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Why tf would you steal a $200 part that needs a noisy as gently caress sawzall when you could just as easily grab wheels and tires for about as much effort?
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Feb 25, 2021 22:20
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| # ? May 31, 2024 17:18 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:1998 Chevy S10. That would be the front leaf spring perch.
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Feb 25, 2021 22:28
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You can make as much noise as you want for about 30 seconds, and you can fit a lot more cats in the trunk of a honda.
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Feb 25, 2021 22:28
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Outrail posted:*Glances outside at ten billion tons of frozen bullshit* Yeah, it certainly sucks in the winter if you HAVE to. If it's fun project car stuff you can do it the other 3 seasons. I never want to bolt a transfer case into a Jeep in 30mph gusting wind, after dark, in single digit temps with my fingers freezing to the castings again, just so I can drive to work the next day.
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Feb 25, 2021 23:28
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God, we ought to start a doom thread about working in the elements. Building a garage, and heating it, was a triumph thirty years in the making. -- changing the starter on my friend's Monte Carlo on the street, up aganst the curb...and it was raining. -- changing torque convertors on an '83 Dodge Ram van in November rain - in my driveway - laying in an inch of water. I bought it with a rebuilt engine. The shop apparently misplaced the original torque converter, and they are balanced to the specific crankshaft. Bought three before I got one that didn't make my eyeballs jiggle at exactly 57 and 71-MPH. On the other hand, once you're soaked through, it's easier to focus on the job at hand. -- Re-ringing a 383 in my '65 Fury - hand-cranking a ridge reamer & hand-honing - with the engine still in the car, in my Mom's small, unheated garage, during a week of snowstorms, with a kerosene heater cranked up full keeping the bottom of my feet warm. At Christmas. The poo poo we do StormDrain posted:Garage Mahal is fantastic. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 00:40
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Brettbot posted:FWIW, I live in a house with no HOA. We don't have a garage, but our driveway is big enough for 4 or 5 cars, and we have a big back yard, so at least that's some space. I figure, since winter is just starting to wind down, I have some time to think about whether I want to store it next winter or just cover it up and wait until spring. If you've got a decent amount of driveway space, and a big yard just build a garage!! Problem solved!! Ir buy on of those Tent garage things. That'll at least keep most of the rain and wind off you if you're working on that car (or any car) in less than ideal weather.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:54
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I pulled my spare engine, trans, and tcase in a yard about 4 feet wider and 6 feet longer than the XJ it was in, in Pennsylvania, in January, in a rainstorm. It was on a few inches of snow over frozen soil when we started and about 6 inches of mud when we finished. The hoist kept sinking into it. Drove from Mass to PA, cut the Jeep apart around it with the owner, hauled the cut up Jeep off, dragged the hoist through the mud as far as the sidewalk and loaded it into my MJ and drove back home again. I should have slept but didn't, I was so tired I hallucinated a bunch on the way home in a snowstorm. Did my first engine and trans swap in a thunderstorm in an abandoned lot by my old apartment, but luckily it was like, May or June and aside from being soaking wet, it went fine, I wasn't too hot or too cold. We are building a garage Mahal at the next house. I'm never working on dirt again, gently caress it.
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Feb 26, 2021 01:00
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kastein posted:We are building a garage Mahal at the next house. I'm never working on dirt again, gently caress it. We've all done our time and are getting too old for this poo poo.
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Feb 26, 2021 01:01
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drat you guys had it rough. Fixing my exhaust in the rain in a Oregon Walmart parking lot is the worst I've had with regards to poor garage conditions.
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Feb 26, 2021 01:05
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Garage Mahal is fantastic.
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Feb 26, 2021 02:45
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Offroad Minivan: broken exhaust stud sidebar This broken exhaust stud has become a giant thorn in my rear end. I bought a map-pro blowtorch. What am I supposed to be doing here, blasting the whole assembly and applying torque while hot? Do I need to differentially heat just the flange, and not the stud? Because that's super hard. The stud naturally gets most of the heat. I'd have to build a heat shield around it if I need to do that. The flange is part of the exhaust manifold, so I really don't want to have to remove it from the car to work on it. Removing the exhaust manifold seems like a huge trap where I trade a snapped stud in a flange for a snapped stud in my engine block. Do I need to put a big fuckoff impact wrench to on it, with the heat, or is it possible visegrips will do? I think the Kermit the Frog stud extractor tool should grip the stud better with the impact than when I used it with a wrench. The impact is $260 which is not that bad, but kinda stupid for removing a single stud. Then again, $260 is pretty cheap if it gets my van running. Fallback strategy after everything else fails is to cut and drill out the stud. I think a through bolt will replace it just fine. There's plenty of access on the back side for a through bolt, but I can't drill it out from that side. Drilling shouldn't be too hard. I bought a cobalt drill bit and I think I can take some of the heat treatment away with the torch.
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Feb 26, 2021 03:45
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Did the stud extractor break off some of the stud? You noted that it spalled down the threads on the stud, and that looks pristine with plenty of meat for a good stud extractor. And yes, you want to heat the flange to expand it slightly, and keep the stud as cool as possible, so it doesn't. Typically you heat the flange cherry if possible, then apply torque to the stud to turn it out.
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Feb 26, 2021 04:57
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Ha ha, that's the before pic. Imagine that stud with the threads swaged smooth, then gnawed on a bit by some big visegrips. The stud extractor has some kind of cam action, so I think an impact wrench will make it bite harder. On the Project Farm video, the cams bit into the stud pretty deep, but I think he was using grade 5 bolts, not high grade studs. Would I have been saved from all of this if I had used a big impact wrench on the exhaust nuts from the start? Is that more likely to remove / less likely to snap studs than a breaker bar?
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Feb 26, 2021 05:03
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With your luck, an impact driver would probably have snapped it off flush. You may have to pull the manifold to get to it; it's a pretty tight location. Or, cut it off, drill it out & use one of these: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 05:13
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No, I will not remove the exhaust manifold. It's held to the head with 6 studs, all probably in worse shape than this exhaust stud. Removing the manifold sounds like a recipe to get in way more trouble. I will do this before I take off the manifold: 
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Feb 26, 2021 05:27
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I’ve had good luck with heating the part, then using a penetrating oil while hot. Or I feel better when I do it anyway. Smells good!
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Feb 26, 2021 05:30
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glyph posted:A little late on this, but some drive by wire cars can lose their throttle adaptations. Most of them, if you turn the key to ON (click, click) and don't start the car, the throttle actuator motors will whir along to sweep the butterfly open and closed to find the mechanical limits. You should be able to hear it from the driver's seat. Yeah. Some posts I found suggested waiting 30 seconds to a minute. Still no dice. The USB OBD2 adapter I bought was garbage because I was too cheap, got another one arriving tomorrow. Hopefully that one will actually facilitate communication between Forscan and my car. For what it's worth, after about 15 seconds the CEL flashes 8 times then goes back to staying on.
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Feb 26, 2021 06:51
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In my car, a flashing CEL means you're destroying your engine or catalytic converter by not shutting it off immediately. But flashing exactly 8 times sounds more like an error code.
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Feb 26, 2021 07:31
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*raises hand* l have a stupid question! I don’t know much about cars at all. My wife broke my car. 2012 explorer limited. She was minding her own business turning left and wouldn’t you know it - the negligent city went and left a median just laying in the middle of the street. I don’t know what they were thinking. She drove up onto it and the good news is that she only broke a tie rod and killed a (20”) rim. (Edit: oh yeah, and a fog light) I already planned on getting new tires anyway in March and the tie rod replacement is under $200. So that leaves me with the wheel. I was able to figure out that the part # BB5Z-1007-B at least I think. It seems that most of the retailers sell nebulously worded maybe-oem rims. eBay seems slightly shady. Is there really a difference between this bastard and this other bastard?
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Feb 26, 2021 07:34
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otter posted:*raises hand* l have a stupid question! I don’t know much about cars at all. The ebay wheel seems like a gamble, IMO. I don't have any direct experience with this though, but I can't imagine the aftermarket replica goes through the same kind of testing.
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Feb 26, 2021 07:44
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There are other listings that claim to be “remanufactured to meet or exceed sae and astm wheel testing standards” for near the same price. If it’s probable that I’d ever notice a difference from the $400 one while saving $200 I’d be happy. Hopefully someone can weigh in that has been down the road.
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Feb 26, 2021 08:08
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StormDrain posted:Garage Mahal is fantastic. I'll be honest, I stole it from someone else. The phrase, not the garage, much to my disappointment. For that exhaust stud, worst case, yeah drill through it and through bolt. It's going to be loving miserable to drill because... Yay it's hardened. So keep giving it hell first with everything else. Ideally heat the flange only but honestly it's hard to do and with map-pro unlikely that you'll get enough heat into it fast enough to differentially heat it anyways, that's the territory of welders and oxyacetylene. Ideally already have the vise grips clamped onto it as tightly as you can get them before you even start with the torch. The more time you have between the heat source going away and the torque being applied the less effective it is, generally. Me, I would weld a nut on, snap the nut and part of the stud off, repeat until it's too short, stack weld on it and try again, then stack weld and try again but after oxyacetylene torching the flange a bit, then it might actually come out, or it might break off again and I'd grind the end nice and flat, center punch it, and use a decent just-sharpened or brand new drill bit in my air drill to punch a hole in the center, then use progressively larger drills until it either spins out or I get to the threads. You might be able to extract the remainder at that point or you might not, it's luck of the draw. At that point you can decide if you're going to run a tap through it to clean the threads, ram a new bolt in and forget all about it, or through drill it and run a cheap lovely bolt so if you ever have to gently caress with it again it'll snap off easier this time, now that it's a through bolt and snapping off means your life got easier not harder. I'll take "I gave it a quarter turn and it snapped, guess I'm buying another" over fighting rusty nuts off of grade 8 bolts over an inch of crusty threads only to have to buy a new one anyways.
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Feb 26, 2021 08:12
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Is the bolt hole threaded? If not can you angle drind the back head off and smack it with a punch? I may be misunderstanding the situation.
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Feb 26, 2021 08:40
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It doesn't have a head. The flange is threaded, and the stud is screwed in and rusted. Not extreme rust, but "it an exhaust" type rust.
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Feb 26, 2021 08:42
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StormDrain posted:Garage Mahal is fantastic. Carthedral.  Dr.Smasher posted:For what it's worth, after about 15 seconds the CEL flashes 8 times then goes back to staying on. I know on my 7th gen accord the CEL flashes 5 times on startup if the emissions aren't ready. I.e. if the codes have been recently cleared. This was super helpful to know when I was looking to replace my old one like for like. There's most likely something to the fact there are 8. kastein posted:So keep giving it hell first with everything else. Ideally heat the flange only but honestly it's hard to do and with map-pro unlikely that you'll get enough heat into it fast enough to differentially heat it anyways, that's the territory of welders and oxyacetylene. I've had decent luck with a few heat and quench cycles with a benzomatic. A windex style spray bottle won't do- you need something more like a bicycle bidon to get enough water to quench fast enough. Huh, I wonder if you could make something like aluminum soft jaws for vice grips that could work as a heat sink to help create a differential in temperatures. glyph fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 16:52
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otter posted:*raises hand* l have a stupid question! I don’t know much about cars at all. You can also try car-part.com (it’s a pick and pull aggregator ) if used oem is acceptable.
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Feb 26, 2021 17:10
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Barely automotive related - more garage related. My garage door slides off to one side when closing. I've managed to get it to at least get mostly closed by adjusting the close trigger on the opener, but when it opens, the door slides so far off to the side that I'm worried it's going to fall off of the rollers. When it closes, it closes with one side a few inches off too. I've somewhat corrected that via the door opener, but...  The typical above-door spring is long gone (plenty of broken bolts in the wall), replaced by two springs (one on each side of the door) and pulleys. Pretty drat sure this isn't the type of door this stuff is meant for (it's a sectional steel door). Cowslips Warren posted:99 Honda Accord. My catalytic converter got loving jacked yesterday. Pepboys quoted me about $900 to fix everything, then found the entire thing was jacked, and the thieves broke some pipes around it. So now we at $1500. Are you in California? If not, go find a random exhaust shop in the bad part of town, have them fix it. Should be half the price, if not less. Make sure to mention you don't care how it looks, you just want a working cat in there. There's not much you can do to prevent it happening again, except keeping comprehensive on your car with a low deductible. Some companies make "cages" for the cat, but they cost a shitload.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:02
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its gonna be that cheap because those guys are buying the stolen cats, for the record
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Feb 26, 2021 18:33
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STR posted:Barely automotive related - more garage related. Mine would do that and the guy my landlord hired basically had to redo all the tracks because nothing was straight and rehang the opener because it too high and pushing at an angle relative to the direction of the door travel.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:33
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STR posted:Barely automotive related - more garage related. Track misalignment or mismatched springs. If the springs aren't pulling with the same force, it's going to kick to the side like that. Also if they don't have identical setups they'll pull to one side. There's some adjustments you can make, but you'll probably have to rip it out and start over to make it right.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:38
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I’m in Houston and just bought a new Mazda3 (in beautiful Soul Red), which immediately got covered in road salt from last week’s freak snowfall. I have zero experience with salt, do I need to get it off my paint like immediately? If handwashing isn’t an option, should I run it through a “soft touch” car wash?
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Feb 26, 2021 18:41
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Bouillon Rube posted:I’m in Houston and just bought a new Mazda3 (in beautiful Soul Red), which immediately got covered in road salt from last week’s freak snowfall. The paint will be fine. The undercarriage is what will rot out, but one exposure isn't going to make any difference. Hand washing the top side won't clean off the salt underneath. Run it though a car wash and you'll be fine.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:43
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So an auto car was isn’t going to gently caress up my paint? I ended up with a ton of scratches on my last car (though it was black)
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Feb 26, 2021 18:51
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Bouillon Rube posted:So an auto car was isn’t going to gently caress up my paint? I ended up with a ton of scratches on my last car (though it was black) Use whatever you feel comfortable with. My point was that hand washing the painted surfaces wouldn't help the undercarriage. A car wash will generally take car of that. The specific brand is up to you.
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Feb 26, 2021 18:56
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Touchless is the way to go for a rinse off that won't hurt paint.
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Feb 26, 2021 19:20
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Bouillon Rube posted:I’m in Houston and just bought a new Mazda3 (in beautiful Soul Red), which immediately got covered in road salt from last week’s freak snowfall. Do you have a coin-operated car wash with spray wands? Then take your 19-quarters and hose everything you can reach. Don't bother with the soap brush. Set it on Rinse and blast away.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:14
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Wouldn't that leave water spots all over the car?
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Feb 26, 2021 21:22
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Bouillon Rube posted:Wouldn't that leave water spots all over the car? What's your goal? Perfect concourse finish, or knock the salt off until the weather warms up? If your city spread salt, you're going to be picking it up for a month or two at least. Just spray the car off, top and bottom, every couple of weeks, until the salt is gone from the roadway.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:28
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Most likely, but water spots won’t rust your car. Since we’re talking about mostly the bottom of the car, 
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Feb 26, 2021 21:28
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| # ? May 31, 2024 17:18 |
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Bouillon Rube posted:Wouldn't that leave water spots all over the car? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:its gonna be that cheap because those guys are buying the stolen cats, for the record melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 22:27
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