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is motorcycling awesome
yes
hell yes
hell loving yes
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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Yeah, actually why gently caress around with helmet-mounted when you can just go bike-mounted?

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Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

Sagebrush posted:

Listening to music while riding really jazzes me up, but I don't generally do it because I will start doing poo poo like kicking down a gear and opening the throttle at the same moment the beat drops and it's loving AWESOME and very stupid.

I find music cuts down on the fatigue for me on longer rides, but this can be a legit phenomenon with the wrong tracks

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I haven't touched my CB300R since I documented the noise it was making + fall/winter rolled through. I have the service manual, but I've never done any valve clearance work and it being covid times has made the whole "learn from a buddy" thing go out the window. I just did a search for CB300R + valve noise and it came up with a thread on ADVRider where someone said it took them 9 hours to get to the cams and that it was as fiddly as dealing with a VFR.

How hard am I going to get wallet inspected by bringing it to the local Honda Powersports dealer and asking them to take a look at it, do the valve clearance (that used to be required at 600 miles but isn't anymore due to ??? despite being the same motor), and change out the tires so I'm ready to hop back into it?

e: oh the owners manual says no valve clearance check until 16000 miles, which seems ambitious

i guess i'll tear into it and see what i find

Phone fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Feb 5, 2021

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

16,000 mi on a modern lightly tuned 300 sounds right to me. Checking your valve clearances all the time is an artifact from old engines with lovely tolerances and especially old engines without stellite valve seats.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib

Phone posted:

How hard am I going to get wallet inspected by bringing it to the local Honda Powersports dealer and asking them to take a look at it, do the valve clearance (that used to be required at 600 miles but isn't anymore due to ??? despite being the same motor), and change out the tires so I'm ready to hop back into it?


I'd budget $1000 for this, if you get lucky. I'm of the "groom and stable your own horse" mindset, and do everything but tires. Seems you don't need to do it, but valve checks aren't a big deal after your first time. I did it 3 or 4 times on the EX250 I had, and everything was tiny and hard to get at.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phone posted:

I haven't touched my CB300R since I documented the noise it was making + fall/winter rolled through. I have the service manual, but I've never done any valve clearance work and it being covid times has made the whole "learn from a buddy" thing go out the window. I just did a search for CB300R + valve noise and it came up with a thread on ADVRider where someone said it took them 9 hours to get to the cams and that it was as fiddly as dealing with a VFR.

How hard am I going to get wallet inspected by bringing it to the local Honda Powersports dealer and asking them to take a look at it, do the valve clearance (that used to be required at 600 miles but isn't anymore due to ??? despite being the same motor), and change out the tires so I'm ready to hop back into it?

e: oh the owners manual says no valve clearance check until 16000 miles, which seems ambitious

i guess i'll tear into it and see what i find

Yeah nah that person is an idiot, short of an air cooled dirt bike or GN250 (but I repeat myself) you have like the simplest possible scenario for valve checking. It is super simple, the hardest part is just making sure all your bodywork screws and little fiddly brackets and things all go back in the right place.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I just really don't want to troubleshoot, my patience for this stuff is beyond zero. I can't be assed to fiddle with something for 30 minutes in the next room over.

I guess a better question would be: what tires should I look at?

e: like just thumbing through the service manual, the few instances of "Go to 10-6 for cylinder head removal, Go to 3-8 for spark plug removal" choose your own adventure is to the point where I don't want to gently caress with it. I've been waist deep in Oracle documentation for the last 2 weeks trying to figure something out, and the prospect of doing similar poo poo but for fun! is a complete no go for me right now.

Phone fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Feb 5, 2021

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It...I.... Someone else handle this please

Like ok: don't read the manual until you have the cam cover off. Nothing in the manual will help you until you get to that point or you'll spend several days chasing Honda special hose remover tool 7482993. Just take the tank and associated bodywork off, then take out everything that stops you removing the cam cover, then remove the cam cover and spark plug and ONLY then open the manual and look at the clearances.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 5, 2021

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Phone posted:

I just really don't want to troubleshoot, my patience for this stuff is beyond zero. I can't be assed to fiddle with something for 30 minutes in the next room over.

So go to a mechanic. Your choices are spend more time and less money, or more money and less time. it is perfectly acceptable to say "I don't want to deal with this poo poo so I'm going to pay someone else to do it for me."

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

So go to a mechanic. Your choices are spend more time and less money, or more money and less time.

*sigh* I guess you're right mum

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Like it's perfectly possible for me to mount tires myself, I've done it before, but I don't have a tire machine so it loving sucks and I'm willing to pay 50 bucks to the shop to not deal with that.

Other little bits of maintenance like changing the oil or adjusting the chain or even doing the valves I don't find as infuriating, so I'm happy to spend a couple of hours on a Saturday doing that sort of stuff.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Sorry, just talking it through has helped me a bit; I've become what I used to loathe. It sounds dumb asking for permission on this type of stuff, but I'm desperately trying to avoid a situation where I bought the bike, rode it for a few hundred miles in the first two weeks of ownership and then sell it 3 years later. Anyways, sorry about eating up folks' time on Phone's ADHD Group Therapy; it's much appreciated, but also inappropriate.

ON TOPIC: what tires should I go for?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

The bike came with Dunlop GPR-300 which are IMO totally adequate, but I have no real experience with other tires! I think if you bought any other tire you’d be paying a lot more for no real benefit. I just bought a replacement set I am attempting to install today.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
I'm of the opinion that the Michelin PR3 are the best tires ever created. They don't exist so see if the 4 or whatever current version is ok and fits your bike.

Also, just take it to a mechanic if you want to pay the money to get it sorted. It sounds like it's worth it to you. I've just dumped way too much money into mechanics that I do all my own work. Let's be clear though, I LOATH working on bikes and cars.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



Using a proper lift to work on my bike was a game changer, but I don't want to buy one just to have it take up room in my garage. I do a lot of work myself, but I can understand being tired of lying on the ground, your back is hurting because everything is hard to reach and you're old (or maybe that's just me), etc. If I had a larger garage I'd buy a cheap HF one in a second.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phone posted:

Sorry, just talking it through has helped me a bit; I've become what I used to loathe. It sounds dumb asking for permission on this type of stuff, but I'm desperately trying to avoid a situation where I bought the bike, rode it for a few hundred miles in the first two weeks of ownership and then sell it 3 years later. Anyways, sorry about eating up folks' time on Phone's ADHD Group Therapy; it's much appreciated, but also inappropriate.

ON TOPIC: what tires should I go for?

Pirelli sport demons are so much better than every other small bike tire it feels like cheating.

PR3 as mentioned are very good 'normal' tyres but imo built for larger heavier bikes and feel too blunt and numb for small stuff but ymmv.

Toe Rag posted:

The bike came with Dunlop GPR-300 which are IMO totally adequate, but I have no real experience with other tires! I think if you bought any other tire you’d be paying a lot more for no real benefit. I just bought a replacement set I am attempting to install today.

Not remotely true, tyres make a humongous difference to feel and handling, all of those small bikes come with awful tyres that have big name branding but small thai sweatshop construction and you can realise an immediate and noticeable improvement just by swapping to something decent.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Phone, absolutely everyone with a vehicle plays the game of "do this myself or take it to the shop"

Lots of people decide that their time is not worth investing into developing maintenance skills, so they take it to the shop for everything including oil changes and tire rotation. A few people develop the skills and acquire the equipment to look after their vehicle entirely on their own, and more power to 'em.

Some people learn how to do their own basic wrenching, but they'll still take it in for bigger jobs or things requiring special tools. This is where I find myself, cause a. I don't have a garage, and b. sometimes I just can't be arsed with the frustration of banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what specifically needs fixing, and the shop rate still comes out cheaper than a time investment of an entire fuckin' weekend of flailing in my dad's garage. And people in this group are all different in what they are willing to tackle. I'll do valve adjustments on my Rex any day cause it's dead simple, but if I had a VFR, I believe that would be a somebody else problem.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

Not remotely true, tyres make a humongous difference to feel and handling, all of those small bikes come with awful tyres that have big name branding but small thai sweatshop construction and you can realise an immediate and noticeable improvement just by swapping to something decent.

Right I understand that. I wasn’t trying to say the tires don’t matter, just I would be surprised if there is an appreciable difference between $160 and $350 tires to a beginner on a light and low powered bike. I’ve personally never had issues with grip or vagueness and whatnot, but I could also be totally wrong. :shobon:

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Tires make a huge difference on light stuff in my experience (miatas), and usually it's the OEM tire that costs a bunch versus a super sticky set of tires.

Looks like the Sport Demons aren't available in 150/60R17. :(

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
my favorite 150s on the drz were diablo rosso ii's but they dont last that long. i'd go through rears every 3k, but that's with lots of wheelies so ymmv

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

While we're talking tires: I want to replace the badly squared OEM Battleaxes on the MT-07 in the spring. What's the go-to sport-touring tires these days? Road 5s?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I've used both Road 5 and Pirelli Angel GT II. Of those two I'd go for the pirellis any day. You'll drop some milage on the rear, but the Pirellis felt more easy to turn and kept that longer than the road 5. Both have excellent wet and cold grip. I did 14000km /8700miles on the road 5, 11500km/7150 miles on the gt ii. I'd say both had 1k miles left at least when I swapped them, I did pre-emptive swaps before long holidays. This was on a yamaha fz6n in Norway, so general cold climate with semi rough pavement.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe Rag posted:

Right I understand that. I wasn’t trying to say the tires don’t matter, just I would be surprised if there is an appreciable difference between $160 and $350 tires to a beginner on a light and low powered bike. I’ve personally never had issues with grip or vagueness and whatnot, but I could also be totally wrong. :shobon:

The difference is noticeable and huge and you don't need to be anywhere near the traction limit to feel it. Usually cheap poo poo tyres have a very square, bathtub shaped profile that gives reluctant steering and a tendency to resist leaning. Better tyres for small bikes tend to be a lot more triangular in profile to take maximum advantage of the bike's agility whilst giving a more stable feel at high lean - hence my endless stanning for pirelli, the most triangular tyres.

Supradog posted:

I've used both Road 5 and Pirelli Angel GT II. Of those two I'd go for the pirellis any day. You'll drop some milage on the rear, but the Pirellis felt more easy to turn and kept that longer than the road 5. Both have excellent wet and cold grip. I did 14000km /8700miles on the road 5, 11500km/7150 miles on the gt ii. I'd say both had 1k miles left at least when I swapped them, I did pre-emptive swaps before long holidays. This was on a yamaha fz6n in Norway, so general cold climate with semi rough pavement.

I'm with this guy. PR3/4/5 are the last word in longevity but they feel miserable, angels last slightly less but the grip and leaning sensation are much much better.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

The difference is noticeable and huge and you don't need to be anywhere near the traction limit to feel it. Usually cheap poo poo tyres have a very square, bathtub shaped profile that gives reluctant steering and a tendency to resist leaning. Better tyres for small bikes tend to be a lot more triangular in profile to take maximum advantage of the bike's agility whilst giving a more stable feel at high lean - hence my endless stanning for pirelli, the most triangular tyres.

I intend this as a question rather than an arguement, but aren't Dunlops fairly pointy/triangular tires as well? That is my understanding. These are the ones I just installed. I'm not sure if you can really tell from a picture, but they don't look bathtub shaped to me. Have you ridden those tires (GPR-300) and thought they were poo poo? One of the main reasons I ordered a second set, besides not having any fault with them, is because I wanted to keep the handling of the bike mostly the same since I am still learning. That and most of the tires on Revzilla in 110/70 and 150/60 are way more expensive.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I haven't personally ridden that particular model, and they look ok visually for what it's worth, but all the big name brands have 'cheap' tyres that don't share the character or technology of the big stuff. I honestly don't know enough about dunlops in general to comment on those specifically, every cbr250/300 I've seen has come with irc's.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Any opinions on the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III's?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Very good, but It depends how often you wanna change tires really.

Its the even grippier but faster wearing cousin of the angel Gt 2. I only got 4300 miles out of the rear before it hit the wear bars.
The grip is excellent in both wet and dry. I only ran it may to august though, as then it was spent, so I've only tried it in warm weather.
It felt grippier and more planted but still even more turn happy than the angels.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phone posted:

Any opinions on the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III's?

Excellent but short-lived tyre. Probably the best street sport tyre out there, though the bridgestone s22 is also excellent.

Unless you're on an actual sportbike or intend to do track days, just get angel GT's they are more than enough tyre for street bikes ridden by mortals and are much much sportier than every other brand's ST model.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
S22 and Angel GTs are not available in 150/60-17. :(

What's the rule of thumb on going wider than OE spec on motorcycles?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

What kind of bike is this? Either a 150/70 or a 160/60 would probably work fine.

Greg12
Apr 22, 2020
tkc80s

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Phone posted:

S22 and Angel GTs are not available in 150/60-17. :(

What's the rule of thumb on going wider than OE spec on motorcycles?

150 seems already oversized on a CB300. Is that stock? I’m not familiar with the bike, but I would expect anything wider than 110/140 on that bike would make it turn like poo poo.

Edit: I guess 110/150 is stock. Interesting, Ninja 300 is 110/140.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Feb 11, 2021

jiffypop45
Dec 30, 2011

Phone posted:

Any opinions on the Pirelli Diablo Rosso III's?

I have a made in China set on my duc (oem). No complaints at all. Albeit I would say I've done absolutely nothing that felt like I was pushing them other than a really broken interstate on ramp that gave me a bit of a scare. So if your roads are absolutely garbage maybe don't get them but that could easily be explained by bad technique vs the tire.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

jiffypop45 posted:

I have a made in China set on my duc (oem). No complaints at all. Albeit I would say I've done absolutely nothing that felt like I was pushing them other than a really broken interstate on ramp that gave me a bit of a scare. So if your roads are absolutely garbage maybe don't get them but that could easily be explained by bad technique vs the tire.

Losing traction from bumps isn't (usually) a tyre thing, it's a chassis/suspension/skill thing. Most of the time if the bike is jumping and dancing around but you haven't crashed, you won't crash and can just push through and trust the bike to do it's job. Crashing from lack of traction usually feels like teleporting to the ground with no warning.

A Banana
Jun 11, 2013
Done my Pre-Learners course :australia: got my Ls, looking at sorting out gear and a bike. I've found a 2013 honda cbr500r with abs in good nick for a good price.
Is this reasonable to go for or is the extra power over the 300 significant enough that it's going to get me into more trouble?
Like, I definitely don't need a 500, most of my riding is going to be sub 60kph, just don't want to prematurely disregard it if the bike is otherwise a fantastic option

A Banana fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Feb 13, 2021

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Nah you're fine.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Hell yeah youre about to have so much fun!

The two cylinder 500s are really quite sedate.

Get a good helmet! I went through two before I ended up with the one I should have started with, it would have been cheaper to just buy the thing from the beginning. Not sure how it is for you with the pandemic, although I think countries like :australia: who had an actual response plan that wasn't just "lets OPEN ER UP :911:" seem to be in much better shape than lolmerica, but see if you can find a local shop that will help you try on gear. They'll know what to look for, being new like I was I had no idea what a good helmet fit was supposed to feel like.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




re: helmets - get one that's quite a bit too tight. Otherwise you'll be replacing it in one year because after a year, it gets a lot looser.
For instance, if it pushes onto your forehead just a bit annoyingly, it will generally be perfect after a few dozen hours of riding. I bought an XL HJC is-17 helmet first going by the advice of the shop clerk, but 1,5 years later (when finances allowed) i still had to buy a new one in size L.
I did try the size L in the shop too, but back then i thought it was too tight. Right now, it's okay, but i'd still rather have it a bit tighter.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Feb 13, 2021

Glass of Milk
Dec 22, 2004
to forgive is divine

A Banana posted:

Done my Pre-Learners course :australia: got my Ls, looking at sorting out gear and a bike. I've found a 2013 honda cbr500r with abs in good nick for a good price.
Is this reasonable to go for or is the extra power over the 300 significant enough that it's going to get me into more trouble?
Like, I definitely don't need a 500, most of my riding is going to be sub 60kph, just don't want to prematurely disregard it if the bike is otherwise a fantastic option

I think you'll enjoy it more than a single-cylinder- when I rode my friend's 500 and compared it to my 250, I really liked that there was more power on tap and that the whole ride was smoother. The 300 is nice because it's so narrow, but the 500 isn't really that much bigger.

Glass of Milk fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Mar 1, 2021

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Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

LimaBiker posted:

re: helmets - get one that's quite a bit too tight. Otherwise you'll be replacing it in one year because after a year, it gets a lot looser.
For instance, if it pushes onto your forehead just a bit annoyingly, it will generally be perfect after a few dozen hours of riding. I bought an XL HJC is-17 helmet first going by the advice of the shop clerk, but 1,5 years later (when finances allowed) i still had to buy a new one in size L.
I did try the size L in the shop too, but back then i thought it was too tight. Right now, it's okay, but i'd still rather have it a bit tighter.

I'm sorry, but this is the dumbest loving advice.

I have the same helmet, an IS-17 and I bought a XXL because it fit right perfect out of the box and it still does a year later. An XL would be far too small.

Buy the helmet that fits right, right now. You don't want to be riding around in pain with a smaller helmet because then you won't ride.

Also some helmets fit differently, some are for round heads, some for oval heads, some in between. Try on loads of helmets.

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