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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Been pulling my old DFGT out of the closest with increasing frequency lately and am starting to get the itch to upgrade my racing gear to match the quality of my flight sim gear. Some games will handle a different wheel and pedals but some won't, so I would try to get a matched pair of pedals and wheel. Some people start with a Thrustmaster or Logitech but if you already have a DFGT I would go to Fanatec CSL next yeah.
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Feb 28, 2021 19:29
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Zaphod42 posted:Some games will handle a different wheel and pedals but some won't, so I would try to get a matched pair of pedals and wheel. Yeah I was worried about compatibility. Hopefully Fanatec releases their new quick release design soon. I’m reluctant to buy a wheel from them until then.
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Feb 28, 2021 19:47
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Yeah I was worried about compatibility. Hopefully Fanatec releases their new quick release design soon. I’m reluctant to buy a wheel from them until then. For what it's worth, I have mismatched wheel/pedals (G27 wheel, Clubsport V3 pedals), and I've had no issues with any of the major titles handling them. Anything made/updated within the last decade or so should have no problem with multiple devices. iRacing, Assetto Corsa, Project CARS, RaceRoom, Dirt, Live For Speed, etc. If it's a game commonly posted about in this thread, then it'll work with mismatched hardware, no sweat. Edit: I wasn't considering the Grid/Forza genre of sim-lite racers, so you'd wanna look into those. Sorry! If you do happen to play some older sims, like 90s/early 2000s stuff that hasn't been kept up to date, then you may have issues with separate devices, but you can get around that with vJoy. It's easy enough to configure. But again, that's only an issue with old niche titles. Even Live For Speed and iRacing, both of which have engines dating back decades, support multiple devices. As for pedals, the only ones I've used are the Logitech G27 (with GT Eye springs) and the Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals, and the V3s were a massive upgrade in feel, especially the brake pedal (I got the additional kit with more stiffness adjustments). The adjustable position of the pedals is also nice, as you can move the brake closer to the gas if you do heel-toe, or move it closer to the clutch for comfort if you don't heel-toe. I did have to bolt it to my frame, but that's only annoying because I also do flight sims, so I gotta unbolt it to change genres. As a bonus, the gas and brake have little rumble motors that you can use with the various telemetry-reading software out there. I use SimHub to make the rumble motors on the brakes and gas react to lock and slip, respectively, which is a nice little way to "feel" what the car is doing. Or you can use them for playful immersive stuff, like rumbling to the engine RPMs, kerbs, etc. Whether CSL or ClubV3, you're looking at a huge improvement from the DFGT pedals. And yes, I'd definitely suggest pedals as a first upgrade over a wheel. Nicer pedals have a much larger effect on your driving than a nicer wheel. Shine fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Feb 28, 2021 |
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Feb 28, 2021 23:30
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Been pulling my old DFGT out of the closest with increasing frequency lately and am starting to get the itch to upgrade my racing gear to match the quality of my flight sim gear. Don't get pedals alone, especially the fanatec ones. I went this path and ran into so many capability issues. Upgrade once you're ready to get a complete Fanatec set.
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Feb 28, 2021 23:35
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Shine posted:For what it's worth, I have mismatched wheel/pedals (G27 wheel, Clubsport V3 pedals), and I've had no issues with any of the major titles handling them. Anything made/updated within the last decade or so should have no problem with multiple devices. iRacing, Assetto Corsa, Project CARS, RaceRoom, Dirt, Live For Speed, etc. If it's a game commonly posted about in this thread, then it'll work with mismatched hardware, no sweat. What about Forza (Motorsport or Horizon) ? I think they're designed with a console mentality so don't handle this well, but I also haven't tried it recently.
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Feb 28, 2021 23:50
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Zaphod42 posted:What about Forza (Motorsport or Horizon) ? I think they're designed with a console mentality so don't handle this well, but I also haven't tried it recently. That's fair; I wasn't considering Forza (I always forget it exists on PC). To amend: the Tryhard Sims For Goons & Boomers are cool with multiple devices.
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Feb 28, 2021 23:54
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I said come in! posted:Don't get pedals alone, especially the fanatec ones. I went this path and ran into so many capability issues. Upgrade once you're ready to get a complete Fanatec set. What capability issues? I've had zero problem with running my V2s with both Fanatec and non-Fanatec wheels, they appear as a fully separate device in both cases.
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Mar 1, 2021 00:29
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Some (very few) games don't like separate wheel.and pedal devices. I've used t3pa pros with usb adapter and whatever wheel and can't think of a game that had issues... Maybe like nascar heat 2?
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Mar 1, 2021 00:54
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I cannot wait for the ACC series x update and donington park!!!!!!
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Mar 1, 2021 01:09
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tater_salad posted:Some (very few) games don't like separate wheel.and pedal devices. It is extremely few at this point, I think. I haven't run into it on anything I've tried and I have a Simucube 2 with either Ascher or Turn wheel button boxes, Heusinkveld Sprint pedals, a DSD button box on the side, and then Thrustmaster sparco handbrake/shifters. Everything is basically mismatched and it works fine in everything, even if it is odd to set up initially in some stuff (WRC9 for example, had to do Keyboard mode and rebind everything). I'm sure there are some games around that won't work without a "unified" device but they're probably mostly older games at this point. ssb fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 14:25
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shortspecialbus posted:It is extremely few at this point, I think. I haven't run into it on anything I've tried and I have a Simucube 2 and Heusinkveld Sprint pedals, and then Thrustmaster sparco handbrake/shifters. Everything is basically mismatched and it works fine in everything, even if it is odd to set up initially in some stuff (WRC9 for example, had to do Keyboard mode and rebind everything). Yeah most of it is older games.. so many simmers are using a mixnmatch of devices (shifter, e-brake, pedals, wheel)
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Mar 1, 2021 14:41
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I’d say go ahead and mix’n’match. I’m running Fanatec pedals with a thrustmaster T300rs wheel and I have yet to find a game that didn’t like it.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:50
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Vando posted:What capability issues? I've had zero problem with running my V2s with both Fanatec and non-Fanatec wheels, they appear as a fully separate device in both cases. On my end, iRacing was the only sim I was able to get to reliably work with the Fanatec pedals, and a Logitech DFGT. All setups are different and all that, etc. etc. but it was what pushed me to buy a a Fanatec wheel and so it all worked out anyways, I am extremely happy with my Fanatec wheel and pedals.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:56
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Would you guys recommend the CSW over the CSL Elite, or is direct drive worth saving up for?
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Mar 1, 2021 19:02
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Would you guys recommend the CSW over the CSL Elite, or is direct drive worth saving up for? I went from a Thrustmaster TS-XW to a Simucube 2. I like it considerably better, and I can somewhat catch slides a little bit better with the direct drive, but my lap times did not really improve as a direct result of changing to direct drive. edit: I don't know Fanatec gear at all so I can't speak to those two specifically.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:08
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Pedalchat: I have the CSL elites with the load cell brake, and I’m extremely indifferent to them. They’re an upgrade to basically any of the entry level pedal sets, but the design of the LC pedal means that registered pedal pressure varies depending on precisely where you press on the pedal. Which is REAL DUMB AND BAD for obvious reasons. Skip the CSLs and get the V3s.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:11
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I'll amend what I said for pedals to say that Load Cell on the brake pedal DOES make you faster than not having load cell. I added the Ricmotech load cell mod to my T3PA-Pros before I got the heusinkveld sprints and my braking got worlds better instantly, especially threshold and trail braking. Re: ^^^^ with the fanatec pedal design, that sounds super weird.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:14
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Would you guys recommend the CSW over the CSL Elite, or is direct drive worth saving up for? The CSW is the best you can get from a belt driven wheel. If you don't want to splurge on a direct drive wheel, CSW is the top of the line.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:22
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Cojawfee posted:The CSW is the best you can get from a belt driven wheel. If you don't want to splurge on a direct drive wheel, CSW is the top of the line. I will tell you that any upgrade from Gears is good. It will most likely not make you faster when you are driving, but know when it does help.. when you fuckup. With my G920 once I started sliding it was too late, in with my CSL (and T300 when I owned one) I could tell when was sliding earlier, and catch it better. I've been told that direct drive makes this even better. The main issue With DD is it's 1500+ dollars for DD+wheels so you start getting out of "hobby prices" in my opinion. I'm currently debating.. Get the mclaren wheel (or wait for esports one to come out in not a kit), or save up for some V3 pedals. I mostly oval race and typically dip in and out of iracing.. if I have a bad week as it's time to renew I usually sit out a few weeks, so I may sit it out for a little bit. With summer coming up there will be less sit insidey activities. and more get my rear end on a bike and ride a ton tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 19:44
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Will probably go with the V3s and CSW, but am super tempted by the DD1 and Simucube 2 bases. Really just depends on if I'm willing to build an entire rig, or stick with table mounts. Thanks for the responses.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:49
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Would you guys recommend the CSW over the CSL Elite, or is direct drive worth saving up for? I spent last night mulling this over before saying "gently caress it" and ordering an AccuForce V2 instead of a CSW.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:53
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Shine posted:I spent last night mulling this over before saying "gently caress it" and ordering an AccuForce V2 instead of a CSW. Nice man, let us know what you think.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:55
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Will probably go with the V3s and CSW, but am super tempted by the DD1 and Simucube 2 bases. Really just depends on if I'm willing to build an entire rig, or stick with table mounts. A DD wheel requires a solid mounting (basically a rig), which a table will probably not provide, even with elaborate clamping. Also, it doesn't make you faster, it just gives you a higher quality tool to learn the craft. I went g27 -> t300 -> Fanatec dd1 and only started getting better with the dd1 when I learned to drive race cars. The feedback sure is better, more detailed, but if you don't know what it communicates, you will still not improve.
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Mar 1, 2021 20:10
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Schorsch posted:A DD wheel requires a solid mounting (basically a rig), which a table will probably not provide, even with elaborate clamping. Agreed. I tried temporarily clamping my new Simucube 2 on something just for testing purposes and it did not work remotely well. It needs to be bolted to something stable, as will any DD.
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Mar 1, 2021 20:25
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shortspecialbus posted:Agreed. I tried temporarily clamping my new Simucube 2 on something just for testing purposes and it did not work remotely well. It needs to be bolted to something stable, as will any DD. And you'll also want to make sure you have somewhere to mount the foot/knee kill switch in case your arm somehow ends up broken in the wheel and you need to stop everything. I can't imagine that being possible with a desk mount.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:12
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MrYenko posted:Pedalchat: I have the CSL elites with the load cell brake, and I’m extremely indifferent to them. They’re an upgrade to basically any of the entry level pedal sets, but the design of the LC pedal means that registered pedal pressure varies depending on precisely where you press on the pedal. Which is REAL DUMB AND BAD for obvious reasons.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:16
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Bentai posted:As long as you're keeping your foot in roughly the same position on brakes, you should rarely run into any variation to the pressure registered. Yeah I haven't noticed anything on my CSL LCs.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:21
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Bentai posted:As long as you're keeping your foot in roughly the same position on brakes, you should rarely run into any variation to the pressure registered. Ya, this is how I discovered that I move my feet a lot when I drive. That said this is a really dumb limitation, even for the price point. It would be trivial to mount the load cell in a manner where this isn’t a concern. It also essentially precludes you from invert mounting them, which was my original intent.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:24
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Yeah I move my feet a lot it seems. The other issue is I tend to hit the brake at first with my toes and then roll off with the ball or the side of my foot and that changes how it drops away quite a bit and it affects my trail braking. I'll probably eventually save up for V3s
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Mar 2, 2021 06:55
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:Nice man, let us know what you think. I will once it gets here! in two months 
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Mar 2, 2021 07:15
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VelociBacon posted:And you'll also want to make sure you have somewhere to mount the foot/knee kill switch in case your arm somehow ends up broken in the wheel and you need to stop everything. I can't imagine that being possible with a desk mount. Definitely. Mine is down by the clutch, can just kick it in an emergency. Too many people mount it next to the wheel, or in some cases even behind the wheel somewhat - how are you going to hit that in an emergency?
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Mar 2, 2021 13:55
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Motorsport might have a bit too much money right now because while it probably wasn't that expensive they've bought out the rFactor 2 devs. I expect the reason for that is almost entirely down to 397 having the Formula E license. So that's now the Nascar Heat devs, their own internal studio of former Codemasters guys making the BTCC game, the Kartkraft devs and now rFactor 2 all absorbed into the same company. https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/motorsport-games%E2%80%99-spending-spree-continues-with-the-acquisition-of-studio397.199402/
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Mar 4, 2021 19:08
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njsykora posted:Motorsport might have a bit too much money right now because while it probably wasn't that expensive they've bought out the rFactor 2 devs. I expect the reason for that is almost entirely down to 397 having the Formula E license. So that's now the Nascar Heat devs, their own internal studio of former Codemasters guys making the BTCC game, the Kartkraft devs and now rFactor 2 all absorbed into the same company. They saw EA buy Codemasters and said, “hold my sippy cup”. But seriously, they now have an awesome physics engine so hopefully a top rate NASCAR game can come out of this that I don’t have to pay whatever iRacing is charging a month these days.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:21
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I heavily doubt rF2's engine is going to get used in any of their other games given the whole push of that company is mainstream accessibility. They already did a lot of expectation management around the BTCC game in that regard.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:26
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They bought the platform they want to run their LM24 licensed event on, that's all.
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Mar 4, 2021 20:44
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Oh right, I forgot they were running that thing.
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Mar 4, 2021 20:46
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njsykora posted:Motorsport might have a bit too much money right now because while it probably wasn't that expensive they've bought out the rFactor 2 devs. I expect the reason for that is almost entirely down to 397 having the Formula E license. I would love to see a Formula E game on XBox. I know I am alone.
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Mar 5, 2021 20:24
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I know this is quite a long shot, but maybe some of you have heard of this or have some idea on how to fix this. The problem I'm having seems to be DIRT Rally 2.0 specific. I've recently dug out my old Fanatec CSR Elite + Logitech pedals combo to try racing in VR. Besides it being glorious and working perfectly fine for hours with titles like LFS and AC, DIRT Rally 2.0 has a very strange issue. Randomly, sometimes after a few stages, sometimes within one stage, DR will cause the wheel driver to crash. When it happens the game will obviously lose all input, and the wheel will continue to apply whatever commands were last sent to it (sometimes nothing when you're lucky, most of the time some constant force feedback to one side). The game immediately exits once I turn off the wheel. If I don't turn off the wheel, I can't see it anymore in the device control panel. A small app I wrote that accesses the wheel's USB/HID and usually reports "Fanatec CSR Wheel" as its name will at that point instead show garbage data, usually represented as random Chinese characters. Either way, that thing is completely FUBAR until I restart/reconnect it. I've tried installing older Fanatec drivers, newer drivers that are technically beyond the latest supported version for that wheel, and reinstalling the current ones - nothing made a difference. The wheel itself runs on the newest available firmware version. I've also tried disabling the Steam overlay, validating the game files, running DR in various Windows compatibility modes... no dice. At this point I'm kinda out of ideas on what to try 
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Mar 10, 2021 22:02
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Try a different USB port maybe?
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Mar 10, 2021 22:09
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Zaphod42 posted:Try a different USB port maybe? Oh yeah, forgot I already did that, too. Thought it might be incompatibility with a 3.0 one, so I switched to a 2.0 one. No change.
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Mar 10, 2021 22:53
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