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The ground control setup uses threaded sleeves that fit over the shock body, and you can pick your spring rates and lengths. Going to linear "race" springs can be tricky when you are shooting for a softer, more comfortable setup because there's kind of a narrow range of rate and length that will work. You need to know the available length between the upper perch and threaded collar and the corner weight and shock travel and ideally the motion ratio and unspring weight but since it's adjustable just the corner weight usually is enough. and the motion ratio on struts is close to 1:1. As an example, lets say the front corner weight of an svx is 900lb (it might be more?). And lets say the shock has 5" of travel. If we stick a 200lb linear spring on there, with no preload, it's going to compress like 4.5" just sitting still leaving you sitting on the bump stops. And that's stiffer than the stock springs, which use a bunch of preload and progressive rates to be softer but sit at the right height. For 5" of shock travel you'd probably want to leave 2-2.5 for bump. The stiffer the spring gets, the less it compresses, which also means less droop. If your spring is 900lb/in, then it only compresses 1" and your car sits way jacked up with 4" of bump you'll never use and only 1" of droop. The way around this is with a shorter main spring and a helper to take up the difference so there's essentially 2" or whatever of travel before the main spring even engages. So anyway, when you bump the rate up to, say, 300lb, now you have something that works (compresses 3" leaving 2 or so left for bump travel). That's kind of on the firm side for a street car. Now you just need a length that fits and has enough travel for the shock. If I crack open the eibach motorsports catalog https://eibach.com/us/rt-2-catalog-downloads.html I find that a 2.5" ID, 300lb/in, 8" long spring only has 4.95" of travel. That's no good as it will coilbind before the shock runs out of travel. Going to a 10" spring, we have 6.15" of travel. So that probably works up front, but any preload reduces what's available. So for example say your shock actually has 5.75" of travel, and you preload that 10" spring 1/2" to get it to sit at the right height. Well, now you have only 5.65" of travel left on the spring, and might coil bind it. So then maybe you need 12" to work, but will it fit? or rub the tire? The rear is a little easier situation as the struts are longer and there's less weight. So you can figure out your front rate and then select the rear to be proportional based on the weight distribution and then get the one that fits. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 20:31
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Yeah, it seems like progressive-rate springs are probably much easier to get right for a comfortable suspension, but A) I'm not a mechanic and B) it has been so long since physics class. Shop just put notes in my work order that it's also giving some transmission codes, I'm not sure how specific it will be since it's an OBD-1 car but I asked if they could find more. I was hoping to save up for a high quality 6 speed swap but depending on how things go I might need to have a 5 speed swap done instead. I would try it myself if I had a shop and a lift and lots of tools, but I don't, and also I don't know enough to feel confident putting everything together. Hopefully it's still in good enough shape to drive for a while so I can save up.
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Mar 6, 2021 00:15
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I did a thing today. Brand new 2020 WRX Limited. https://imgur.com/gallery/oh93uiH
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Mar 6, 2021 21:18
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El Scandelouse posted:I did a thing today. Brand new 2020 WRX Limited. https://imgur.com/gallery/oh93uiH Niiice Ive been thinking the same thing. I want a manual trans, AWD that can seat 4 adults , 5 in a pinch. All cars are terrible - before i get a 2020 or 2021 WRX, what are the ways in which it is terrible? Ive heard the diffs are made of paper and jello so you have to rotate the tires every oil change and shave a replacement or buy a whole set if you cant plug one that gets holed. I think i can deal with this. What else should i know before getting one?
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Mar 7, 2021 14:25
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I've got a 2017 and the only "problems" I've had have been transmission related. Had a throwout bearing replacement done under warranty and a squeaky clutch pedal that according to multiple dealers is not an issue. I'm on stock power so knock on wood most everything else has been pretty decent. Just keep up consistent oil changes and regular maintenance pretty much. I did install an air oil separator early on which should be good for helping the life of the engine. I've considered other cars but this one is so dang convenient that any replacement worth considering is too expensive for me.
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Mar 7, 2021 15:00
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It sounds like the head gasket issues are/were either limited to the 6 cyl, or if they were a thing in the 4 cyl 2L they were resolved in the prev motor generation than the one we get in ‘20 and ‘21. Also seeing some stuff on oil consumption for the O4 vs an upright I4 like in a honda being an expected thing?
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Mar 7, 2021 15:24
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fresh_cheese posted:All cars are terrible - before i get a 2020 or 2021 WRX, what are the ways in which it is terrible? I don't know about the rotations every oil change (makes sense though), but the rest is a thing with all full time AWD Subarus (so basically everything since 1994, and a lot of stuff since the late 80s). Really, it's a thing on any full time AWD car. Discount Tire will generally replace the entire set if you have road hazard and one is unrepairable. I've tried to get my tires rotated a few times by Discount, and they said all 4 tires measured out exactly the same until the last time. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 18:24
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For the crosstrek and I assume other models it seems to be tire rotation is to be done every other oil change.
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Mar 7, 2021 19:18
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fresh_cheese posted:Niiice Touchy throttle, weird flat spot in the powerband between 4000-5000 RPM. A $700 Cobb Accessport easily fixes/changes those things. There's a little rev hang in the first few gears, but not an atrocious amount. Interior is hit or miss, but overall solid. The non-touch areas really do a good job of not looking pleasant to the touch. Stock Dunlops are loud and noise deadening in the cabin is not great. That's all I got! But I've only owned mine for a year. enojy fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 19:21
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enojy posted:Touchy throttle, weird flat spot in the powerband between 4000-5000 RPM. A $700 Cobb Accessport easily fixes/changes those things. There's a little rev hang in the first few gears, but not an atrocious amount. Interior is hit or miss, but overall solid. The non-touch areas really do a good job of not looking pleasant to the touch. Stock Dunlops are loud and noise deadening in the cabin is not great. That's all I got! But I've only owned mine for a year. Cool. No deal breakers yet then.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:50
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fresh_cheese posted:Niiice I’ve had mine for two days. Put 100 miles on it today. I can’t really speak to any of the powerband issues because it’s brand new and I’m not going over 4000 RPM until I hit 1000 miles. Clutch feels good, throttle is responsive. The limited is extremely comfortable with heated front leather seats, leather steering wheel, and sunroof. It’s got blind spot warnings and cross traffic reverse warnings. It’s fast and it’s comfortable. The Harmon Kardon sound system is great and I love that the limited came with all weather floor mats and trunk liner. Also the tracking headlights tripped me out last night when I took a corner out of my neighborhood and the beams tracked with my steering wheel.
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Mar 8, 2021 00:01
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And lots of storage! 2020 sport-tech here. We got 16 inches of snow last month and I plowed our block with it 
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Mar 8, 2021 00:33
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You guys are doing a crap job of talking me out of a WRX.
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Mar 8, 2021 01:58
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You came to the wrong thread for that.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:04
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it's internet connected, so you have to worry about the cia killing you untraceably
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Mar 8, 2021 02:14
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You have to be pretend to be friendly with people who also have WRX's that try and wave to you.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:30
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That's a lot of cars/trucks/motorcycles culture though. At least Jeep idiots are just putting stickers on their mirrors now. No one waves at Outbacks, get an XT.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:37
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fresh_cheese posted:You guys are doing a crap job of talking me out of a WRX. I exploded my engine at 72,000. Enjoy, I guess?
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Mar 8, 2021 02:40
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um excuse me posted:I exploded my engine at 72,000. Enjoy, I guess? Because of something you did? Or didnt do? Or do they maybe just do that sometimes?
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Mar 8, 2021 03:38
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Case for the factory extended warranty if anything. But who buys those anyways?
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Mar 8, 2021 04:05
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fresh_cheese posted:Because of something you did? Or didnt do? He did lots of autocross. When you race, all bets are off. dooooooooooooooo eeeeeeeeeeeett!
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Mar 8, 2021 04:08
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worth it
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Mar 8, 2021 04:12
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fresh_cheese posted:Cool. No deal breakers yet then. No, certainly not. If you're already interested in the kind of car the WRX is, regardless of whether you track it or not, it's a great choice. There's a number of interesting quirks about the car, and Subaru in general, but nothing overtly bad. Nothing noteworthy enough that you'd see it mentioned in a review, but unique enough to be perverse. Kinda like rotary Mazda engines. Just weird. It sounds like farm equipment, and I swear it gets quieter the harder I drive it. Never in my life have I accidentally approached redline, but it happens now! There's a digital compass built into the rear view mirror. Small item storage areas are ridiculous -- No "coin door" beneath the steering wheel (it just opens up to the fuse panel,) the cup holders in the doors are more accommodating than the ones in the center console, a positively gigantic bin beneath the head unit that you could fit a cantaloupe into, yet a pointlessly shallow tray by the shifter that isn't even safe for a single loose coin, let alone multiple coins/objects. My center console lid breaks all the rules of physics by popping open with the slightest touch from underneath, yet stays securely shut on the bumpiest of roads. It never clicks shut, you just have to put your faith in it. Apparently this has been common for years. When I was cross-shopping a few cars, a lot of people complained of the drivability in the first few gears, specifically shifting and jerkiness. Lots of sloppiness in the shifter, and a jerky ride in 1st and 2nd gear. The first part is true, but it doesn't bother me at all (the throw could be a little shorter!) The jerkiness is also not bad; the gearing is kinda conservative, so it's just a matter of warming up to the car/throttle response over the first X weeks/months. Oh, speaking of gearing, yet another quirk is the fact that you're barely at 2000 RPM cruising at 45MPH in 5th gear. If someone brakes in front of you, there's no comfort room, immediate downshift or risk lugging the engine. Most of the time I just stay in 4th (~2500 RPM) and it's no worse for wear in fuel economy, so F it! That's a great spot to be for turbo engagement, anyhow. MPG is good if you want it to be. I get around 28/33 city/highway driving like the majority of drivers, but it will plummet with a lot of turbo usage. It's pretty easy to stay out of boost. Finally, if a manual transmission is very important, don't rule out Honda! They've had the best gearboxes for a long time and nothing's changed with their newest stuff (Accord, Civic Si, Civic Type R are all offered with manual transmission.) enojy fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 07:05
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You could check out the Veloster N too if you're cross shopping. It's smaller but has gotten been well received and if I was shopping now that's where I would take a look.
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Mar 8, 2021 13:44
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fresh_cheese posted:Because of something you did? Or didnt do? Yup blew mine up on course. Oil starvation ate the number 2 bearing and by the time I shut it off there was metal in the AVCS. New short block was needed. Just looked you were looking for bad news. Unless the steering wheel has been changed since the 2015 model, they peel pretty bad. My looks like crap already.
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Mar 8, 2021 14:58
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Intended uses of the car include, but are not limited to: ———— Commuting to/from healthcare delivery job for people who really need the care, weather ( snow, sleet, ice , of which we had more than 2 feet this most recent season) be damned. Grocery getter Teach my young new drivers the joys of having 3 pedals Occasional transport of 5 grown rear end adults for rides not exceeding 1 hour max when the bigger car isnt working for a bit Be fun to drive ———- WRX is sounding like itll do all this pretty drat well. I think im really just worried about the mismatched tire size BS if i have to replace 1 when the others have ~20k miles on them. Its a quirk i guess but i might be ok with that.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:00
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WRX, seriously? I see you've not talked to your insurance agent yet.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:09
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Also my WRX has more room in the back seat with 2 child seats than our RAV4
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Mar 8, 2021 17:18
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Motronic posted:WRX, seriously? I see you've not talked to your insurance agent yet. Its not /for/ the kids, they get the big slow safe car thats paid for. Maybe a honda beater in a couple years if they dont bend any metal and can put up half the purchase cost. An excellent point though. Ill have to talk to my insurance guy about this.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:28
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fresh_cheese posted:Its not /for/ the kids, they get the big slow safe car thats paid for. Maybe a honda beater in a couple years if they dont bend any metal and can put up half the purchase cost. It doesn't matter if it's FOR them or not. If you have young drivers in your household chances are good that you'll have no reasonable options for excluding them, so the insurance is going to be INSANE....and if you want to teach them how to drive stick on it you CAN'T exclude them. I've got a young driver and my 520 HP twin turbo porsche costs less than a WRX to insure. (which is why I bought her a 5-speed '08 Impreza to learn on) WRXes are just statistically cars that idiot young drivers do idiotic things in. So my point isn't that it's a bad car or a dangerous one, just that it's statistically problematic which makes it a financially poor choice when you could get something better/faster/more fun for much less once you involve a household with young drivers. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 17:33
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lilbeefer posted:EJ25 is fine. Just do your services and change the dang timing belt on schedule This. Or your belt will trick you into thinking it's a rod knock and you'll have wasted all your time stripping it down to the crank and realizing your block lied to you
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Mar 8, 2021 17:35
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Motronic posted:It doesn't matter if it's FOR them or not. If you have young drivers in your household chances are good that you'll have no reasonable options for excluding them, so the insurance is going to be INSANE. I've got a young driver and my 520 HP twin turbo porsche costs less than a WRX to insure. (which is why I bought her a 5-speed '08 Impreza to learn on) Uhhhh. Fukkk. Ok. Thanks for this heads up. I gotta go make phonecalls and do some math. Dammit.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:35
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fresh_cheese posted:Uhhhh.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:39
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Munkeylord posted:To piggy back. My sti doesnt even have an engine it it and it still costs me 55 a month for storage insurance And all this high insurance cost is part of the WRX /racecar/ 21 yr old bad decision making thing, im guessing?
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Mar 8, 2021 17:43
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fresh_cheese posted:And all this high insurance cost is part of the WRX /racecar/ 21 yr old bad decision making thing, im guessing? Yes. "Fast" car for a young driver, that is affordable enough for them to get their hands on.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:44
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fresh_cheese posted:And all this high insurance cost is part of the WRX /racecar/ 21 yr old bad decision making thing, im guessing? I'm still 21..in my heart
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Mar 8, 2021 17:46
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Munkeylord posted:I'm still 21..in my heart We all are bro.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:47
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Sanity check. KW V3 coilovers for 08-14 STI for under $1k CAD is a great deal, ya?   They look a little crusty from being winter driven, but supposedly only 30k km on them. I'll look them over closely before buying but if there's no evidence of leaking they should be a solid coil over right? I had Racecomp engineering coils on my Baja and they were just revalved KW's which 8 really liked. The V3 looks to be a little more of a motorsports oriented product which works with what I want from the car.
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Mar 8, 2021 18:44
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FA WRX is a great car for a daily - I just recently sold my 16 and it had around 93K totally trouble free miles. It’s a fantastic car as long as you take the “performance” part less seriously than the “all-rounder” part. The biggest pro I can think of is the sheer utility of it if you live in a snowy climate - I packed my entire life in it and drove from the east coast to Denver, and it was my only car I used year round. I used to go up in the mountains regularly in it I think that’s where it shines the most once you put snows on it. The cons are all mostly drivetrain related for me - stock, it just wasn’t enough of a drivers car which is why mods are very popular. However, if you don’t care about that, and want a fun, affordable, proper AWD, trouble free daily (within stick limits), I can’t think of a better can than a WRX. I had the Base and after a while, the interior space started falling apart a bit, lots of rattles and hard plastics to make it feel like the economy car base that it’s built on - I think if I had to do it again, I would opt for the Premium instead. It’s really worth it. The rev hang is supposedly less intense in the newer 2021 models, but I don’t know if that’s true or not. I would say to test drive it thoroughly - if after an hour of mixed driving it feels fun/solid, do it right away. If the wacky torque response, rev hang and sedate demeanor turn you off, it might be worth waiting for the new one that’s supposed to be announced soon.
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Mar 8, 2021 18:45
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Bajaha posted:Sanity check. KW V3 coilovers for 08-14 STI for under $1k CAD is a great deal, ya? Yeah, plus what you got that car for is pretty nuts too. V3 actually is less of a motorsports product than the RCE version. RCE gives them stiffer springs and a little firmer valving and are closer to the clubsports internally (v3, clubsport, rce t2 are all very similar though). The nice thing is those can be rebuilt and revalved and you can change the springs to different rates. I'm not sure the best way to do that in Canada though. I am not actually even sure that RCE rebuilds their products or if they send them to KW. The stock KWs have overly soft rear springs imo. It makes the ride better, and the stiffer fronts make the initial turn in feel nice, but at the limit they tend to push a little more than most people would like. On that set the rates are 70 N/mm front and only 50 rear. In lb/in that translates to about 400/280, but the rear being multi link puts the wheel rate much lower (good starting point is to have the wheel rates close to the weight distribution of the car). RCE's offered rates for the T2 are 500/500, 500/550, or 500/600. I forget what kw officially allows for changing springs on their stock valving but I think it's only like 20% jamal fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 19:54
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