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GoGoGadgetChris posted:What did the damages end up being? I collected 18 bids for a single master bathroom between August 2019 and December 2020 and all 18 were between $50k and $70k $170k or so. $75k per full bathroom, $20k for the powder if I took a guess at the breakdown. Significant layout changes in one bathroom (moving a couple of walls in adjacent rooms), full re-plumb in both, new subpanel because of heated tile, two large tile showers, floating custom vanities, branded hardware, etc. So definitely more scope than your bathroom. We're also a high-touch firm, each project manager only has one project at a time. On dead days they'll go hang cabinets or something for another project manager, but they only manage one project at a time. This project also did not have any moments where we were asked to present something more economical, just to give you an idea of the client's mindset.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 00:04 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 12:16 |
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How significant were those structural changes? 170k is legitimately *a lot* even for the SFBA. And I do know most of the prices for tile/vanities/hardware.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 01:50 |
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ntan1 posted:How significant were those structural changes? Very few actual structural changes, but moving all the walls requires repainting three adjacent rooms and replacing some cabinetry that no longer 'fits' anymore with the changes. It's always possible to spend more money. Find the most expensive piece of hardware in one catalog and there is another catalog that starts at that price point. Like, 'good' cabinet hardware starts at $10/piece or even less. The cabinet hardware in this project is around $45/piece. A normal toilet is around $600 maybe, the toilets in this project are $8,000 and there are toilet options up to $20,000 available without even going to a weird brand.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 03:01 |
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The things you poo poo in? Jesus
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 03:03 |
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At $8,000 it starts becoming an experience, and at $20,000 I'm pretty sure you have to buy a ticket to ride it.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 03:07 |
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Tezer posted:Very few actual structural changes, but moving all the walls requires repainting three adjacent rooms and replacing some cabinetry that no longer 'fits' anymore with the changes. Somebody really wanted 2 Neorest toilets I guess. But even those you can get them at 40% off of MSRP. I mean, when doing my remodel I noticed like three price ranges for cabinet hardware: 1) $3 = Home Depot 2) $6-9 = Top Knob 3) $10-20 = Luxury Brands 4) ??? = Super Custom ???
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 04:01 |
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The key to picking expensive hardware: name brand, go big (like, 12 inch pulls on every cab), and go for tricky materials like unlacquered brass. Horton Brass has some inexpensive stuff, but at least one line is over $100 per pull. Just one example.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 04:35 |
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Tezer posted:$170k or so. $75k per full bathroom, $20k for the powder if I took a guess at the breakdown.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 06:01 |
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https://twitter.com/ThomasBlackGG/status/1361477444746813440 have a feeling it’s going to be hard to get a hold of a plumber anywhere in Texas for quite a while This could be roof leakage, but from my coworkers down there, sounds like whole neighborhoods are gonna have burst pipes to deal with
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 16:31 |
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Squinky v2.0 posted:https://twitter.com/ThomasBlackGG/status/1361477444746813440 Oh certainly. Lord knows if we got a hard freeze all of the exterior pipes in my house would be goners.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 16:55 |
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H110Hawk posted:Oh certainly. Lord knows if we got a hard freeze all of the exterior pipes in my house would be goners. We sleep with a white noise machine with ocean noises because it absolutely knocks out our newborn, but lord knows I’ve gotten an adrenaline rush waking up to the noise of water these past few days. Texas is absolutely not built for these temperatures.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 17:08 |
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Democratic Pirate posted:We sleep with a white noise machine with ocean noises because it absolutely knocks out our newborn, but lord knows I’ve gotten an adrenaline rush waking up to the noise of water these past few days. Texas is absolutely not built for these temperatures. Our tankless hot water is outside of our bedroom so I've dreamed about water through the mechanical white noise machine and woken up to a shot of adrenaline... Only to realize it's someone getting a drink of water in the bathroom and the dishwasher is doing its thing.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 17:21 |
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We have a leak currently - likely an iced up box gutter or failed flashing on dormer - and it’s made me hyper aware of all the dripping from icicles that goes on right outside the windows all around the house. Keep thinking the dripping is coming from everywhere inside the house even though the actual leak is isolated.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 17:44 |
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Nitrousoxide posted:Talk to your neighbors. What might take hours and hours of research they might be able to point you to in a few seconds. They are all presumably aware of what they owe and how they know it. So the neighbors I was able to talk to also have no idea, since apparently they never paid dues either. But someone on Nextdoor did give an email address for my HOA. I sent them an email, haven't heard anything back, but it's only been one day, so we'll see.
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# ? Feb 17, 2021 20:01 |
So the carpeted part of my basement has an area where the floor below is exposed and oh boy it looks like it's probably asbestos tile(50s looking alternating black and beige) and it's even chipped a little bit in the area that's exposed. Well this sucks, but guess something needs to be done at some point. The carpet isn't in great shape and I assume that even if I wait as long as possible to do this, it's probably gonna be a whole tear up job. It's not certain, but a house built in the 60's with some well hidden black and beige tiles doesn't really bode well for it not being asbestos. So I'm going to assume until proven otherwise that yes, this is asbestos, and yes it will need to go. Anyone have any previous experience with how bad this could potentially be to clean up both in time and money? Obviously I wouldn't do this myself and would have a professional do it. I'm probably looking at having to: tear up the existing floor, possibly even the framing/walls in a roughly 400sqft area and then have that spot refinished or just no longer have half my basement finished, which loving sucks because I love my basement cave. wilderthanmild fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 04:07 |
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wilderthanmild posted:So the carpeted part of my basement has an area where the floor below is exposed and oh boy it looks like it's probably asbestos tile(50s looking alternating black and beige) and it's even chipped a little bit in the area that's exposed. What do you intend to put on your floor when you're done? Because if it's something that can go over those tiles I would do that and kick the can down the road. They're fine in situ, it's bashing them up that causes problems.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 04:59 |
H110Hawk posted:What do you intend to put on your floor when you're done? Because if it's something that can go over those tiles I would do that and kick the can down the road. They're fine in situ, it's bashing them up that causes problems. It's 2 rooms and one I was considering laminate in one and simply new carpet in the other. Though I guess in this scenario the laminate would be better in both. I'm not against just sealing it away, I'm just considering my worst case scenario where once the carpet is removed we have a whole floor of broken, cracked, crumbling tiles under the existing carpet and that actually removing them is basically going to be mandatory. I guess we could just put new flooring on top of the existing carpet, but that just seems wrong. wilderthanmild fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 05:21 |
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wilderthanmild posted:So the carpeted part of my basement has an area where the floor below is exposed and oh boy it looks like it's probably asbestos tile(50s looking alternating black and beige) and it's even chipped a little bit in the area that's exposed. I was under the impression that those asbestos floor tiles are in the extreme low end in terms of personal danger. We might have signed our death warrant, but we removed a few of them with basic ppe, making sure they were damp, and using a chisel under them so they came up whole and without fracturing.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 05:36 |
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The danger is also if they mixed asbestos into the mastic. We basically built whole homes out of the stuff for a short while there. The tiles themselves are fine if kept wet, the air is kept damp, and you wear appropriate ppe. Turn off your forced ventilation and tape a piece of plastic over the registers / returns to be sure. Have clothes you can strip off into the washing machine. Very low risk. Mastic? Nope. Call a pro.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 05:45 |
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H110Hawk posted:What do you intend to put on your floor when you're done? Because if it's something that can go over those tiles I would do that and kick the can down the road. They're fine in situ, it's bashing them up that causes problems. And if you do this, don't test the tiles that are now buried. Otherwise, most disclosure forms will force you to list that there is asbestos/asbestos was tested for in the house when you go to sell.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 22:13 |
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B-Nasty posted:And if you do this, don't test the tiles that are now buried. Otherwise, most disclosure forms will force you to list that there is asbestos/asbestos was tested for in the house when you go to sell. I'm going to take the position that it's hosed up, and also acknowledge that the incentives are indeed for you to retain your ignorance on the tiles.
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# ? Feb 18, 2021 22:19 |
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Anyone know water heaters? I’m one of the lucky few in Texas who never lost heat or power, but despite that one of my attic-placed 50 gal water heaters sprung a leak a little while ago. All the piping around it seems fine, no signs of freezing or anything. We shut off the line that feeds to it and the leak has stopped, but I’m trying to figure out if this is something I can fix myself since a plumber may be a ways out due to demand... So far I have shut off the gas and water supply. Hooked up a hose to drain whatever is in the tank, but nothing came out... what are the odds the whole tank has gone vs sediment build up? Is there a good checklist of things to try to determine cause of leaks? EDIT: water heater is right at ten years old
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 00:27 |
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If you can't see an external leak the "fix" is replacing it. If it's never been services then sure, you could have the drain completely plugged with crap. The fact that it's in an attic makes this quite an interesting proposition to deal with. I'd imagine it's going to be tough to find a plumber.....or even plumbing supplies...for quite some time but this is absolutely a "hire it out" job based on your post.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 00:30 |
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Motronic posted:If you can't see an external leak the "fix" is replacing it. I’m probably ok with that since it’s a new-to-us home under warranty... I already put in the work order but just wanted to try and be proactive if I could. Like I said, no sign of freezing or anything on the pipes, so they shouldn’t be able to screw us over on a weather technicality.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 00:33 |
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Thanks for the reality check. We will have access to a bathroom at all times and this is going to happen while the unit is completely empty. I plan to start talking to contractors now so work can start once tenants have moved out at the end of March. I'm hoping we won't have to move in while work is ongoing but good to plan for that. I just want my thermostatic valves and Japanese toilet.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 00:46 |
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Gin_Rummy posted:Anyone know water heaters? I’m one of the lucky few in Texas who never lost heat or power, but despite that one of my attic-placed 50 gal water heaters sprung a leak a little while ago. All the piping around it seems fine, no signs of freezing or anything. We shut off the line that feeds to it and the leak has stopped, but I’m trying to figure out if this is something I can fix myself since a plumber may be a ways out due to demand... Where's it leaking from? If it's not from a connector of some sort there's not a ton you can do about it other then replacing it. You should be able to tell if it's got water in it by trying to (slightly) move it. Water heaters are essentially sheet metal tanks - if you can easily move it, it's empty. If not, you've got a bunch of sediment and should shove a screwdriver through the drain connector to try and dislodge it. 10 years old is pretty near to end of life without regular anode replacement, so I'd be concerned your warranty tries to pass it off as old age.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 02:20 |
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devicenull posted:Where's it leaking from? If it's not from a connector of some sort there's not a ton you can do about it other then replacing it. You should be able to tell if it's got water in it by trying to (slightly) move it. Water heaters are essentially sheet metal tanks - if you can easily move it, it's empty. If not, you've got a bunch of sediment and should shove a screwdriver through the drain connector to try and dislodge it. I am assuming that the home warranty covers this failure regardless of the unit’s age, but that is a good point. I’ll probably have to find out before I get their plumber out here. I was more worried about them trying to say the freeze would’ve caused this, but again, there are no signs of any icing at all.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 04:29 |
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Has anyone here used one of those custom made to order blinds sites like SelectBlinds or can recommend a company? I had no idea blinds were so incredibly expensive. I've gotten a single quote so far and for 8 windows with roman fabric shades it came out to $4100 from one company. And about $2000 if I ordered online. In my mind blinds dont seem like something that would be that hard to install but maybe I'm missing something.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 14:44 |
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Has anyone here used one of those custom made to order blinds sites like SelectBlinds or can recommend a company? We just got black out cordless blinds for my kid’s room on SelectBlinds and they are totally fine. Measured the windows, put the sizes in, and the fit is perfect. I get the impression most of the Blind websites are all pretty much the same.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 14:54 |
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Has anyone here used one of those custom made to order blinds sites like SelectBlinds or can recommend a company? I've used Blinds.com as well as Home Depot just a few months ago for my new house and was satisfied with both choices. Went with HD for one set because it came in a little faster and it was for a new house without any coverings in the bedroom and i wanted privacy asap
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 15:10 |
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We used Blinds Chalet for ours, custom ordered to fit some weird windows. Cordless cell shades and the best blackout shades you've ever seen, they have some with a track for the edges and bottom so virtually no light gets through.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 15:17 |
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Has anyone here used one of those custom made to order blinds sites like SelectBlinds or can recommend a company? We used Blindster and had no issues with quality and they're relatively easy to install, and it wasn't wildly expensive because we went with fairly basic stuff.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 15:25 |
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House Ownership Thread: I had no idea [blank] was so incredibly expensive
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 15:49 |
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ScooterMcTiny posted:We just got black out cordless blinds for my kid’s room on SelectBlinds and they are totally fine. Measured the windows, put the sizes in, and the fit is perfect. I get the impression most of the Blind websites are all pretty much the same. Can confirm, we've ordered from SelectBlinds and Blinds.com, it's pretty much all the same at this point
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 15:51 |
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MrLogan posted:House Ownership Thread: I had no idea [blank] was so incredibly expensive Perfection.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 16:00 |
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Hunter Douglas is excellent and they'll pretty much repair and replace them for life nowadays. Just don't be dumb like me and get crisp white blinds that immediately got stains from who KNOWS what
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 17:50 |
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Bali blinds through Costco for me. I've done faux wood, real wood, and two Roman shades. One of those Roman shades was a two window group, with independent shades for each window, about 7-8 feet wide in total. Beyond the stress of measuring, it's not hard. Measure multiple times, think hard on it. And mounting is the same, lay it out carefully, mount with ideas of adjustment. They all went up first try and by myself. And yes, they're expensive. The two Roman shades, that huge one and a smaller one, was about $900. Each other opening for blinds was around $100-125. I upgrade for the no holes blinds, and they're drat near blackout. Also personally I prefer having cords vs no cord, they can be heavy. Maybe I haven't had the highest quality cordless ones. It could also be the difference between faux wood blinds and cellular shades, those are pretty nice cordless.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 18:21 |
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I prefer corded blinds too, I think the cordless mechanisms are prone to failure earlier and it's hard sometimes to get them to stay perfectly level. Luckily I also don't have babies or small animals that could potentially strangle themselves to death on them. I am currently struggling to decide what kind of shades I want to put in my living room. I am going to get one of those day/night shades for my front door, because I have a porch light that is always on when its's dark. I've got 3 other windows, one next to a TV and two on an opposing wall from the TV. Ideally I just want light filtering most of the time except when I am sitting down to watch a movie, at which point I'd like to make the room as dark as possible. Guess I can go with day/night shades for those windows too but wish they made them with the blackout portion on the top and not just the bottom.
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 18:35 |
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Holy moly, some aspect of my (gas) furnace is on the fritz. Presumably a belt, fan, or blower type component because it's noise related. This morning we noticed the heater was louder than usual and making more of a whirr-whirr-whirr (rapid.. like 5 whirrs per second) rather than the continuous hum of stable airflow. It's still functioning for now, but wow it's LOUD and getting louder throughout the day. When the blower kicks in, the air comes whooshing in with such gusto it makes us all jump HVAC specialists will be here in 72 hours so here's to hoping it keeps working until then!! Obnoxiously, we had a winter "furnace tune-up" that gave us a clean bill of health so I am displeased to be writing another check so soon
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# ? Feb 19, 2021 23:56 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 12:16 |
Update on my asbestos tile situation: the previous owner loving nailed the tackstrips for the carpet into the tiles. This probably means I can't even just put a new floor over it without getting loving asbestos everywhere. I also kinda assume that any flooring contractor I bring in would look at that and say gently caress no.
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# ? Feb 20, 2021 16:14 |