butt to lug around anywhere
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Feb 8, 2021 22:38
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I sighed as I drew my kataba e: This seems like a huge loving bullet (or a very small tree). Also, it didn’t deform at all? Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 23:02
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I was just telling someone itt never to buy in-cannel gouges, but guess what? Today, about 8yrs after I bought them, I actually used my incannel gouges for like the 3rd time: I very very rarely use these things but I'm a sucker for a) patternmakers tools of any sort and b) big gouges/chisels with boxwood handles. I think I have like 8 of them, and I regret nothing.
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Feb 9, 2021 01:16
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I like big gouges and I can not lie. Jokes aside, those are some nice looking tools. I don't know much about gouges, but given that they're basically curved chisels, I'm guessing the bevel on the inside makes them dive into the wood, making them a bad choice for carving. Or maybe some other reason, but what's the use case for incannels then, because there must be something they do well.
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Feb 9, 2021 01:50
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Super simple frame I put together for an LED light box: It's leftover sapele, just mitered and glued together, no fancy joinery, really simple profiles done on the router table. I've done hardly any woodworking in the last year though, and it felt good to make something again 
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Feb 9, 2021 02:07
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I made a box. Its all very janky pallet wood that needed a lot of love. I wanted to try out my new belt sander and it's really good! I think I'll make another two box tomorrow and maybe some lids?     
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Feb 9, 2021 02:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Super simple frame I put together for an LED light box: Tell me about this light source
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Feb 9, 2021 02:37
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Bloody posted:Tell me about this light source I bought a 5-meter strip of multi-color LED tape off of Amazon for $15, and a 12"x12" sheet of white acrylic for $10. Bashed 'em together with the frame et voila: a kind of crappy lightbox. This is what it looks like when it's turned on:  I got it mostly to provide a second light source so my face isn't shadowed during Zoom calls, and it works for that. It doesn't put out a lot of light though, which is why I say it's kind of crappy. Well, that and the fact that you can clearly see the LED positions through my ersatz diffuser. If I'd known that in advance, I might've been more rigorous about how I laid the tape out.
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Feb 9, 2021 03:17
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Hum yeah. I'm looking for something along those lines to rebuild a beer sign that has a good face but the frame and idk light bulb box are beat to poo poo and I need a ~foot square not particularly bright light source. The long led tape is a decent idea
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Feb 9, 2021 03:23
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Just Winging It posted:I like big gouges and I can not lie. Jokes aside, those are some nice looking tools. I don't know much about gouges, but given that they're basically curved chisels, I'm guessing the bevel on the inside makes them dive into the wood, making them a bad choice for carving. Or maybe some other reason, but what's the use case for incannels then, because there must be something they do well. Here is a blog post I found:https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/880 E: Another blog about patternmaking: https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/1106/ My old boss used to buy his mahogany from one of the largest mahogany importers in the country at the time and they used to send truckloads of perfectly straight grained, rift sawn 16/4 and 20/4 Honduran mahogany to Detroit every year because there used to be a mahogany version of every engine block. My lathe is a patternmaker's lathe with a cross-slide like a metal lathe for precisely turning wood patterns, and the tailstock can move across the bed as well to allow for adding draft. I see old patternmakers jointers for sale occasionally that can angle the tables/fence ever so slightly to add draft and taper to stuff too. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Feb 9, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 03:36
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GEMorris posted:Goddamn its this. I don’t know. I really like mine when I’m cutting joinery. So much more than my western tenon saw. It’s really easy to be precise with it.
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Feb 9, 2021 04:53
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Rufio posted:Track saw havers: do y'all connect two 55" tracks for full sheet rips or is the long track necessary? I connect up a couple of tracks and it sucks, there's a little ridge between the 2 regardless of what I do and it's always a problem because I make full sheet rips pretty infrequently and always forget about it. Low frequency of needing to do it is also the reason I haven't dropped the hundreds of dollars on a long track.
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Feb 9, 2021 10:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It's actually sort of the opposite re: the bevels-they don't really dive into the wood, but they are terrible for carving yes. I'd guess the main uses were for cutting fillets (the slightly rounded bit on the inside corner of a casting/pattern)? Patterns also have to have a slight taper built into them so they can be removed from the mold, and I'd guess it's easier to keep that consistent with a long, straight back chisel than an out-cannel tool where the tool would have to ride on just a small bevel to stay consistent. A longer tool gives more control over the angle. They are good for paring too on end grain or across grain, so maybe for adding little channels for metal to flow through? I have 1 or two cranked/gooseneck ones too I think for working away from an edge. Ah, now I know. That's some cool rear end historical background information.
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Feb 9, 2021 13:41
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Bloody posted:Hum yeah. I'm looking for something along those lines to rebuild a beer sign that has a good face but the frame and idk light bulb box are beat to poo poo and I need a ~foot square not particularly bright light source. The long led tape is a decent idea Get a brighter White only LED strip and just run them along the frame edges facing inward. You want the light pointed in the box not up against the sign face.
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Feb 9, 2021 15:52
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Three more boxes done! Heres the whole family picture, before they go out to customers Two are walnut with maple splines, third is walnut with bloodwood splines.
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Feb 9, 2021 17:38
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I've got 2 of the bookshelves in and finished now. After like 2 months of work its actually a bit people will see! And the door mounted one still opens! 4 full size units and 6 small upper units to do, then all the doors and the trim and we're done. Sounds easy. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 9, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 20:54
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I got myself a pocket hole jig and now I feel like I can build anything I want, just as long as I want janky and unstable. The first thing I've made is this "dog perch" out of an old closet shelf that came with the house:   It was really wobbly, so I put some scrap 1x2 pieces on the back corners. With the pocket-hole jig, of course, because it's the greatest thing I've ever added to my workshop. They helped a lot, and the carpet is covering them up now, so nobody can see my patch. Not that they'd look beyond the unfinished edges, but I don't have the stain and varnish the old homeowner used in 1945. The dog actually uses it, so I'm calling it a success. She jumps up on this instead of the couch, and she likes it so much that she takes naps and now eats treats and meals underneath it. Making a (janky) piece of furniture that a living mammal actually wants to use is a huge accomplishment for me. Thanks for your pat on the back. What I'm wondering is, what would y'all recommend as simple improvements I could make to this? I'm not going to make them, but I want to understand what a "next level" janky dog perch would have looked like. I'm guessing a full-width 1x2 on the front and back would help quite a bit with lateral stability, and would look nice as well. Obviously using the same kind of wood would be important, and having a consistent finish, or failing that, being painted. Is there anything else I should consider doing on my next janky dog perch?
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Feb 10, 2021 00:03
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Super Waffle posted:Three more boxes done! Heres the whole family picture, before they go out to customers I am wondering about the splines on the lower edge of the lid. Is the wood of the spline exposed, or is there a superthin sliver of the primary wood covering them? I can't quite tell by looking at the pics.
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Feb 10, 2021 00:05
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There were some photos of the pantorouter upthread, and I was curious if anyone here had tried Matthias' bandsaw plans? Originally planned to make the 14 inch one as a combo bandsaw/sawmill, but now I'm thinking of simplifying construction and just using it as a sawmill. We'll see if my dreams of cheap, endless maple and ash come true.  The frame is over 7 inches thick, so hopefully even with lovely whitewood it'll be plenty stout for the blade tensioner and whatever motor/engine I end up running it with. Baronash fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 00:18
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cruft posted:What I'm wondering is, what would y'all recommend as simple improvements I could make to this? I'm not going to make them, but I want to understand what a "next level" janky dog perch would have looked like. I'm guessing a full-width 1x2 on the front and back would help quite a bit with lateral stability, and would look nice as well. Obviously using the same kind of wood would be important, and having a consistent finish, or failing that, being painted. Is there anything else I should consider doing on my next janky dog perch? You've basically got it figured out for when you want to upgrade it. That full width board will help with the lean and twist, and you could put one on the front too. Other than that, it's only cosmetic preferences for things, and not anything that would make it 'better'. I'd stick with using pocket screws for it too, because they'll be hidden, and it'll still unfortunately outlast your janky dog. ... or was it the perch that's janky?
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Feb 10, 2021 00:20
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Jhet posted:You've basically got it figured out for when you want to upgrade it. That full width board will help with the lean and twist, and you could put one on the front too. Other than that, it's only cosmetic preferences for things, and not anything that would make it 'better'. I'd stick with using pocket screws for it too, because they'll be hidden, and it'll still unfortunately outlast your janky dog. haha BOTH Cool, thanks!
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Feb 10, 2021 00:28
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