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GOD IS BED posted:The sticker does mean February 2021 because thats what the battery company cares about, when it was sent to the store. The battery was made either a week or two ago, or its an older battery (no more than 6 months) that tested good and had a new label put on it. Source: I work at a battery store. Good to know, thanks!
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Feb 8, 2021 20:56
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Outrail posted:Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet. I've had them last 10 years, I've had them last one start from the time I put them in. I've had a brand new battery that could barely turn on the interior lights. Extreme climates kill them a lot faster than moderate climates. Having them in an alternate location (such as by the spare tire, in the trunk, under a seat/floor somewhere, etc) will make them last a LOT longer, as they're not exposed to the heat of the engine (talking about a factory location, not a relocation kit - both of my Saturns had them next to the spare tire, under the trunk floor... the original on my first made it a bit past 10 years). Once the car sounds like it's cranking slow, if it hasn't been sitting more than, say, a week, it's time to consider changing it - your alternator is going to be hurting trying to charge it at that point, and if you keep pushing a weak battery, you're going to wind up replacing both the alternator and battery. I average 3-5 years with underhood batteries, in Texas (hot).
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Feb 8, 2021 21:11
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Boo, time to go shopping, I guess, While I'm blowing cash, can anyone recommend an inexpensive dashcam? Zero effort plug and play if possible. Just in case I get in an accident to prove what happened, or if something stupid happens and I want to post it on the internet.
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Feb 9, 2021 01:43
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Stupid request here. I was scrolling down facebook feed today and saw a pic from years ago posted by an old Protege guy I still sort of keep in touch with. A bunch of other old local (to me) Protege OGs commented and I got to looking at a ton of old of poo poo. So, I got to thinking about a bunch of old Protege poo poo, and something that I remembered was the Club Protege JDM container fiasco. I know that the topic came up here once about a decade or so ago, and someone posted a link to a website that had been put up at the time in which a bunch of "what really happened" type info was posted. Screen shots of email exchanges, chat logs and some other relevant at the time info. Does anyone still have the link for that? Or know if the site is still alive? I know there are a few Club Protege guys on here so maybe one of y'all has it bookmarked somewhere. The guy who started CP died several years ago anyway so I'm not trying to start poo poo, I just want to check the site out and see if hat I remember jibes with how I recall things playing out. Not trying to rake the muck or anything like that. My google skills are lacking as hell because I can't find anything on the topic.
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Feb 9, 2021 04:11
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He died? I didn't know that. I probably have some screenshots. I knew him. He messaged me before things blew up but I didn't respond before he went dark. I think he just got in way over his head, and instead of admitting that, kind of doubled down or panicked.
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Feb 9, 2021 04:22
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Dumb question time, directed here by BYOB friends: I have a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 1.6L EcoBoost with 109406 miles. Just had it in the shop for the coolant leak issue (they're sieves, the 1.6L EB, from what I've been able to find out online). Had since 2017, regular maintenance with receipts for the lifetime of the vehicle. Started throwing the low coolant code a couple of weeks ago, checked coolant and looked fine. Light went away after 24 hours, kept checking coolant, level was good. A week ago, car stalled in parking lot after sitting for 8 hours immobile at work. Overheated. Coolant completely drained after full in the morning. Garage next door, so limped it over. Garage has car for three days, replaced hoses, pressure tested engine for leaks and supposedly nothing leaking from block or water pump, changed oil and filter (valvoline does my oil changes and hadn't changed filter at last service.) No water in oil. Car is repaired, picked up Saturday. Drove home 30 miles, didn't drive again until Monday morning. No lights Monday morning. Monday afternoon, car throws low coolant light. Check coolant, below minimum. Car makes it home after topping with 50/50 mix. Garage says they can't see it until tomorrow. Meanwhile I'm 30 miles from garage. I'm looking at other cars because it's an ice day anyway and I'm panicking. I don't know what it is but it sounds like a slow leak from the block, could be water pump, head/gasket, crack? Dunno. Stressed and just want a working car, I'm "essential" and know next to nothing about cars in the first place and my job is already made at me that I couldn't drive 30 miles in ice with a broken car. Main question: what do I ask the mechanic when I go in? Is it better to play dumb? Should I give up, dig a hole, and bury myself in it for buying the worst model year of the worst car?
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Feb 9, 2021 17:22
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Teddy Thunders posted:
It's not clear what you gain by "playing dumb". Absolutely do not internet diagnose this thing with whatever "slow leak from the block" you think it has. But being honest and up front about the history of your particular vehicle and the symptoms you are experiencing is providing the information to the mechanic to do half of the job you are paying them for: diagnostics. It's not clear from your post, but you are bringing this back to the same garage right? Tell them "look, you missed something. It's doing the same thing again."
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Feb 9, 2021 17:49
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Motronic posted:It's not clear what you gain by "playing dumb". Absolutely do not internet diagnose this thing with whatever "slow leak from the block" you think it has. But being honest and up front about the history of your particular vehicle and the symptoms you are experiencing is providing the information to the mechanic to do half of the job you are paying them for: diagnostics. Yeah, I'm getting it towed in tomorrow for the same thing and telling them "it's still doing this poo poo." I just know that I was treated with suspicion for saying "it smells like burning antifreeze, it's making a knock and shudder right before it stalls, the reservoir was full then low, this is the timeline, help."
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Feb 9, 2021 19:13
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What forums/sites should I look at for 4runner info? Probably 3rd or 4th gen, I haven't decided what I want to spend yet. e: also where should I be watching: craigslist, autotrader, any others? This is in the sf bay area, ca. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 01:06
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ryanrs posted:e: also where should I be watching: craigslist, autotrader, any others? This is in the sf bay area, ca. Sadly, facebook marketplace is where almost all the action is now.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:24
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God loving drat it. I've managed to avoid facebook until now.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:26
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Speaking of 4Runners - does Toyota have any kind of partner pricing? For instance, Ford has x-plan, which gives you access to a slightly above invoice no-haggle price.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:30
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ryanrs posted:What forums/sites should I look at for 4runner info? https://www.4runners.com/ is probably good based on their affiliated Tacoma forum. Full of Chuds and right-wing fuckwits but I try to ignore the general chat.
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Feb 10, 2021 02:12
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Charles posted:He died? I didn't know that. I probably have some screenshots. I knew him. He messaged me before things blew up but I didn't respond before he went dark. I think he just got in way over his head, and instead of admitting that, kind of doubled down or panicked. Yeah, same here, I think he just wanted to help out the community and got in over his head and poo poo just went downhill from there. ryanrs posted:What forums/sites should I look at for 4runner info? Toyota Nation is out there. *seems* like a not horrible place, but my experience there is admittedly limited.
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Feb 10, 2021 02:15
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arbybaconator posted:Speaking of 4Runners - does Toyota have any kind of partner pricing? For instance, Ford has x-plan, which gives you access to a slightly above invoice no-haggle price. every OEM in the world has various partner pricing levels
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Feb 10, 2021 14:52
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2005 Toyota Matrix, base model 1ZZ-FE (.... think of it as a Corolla wagon). Finally throwing lean codes and running even worse than usual, struggles to idle when cold, once warm it has a high idle (wavering from ~900-2000 RPM). What do I need to know about replacing the intake manifold gasket? Youtube and Chilton's make it look stupid easy. And what are the chances that the plastic intake manifold has cracked vs the gasket letting go? (it's always been a TX car, so... high temps) Advance Auto, over the phone anyway, is insisting it has a separate upper and lower intake manifold gasket, but their website (and over the phone) gave me a part number for a Ford 351W. I think I found the right part number on Fel Pro's website (they list two for the 1.8, but the 1ZZ and 2ZZ are both the same displacement - looked up the OEM part number, compared pics, going with the one that looks right). Should I go ahead and do the throttle body gasket too, or should I just leave well enough alone, since it's DBW and the TB looks brand new? Waved propane around the intake to head mating surface and got a rather...  surge in RPM (wound up to nearly 4k). The fuel trims are beyond hilarious right now too (pegged at idle)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 18:16
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I've bought a few parts from this place: https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/ I'm sure there is something similar down on your side of the border. Since this is an actual Toyota place you're dealing with, it'll ask you for the VIN so *theoretically* you should get the right part if the person picking it has a reasonable amount of brain cells. It might not be as cheap as Auto zone or wherever, but it'll be OEM quality anyway. Maybe a few buck cheaper too. They also have exploded parts diagrams which might solve the issue of whether or not you have a two piece manifold.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:58
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I have a stupid tire question. I have a 99 ranger, rwd that is not my daily driver. The current tires are uniroyal all seasons (I can find out the actual name if it matters). Right now there’s still easily a 1/4” worth of tread left before the wear marks. The tires are at least a couple of years and over 10k miles old, they came with the truck. It snowed here over the weekend and although I shoveled most of it away there was still a couple small piles under the snow. Now I know that there’s no weight in the bed, but i couldn’t get enough traction to back it out of the spot this morning when I was going to work. So my question is: do I just have lovely tires or does the truck just suck rear end if there’s nothing in the bed to push down on the drive wheels? I know for a fact that my brz would have easily made it over the piles, even in my all seasons because it’s done exactly that already this year.
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Feb 10, 2021 22:05
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AFewBricksShy posted:I have a stupid tire question. Check the date code on the tires. Regardless of how much tread is left on them they are probably over 5 years old and hard as hockey pucks. That combined with no weight in the bed means you're not going anywhere. https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/tire-date-code#:~:text=The%20last%20four%20digits%20of,week%20of%20the%20year%202000.
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Feb 10, 2021 22:33
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wesleywillis posted:I've bought a few parts from this place: https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/ Not in Canada, but a lot of US dealers have similar sites. Most don't go back this far, though. I have the right gaskets, AFAIK (well, the TB gasket is on order, should have it tomorrow, but I have the IM gasket), more looking for any surprises I may run into. There's no way an intake manifold gasket is half a dozen nuts/bolts.. I'm used to a dozen+ fiddly/hidden fasteners.
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Feb 10, 2021 22:51
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Motronic posted:Check the date code on the tires. Regardless of how much tread is left on them they are probably over 5 years old and hard as hockey pucks. That combined with no weight in the bed means you're not going anywhere. So today I learned a few things One how to check the date on tires Two that tires can be too old even if they have tread. (I put decent mileage on my cars every year, I’ve never had a set last more than 3 years) Three that I have to get new tires because they are 10 years old. https://youtu.be/avtK9Bz0sPg Thanks
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Feb 10, 2021 23:15
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I went to a Toyota dealer and tried sleeping in the back of one of their 4runners. I'm 6' 0". It's possible to sleep back there, I think, but it's not great. Even if I unbolt one of the rear seats, slide the front passenger seat forward, and build a box to fill the gap, it'll still be a little narrow. I guess I could go all out and saw the center console in half. I'm spoiled by the Sienna, which is legit enjoyable to sleep in. Right now I'm imagining spending $20k on a 10 year old 4runner, then lying awake at night, cramped and pining for my old minivan. I'm especially not looking forward to spending a day stuck inside during a bad storm (I camp a lot in the fall and winter, because of hunting). I guess this is why people buy tents, or even those ridiculously expensive roof tents. Maybe since it's a 4runner I should try rolling down the rear window and dangling my feet out.
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Feb 10, 2021 23:46
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Are you not looking in to half-ton based vans for some reason? When I think of offroad van my mind immediately goes to like, E-series or the Express.
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Feb 10, 2021 23:50
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I looked at the Sequoia, which is pretty van-like in that it's a huge box on wheels. You're right though, I should look at commercial cargo vans, too. They are all really big compared to the Sienna, though. And heavy. Ugh, it's going to suck winching one of those heavy fuckers out of a ditch with arm power. I wonder how much my priorities are being colored by my minivan experience? I feel like the minivan is (almost) capable enough offroad, big enough to be comfortable, and small enough to get around tight forest two-track. But maybe I only think that because those are the only places I ever took the minivan? Maybe if had started out in a Jeep, I'd be prioritizing getting up steep trails, and sleeping in the vehicle wouldn't even be a consideration?
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Feb 11, 2021 00:09
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STR posted:2005 Toyota Matrix, base model 1ZZ-FE (.... think of it as a Corolla wagon). Dang, that is confusing. Hell they (rock auto) lists different fel-pro for drum and disc brakes. Never seen that before, an intake gasket based on what brakes you have. One says upper and lower for disc brakes. As for the TB, those have loctite on them? Looking at the dorman intake manifold picture sure looks like it.
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Feb 11, 2021 00:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dang, that is confusing. Hell they (rock auto) lists different fel-pro for drum and disc brakes. Never seen that before, an intake gasket based on what brakes you have. One says upper and lower for disc brakes.
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Feb 11, 2021 00:32
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dang, that is confusing. Hell they (rock auto) lists different fel-pro for drum and disc brakes. Never seen that before, an intake gasket based on what brakes you have. One says upper and lower for disc brakes. The XRS got 4 wheel disc - and the 2ZZ. The rest got the 1ZZ. Clear as mud, right? The tl;dr is you only get the good brakes with the slightly more funner engine. And Rockauto is the only place that seems to actually split it that way - everyone else just says "yup, it has a 1.8, all of this poo poo fits just fine". Or you can be Advance Auto and list a Ford 351W gasket set as fitting.  No clue if the TB has loctite. I'm hesitant to remove the coolant lines from the TB just because of how old the car is - I'm afraid removing them and/or clamping them will probably cause them to split, and the molded ones are likely NLA. A friend strongly recommended I remove the TB from the IM and leave it connected to the coolant lines. I'm not opposed to looping the coolant lines that normally go to the TB - it really doesn't get cold enough here for icing in the intake to be an issue. It's the first year they had DBW on this engine though, so I'm not even sure how the cold idle is handled. I'd assume it's 100% ECU, but having coolant lines going to the TB throws me unless it's strictly to prevent icing in super cold weather. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 00:55
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ryanrs posted:I looked at the Sequoia, which is pretty van-like in that it's a huge box on wheels. You're right though, I should look at commercial cargo vans, too. You can actually get 4x4 converted full size vans too. Look into quigley, they basically put f350 front end and tcase/trans parts under an e350 using custom brackets and driveshafts and such. They cost real money though. Honestly I normally just hang a hammock from my Jeep's roof rack and a tree when I do stuff like this.
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Feb 11, 2021 01:49
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ryanrs posted:I looked at the Sequoia, which is pretty van-like in that it's a huge box on wheels. You're right though, I should look at commercial cargo vans, too. I had an AWD astrovan and it was the tits u til the computer died and it fell apart. After having a pathfinder and now a Tacoma I don't miss it. I think you'd be fine with an xterra/4runner or something like that. Or go hard and get yourself a delica. Honestly that might tick all your boxes.
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Feb 11, 2021 02:13
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It's hard to register the Delica in CA I believe, which IIRC is where the OP is.
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Feb 11, 2021 02:16
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Charles posted:It's hard to register the Delica in CA I believe, which IIRC is where the OP is. That is really dumb. Slap a Chevy badge on a delica.
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Feb 11, 2021 02:24
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AFewBricksShy posted:I have a stupid tire question. They also DO suck in he snow with no weight in the back. My work had the Mazda version about the same year and it was awful in the snow. Even with weight in the back it still wasn't that good.
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Feb 11, 2021 02:27
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im thinking of upgrading the injectors on a rex/regina equipped motor from stock (rated at 18lbs/hr & 14.2ohm) to a more modern spray pattern and my 3 choices are pink @ 22.5 lbs/hr & 12ohm grey @ 19 lbs/hr & 12ohm yellow @ 19 lbs/hr @ 15.95ohm theyre currently a blue/teal color, but will the small difference in resistance matter? im partial to pink
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Feb 11, 2021 03:49
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STR you probably saw this one, but the SMA video makes it look pretty dang straightforward. I remember watching this in case I ever need to do mine in the beaterVibe, but it hasn't shown any symptoms yet, barely over 100K on my 05. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTh3SRYhDyA
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Feb 11, 2021 04:42
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Outrail posted:I had an AWD astrovan and it was the tits.
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Feb 11, 2021 04:58
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Bah, to hell with all this new car poo poo. 4runners, Sequoias, pickup trucks and cargo vans all suck. gently caress buying a new car, gently caress buying a $$$ used car, and gently caress paying a mechanic many thousands to fix my 20 year old POS minivan. I'm going to try fixing the Sienna myself in my apartment complex parking lot. I'm pretty sure nobody will say poo poo unless it takes me all week (and even then prob not). There are youtube videos; how hard can it be? I have a lot of tools. Worst case, I gently caress up the van so badly it needs to be towed to the scrap yard, rather than driving there under its own power.
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Feb 11, 2021 05:46
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If it actually needs a trans (I can't remember what it needs at this point) you are in for some poo poo because iirc those come out the bottom after pulling the subframe off.
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Feb 11, 2021 06:02
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No it's just shocks, some engine mounts, maybe lower control arm bushings. The engine and other important parts run fine, I just blew up all the rubber stuff. The hardest part will probably be the rear engine mount, since one of the CV shafts passes *through* the mount. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 06:05
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I am bad at cars. Are there things other than the battery or block heater being bad that contribute to not starting in extreme cold? I have a 2010 Pontiac G6 GT with ~70k km that mostly only drives a short 10m work commute (hence the low mileage). It is very weak to the cold, and I would like to find out why so that it can stop being so unreliable during cold snaps. As an example, earlier this winter, after having been mild for quite some time, it failed to start after sitting for ~18h unplugged in -25C to -30C temperatures. The battery at that point was only a year old, I'm pretty sure, and it seems very unreasonable for a car to not start after one short instance of cold. It has an aftermarket command start installed, but I'm otherwise not leaving it in any condition that would impose extra battery drain. I've so far survived the current polar vortex situation by keeping it plugged in and starting it incredibly often, but I spaced on it today and it sat for ~20h without a start and now I'm preeeeeetty sure the battery's toast. It was plugged in the entire time, and there's even a trickle charger on it that was a suggested install the last time this happened to me (to prevent literally the current situation). I'm just... tired of it. Are there any avenues I should explore other than "well it's winter, time to get a new battery"?
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Feb 11, 2021 07:59
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Try a battery blanket? And yeah you will want a trickle charger with those short trips. One thing to know is that a fully charged battery is full of concentrated sulfuric acid, which doesn't easily freeze. But a discharged battery is full of very dilute acid, which will freeze pretty easily. So I wouldn't be that surprised if a single discharge+freeze event could ruin the battery.
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Feb 11, 2021 08:41
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