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Alright I'm in the middle of my fourth read-through of the last 2 years' worth of posts so I still have some learning to do but a couple quick questions pop into my mind as I'm narrowing down stuff for my kids, who are turning 10 and 8 this year. 10-year old first, and from watching stuff online he seems equally enthusiastic about rock crawling type stuff as he does about bashing around, but he does have a really big preference for building vs. RTR. I think that preference would even override vehicle type, so I'm really trying to search for buildable kits. He seems enthusiastic about monster truck or short course type, and that matches what we have around for him to break it on. Pretty convinced we want 4WD, and just to limit the research I have looked primarily at Traxxas (Slash or Stampede) and ARRMA (Senton and whatever the lower-end truck is, not the Kraton), but the buildable kits are limited. I guess the first question really is, for like 5-600 bucks all told (2 or 3 total batteries and charger, some spares, between zero and a couple "hardening" options), what should I be looking into? Don't really mind going brushed at first but I will probably want to rip around with these things so if the transmitter has a throttle response pot/switch, can I realistically hand an 8-year old with no experience and limited understanding of proportional control some brushless 3S monstrosity and expect him not to immediately vaporize it? Alternatively, if he really wants to build it, it looks like the only buildable stampede kit is brushed/nimh, so it's either upgrade in the future or if I wanted to get super silly, can we tear down the RTR brushless/lipo and rebuild using the kit manual? We wouldn't have to do EVERYTHING like disassemble the transmission, unglue crap, remove adhesive foam etc. but I'm thinking just taking the guts out and disassembling the suspension etc. is going to be a big deal for him to be able to build back up. Currently trying to research other brands as well, I don't mind paying for something that's easy to work on and is a little more robust. So much to absorb JFC.
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Feb 19, 2021 20:54
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I'm new to all this, and wondered if I have this right. Can ya'll tell me, would I be able to order this fpv set up : Nano cam/tx combo EV800D Goggles and plug it into the aux 3 on the ecs of the SCX24 for some FPV mini crawling? It seems like it'd be as easy as that but that also makes me feel like I'm missing stuff.
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Feb 20, 2021 02:36
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uwaeve posted:So much to absorb JFC. I don't have a great sense for what kids can and can't do at those ages, but if they're equally into crawlers as faster things, why not stick with a crawler to start since they're inherently slower and also more fun to use at the lower speed than some kind of short course brushless thing dialed way down? Like an SCX10 kit or similar.
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Feb 20, 2021 03:06
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deong posted:I'm new to all this, and wondered if I have this right. Can ya'll tell me, would I be able to order this fpv set up : Maybe. Sometimes the servo channels on receivers are rather current limited. Personally I'd go with a basic BEC like this You'd just splice the input into your ESC battery connection, and it outputs a nice solid high current 5v for you to run your FPV gear. Without the BEC you could brownout your receiver (Where it can't supply enough oomph to run everything). Admittedly that's not as big of a deal on the ground as opposed to an FPV plane, but it's still not good.  I took my crawler out to conquer the snow trails behind my house. I really need to unfuck the body, the odd angle between the bed and cab looks terrible in this picture. It's mostly because the Sendero body on an Enduro kit chassis the chassis mounts don't quite line up right.
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Feb 20, 2021 18:58
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Enos Shenk posted:
Looks pretty authentic for a certain generation of trucks, honestly.
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Feb 20, 2021 19:28
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wallaka posted:Looks pretty authentic for a certain generation of trucks, honestly. There is someone in my neighborhood who has owned at least four different trucks in the time I've lived here. Every single one has been banana'd like this.
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Feb 20, 2021 19:41
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Enos Shenk posted:Maybe. Sometimes the servo channels on receivers are rather current limited. Personally I'd go with a basic BEC like this You'd just splice the input into your ESC battery connection, and it outputs a nice solid high current 5v for you to run your FPV gear. Without the BEC you could brownout your receiver (Where it can't supply enough oomph to run everything). Admittedly that's not as big of a deal on the ground as opposed to an FPV plane, but it's still not good. Rad. That was my concern, but the manual didn't really say what its output was. This seems dumb but I'm giddy at the thought lol
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Feb 20, 2021 20:18
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uwaeve posted:Alright I'm in the middle of my fourth read-through of the last 2 years' worth of posts so I still have some learning to do but a couple quick questions pop into my mind as I'm narrowing down stuff for my kids, who are turning 10 and 8 this year. 10-year old first, and from watching stuff online he seems equally enthusiastic about rock crawling type stuff as he does about bashing around, but he does have a really big preference for building vs. RTR. I think that preference would even override vehicle type, so I'm really trying to search for buildable kits. He seems enthusiastic about monster truck or short course type, and that matches what we have around for him to break it on. Pretty convinced we want 4WD, and just to limit the research I have looked primarily at Traxxas (Slash or Stampede) and ARRMA (Senton and whatever the lower-end truck is, not the Kraton), but the buildable kits are limited. So many questions and if I was at a computer I would type out a longer reply and will probably revisit this with more detail. If you want to go fast get the RTR. Builders Kits are the best but they are more expensive. If you want to go fast RTR is the way to go. I strongly suggest 4WD. They just drive a lot better and they are more fun for new drivers too. The ARRMA truck thing has a brushed and brushless option. Go with whatever works with your budget. If you want to do a crawler the kit will be more expensive but you’ll likely get things you will end up buying anyhow because they are extremely addictive and so much fun. Getting the SCX10ii raw builders kit and choosing a body and tires and wheels would be super fun. Update: the Sand Scorcher is nearly done. Just finalizing where and how I want electronics mounted and wired. Then I’ll need to paint the body. Also my friend with the 65cc VEKTA texted me and said he was selling it and gave me a stupidly cheap deal that I couldn’t pass up so I bought it. Grabbed a receiver last week and will probably get that all programmed this weekend and maybe rip it down the street and scare the locals 
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Feb 21, 2021 00:08
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powderific posted:I don't have a great sense for what kids can and can't do at those ages, but if they're equally into crawlers as faster things, why not stick with a crawler to start since they're inherently slower and also more fun to use at the lower speed than some kind of short course brushless thing dialed way down? Like an SCX10 kit or similar. I think this is what I'm going to do. The older one really wants to build and this may be the start of a whole fleet so it makes sense to start here. If they get bored with it, I'm more likely to want to reverse inherit a crawler I think anyhow. Somewhat Heroic posted:So many questions and if I was at a computer I would type out a longer reply and will probably revisit this with more detail. I agree here too. I am trying to balance availability, cost, and features etc. but right now I think the base is going to be either a TRX-4 Sport Kit or Chassis Kit or SCX10iii Kit. Can someone tell me if I have this roughly right with regard to the features of each? I know nothing comes with battery/charger. SCX10iii kit comes with the dig and 2-speed transmission (I understand I need a micro servo and TX/RX channel for each beyond the 2 needed for steering/throttle). Dig locks the rear wheels together AND (for lack of a better term) to the chassis, so the rear tires drag (seen some video). TRX-4 Chassis kit comes with (maybe mediocre) electronics, front lockable, rear lockable diff, and 2-speed transmission. From the assembly and operating manual I believe I understand why it's 5 servos but only a 4 channel transmitter (the diffs are tied to a single channel, open/front/both rather than front and rear being independent channels). This is what I would think of as the more traditional locking like on my tractor where I can stomp a pedal to lock the rears together for traction at the expense of, well, not being a differential anymore. TRX-4 Sport kit looks like no electronics, single speed transmission, no differentials (both look like options later, 60 for 2-speed guts, 150 for differential guts/servos). edit: retooling total costs, I think I had some things flipped uwaeve fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 03:12
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uwaeve posted:I think this is what I'm going to do. The older one really wants to build and this may be the start of a whole fleet so it makes sense to start here. If they get bored with it, I'm more likely to want to reverse inherit a crawler I think anyhow. With the grain of salt that I also got into this poo poo for the Pandemic... I had this same conversation and got the Trx-4 sport. One of the ideas I saw online was that for a first crawler simpler is better. Easier to build, maintain, and run. I love mine, and had a blast building it.
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Feb 22, 2021 04:25
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uwaeve posted:I think this is what I'm going to do. The older one really wants to build and this may be the start of a whole fleet so it makes sense to start here. If they get bored with it, I'm more likely to want to reverse inherit a crawler I think anyhow. It looks like you have narrowed it down to a few different options and I think any way you go will be a great choice. The crawlers are really a ton of fun and a great way to get kids involved. My daughter (8) and my second (6) will go hiking with me and drive crawlers as we go. It keeps them moving and it is fun for me to join in. My youngest is not quite there yet at being able to walk and drive at the same time but he will get there. If you have looked through some of my posts you will see I built my 10III late last summer. It was a pretty good build and overall I have really had a lot of fun with it. The portal axles and body set make it pretty top heavy. An SCX10II based crawler will outdo this thing I think. The two speed and dig are pretty fun to play with and where I am not going for all out performance I don't mind the limitations. I have a Vanquish VS4-10 Limited that I installed the VFD transmission on and it is a serious crawler. I might look into some overdrive gears from the front portals on the 10III and see if that makes a difference. The big disappointment with the 10III is the Tekin RX4. I am surprised a lot by this, but I hate the reverse. My ancient Novak crawler ESC and my Castle MambaMax Pro are far better. The drag brake of the RX4 is really good but I get just as much braking out of the Castle. If I would go back I would choose the Castle MambaX. The Tekin Elementproof motors are excellent though.  I went with the Axial suggested micro servos for the 10iii and found they kind of sucked. The wires were way too short to fit into the receiver box. That means you likely need a servo extension (dumb). You also need a fair amount of adjustment for your trims/subtrims and end point adjustments because you need only a TINY amount of movement to engage the two speed or dig. If you read up you will see many people burning their servos up on these and it is usually the cause of improperly setup servos though most won't admit (or realize) that is what is going on. So here is what I did:     This is what the Axial suggested servos look like right out of the package. STUPID.  You can see where I built my 10iii here in my post history: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125553&userid=125958&perpage=40&pagenumber=6#post507105226 I am not a Traxxas guy at all. Personal preference but there hasn't been anything coming out of their camp that has gotten me excited. Going with the "Sport" builders kit is a good move. You don't need the locking diff thingies. Maybe a two speed if you want, but honestly just put a faster motor and go to a 3S or 4S battery if you want wheel speed. Here is the current status of the Sand Scorcher. I need to finalize wiring and then I will begin painting the body. I have one month until Paddlepalooza that I want to have this finished in time to drive so hopefully I get it done. I have a ton of work to do on my 1/5 scales I am planning on taking down with me.   
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Feb 22, 2021 19:01
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Snowmankilla posted:With the grain of salt that I also got into this poo poo for the Pandemic... I had this same conversation and got the Trx-4 sport. One of the ideas I saw online was that for a first crawler simpler is better. Easier to build, maintain, and run. I love mine, and had a blast building it. Same, the kit is super fun to build and I've never felt limited by not having the different speeds. The permanently locked differential get a little weird when you cross some pavement or whatever, but for most uses it's no biggie. It's also way bigger than I expected, coming from a 1/16 Slash. Feels like an invincible monster truck that is only defeated when it does the upside down turtle.
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Feb 22, 2021 19:31
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Somewhat Heroic posted:If you read up you will see many people burning their servos up on these and it is usually the cause of improperly setup servos though most won't admit (or realize) that is what is going on. I think this is the truth almost all the time. I read about people smoking ridiculously powerful servos and all I can think is "what on earth were you doing with it??" I don't think I've ever even shredded gears in a servo, let alone smoke the motor or controller.
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Feb 22, 2021 21:56
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kuffs posted:I think this is the truth almost all the time. I read about people smoking ridiculously powerful servos and all I can think is "what on earth were you doing with it??" I don't think I've ever even shredded gears in a servo, let alone smoke the motor or controller. This is completely true, and I have linked it here before but this is a video I made on YouTube about four years ago, 24K views strong now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8qRcYU0Mek
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Feb 22, 2021 22:18
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Haha, I just remembered a trail event that I attended a few years ago. There was a guy playing with a rock rey or something in the parking lot before the event started. He was telling my brother about just constantly breaking servos in it or something. I pick it up, and it's got some aftermarket servo saver in it. But it's tightened waaaay tighter than it should be. I wasn't able to tweak the wheels while holding the servo arm like I expected. I said "hey man, I think your servo saver is a bit too tight." And he said "No it's not, it's supposed to be like that." And I didn't feel like arguing with him. I feel like the name is pretty descriptive: "servo saver". Should be clear what the adjustment is for.
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Feb 22, 2021 23:24
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Somewhat Heroic posted:werds Thanks for the detailed response. I am still looking at the SCX10iii, and will probably have more questions if I go that route. I think my current plan is to try to buy a kit and not agonize over everything up front, since it's going to take us some time to build it up and such. Probably kit and tools to start, electronics as I learn more. At the risk of thread whiplash, wondering if the following list makes sense (along with the ISDT 608AC, sold elsewhere). Since my kid and I sorta swooned over the Capra. Seems similar to the SCX10iii overall. I understand it may be a little goofier mounting the electronics and it's got the single-speed transmission, and potentially limits the battery size. I'm sort of winging it. Is there anything glaringly wrong, aside from sort of going budget with stuff like the motor, servo, transmitter? I feel like I had picked out a $50 Holmes motor (Torquemaster Expert 27T) and waterproof/high-voltage servo (1210 maybe?) and I'm having trouble figuring out what they get me at this point tbh. At this point I'm burnt out (love learning and researching but it's from such a variety of sources I can't keep track). 
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Feb 23, 2021 04:57
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You can probably get a better steering servo for $50, and you need wheels.
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Feb 23, 2021 13:27
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evil_bunnY posted:You can probably get a better steering servo for $50, and you need wheels. Oh word, I will continue to research the servo. Are the wheels that came with the kit not worth using? A lot of the YouTube I've watched on the Capra don't use the stock wheels but a lot of it looked like preference/hey I had thirty sets of wheels lying around. One did mention that the stock diameter was a little large but this was with respect to stiffer foam on the inside of some 2-stage type. Speaking of which, especially for the stuff that's not in the manual, are there any particularly good YouTube channels of builds that I can watch, can be any model really. Just thinking back to seeing things like: how much grease people use, different tools used, little techniques like getting c clips on, etc. I watched this 7-part series and it seems comprehensive, but for all I know people are yelling at the screen for things like drowning stuff in grease or whatever. There's some general toolsmanship crap I see like maybe not realizing the calipers have an inside jaw set, struggling to explain for 45 seconds about what the rest of humanity calls "reverse thread," etc. but it seems clear he has built a lot of these things. He also calls out a bunch of stuff in the description with links. I have watched a couple other "before you build" things on the Capra and SCX10iii that call out manual confusion/errata but the pdfs look updated for the most part. I'm a little bit of a buy once cry once for tools especially. Will I be well-served to get a set of ball end hexes as well as the straight cut ones? I wouldn't mind a good set for working on electronics/firearms as I've been using a wheeler bit set for a long time and it's serviceable but having also done RF-type assembly back in my internship days I appreciate a good "JFC this thing costs how much?" tool for ease of use/ergos. I like my Wera/Wiha stuff too but someone recommended against at least one upthread based on the bit design. Probably just get an MIP set. Again, I feel like my first priority is getting a kit and tools, and I am planning to trickle electronics in over the following weeks while I research a bit and whatever. We are more excited to build than run at this point, and this may let things melt and dry a bit as well (we're on the MA/NH border). edit: For some reason I thought the Internal BEC was per-channel or something but after today's research session I believe I understand the issue. The 1080 ESC BEC will put out 6 OR 7.4 V. Since the little dig servo is only rated for 6 V, I can't feed the steering servo 7.4 without an external BEC, is that right? So it seems like maybe my best bet is get a 6.0/7.4 steering servo like the Savox 1210. Then I have a couple choices: external 10A BEC to have both functions hooked up at once, with the dig getting 6V from the receiver and the steering getting 7.4 from the BEC. Alternatively, without the external BEC I have two choices: run 6 V from the ESC and live with the steering servo 6V performance, or run the ESC BEC at 7.4 and disconnect the dig servo for now, until I add on the external BEC and properly wire everything up to work as in the first case. Sound right? uwaeve fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 16:51
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Double posting but want to make sure this was answered: both the SCX10iii and Capra assembly manuals call out the partially-threaded pin going through the axle that secures the hex that drives the wheel as "available separately." This seems like a critical part, isn't it the part that transfers the power from the axle shaft to the hex to drive the wheel? Literally the only part called out in the manual as "available separately," but also in the build video it looks included. Do I need to buy these separate from the kit?
uwaeve fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 17:18
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So i've been absolutely scouring the internet, trying to find somewhere that has the drat Axial NuKizer body in stock, to no avail. I know it's discontinued but I was kinda hoping somebody would have at least one sitting around somewhere in inventory, or at the very least have a used one they'd be willing to part with, but nada. So I had pretty much given up on ever making this a reality, until I discovered this: The JConcepts M117 Lloyd It's not an officially licensed Jeep body but, good enough for what I want 
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Feb 23, 2021 21:08
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Enos Shenk posted:Maybe. Sometimes the servo channels on receivers are rather current limited. Personally I'd go with a basic BEC like this You'd just splice the input into your ESC battery connection, and it outputs a nice solid high current 5v for you to run your FPV gear. Without the BEC you could brownout your receiver (Where it can't supply enough oomph to run everything). Admittedly that's not as big of a deal on the ground as opposed to an FPV plane, but it's still not good. So, back to this. Between this and the drone thread.. My thoughts are between 2 set ups. Around $300. Skyzone Cobra X + Runcam Splitcam nano 4 / vtx Around $160. EV800D + TBS Unify Nano/cam combo I want to be able to plug it into both an Axial 1:24 SCX24 crawler or the losi 1:18 mini t. And also, since its nano think i could also strap it onto my DJI Mini with a 1s (100g payload) for FPV for funsies.i would like having the 4k video for youtube for friends, but i have no youtube star aspersions. It seems going sky zone gets me the best analog but should I just go cheaper, decide if I like it, then get digital and sell? It seems the skyzones are great but also close to the next upgrade. Either route I'd be looking to add the BEC. Man soo many options.... Leaning towards going ev800d and see how into it i go?
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Feb 24, 2021 04:59
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So the guy who designed the Jeep I printed out has just released a new model https://www.3dsets.com/product/model-7-buggy/ It's pretty badass and might have to get printed out now! A pretty awesome shot of it in action 
mattfl fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 22:07
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Hmmm, a 1/8th scale Sand Scorcher. Nice
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Feb 27, 2021 23:14
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In the middle of building up a Capra, and had some quick questions. First, how tight do I tighten the slip disc stack? I’ve seen other transmissions have a spring and instructions to set the exact right force, this just has a spacer... In the transmission, there’s a piece of cover that is rubbing where two gears mesh. It’s not enough to bind, but enough to click along. Is it meant to be interfering a little? It’s the back of the cover at the left, it has a V where the two gears in the diagram come together at the top. I’m having a tough time seeing how it could be misaligned, the cover doesn’t really slide around and everything is in it’s bearing or seat otherwise. 
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Feb 28, 2021 18:47
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In most r/c parlance that's called a 'slipper clutch' which will aid your search terms. Usually manuals will have you tighten it all the way down and then back off a set amount as a starting point probably like 1-1.5 turns. If you're holding both ends of the transmission output stationary the spur gear should be very tough to turn, almost impossible. If the truck slips under hard acceleration that's too loose, but it should be able to slip under high throttle when the wheels are bound from spinning (like when they're caught between rocks and unable to turn). The gear cover should absolutely not touch any gears. Check that it's assembled correctly (spacers in the wrong place can cause this), that the shaft the spur gear drives isn't bent, that the cover is mounted properly. If all that is good you can probably trim the inside of the cover a bit.
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Mar 1, 2021 01:13
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I haven’t touched an R/C car since I was a kid but have a sudden urge to play with one. Are there any decent RTR kits <$100? Maybe something like this? https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-28-tr28-2wd-brushed-truggy-rtr/ASC20158.html
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Mar 1, 2021 17:00
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:In most r/c parlance that's called a 'slipper clutch' which will aid your search terms. Usually manuals will have you tighten it all the way down and then back off a set amount as a starting point probably like 1-1.5 turns. If you're holding both ends of the transmission output stationary the spur gear should be very tough to turn, almost impossible. If the truck slips under hard acceleration that's too loose, but it should be able to slip under high throttle when the wheels are bound from spinning (like when they're caught between rocks and unable to turn). Alright, thanks for the tips. Looks like the SCX10iii and Capra both have a spacer rather than the spring I've seen elsewhere, and from reading people back off 0, 1/4, 1/2, all the way up to 1.5 or 2 turns. As much as I want to start tight and smoke a $15 motor if I'm wrong, with my luck it'd be the transmission instead so I should probably go loose, with your guidelines, and see if I just wind up slipping everywhere and tighten up from there if so. For the interference, I did check that the parts stack was right but I did not personally check that bearings were seated perfectly etc (building with my son). Everything is together, waiting on the radio today. Next is the nail biter of hooking up everything for the first time. I think I am doing the right steps to be overly conservative. While I'm waiting on the radio today I'll probably tear it down again one last time and triple check. I either changed something slightly or the gears are starting to machine the plastic anyhow, because now it's just a buzz basically, there's no cogging/resistance chance when I spin the spur gear via the nut holding the slipper clutch stack together. It's extremely slight interference. Servo horns off for the initial fire-up and centering. Took the wheels off too, just so it doesn't shoot off into the sunset if I'm wrong. Transmitter always first on, last off. See that servos/motor runs the direction I hope they do. Put on servo horns and set endpoints. Put on wheels. Crawl? Our first setup so it's gonna be electronics temp installed til I figure out wire management and paint body panels and stuff. I failed to get any sort of extra 14 or 12 gauge wire or connectors so at this point I just straight soldered the ESC leads to the motor tabs, they're easy enough to desolder. I have some spare XT60 connectors but it seems like the bullets would be more compact and just as reasonable as far as being able to disconnect things. Are bullets the usual way to connect motors to ESCs? Like ESC leads to female bullets to preclude any shorts, male bullets to motor?
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Mar 1, 2021 17:36
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Looking for a recommendation for a cheap but good 3s lipo capable balance charger. Any suggestions?
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Mar 1, 2021 17:54
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Terminus Est posted:Looking for a recommendation for a cheap but good 3s lipo capable balance charger. Any suggestions? any B6 series charger will do the deed, and most any other thing you might need. for about $30
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Mar 1, 2021 18:37
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Nerobro posted:any B6 series charger will do the deed, and most any other thing you might need. for about $30 Thanks. I kept seeing a thousand B6 variants but wasn't sure if they could be trusted.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:59
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Terminus Est posted:Thanks. I kept seeing a thousand B6 variants but wasn't sure if they could be trusted. I've never heard of one blowing up.... Obviously, watch your first pack or few.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:04
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Bouillon Rube posted:I haven’t touched an R/C car since I was a kid but have a sudden urge to play with one. Are there any decent RTR kits <$100? That’s pretty cool, but I think the cheapest Arrma you could pick up is probably the play.
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Mar 2, 2021 03:57
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Terminus Est posted:Looking for a recommendation for a cheap but good 3s lipo capable balance charger. Any suggestions? I was gonna recommend the ISDT Q6 but that's a DC charger and you probably want an AC charger. An alternative to what was suggested is the ISDT 608AC which is kinda like a Q6 with an AC power supply tacked on, I think.
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Mar 2, 2021 22:03
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I've been using this one with zero issue so far. Dad has the same one for his helis, and so far the only thing i've noticed is it gets fairly warm after a bit. Never had it shut off or catch on fire though, and my 2S batteries have yet to explode or fail 
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Mar 3, 2021 03:22
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Getting Real Good at tearing down/reassembling the Capra as I troubleshoot the drivetrain a bit. Glad I built it tbh as I have a much better understand than I would have just looking at the exploded diagrams. Can’t wait for the bullet connectors to come so I don’t have to unsolder/solder the motor so much. Believe I have it all set (it was whining loud under load at full speed), and it was just fine tuning the gear mesh. I did wind up trimming back a little of the transmission cover as there was some weirdness in there as well. Anyhow the point is I’m sure this is all old news for everyone else here but this thing is fully sick and a ton of fun. My two sons and I are all fighting each other for the controls and we are all in awe about how capable it is. This is with no clue what we are doing beyond me watching some videos of people taking various obstacle courses. As someone who has dealt with garbage tier products in the past as well, I really appreciate the design and materials of the kit. I’m sure there’s better out there but I expected a lot worse tbh, pleasantly surprised at a lot of this. My plan is to get the other kid a Senton or Granite so we will all have a thing to chuck around as well as the crawler. Of course I am also watching videos of that little Orlandoo crawler and oh that would be fun to drive around during work calls. Also, I like the idea of a faster baja looking truck oh they don’t make the Rock Rey anymore, wait what’s a Super Rock Rey? This is going to get out of hand fast... edit: as I typed this I went to check on how school is going for the older one (full remote school right now) and find him in the driveway doing donuts on the ice patches when he’s supposed to be doing math uwaeve fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 16:15
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I ended up getting a SkyRC B6 AC V2 charger. We'll see if I manage to burn the place down.
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Mar 3, 2021 17:08
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Now that I've moved the closest track to me (only a few minutes away) is really nice but is 1/8th scale only and I'd really like to get into that but it's a huge investment. I'd like to have a 1/8th eBuggy put together by early summer but. ESC/motor seem to be a bit difficult to get. I'm trying to get mine through Tekin since they offer a nice military discount but they've been out of stock for several months now. Anyone else have experience racing 1/8th?
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Mar 3, 2021 19:47
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I never consistently raced 1/8th but I've had a lot of 1/8th cars including e-buggy. You can get a perfectly fine 1/8 esc from hobbyking for like $50-75. Certainly Tekin is higher quality equipment but I've had multiple 1:8 HK and multiple tekins over the years and none of them ever failed so...
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Mar 5, 2021 05:38
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Tires and setup will matter more than the esc. Batteries probably after that.
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Mar 5, 2021 21:10
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Can someone explain in very small words what I might notice as the difference between something like a Losi Lasernut and the Axial Ryft? They seem superficially similar but I'm wondering if the different suspension types, steering setup, skid plate vs. boat bottom designs, and tires are a tradeoff for certain driving tasks. I'm vaguely familiar with the purpose of the full-size version of each. Lasernut is a copy of a U4 FIS race buggy, which appears to need to balance desert racing, somewhat technical crawling (but maybe not as deliberate as true crawlers, idk I saw some video), and some short course type sections, all on a timer. The Ryft is modeled after people that just throw horsepower and violence at hillclimbs, or maybe they like rock crawling but ain't no one got time for that. Are the RC versions similar enough that, for someone new to everything, they would drive similarly? I'm not out to compete or anything but if there are things that will really stand out as being "off limits" for one or the other it would be nice to have a little insight. I would imagine the Ryft might be better set up for bouncing up hills but maybe a little sloppy running around on the flats, and vice versa but I guess I don't know to what extent I'd be shutting down the possibility of going after rock climbs with a little bit of speed with the Lasernut. FWIW I'm sort of leaning towards the Ryft at this point but as you might be able to tell it's not a super well informed opinion. I did see someone put internally-sprung double shocks on the rear of the Ryft to keep it planted running around, that would be something I wouldn't be averse to having to upgrade down the line.
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Mar 6, 2021 00:23
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