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Made a Skaven out of Dalathrust for a kill team.  His back piece is one giant chunk of warpstone with two smaller chunks hanging from chain. The Demilich fucked around with this message at 02:08 on May 22, 2022 |
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Mar 7, 2021 01:40
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 12:08 |
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Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck
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Mar 7, 2021 02:24
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck I forget the name but there's a green stuff world product my buddy uses that's incredible. You paint it on and stuff frosts up, weirdly how actual frost spreads even. Only issue is it's fragile and you need to add a protective coat.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:49
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck precisioniceandsnow.com is a place I've heard good things about but haven't yet bought/tried their stuff. They ship from the UK.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:55
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck Try this video by Marco Frisoni! https://youtu.be/j4dpos38Le4
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Mar 7, 2021 03:10
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This is miniature building and not miniature painting, but Is there anything more hateful than a mold line running over the knuckles of a model holding something
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Mar 7, 2021 03:30
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Looking forward to the MIniature Building, Miniature Displaying and Miniature Purchasing threads
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Mar 7, 2021 03:32
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Mar 7, 2021 04:28
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck I learned the recipe from a friend for these bases: Spanish Manlove posted:Now I have eradicators. Ho ho ho First you paint the base the color you want the ice, a bluish green or greenish blue work well, add in some variety too. For these I added some blue splotches in the middle to break up the color. Then just glob a ton of this crackle medium onto it. Then wait 12h for it to dry and crack. Drybrush bluish white then light drybrush pure white. Add snow. You can probably do the same thing with any crackle paint and I've seen a few examples where people take lava flow bases and just paint the lava like water and the rocks like ice.
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Mar 7, 2021 06:03
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Thanks everybody for the hot tips. Going to experiment with a few things and post results
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Mar 7, 2021 07:35
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more grots for the grot god
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Mar 7, 2021 13:47
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BaronVanAwesome posted:This is miniature building and not miniature painting, but Face is worse imo, but that seems pretty rare these days.
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Mar 7, 2021 14:21
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BaronVanAwesome posted:This is miniature building and not miniature painting, but Mold lines through hair or fur
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Mar 7, 2021 14:27
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really any textured surface is a motherfuck. ridged insides of space marine knees and elbows get it sometimes depending on model and that sucks too, at least they’re kinda out of the way usually
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Mar 7, 2021 17:06
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MURDERFANG   And the bash brothers together 
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Mar 7, 2021 20:06
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God drat those kick so much rear end. I had a really low point yesterday where I thought about painting all my marines as Iron Hands because it'd be easier than Space Wolves, but thank you for inspiring me just now to stay with The Rout.
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Mar 7, 2021 20:33
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:God drat those kick so much rear end. You got this man, you can do it!
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Mar 7, 2021 20:49
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After many months I finally got around to finishing my Scarab Occult Sorcerer.  My squad of Terminators is at last complete.  My elite boys are going to kick some serious arse. 
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Mar 7, 2021 20:58
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If you don't use it as a separate luminosity guide, I guess zenithal priming isn't worth it for paint, wash, highlight, drybrush, finish kind of painter? It would seem like you'd need to use contrast paints or contrast medium glazes to make it show through. Is that about right? I got miffed when I eradicated some facial features with a rattle can and I'm trying to talk myself into just priming black.
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Mar 7, 2021 21:28
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Firstborn posted:If you don't use it as a separate luminosity guide, I guess zenithal priming isn't worth it for paint, wash, highlight, drybrush, finish kind of painter? Zenithal is only really gonna show through if you work with thin glazes, yeah.
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Mar 7, 2021 21:35
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Perhaps slightly off-topic but I've spent the last few days with this thing and, without wanting to brag, I'm pretty sure it's unsinkable. Now to work out decals.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:05
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BaronVanAwesome posted:This is miniature building and not miniature painting, but I am here to once again talk about how Tamiya Extra Thin Cement changed my life and made me not hate knuckles and ribbed cables. Wipe most of it off the little applicator, brush it towards the grain to "paint" away the offending line.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:10
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Firstborn posted:If you don't use it as a separate luminosity guide, I guess zenithal priming isn't worth it for paint, wash, highlight, drybrush, finish kind of painter? Somewhat! Everything you’ve said is true however the tones of the paint layers can be influenced by the under paint. So having some colors over a zenithal, assuming you’re not doing very thick, opaque layers, should still have some level of depth to them because of the under paint. You can also zenithal in non-white colors to influence tones in different ways. For example, using a flesh tone as a zenithal over a dark base to give everything a rosy warmth. These effects are very noticeable between models that share a paint scheme but maybe one has a zenithal and another doesn’t. It’s less noticeable in your standard base, wash, highlight method of painting, but it’s still influential on the end result.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:13
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I started using a wet pallet and have run into an issue where I'm trying to thin my paints as I normally would with a hard pallet, but the paint quickly becomes runny and beads up on the wet pallet. I thought one of the advantages of a wet palette was to be able to drop a few drops of different paints and be able to mix them freely, but when I try to thin, this becomes really impossible. It also makes brush control very difficult.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:19
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HopperUK posted:Perhaps slightly off-topic but I've spent the last few days with this thing and, without wanting to brag, I'm pretty sure it's unsinkable. please tell me there's also a model of the iceberg
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Mar 7, 2021 22:19
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Winklebottom posted:please tell me there's also a model of the iceberg I'm seriously considering making one.
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Mar 7, 2021 22:37
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody seen good examples of frozen ice/lake bases? I've been trying to find something like water effects, but 'frosty' looking, and haven't had any real luck https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/43463-tutorial-creating-ice-bases/ I've had this one sitting in my bookmarks for ages.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:08
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Pretty stoked on this Space Wolves Bladeguard Ancient conversion I'm working on.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:25
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Pretty stoked on this Space Wolves Bladeguard Ancient conversion I'm working on. Very nice. Good effort at not using the regular wolf helmet. Even if I do like it almost as much as the beakie. Finished a  this weekend.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:43
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I keep hoping they'll make Kroot not a terrible joke faction in Kill Team so that I can justify painting some up because they look very fun.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:57
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Phi230 posted:I started using a wet pallet and have run into an issue where I'm trying to thin my paints as I normally would with a hard pallet, but the paint quickly becomes runny and beads up on the wet pallet. I thought one of the advantages of a wet palette was to be able to drop a few drops of different paints and be able to mix them freely, but when I try to thin, this becomes really impossible. It also makes brush control very difficult. It depends on the paint you're using, but you probably don't need to add much/any water to your paint on a wet palette for base coating at least, and just a tiny bit for layering or wet blending. I only really add a significant amount of water for glazing, but I mainly use Kimera paint which is a bit on the more liquid side compared to something like Scale75.
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Mar 8, 2021 00:13
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Anyone able to recommend some good squig-like miniatures? Preferably a swarm of mini ones, to put in a cage/box for a custom Squigbuggy. I'm operating on a 'No two ork vehicles should look alike' policy so gonna have to do some modelling work.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:27
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It's my first time using Martian Ironcrust and I wasn't sure how it would turn out. I probably could have added more interest to the base in hindsight? I should have added skulls but I think I'm done with Brother Baraka On a Bike. I actually named this dude Atredian of The Black Dragons - He's my first ever Outrider of Combat Squad Naga of my soon to be built Fortis Kill Team Dastros. Thanks for reading my fan fiction.     (Shamelessly stolen radar idea from an Outrider that BrotherSRM did)
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Mar 8, 2021 02:43
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Any recommendations for church or temple bases? Resin, acrylic, or mdf are fine. Probably gonna go with these.
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Mar 8, 2021 03:46
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No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:Space Wolf conversions are coming along... Lieutenant and Chaplain done stoked to get painting on these guys
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Mar 8, 2021 15:12
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Funzo posted:I've got a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush and it works great for priming, basecoating and some basic shading, but I've been thinking about getting a new brush that will do detail better. Are the Sotar 2020 brushes pretty good, are would I be better off spending a little more and picking up a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity or something like that? I was in this exact scenario a while back and ended up buying both. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd skip the Sotar. It's a perfectly okay airbrush, but the Infinity is much nicer, even taking into account the additional cost. I finally painted another miniature after almost a whole year of scale stuff. Sorta. This guy's a 1/35 tanker out of an old Tamiya kit. Critique would be appreciated.  
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Mar 8, 2021 16:38
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I know it's been discussed ITT before, probably quite a few times, but can anyone  (or better yet, a video?) pertaining to how they drill and pin bases/models for the purposes of painting (as opposed to structural integrity)?Like in the past I've just glued my fully assembled minis onto their base and said to heck with creating fancy bases, then paint it. This time around I said OK I want to get into basing, so I've been using some blu-tack to stand up my assembled minis on a base while I paint it, then remove the mini and do the base, then glue the mini to the base. But this method sucks rear end because blutack simply isn't that strong and even with gentle brush use eventually I topple the mini over  Do you just drill a hole into every single base and every single model's foot, pin & glue it so it's "hovering" over the base slightly, then just snip the pin once you've finished painting? Is it literally that simple? 
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Mar 8, 2021 18:51
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Sab669 posted:I know it's been discussed ITT before, probably quite a few times, but can anyone I drill a hole in a foot, glue a pin in it, and stick it to a cork or something to paint. When I'm ready to attach it to the base I drill a hole in the base, trim the pin to an appropriate length, and glue it on. I'm not sure what you mean by the "hovering" thing. If you pin it to the base poorly it can look like it's hovering but there are plenty of ways to avoid that. I don't really do army painting, but I probably wouldn't do any sort of sub-assembling, including the base, for guys I was painting dozens of. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 19:33
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I meant something like this: Like using a pin that's too long, so that way I could easily get my cutters underneath and free the mini from the base. Whereas if the pin were short enough and the model sat flush on the base, there'd be no way to free the mini. What do you use for a paint handle when the mini is attached to the cork? And yea I'm not interested in painting before assembly at this time
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Mar 8, 2021 19:41
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literally just base around the miniature
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Mar 8, 2021 19:54
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