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Frame is bad enough that it would need repair. An experienced carbon repair could fix it, but the cracks mean you definitely can't just put new rivets in and call it good.
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 05:31 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:51 |
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EvilJoven posted:You'll regret it 5 years from now when you need a spare bleed port screw for an out of production brake caliper. Just buy a new bike imo.
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 06:37 |
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eSporks posted:Frame is bad enough that it would need repair. An experienced carbon repair could fix it, but the cracks mean you definitely can't just put new rivets in and call it good. Yeah, and somewhere like Calfee gives no warranty on FD mount repairs. Op: I’d email some of the carbon repair places to get an estimate but unless they’re local you’re also going to have the cost to break the bike down, shipping the frame both ways, and to reassemble the bike. The repair itself shouldn’t be very expensive if it’s just the FD mounting area of the seat tube and you wouldn’t need to worry about paintwork if you don’t care, but you’ll have a lot of little charges adding up.
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 12:54 |
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I'll look into the repair as it’s my only road bike. I want to stay active on the trainer in the meantime. I ride in ERG so I don't care about losing gears, but will it damage the frame further and how do I keep the chain on?
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 14:23 |
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Crumps Brother posted:The guide brake caliper on my fatty started sticking. I got it replaced and now all is well. If I crack open the original caliper and cleaned out all the corrosion can I hang on to it as a usable spare or is it just shot for good? FWIW when my (2015) guides started sticking this past fall I had a shop get warranty replacements from SRAM. If you managed to get warranty replacements without sending in the broken ones, nice, but if you just bought a replacement maybe you could get the broken one turned into a second functioning one by magic of SRAM warranty
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 17:20 |
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Stitecin posted:I'll look into the repair as it’s my only road bike. I want to stay active on the trainer in the meantime. I ride in ERG so I don't care about losing gears, but will it damage the frame further and how do I keep the chain on? I don’t think you’d cause additional damage, and being on a trainer would hopefully mean less stress as you’re not running over bumps and the like. If you’re running it in ERG mode you shouldn’t need to do anything special to keep the chain on.
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# ? Feb 14, 2021 22:50 |
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:...If you’re running it in ERG mode you shouldn’t need to do anything special to keep the chain on. Thank you, and all others who have replied. I was thinking that if the frame isn't in peril maybe a 1× conversion in stead of the carbon repair. How is the 1× road tech in 2021?
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 00:19 |
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If you can find it the GRX stuff is great. Get a 44t or so ring put an 11-42 on the back and go to town.
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 00:49 |
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I would expect if you've ripped the top layer of carbon off or cracked it you should get the frame repaired regardless of if you run another FD, once carbon starts to go it goes quick.
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 00:56 |
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Stitecin posted:in stead of the carbon repair You could still do some epoxying over the holes/cracks if you do decide to commit to 1x.
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 00:57 |
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Stitecin posted:Thank you, and all others who have replied. I was thinking that if the frame isn't in peril maybe a 1× conversion in stead of the carbon repair. How is the 1× road tech in 2021?
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 15:02 |
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evil_bunnY posted:I'm gonna be the party pooper here and say that you can't know how much damage you've done to the seat tube without NDT, and additional riding can totally propagate cracks as they're stress concentrations once they start. You can see cracks in the pic. Those alone will spread, and there is really no telling whats underneath. *might* be cool on a trainer, but riding this thing in the wild is a death wish without a professional looking at it.
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# ? Feb 15, 2021 23:17 |
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It's best to have good information even when it isn't good news. Thank you all again.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 01:12 |
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Alright everyone, I have a mystery click that I'd love your input about. It's coming vaguely from the drivetrain and can sort of be felt up the cranks sometimes. It's intermittent, and almost like a high pitched chirping click. Seems to happen generally when under moderate strain. Doesn't seem to happen standing. Most noticeable in lower gears, both in big and small chainrings. For reference, drivetrain is (as you'll see) all fairly new Ultegra 11sp. I know mystery clicks are impossible to diagnose, so I'm hoping just for any ideas of things to try apart from what I have already done, which includes: - aligned derailleur hanger - removed, greased, tightened chainrings - replaced chain - replaced cassette - replaced rear derailleur and inner shift cable - regreased and tightened rear skewer - checked tightness of tubeless valve - regreased and tightened pedals, and tried another pair of pedals - regreased and checked tightness of seatpost and clamp - twisted and pressed saddle to ensure it's not a saddle thing; I can't produce the noise from the saddle I have a new bottom bracket on the way (given that the old one has several thousand miles, many rainy and gravely) but I'm already mentally preparing for the click to persist given how it has gone so far. I'll regrease the appropriate crank spots when I pull them for the bb if necessary. Anything I have missed?
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 03:27 |
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Does it happen out of the saddle? Handlebar faceplate greased or friction pasted and torqued to spec? Edit: oh wait, you said it doesn't happen standing. Swap the saddle imo. Or wrap the rails in a single layer of cloth tape. bicievino fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Feb 16, 2021 |
# ? Feb 16, 2021 03:34 |
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kgibson posted:Anything I have missed? If you ride clipless, have you tried replacing your cleats? A buddy of mine redid his bottom bracket three times before trying that, but it was the problem. New BB on the way could also be it. I solve a lot of random clicks/creaks even just by removing the BB and cleaning out/regreasing the shell and the BB when able.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 03:38 |
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Spoke overlap/contact points?
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 03:41 |
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As far as I can tell, no spoke contact. I've checked heel clearance, made sure cage-mounted pump is out of the way, etc. Any recommendations for the best cloth tape? I'll order a roll on Amazon. Cleats have been replaced within the last 18 months but that's another good idea. I'll re-check those screws, too. (They're speedplay zeros.) The handlebar faceplate is another good idea that I'll check and re-torque! Thanks everyone. Will keep you all posted...
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 03:44 |
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I use Tesa 51608 cloth tape. But to be clear I'd swap the saddle if you can to fully remove that variable.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 04:42 |
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Yes. It'll be a minute before I can swap it so I'll give the tape a go first. Thanks.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 04:58 |
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kgibson posted:Yes. It'll be a minute before I can swap it so I'll give the tape a go first. Thanks. Good luck!
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 05:06 |
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Interesting, I've never heard of the cloth tape trick. I usually go with grease or carbon paste on the rails.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 18:03 |
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Quick update after a ride today: after the stem faceplate bolt check, no change, so it wasn't that. I also did end up hearing it when standing, which seems to rule out the saddle. Should be able to pull cranks and bb in the next few days. Fingers crossed that'll make a change. Thanks again all.
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# ? Feb 16, 2021 22:57 |
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I snapped this alloy fork putting the bike into a rack: Replacing it with a steel one. The frame (recumbent) is steel anyway.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 03:39 |
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I've rounded out the bolt on the front of my seatpost a bit (it's a two bolt seatpost, cannondale 3). I can still get it tight enough but I'd like to order a replacement. The reason it's gotten rounded out is the head of my torque wrench is too big to get close enough to the seatpost, causing the wrench to go in at an angle. Where do I go to find a replacement bolt? Is there a better tool I can use than my torque wrench for tightening the bolt that needs less clearance for the tool so it'll fit? I guess I could just use a hex key but I like being able to set the torque. edit: I checked and the tool I have needs 5.5mm clearance, which is too much. I feel like less than 5.5mm is an absurdly tight fit for getting at this bolt. I might just have to use a hex key and not worry about the torque. Dren fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Feb 17, 2021 |
# ? Feb 17, 2021 05:25 |
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Dren posted:I've rounded out the bolt on the front of my seatpost a bit (it's a two bolt seatpost, cannondale 3). I can still get it tight enough but I'd like to order a replacement. The reason it's gotten rounded out is the head of my torque wrench is too big to get close enough to the seatpost, causing the wrench to go in at an angle. Where do I go to find a replacement bolt? Is there a better tool I can use than my torque wrench for tightening the bolt that needs less clearance for the tool so it'll fit? I guess I could just use a hex key but I like being able to set the torque. When you say seat post bolt, I'm assuming you mean the bolt attaching the saddle to the post? Fwiw I've never used torque for those bolts, even with carbon rails. Don't @ me if you bust your saddle tho.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 07:01 |
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Dren posted:Where do I go to find a replacement bolt? Assuming you can take measurements off your existing bolt (which may require backing it all the way out), you can buy replacements at McMaster Carr, or my preferred site cuz it's closer to me, boltdepot.com Most likely in this spot: https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_screws.aspx?nv=rel or maybe https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_shoulder_bolts.aspx?nv=l
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 07:30 |
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VideoGameVet posted:I snapped this alloy fork putting the bike into a rack: I actually think this was already compromised, it's not a close up (you can take a better look IRL) but these areas seem fouled/darker than the other areas: It would be weird to have two points of failure from stress like that but it could be that this indicates a failure was already there as dirt had already gotten onto those surfaces, compared to the bright grey areas where the metal failed just now.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 09:05 |
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VideoGameVet posted:I snapped this alloy fork putting the bike into a rack:
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 13:46 |
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bicievino posted:Fwiw I've never used torque for those bolts, even with carbon rails. Don't @ me if you bust your saddle tho.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 16:06 |
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CopperHound posted:Thomson seatposts like cracking up there and they will tell you to pound sand because you didn't use a torque wrench. (Nobody uses a torque wrench for their saddle clamp) Why are Thomson posts so highly regarded? Their hardware is soft as pudding, they seem to popularize zero offset posts that help virtually no one with fit, and their setbacks are so goddamn ugly. Plus, their collars suck too. No consistency on sizing at all. Are branded seatpost shipping bags what people think is worth the price of admission?!?
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 02:40 |
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CopperHound posted:(Nobody uses a torque wrench for their saddle clamp) i do! my guesstimates have been grossly wrong before buy a ritchey seat post
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 05:11 |
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kgibson posted:Alright everyone, I have a mystery click that I'd love your input about. It's coming vaguely from the drivetrain and can sort of be felt up the cranks sometimes. It's intermittent, and almost like a high pitched chirping click. Seems to happen generally when under moderate strain. Doesn't seem to happen standing. Most noticeable in lower gears, both in big and small chainrings. For reference, drivetrain is (as you'll see) all fairly new Ultegra 11sp. Update about this mystery noise: seems to have been loose rear wheel spoke or spokes. I retensioned them all, added a dab of lube to points of intersection, and had a silent ride today. Hopefully that'll be that!
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 05:23 |
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amenenema posted:Why are Thomson posts so highly regarded? Their hardware is soft as pudding, they seem to popularize zero offset posts that help virtually no one with fit, and their setbacks are so goddamn ugly. Plus, their collars suck too. No consistency on sizing at all. Are branded seatpost shipping bags what people think is worth the price of admission?!?
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 11:25 |
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amenenema posted:Why are Thomson posts so highly regarded? Their hardware is soft as pudding, they seem to popularize zero offset posts that help virtually no one with fit, and their setbacks are so goddamn ugly. Plus, their collars suck too. No consistency on sizing at all. Are branded seatpost shipping bags what people think is worth the price of admission?!? I agree with you about Thompson but lmao at the idea of zero offsets not helping fit. Virtually everyone who cares about going fast on a bike should be on a zero offset seatpost.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 16:54 |
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Going to a zero offset post on my touring bike made a huge difference for me. The frame was a touch too large for me with a regular seatpost but after giving one a try it feels perfect.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 17:14 |
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kgibson posted:Update about this mystery noise: seems to have been loose rear wheel spoke or spokes. I retensioned them all, added a dab of lube to points of intersection, and had a silent ride today. Hopefully that'll be that! Where's my certificate of appreciation? ;D As for seatposts, when I was trying to find a post for my Rockhopper -> gravel build basically everything I read said that except for some very edge cases setback posts don't make sense. TT's and weird fit situations were the common exceptions. Got any examples of more "general use"? I'm genuinely curious! Edit - stuff like this https://analogcycles.com/zero-offset-seatposts-make-zero-sense-mostly/
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 20:20 |
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amenenema posted:Where's my certificate of appreciation? ;D I've never heard of those guys, but the bios on their site suggest that they don't have any education in physiology or bike fitting. It sounds like they come mostly from a mountain bike or touring background, and for that style of riding I can see not worrying about saddle position. Further back, more upright - makes a lot of sense. They make a claim about what pro riders use which is pretty readily shown to be false, but that could just be based on not staying up with current trends - a decade ago they'd be spot on. The current state of 'fast cycling fit' is to shift much more to a TT style fit even for general road/crit riding. This goes hand in hand with the understanding that flat forearms on the hoods is more aero than a completely slammed stem. A more forward body position relative to the BB let's you achieve a more aerodynamic position without negatively impacting your hip angle (and thus ability to generate power, especially at high cadences). This is why you see folks who have spent a lot of wind tunnel time bumping up against the limits of the UCI's restrictions on moving their saddle forward. (Also, of course the UCI only bans things that are cool and good, so there is a ban on moving the saddle forward, but you could throw it back as far the gently caress as you want as far as they're concerned - which nobody does because it offers no performance advantage). Bottom line: for endurance cycling/touring/whatever you're spot on, but for going fast on pavement, slam that saddle forward, and get a longer stem, too.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 21:43 |
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amenenema posted:Where's my certificate of appreciation? ;D If you're ever in socal I'll buy you a beer 😁
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 23:00 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:51 |
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kgibson posted:If you're ever in socal I'll buy you a beer 😁 Bless u
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 02:37 |