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I think Mopar calls them cam access covers. And yeah I would not expect to be able to remove it non-destructively.
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Aug 23, 2020 16:27
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Left cylinder head access plug. Try P/N 53021197AA
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Aug 23, 2020 16:31
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cursedshitbox posted:Left cylinder head access plug. Holy poo poo dude, you're amazing. 
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Aug 23, 2020 16:42
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Improvised seal driver! (don't do this) Flexplate installed and torqued.  Cylinder head plug (actually part number 53021031?)   Converter in transmission. Chrysler does not recommend the three clicks. Says 1/2" clearance between the bellhousing face and lugs is seated.   Going back in.  Home.  Job well done, lads.  As we all know, there is still plenty to do before I can turn the key. That can wait until tomorrow, since it's already loving hot. 
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Sep 6, 2020 20:12
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Triple posting 'cause y'all aint. I went ahead and spent some money on some parts I definitely don't need for a car that doesn't deserve it. Ported upper intake, LX5 65 mm throttle body and adapter, and linkage bracket to match. From WOT-Tech, one of two suppliers of Chevy V6 parts that I know of. When combined with the headers I found at the yard last year, these parts should hopefully wake this engine up to its true performance potential. 3100 for the sleeper aspect, and the vacuum ports I need.  LX5 throttle body.  Big mouth.  Modified linkage. It looks like the modification is to accomodate the adapter plate's thickness?  The linkage is different from the LA1 throttle body I'm running. I settled on cables from a Lumina, and Milzy swapped the linkage out for me to match. According to Ben at WOT, the linkage is non-serviceable on this TB, so I will need a new cruise cable to match it. Good thing there's a yard just up the street.  With this, I might even be able to dip into the 16s in the quarter mile!
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Sep 17, 2020 03:06
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Good morning lads.  95% complete, I'd say. Starts, runs, drives, stops, goes again. It was smoking heavily at first, which had me loving sideways. this loving engine is trash im gonna have to pull it and fling it from a trebuchet at the builder and get another one how dare they rip me off Eventually the smoking went away. The #5 misfire, however, did not. New spark plugs, new coils, dead hole. Unburnt gasoline spewing out of the exhaust, all that.  That would do it, yeah? I mean, with as many times as I had the lump in and out, only one wire ripped out is pretty good, I say. I jammed that wire back into the plug as best I could, but the misfire is still there. DRIVING IMPRESSIONS Now that it's not hammering itself to pieces, I was able to get a feel for how the truck actually behaves. Make no mistake, it is a truck. That said, it rides a lot better than I expected it to. Steering is tight, suspension is stiff but not rattle your teeth. Gearing is T A L L. It has a 3.55 rear end, but those super tall tires (265-70-17) effectively drag it down below 3. Doesn't shift out of first until almost 50 mph. Because of the gearing and the misfire, it doesn't want to maintain highway speed in 4th. I think I might need someone else to repair the wiring for that coil. Gonna go ahead and order some 2" drop shackles to level it out, and maybe throw the Pep Boys ricer aisle at it just for giggles. But it's done, boys. We did it.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:59
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Nice! First starts always scare the crap out of me on stuff like that, especially since that time I put a motor in my daily and it knocked from first start.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:00
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Checks out, that's exactly what happened on my O2 sensor. Whatever little tabs they use on those connectors are super brittle by now.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:34
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Transmission dead. https://imgur.com/a/MOalzFD
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Sep 21, 2020 13:41
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jfc
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Sep 21, 2020 14:01
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Ugh. Remind me to never own a Chrysler product again.
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Sep 21, 2020 14:07
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Holy poo poo.... that's just incredible. I feel for you. At least trans swap is... easier? 
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Sep 21, 2020 20:56
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Definitely easier than it was on George.  You sure it's cooked and not just really low on ATF?
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Sep 21, 2020 22:54
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That's often the same thing on Dodge full-size trucks. Holy poo poo, what a kick in the nuts.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:57
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STR posted:Definitely easier than it was on George. Yeah, level was good when I checked it yesterday. It also made some nasty noises this morning when it quit. It might be the converter. When I went to get it just now it tried to go, went into gear and all that, but it only moved a couple hundred feet before it stopped working again. At this age though, 12 years 182k miles, it's probably due for a refresh.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:20
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Ken nailed it..kastein posted:Holy poo poo, what a kick in the nuts. At least when you're done with this, hopefully you'll have a solid work truck?
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Sep 22, 2020 00:58
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I bet you guys thought I was kidding about the ricer badges thing.
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Nov 2, 2020 05:59
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 where'd you score that?
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Nov 3, 2020 15:09
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ebay. They're listed for a Mustang, so they're in the style of the 5.0 badge. I considered getting a badge from a Liberty but those are pretty conservative, and Rams are not.
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Nov 3, 2020 15:50
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Left Ventricle posted:Doesn't shift out of first until almost 50 mph. Because of the gearing and the misfire, it doesn't want to maintain highway speed in 4th. Reading this again looking for the statement you referenced and... gently caress, this wasn't a good sign and I missed it. Wonder if it will do that anymore after you rebuild the trans?
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Nov 3, 2020 18:52
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kastein posted:Reading this again looking for the statement you referenced and... gently caress, this wasn't a good sign and I missed it. Wonder if it will do that anymore after you rebuild the trans? No. I guess I wasn't clear. My meaning was that at wide open it goes that fast before shifting. Like I said, the truck has 3.55 gearing, but really tall tires, so the effective ratio is probably something like 2.73 or so. I imagine it will still wind up to 45-50 in first no matter what with those gears. I think I might try to find a 3.92 rear end from a V8 truck to swap in. Eventually. After the transmission is rebuilt. 
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Nov 4, 2020 14:02
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Left Ventricle posted:ebay. They're listed for a Mustang, so they're in the style of the 5.0 badge. I considered getting a badge from a Liberty but those are pretty conservative, and Rams are not. These look pretty good: https://www.ebay.com/i/282972410043  Same basic idea as above, but different style of badge: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BRAND-NE...mcAAOSwOVpXZiiD  For OEM Mopar flavor, Jeep badges? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-3-7L-...bcAAOSwlltfB6iL  Then again, if you're trying for impact, the 5.0 style ones are up to it.
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Nov 4, 2020 21:53
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Darchangel posted:... if you're trying for impact, the 5.0 style ones are up to it. I am. I want this truck to be the dumbest bro garbage possible, without the performance chops to back it up. So I want an enormous Ram logo decal taking up the back window, a bighorn sheep mural on the tailgate, hell, maybe even a fender snorkel for no reason, since this is a 2WD truck! Is there a turbo kit for the 3.7? I haven't been able to find one. Not that the 42RLE would be able to handle it, but a man can dream, right? Maybe get this 3.5L one for the wagon?
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Nov 5, 2020 04:27
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Left Ventricle posted:I am. I want this truck to be the dumbest bro garbage possible, without the performance chops to back it up. So I want an enormous Ram logo decal taking up the back window, a bighorn sheep mural on the tailgate, hell, maybe even a fender snorkel for no reason, since this is a 2WD truck! In theory, you could take a supercharger compatible 4.7l intake manifold, chop it down, and slap a positive displacement supercharger on top. That would be cutting up a $2000+ custom part for a joke. Authenticity isn't what we're going for here though. Whistle tip exhaust + 4.56 rear. Do the v6 trucks have the "anti-spin" viscous LSD? Change fluid often if yours does. 15,000 towing here in FL was enough to degrade it to the point of shuddering around every low speed turn.
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Nov 5, 2020 13:09
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Left Ventricle posted:I am. I want this truck to be the dumbest bro garbage possible, without the performance chops to back it up. So I want an enormous Ram logo decal taking up the back window, a bighorn sheep mural on the tailgate, hell, maybe even a fender snorkel for no reason, since this is a 2WD truck! Isn't there a four-banger Euro option for the Chrysler 300 or something? I know you can get a VM Motori turbodiesel.
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Nov 6, 2020 02:46
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wanna turbo dat trukk Step1: flip manifolds Step2: electric fan Step3: hair dryer Step4: pop another 42RLE Really though, does anyone turbocharge the 3.7, even in Jeeps? Related, does the 545RE or whatever share the bellhousing, and would it stand up to something "reasonable" like 300 ish hp? Also gonna order a cam, ported heads and lower intake for the wagon eventually. Wagon NA, turbo truk.
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Dec 1, 2020 01:08
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300ish should be doable since the WJ 4.7HO put out most of that stock, and later 4.7s I think were at/above 300hp. Don't know if the bellhousings are the same but I'd expect "probably". They're far from indestructible, as the local nutjob with a turbo 4.7 WJ has found out. Then again, he's also already blown up a 4L80E behind that same engine. Do you have to maintain OBDII happiness? Is your truck JTEC or NGC? JTEC has this amazingly stupid thing where it resets whatever the high value it sees on the MAP sensor to be "1 bar".
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Dec 1, 2020 01:28
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Christ they still did that on JTEC? That clever idea literally came from SBEC via RENIX. it's in the RENIX patents from the very early 80s. I thought they would have trusted the MAP to give real numbers by loving 1996.
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Dec 1, 2020 06:01
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Left Ventricle posted:wanna turbo dat trukk Don't know about the Jeeps, but IIRC, the 3.7 can be supercharged more easily than turboed. The Ram has way more room to work with. I'd say go to Airram.com, as he had a lot of bespoke solutions, but he hasn't been updating the site much. Be careful with parts compatibility between the 2002-2003, 2004-2007, and 2008-2011s. The 2002-2003 especially is weird, with many holdovers from the second gen Ram. The older 3.7 is, what's the word, unloved? Both it and the 2004-2007 4.7 suffer from a distinct lack of low-end torque. That said, I know a guy who pulled a trailer five days a week for eight years with a 2008 3.7 1500. The thing ate two engines and three transmissions in that time. For what you're using it for it would probably be fine with intake/exhaust (to improve response) and any other rear gear than the 3.55. The 4.56 Jeep gear should fit if you have a 9 1/2 inch rear end. Run like a scalded dog until 80mph, just screaming at you. The 545RFE should slot right in. IIRC, that trans was standard on all V8s from 2003-on. It is both the best and worst parts of these trucks. It should handle at least 300, considering the earlier 5.7 and late 4.7 dual-spark put out 320-330 hp.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:29
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kastein posted:Christ they still did that on JTEC? That clever idea literally came from SBEC via RENIX. it's in the RENIX patents from the very early 80s. I thought they would have trusted the MAP to give real numbers by loving 1996. Yup, and at least from my limited browsing of the HPTuners forums, there's not really a good fix. That shitshow of a computer carried through at least 2004 in the WJ and TJ, but I'd sincerely hope this truck isn't still running that.
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Dec 1, 2020 23:22
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Just trying to keep this out of archives. A benign rock chip has E X P A N D E D into a full-length crack, so the windshield in the wagon will need to be replaced. RIP my City of Fontana parking permit #1513 sticker Winter doesn't appear to be a thing in Las Vegas this year, so I will be getting the yellow sedan back up and running and prepped for sale. Needs a starter and drivetrain mounts. Gonna also get going on pulling the transmission from the Ram so that can get rebuilt. Hopefully the shop I had redo the 4T60E for the wagon can work their magic on this 42RLE. I have beat on the wagon trans mercilessly and it keeps coming back for more.
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Feb 4, 2021 15:47
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Side project time! I believe I may have mentioned this before, but I am in possession of a 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier coupe. I received it from my uncle, for the price of "tow it away and you can have it". It's been dragging down local property values for the better part of a year now. My middle daughter has expressed interest in having a car, so I agreed to give it to her as long as she actively participates in its rehabilitation. This includes cleaning the interior and mechanical repairs. My uncle is a slob. He smoked pretty heavily in the car for the 7 or 8 years he owned it, and never cleaned it. I've done a few repairs on it over the years, like swapping the struts and replacing the alternator, but he just didn't take care of it. The images that proceed will illustrate this. Here it is, cursing everything around it. This particular model has the 2.2L Ecotec and four speed automatic. Kinda wish it had a manual, but you take what you can get.  This is the condition of the cab when I got it. I did nothing prior to these photos being taken.   Absolutely vile.   Like, there's ashes under the power window switch.  Pulled the front seats and rear lower cushion.   Just years of body grime.   Random detritus under the rear seat.  The girl refused to even entertain the idea of trying to clean those seats, so we flew out to the yard real quick and snagged a much better condition set from a smashed Sunfire.  Got down to it.  After some quality time with the vacuum:    The main reason my uncle gave the car to me is because it was dying. He said that it ran great but would overheat after about 5 minutes or driving. He had the head gasket done a year or two ago, so continuing to get hot is never a good sign. I'm really good at slamming engines into GM FWD cars at this point, so let's get started. For those who are unfamiliar, the Cavalier is a J platform car, introduced by GM for the 1982 model year and continuing production through 2005. GM initially did what it always did and rebadged it about a dozen times, but ended with just a Chevy and Pontiac on the platform. GM also stretched it a little bit and came up with the L (Beretta) and N (Grand Am) platforms. I could swap in a V6, but the wiring and computer stuff is a little beyond my capabilities, so we're probably going with a stock replacement. Unless you guys know about doing a 2.4 swap? Here's how we started.  Already not going that great. Broken vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator.   And a broken nipple for crankcase ventilation.  In pretty short order, I pulled the air cleaner, throttle body, fuel rail, and intake manifold.  Time for a surprise.      Cracked block! The hell of it is, I had to move the car around several times, and each time it started up and ran without issue, maybe a little noisy. Old GMs will run like poo poo for longer than most cars will run at all. Let's go a little further.  Cams don't look terrible, all things considered. I mean yeah, the cam cover has plenty of burnt oil, but that's not that big of a deal, right?  No, yeah, that lifter is scored pretty badly.  Yummy.  Let's, uh, let's just call it.  Rest, friend. Rest.  So yeah, that's definitely new engine territory. I've been trying to find information about swapping a 2.4, since I imagine it's the same sensors and whatnot, yeah? There isn't much out there though, just people saying don't bother, it's not worth it, just turbo it. If I can upgrade, I want to.
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Mar 6, 2021 22:14
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It's for your daughter. Why not just do the easy thing and stock for stock replace it? .2L probably just uses more gas with hardly any discernable difference otherwise. Buy you do your thing, AI. 
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Mar 7, 2021 00:39
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Suburban Dad posted:It's for your daughter. Why not just do the easy thing and stock for stock replace it? .2L probably just uses more gas with hardly any discernable difference otherwise. i guess the main thing to me is, does she want to hotrod it, or does she just want easy/cheap wheels? dropping a working motor into it sounds like a lot less work than figuring out a swap, and then you can use that saved time to work on your own stuff. but if she's into the project as a project, then it could be a cool father/daughter thing to put actual work into. even if its a cavalier lmao
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Mar 7, 2021 00:57
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Suburban Dad posted:It's for your daughter. Why not just do the easy thing and stock for stock replace it? .2L probably just uses more gas with hardly any discernable difference otherwise. Looking into it a bit further shows that it's not really a drag and drop operation like the 3.5 was. Need to use the L61 (2.2) head on the LE5 (2.4) because the LE5 has VVT, with an LE5 head gasket (2mm bore difference), and finagle a 7x trigger for ignition, since the LE5 uses 58x. Maybe other things, but that's all I could find on old threads on j-body.org and Pennock's Fiero Forum. It's not a documented swap, it seems. Raluek posted:i guess the main thing to me is, does she want to hotrod it, or does she just want easy/cheap wheels?
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Mar 7, 2021 01:48
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Left Ventricle posted:This was the general consensus when I put the 3.5L into my Century, and it's been running for going on five years now and I get the same fuel economy as the stock 3.1L did. dont get me wrong, i will never argue against more power. i just wasnt clear on whether she would actually care at all, or be interested in the swap, as opposed to just wanting an appliance. if she's into it, and you have an idea of what it takes, fucken go for it it sounds like you can grab a complete 2.5 and 2.4 for almost nothing, see if you can lego together a solution. if its too much work, put the new 2.2 back together and slam it in working with junkyard parts from common cars like this makes the opportunity cost of trying something very very low, all it costs is time
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Mar 7, 2021 01:55
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LS4 swap when? Just kidding Sort of.
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Mar 7, 2021 01:56
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Suburban Dad posted:It's for your daughter. Why not just do the easy thing and stock for stock replace it? .2L probably just uses more gas with hardly any discernable difference otherwise. There's a significant power boost from the 2.4 vs the 2.2 (~170 hp vs ~125 hp depending on year and trim, partly thanks to VVTi), but it's not something that can be swapped easily. The PCM won't play nice, the 2.4 was never offered with a cable throttle, a 2.4 PCM will be looking for a lot of other modules that aren't there. Tons of wiring, HP Tuners gets to get involved, etc. LV, I'd find the latest year model L61 that has the correct crank trigger, and keep your existing throttle body - they revised the entire timing chain setup multiple times over the L61's run. Grab a new timing chain tensioner (it's been revised too many times to count and pretty easy to install), it's cheap insurance against it jumping time. Most everything else should plug in, might have to swap a couple of the earlier sensors over. ... the gently caress did he DO to that engine to crack the block though? GAWDAMN. I beat the snot out of both of my L61s, and the worst they ever did was miss pretty bad on a cold start after sitting a few weeks (valve guides were going... I think.. lots of blue smoke if they sat more than a few days). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 18:39
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Did they have a Z24 at that time?
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Mar 7, 2021 21:27
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| # ? May 17, 2024 13:47 |
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If the motor was taken care of that poorly you might want to check the condition of the transmission, because if that's shot too you might as well do it all at once. Hell I'd just swap out the entire front subframe with the motor/trans/axles etc
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Mar 7, 2021 21:36
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