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uwaeve posted:Can someone explain in very small words what I might notice as the difference between something like a Losi Lasernut and the Axial Ryft? They seem superficially similar but I'm wondering if the different suspension types, steering setup, skid plate vs. boat bottom designs, and tires are a tradeoff for certain driving tasks. I'm vaguely familiar with the purpose of the full-size version of each. Lasernut is a copy of a U4 FIS race buggy, which appears to need to balance desert racing, somewhat technical crawling (but maybe not as deliberate as true crawlers, idk I saw some video), and some short course type sections, all on a timer. The Ryft is modeled after people that just throw horsepower and violence at hillclimbs, or maybe they like rock crawling but ain't no one got time for that. They aren't going to be too dissimilar. Get which one you think looks cooler. Unless you're going to be buying a vehicle to race in a specific class, I think that's the best advice.
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Mar 6, 2021 15:13
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The huge difference is one is a solid axle and the other is independent suspension. They drive vastly different. The independent suspension will jump a lot smoother and handle better. The Ryft is cool because an overpowered giant tired machine which will be generally violent. I saw one in person this week (before official release). It’s very cool and to me more appealing than the RR10. The Ryft is for hucking up a rocky hill and bouncing. The lasernut is for blasting through the desert and sweet jumps. I’m in the middle of painting my Sand Scorcher now. First hard body I’ve ever painted and I’m definitely overthinking a lot. It’s like playing a video game on hard mode here. So far it’s going well, I’m taking time and sanding between coats. I have high hopes it’ll turn out like I’m envisioning. Body prep takes a ton of time.
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Mar 7, 2021 04:07
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I do rock bouncer racing. They're built to sprint up hills and don't handle especially well on flat ground. I imagine an RTR rock bouncer is probably gonna shoot more towards accessibility and be a little easier. But you probably want the RR10 if you wanna go tear around a dirt lot + some rough hills.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:31
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uwaeve posted:Alright I'm in the middle of my fourth read-through of the last 2 years' worth of posts so I still have some learning to do but a couple quick questions pop into my mind as I'm narrowing down stuff for my kids, who are turning 10 and 8 this year. 10-year old first, and from watching stuff online he seems equally enthusiastic about rock crawling type stuff as he does about bashing around, but he does have a really big preference for building vs. RTR. I think that preference would even override vehicle type, so I'm really trying to search for buildable kits. He seems enthusiastic about monster truck or short course type, and that matches what we have around for him to break it on. Pretty convinced we want 4WD, and just to limit the research I have looked primarily at Traxxas (Slash or Stampede) and ARRMA (Senton and whatever the lower-end truck is, not the Kraton), but the buildable kits are limited.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:13
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Thanks for the responses everyone, I will take it all under advisement. The goal has sort of been to get a small assortment of vehicles, two to start with and maybe a third+ if we get hooked. So we ordered and built a Capra crawler and we have an Arrma brushed Granite monster truck on the way to bash around. That takes care of the two kids and shields the Capra from being abused too much. Even though my oldest agreed that he wanted a crawler at the expense of being able to rip around and bash it to hell, I can tell he was gonna “cross train” the Capra if we didn’t get something else. He already snapped the rear axle housing and bent the axle, sort of my fault. Either way, $30 all told but a part is back ordered for a month. Hopefully the RTR granite shows up and they can share for a couple weeks. I’m still on the fence about getting something for myself, I’m all over the map regarding what I think I want but honestly with a crawler and “medium speed” monster truck I feel like there’s time to research. Hence the lasernut/ryft question. Maybe I should hold off on the Ryft, didn’t realize it was brand new. Let people work out the kinks maybe. I’m mad the Rock Rey doesn’t exist anymore and don’t know that I’m Super Rock Rey material. Now that I’ve taken the Capra apart a bunch I am gonna try to make it a bit modular by connectorizing some of the stuff. Bullet connectors for the motor leads, probably cut the servo line to put a connector in, those two will make it so that I can separate the body from chassis at least. I’m looking for whether there’s a standard 4-pin connector shell to lengthen the power button from the Hobbywing 1080, but all I see are servo kits with three wires/3-pin connectors. I assume I’m just gonna find a 4 pin JST shell somewhere, it just doesn’t seem obvious on the rc megasites. Also considering pulling the 1080 apart to see the solder connections inside, I could use another inch of battery lead and maybe I can get to the power button joint to just make a longer lead rather than try an extension. I have no idea how to do wire management, and currently can’t really find a place for the power button that I could reach with the driver Lexan panel in the Capra. I sure picked a fiddly small body for my first car. Seems like this would be easier with a big body layout but I’m learning as I go here.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:41
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Does anyone know of a good kit of battery connectors? I went to HobbyTown and they didn't have anything. I just had to buy 4 packs of things to get what I was after.. when if I just had a box full of random connectors I'd be able to clean poo poo up. I looked around GetFPV with no luck. I got my little FPV Crawler set up and working. Right now I'm using a seperate 1s battery to power the camera. I bought the BEC suggested up thread but I still need to make a Y connector. Also, do the connector ends need to be soldered? I'm used to making my own ethernet cables. Do they crimp like that? I'll get a DVR video tomorrow of it in action to share! Ended up with : Axial SCX24 C10 + Skyzone Cobra S + Wolfwhoop WT03 camera. Waiting on some Foxeer Lollipop 2.5dBi antenna to get a better signal. But I'm quite excited.
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Mar 9, 2021 07:51
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I totally forgot that this thread existed! I've got my RC10 that I've had since I was a kid that I dug out last year to mess around with. It started simple since I just wanted to get some batteries and get it going again to mess around and of course it snowballed. First digging it out. It was a mess    Cleaning it up   I have a Futaba pistol grip that I lost the battery holder and door for which is one of the reasons I put it away. Found both for around $10 which one I was surprised was available new and two that it was so cheap.  Then I got 2 nimh batteries but found out my old quick charger was no good for them so I got the right charger for them as well.  While searching around I also found some kick-rear end model Hella light bar to put on as well.   New batteries and ESC/receiver wiring all done with new connectors that I now forget the name of but they are great. Small and good positive connections that never get warm so they carry current well.    Some finished hard parking articulation pics. Hella wiring not done yet here     So I've been driving it around some and it's ok but it's slow and I just smoked the windings in the Green Machine the other day. Replaced it with a Slot Machine that I had and it still sucks no matter what I do with the gearing so I broke down and ordered a brushless motor and ESC combo, some replacement ball cups since I snapped one doing sick jumps in the cold the other day, new wheels and tires and some body clips since I had none.   Should be a lot more fun with the new motor and really fun replacing all the weak links I find with it.
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Mar 9, 2021 08:08
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deong posted:
Oh also, this cam/vtx gets hot as gently caress. I've googled for a heatsink, but didn't see anything right off. Any suggestions for chilling it out?
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Mar 9, 2021 08:40
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shy boy from chess club posted:I totally forgot that this thread existed! I've got my RC10 that I've had since I was a kid that I dug out last year to mess around with. It started simple since I just wanted to get some batteries and get it going again to mess around and of course it snowballed. This rules! I have an incredible fondness for classic buggies, my uncle had one when I was a kid and the smell of the tires when he first ripped it will forever be stuck in my memory 
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Mar 9, 2021 08:54
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I'm really glad I never got rid of it when I downsized when I moved. I love the style and the upgrades you can get nowadays along with having the money to get them is so much fun. I've got more plans for it as the old parts fail so it will be a ripper when I'm done. A new radio is coming with 3 channels so I can do the lights remotely which as a kid I would have thought was the most amazing thing ever, still kinda do, hah. The best is watching the suspension work while the body just floats over rough terrain. I've got to get some video and eventually on board video since that's cheap and easy now too.
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Mar 9, 2021 09:17
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deong posted:Oh also, this cam/vtx gets hot as gently caress. I've googled for a heatsink, but didn't see anything right off. Any suggestions for chilling it out?
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Mar 9, 2021 10:17
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deong posted:Right now I'm using a seperate 1s battery to power the camera. I bought the BEC suggested up thread but I still need to make a Y connector. Depends on the connector type. I would expect JST and Tamiya connectors to crimp on but those can't handle much current. Every high current connector I've ever seen - Dean's/T, XT60, 4mm bullet - has been a solder-on connection. Shy boy: that is extremely my poo poo, I have my dad's gold tub RC10 in storage, and a slightly upmarket version of that transmitter.
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Mar 9, 2021 15:07
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What up fellas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WPoNJP6S9w Here is it driving in the open/house. I'm beyond excited to dick with this.
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Mar 9, 2021 16:32
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Oh yea Deans connectors are the ones I use now. They are fantastic and it looks like the new ESC already has them so that's a good sign. My parts are supposed to be here Sunday so more RC10 content is coming. I'm really looking forward to the motor, it's going to be like going from a malaise 305 to at least an early LS1. It'll be nice to finally have matching wheels too, it's only been 25 years or so.IOwnCalculus posted:Shy boy: that is extremely my poo poo, I have my dad's gold tub RC10 in storage, and a slightly upmarket version of that transmitter. Any plans to mess with it?
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Mar 9, 2021 21:06
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deong posted:What up fellas. Not gonna lie, this makes me want to get some sort of FPV setup for my SCX10  Speaking of! The weather has been really nice lately, which gave me an excuse to go to my favorite nature trail and play around in the creek.         I genuinely cannot wait to get a new body and some aftermarket bumpers and lights for this thing
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Mar 9, 2021 21:28
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That's a drat good looking truck, and pictures
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Mar 9, 2021 21:46
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shy boy from chess club posted:
Love it. Please keep posting about it. So good to see vintage hardware getting a new lease on life.
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Mar 9, 2021 22:10
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T1g4h posted:Not gonna lie, this makes me want to get some sort of FPV setup for my SCX10 Its rad as hell and a hoot to play with. A buddy has printed a camera tray for me. Once I got that, I'll be able to swap from the SCX24 -> Losi mini T easily. I think for the FPV setup I'm about $200 in. Could have gone with EV800D for about 70 less I'd guess. Everyone should do this.
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Mar 9, 2021 23:08
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cursedshitbox posted:Love it. Please keep posting about it. So good to see vintage hardware getting a new lease on life. Thanks! With all the cool stuff they make now this will be a never done project. That and with the added power I'll have to upgrade the trans and they do make them with metal inner and outer parts. I've always wanted CV joints as well so I have to see what it takes to convert it to those. Plus better shock towers, ball bearing everything and titanium tie rods and....
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Mar 10, 2021 01:06
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shy boy from chess club posted:Any plans to mess with it? I should, I doubt it's had running gear in it in 20+ years. The offroad racing scene here has been hit and miss (not that I'd be out at an RC race during a pandemic anyway) but the new place I'm buying has enough room to maybe gently caress around some with the RC10 / XX buggies / SC10. Either that or I'll finally start shoveling money into the hole labeled "RC crawler".
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Mar 10, 2021 21:59
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Beautiful weather around here as well. I got a chance to take the Sendero out for some fun. About the funnest crawling spot I've found. It's in a local park, nice big washout complex to crawl around on.  A nice view from the top.  Washing the tires. I put new tires and wheels on here, and it's so much more capable. They're Prolines on some Gmade steel beadlock wheels. Nice and heavy, which helped fix the major weakness of the Sendero that it's very light down low. I'm annoyed with my lights though, I had them just plugged into a servo extension but it made removing the body somewhat annoying. I ran across some nifty product in Amazon though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z4QWW2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A magnetic electrical connection that fits over a pair of your body mount posts. It's pretty nifty, it gives you a magnetic body hold-down (I installed it under the truck bed) and it's ridiculously strong. The only problem is it doesn't seem to actually do what it's supposed to do. My lights don't work, and since you'd have to troubleshoot it with the body on, I haven't gotten around to working out a way to stick some multimeter probes in there to find out where the power goes bye bye. I also think the item description is a lie, as it mentions 2 signal lines that you can hook up. But just looking at the board it wires the springy connectors to - + + -. Not that I really care as I didn't need them, but maybe there's some issue there. It's not like it comes with even a piece of paper set of instructions.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:14
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If you can get it to work that magnetic thing is genius. I'm definitely putting it on the list for mine since yea unplugging the lights every time I take the body off is not a big deal but annoying.
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Mar 13, 2021 04:11
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Just now getting back into the hobby, been about 15 years now, dad and brothers used to have the whole stable of associated. Electric buggy and truck, the GT truck and (my) tc3 that I must put $500 bucks into. So I’m just dipping my toe back into R/Cs. Every associated was sold out so I folded and got a Traxxas. I got a 6k plot of land up in the mountains so a cheapy stampede 4x4 seems perfect for just bashing around. Any tips for a cheapy basher?
a sexual elk fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Mar 13, 2021 |
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Mar 13, 2021 08:21
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Just a teaser pic for now. I just threw it together and played for a minute but oh man, what an upgrade! I'll probably play a lot more tomorrow though I also just picked up a Commodore 64 and 1541 that I'm dying to try out so hopefully I have time for both
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Mar 14, 2021 01:48
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Hey, I know that motor and ESC, the GoolRC special. That's the same setup I snagged for my Turbo Scorpion and it propels that thing absurdly and almost uncontrollably fast on 2S. I would suggest testing it at a reduced end point to start with, it'd be a shame to grenade a nice RC10 transmission.
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Mar 15, 2021 01:22
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Enos Shenk posted:Hey, I know that motor and ESC, the GoolRC special. That's the same setup I snagged for my Turbo Scorpion and it propels that thing absurdly and almost uncontrollably fast on 2S. I would suggest testing it at a reduced end point to start with, it'd be a shame to grenade a nice RC10 transmission. Hah yep, I went cheap but not cheapest and I turned it down a lot for that exact reason. They make a metal case transmission I'll get before I turn it up. It's already stupid fast compared to the old setup so I'm not bored yet. It's also way too much for my suspension setup too and crappy servo-saver steering thats sloppy as hell. I'm going to get a metal steering setup as well, they're like $15 with ball bearings. I got to play with it a little bit today but got called into work so no videos or anything yet. I'm definitely stoked about this upgrade though, so glad I did it. It made the car ten times more fun and I also now have reverse which is awesome.
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Mar 15, 2021 02:41
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You probably don't need a metal case for the transmission. Just adjust the slipper appropriately? Probably want to avoid a servo-saver delete. Any modern interpretation of the RC10's dual bellcrank steering is likely to have a sprung cam servo saver.
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Mar 15, 2021 04:25
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kuffs posted:You probably don't need a metal case for the transmission. Just adjust the slipper appropriately? Probably want to avoid a servo-saver delete. Any modern interpretation of the RC10's dual bellcrank steering is likely to have a sprung cam servo saver. I kinda want the case cause it looks cool too and doesn't cost much and also save the original transmission just to have it. The servo saver I have now is terrible. It uses a square in an oval as a spring  So I want to get something different. It gets death wobble at high speeds now.
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Mar 15, 2021 18:28
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Oh yeah, that's an OG RC10 servo saver. I'm sure it's awful. It looks like there were several iterations along the way that I was unaware of. I thought that most of them had arrived at this style though https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-servo-saver-plastic-part-set-rc10b2-3t3-asc9155/p43813. JConcepts has a retro upgrade kit but it doesn't include a servo saver. https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/rc10-aluminum-steering-bellcrank-set It looks nice, but I'd probably avoid it unless I was sure I could avoid the walls. Or if I ran a Kimbrough-style servo saver with it. Your death wobble could be a few things too. If the shocks don't have any oil in them they will bounce without any damping, which can cause a harmonic response. Check for things like loose hinge pins as well. Make sure the bearings in the wheels are good. Make sure the tires are still glued up nicely. If your transmitter has dual rate steering, you might consider turning it down a bit. A fast buggy with a relatively responsive front end probably doesn't need a lot of steering throw.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:58
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The steering just has a ton of slop in it everywhere and I think that's what's causing the death wobble. It's not only stock but original from when I bought it in the early 90s. I'm just going to fix each part in stages. That jconcepts one was that one I was looking at but the plastic one looks like a decent upgrade from the og one. I might just try both. Right now I just rip around my yard with no walls so I probably don't need a servo saver that much. I got all new ball cups to maybe tighten up the steering too then go from there. They make all kinds of shiny suspension parts too and I'm tempted. The shocks are actually in good shape and I made sure to top them off when I was getting everything ready. It just goes three times faster now so all the imperfections are showing up. Oh yea I don't have dual rate steering but I should set up the servo linkage to move it slower. I didn't think of that yet. The car side is on the slowest setting but I don't think the servo side is. It is twitchy and real light in the front at high speeds. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 21:34
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shy boy from chess club posted:The steering just has a ton of slop in it everywhere and I think that's what's causing the death wobble. My Scorpion has the same issue. I'm just pretty sure any old design doesn't have the tightness of something modern. It was never designed to handle a modern brushless setup. It will go like hell in a straight line, but it will eventually just abruptly veer and crash. There's a lot of loose fitment in the front suspension. If I still had my old cheapy metal lathe I'd try cutting some shims for the various pivot points. It's still stupidly fun though.
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Mar 16, 2021 18:09
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I don't think the wobble is really coming from your linkage. Momentum is gonna keep the car and the wheels going forward through any slop in your steering linkage. I just checked both of my race buggies and they have a few degrees of play in them. You can try things like giving the front a little bit of toe out to help keep it stable. You could lower the rear ride height to tone down the efficacy of the steering. I'd make sure the links are the same length on the left and right.
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Mar 16, 2021 23:33
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It was a loose connection from the servo to the linkage. The hole is wallered out so I bent the rod to take it up and it works a lot better now. The suspension still can't really keep up with the increased speed now but that was expected.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:26
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Went to the Little Sahara sand dunes in Utah this weekend for Paddlepalooza (event held by the local RC "club"). It was a good time. I put two full tanks through the VEKTA and had a blast with some friends driving big cars. I have some more clips to upload, but here are a couple easy ones. My Baja Rey on paddles. I only have one battery pack but ripping this for 12 minutes at WOT on 3S and sending it wherever possible is the best.  Here is someone with an ARRMA Kraton 6S hitting a casual triple back flip. The one he did before was butter smooth, this one he still stuck the landing with ease but it wasn't as tidy. DIRECT IMGUR VIDEO LINK removed sound because all you hear is wind noise. This is a screen grab from the local Facebook group of someone that recorded me driving my VEKTA on the Formula Off Road timed course. Pretty hilarious because no paddles, heavy truck (50+ pounds, 10 pounds are tires and wheels alone) running a tight course made for little electric guys. The dune is so steep it is impossible for a human to climb. DIRECT IMGUR VIDEO LINK
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Mar 22, 2021 21:11
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Went to the Little Sahara sand dunes in Utah this weekend for Paddlepalooza (event held by the local RC "club"). It was a good time. I put two full tanks through the VEKTA and had a blast with some friends driving big cars. I have some more clips to upload, but here are a couple easy ones. I've got the same paint job on my Armma senton. 
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Mar 22, 2021 21:22
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So Tony’s recommended for screws? Just got a Traxxas to goof around with and already stripped 2 hexes just looking at them.
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Mar 23, 2021 00:01
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Tony’s is definitely a good brand. The stainless ones aren’t any stronger from some of the prevailing brands. We sell the Tony’s sets for large scale and I push people that direction over stainless every time. FullForce RC makes ‘pit box’ hardware kits for large scales and they might for smaller models too. Those are good too if they have them.
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Mar 23, 2021 00:09
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Is it unreasonable to expect the Arrma Granite Mega (brushed) to be able to run on 2S without overheating? I’ve read things to the effect of it really only being designed for the NiMH pack it came with. Smoked the stock motor, and the Traxxas 12t motor I got sold as a replacement is running almost too hot to touch on 75% and it’s only like 60 degrees out, running with the body off. I believe I set the mesh correctly (little bit of lash) and had to tighten the slipper a bit. I’m willing to take it in the shorts if I’m doing something wrong but it’s a little disappointing for my kid and it seems like the truck is marketed as 2S Lipo capable. Maybe it’s lesson learned for me and I’m gonna have to just do the brushless upgrade. We don’t need any more speed really, but will the efficiency mean we can use the nice 2S batteries we bought without wrecking the thing? Looks like I need motor, ESC, pinion, spur assembly, and already bought the aluminum plate motor housing, that all? I know the BLX might have some other bells and whistles but strictly for the drivetrain I think that’s all that’s required. Edit: also we are three vehicles in at this point and loving it. The Capra that we built and finally got to run on an actual crawling course, this Granite, and a Losi DB Pro that’s doing double duty as an unguided missile for me and something I can dial down for the kids. I was trying to decide between the Ryft and Lasernut up thread and the guy at the shop basically talked me down and it’s a good thing, because this thing on 3S is insane.... uwaeve fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 00:35
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A cursory look at the Granite Mega 550 brushed RTR specs say it's lipo compatible. Assuming the traxxas motor you got is also a 550 can with similar output to the stock one, you're probably just bumping into the fact that the lipo can source much more current, so the truck as is may be geared too tall for the surface you're running on and that extra power is just turning into heat since the truck doesn't have enough go to overcome resistance. If the motor is getting over 140 degrees (too hot to tap your finger on for a sec) then it's getting cooked. Lipo batteries of comparable size can also run for way, way longer than a nimh pack which might be contributing to heat buildup. Try running for a timed 5 minutes on a flat smooth surface, varying the throttle like you normally would and see how the heat compares. If it cools down with less resistance you might try gearing down for whatever surface you are running on normally.
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Mar 24, 2021 01:41
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They are totally capable of lipo. The problem will be usually from extended run times from lipo batteries. If you ran 8–10 minutes at a time it’d last a lot longer. Another factor will be the surface you’re driving on. Grass and high bite surfaces will put more strain on the motor. The longer the drive will only exacerbate the heat issue.
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Mar 24, 2021 03:19
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