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Mr. Apollo posted:Alternatively, there are still several 2019 RS 5s sitting on dealer lots. My dealer was in Montreal but they covered the cost of a closed transport truck to ship my car to Toronto. I’m sure you could get one for the price of a new S5. There was a white 2019 in Moncton with 8000km for~$75k I missed by a few days, sadly, which I probably would have picked up. Although I live in PEI and the honestly, the roads aren't good enough to really justify the extra speed and rawness(?) of the RS5. I was under the impression it rides harsher than the S5 even in comfort. My wife (  ) wants me to get something at least somewhat more comfortable than the S3.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:18
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flightless greeb posted:Speaking of B8.5 S4s, I'm selling mine. I listed it on autozine only right now but I'd be happy to sell it to a goon for another thousand off the price there. Sharp car. glws
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Mar 1, 2021 20:53
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EVERYWHERE 
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I'm assuming our engines are sophisticated / well-built enough to have bleeder valves / make the process of bleeding air from the coolant system easier? I'm up and running now, but I hear gurgling and signs that my coolant is probably riddled with air pockets. I want to find whatever the gently caress drain hose to dump it all out, and then mix in my new G13 / distilled mix, and then bleed out all the air. It seems like if there is a bleeder valve, that'll make this a bit easier than the usual methods on the Googles of leaving the cap off and topping off as the engine heats up. Though -- pretty sure the expansion tank is the highest point in the system for an A4, so... all the air should end up here anyways, right? Also I'm like 95% sure but figure I'll check -- G12 and G13 are fully mixable right?
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Mar 1, 2021 21:53
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movax posted:I'm assuming our engines are sophisticated / well-built enough to have bleeder valves / make the process of bleeding air from the coolant system easier? Just get one of these for re-filling the coolant. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Vacuum-Cooling-System-Fillers/Vacuum-Cooling-System-Filler/SVTSRAD272A
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Mar 1, 2021 22:16
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Mad Dragon posted:Just get one of these for re-filling the coolant. I don't have an air compressor (yet) and not sure I can justify $280 for that... there are much much cheaper versions out there I'm sure though. I saw ECS selling a Schwaben one for like $60 but would still need a compressor somewhere I think.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:38
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mik posted:There was a white 2019 in Moncton with 8000km for~$75k I missed by a few days, sadly, which I probably would have picked up. Although I live in PEI and the honestly, the roads aren't good enough to really justify the extra speed and rawness(?) of the RS5. I was under the impression it rides harsher than the S5 even in comfort. My wife ( What I did, and most other reviewers seem to agree on, is putting the Drive Select into Individual mode and setting everything to Dynamic except suspension. I set that to Comfort. The RS5 isn't as raw as the M3 or C63. It's much more of a GT car compared to those two. Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 23:07
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EDIT: Sorry, misunderstood the question.
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Mar 1, 2021 23:14
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movax posted:I'm assuming our engines are sophisticated / well-built enough to have bleeder valves / make the process of bleeding air from the coolant system easier? You can get one of those spill proof funnels and it will bleed your coolant. It’ll take a little time as the air bubbles rise up and escape which is why those vacuum connected ones exist for shops but it’s much cheaper
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Mar 1, 2021 23:16
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movax posted:I'm assuming our engines are sophisticated / well-built enough to have bleeder valves / make the process of bleeding air from the coolant system easier? I think this is what you're looking for. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I usually just jacked up the front end if the cap was on the radiator and fill it up, then let it warm up... before I bought one of these. Also turn on the heat on full blast in case there's air trapped in the heater core. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 23:41
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movax posted:I'm assuming our engines are sophisticated / well-built enough to have bleeder valves / make the process of bleeding air from the coolant system easier? Depends. I know on some of the blocks the recommendation when refilling the system is to disconnect the upper coolant hose and fill the block first then fill the rest of the cooling system to help eliminate air pockets.
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Mar 1, 2021 23:56
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Thanks dudes. I got that spill-proof funnel kit and will embark on my bleeding / draining adventure once it comes in. How long should it take? People talk about running for a hour which seems... excessive.
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Mar 2, 2021 00:42
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movax posted:Thanks dudes. I got that spill-proof funnel kit and will embark on my bleeding / draining adventure once it comes in. How long should it take? People talk about running for a hour which seems... excessive. Get it warm, squeeze the hoses with the coolant tank open and watch for bubbles. Once its at operating temp and you are getting no more big bubbles, you are good. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 03:34
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flightless greeb posted:Speaking of B8.5 S4s, I'm selling mine. I listed it on autozine only right now but I'd be happy to sell it to a goon for another thousand off the price there. really nice color! my only nitpick with your ad is that you should use a pic where the front wheel is turned towards the camera instead of the opposite
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Mar 2, 2021 20:34
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I know! I'm so mad I did that lol every other time I've done this I've had the wheel cranked the other way. If I list it somewhere else I'll probably use the shot of the rear even tho it doesn't show the color as well.
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Mar 2, 2021 22:07
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The volcano red is such a nice color. I just picked up mine, a 2015 with only 45K on it and a DSG. Awesome car so far.
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Mar 3, 2021 02:22
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gently caress. furiously checks to see if a RS6 Avant can be had in Volcano Red
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Mar 3, 2021 02:55
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Doesn't look like it. Maybe I'll buy a Navarro Blue one in a few years instead.
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Mar 3, 2021 04:02
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mrtrunks84 posted:The volcano red is such a nice color. I just picked up mine, a 2015 with only 45K on it and a DSG. Awesome car so far. They had some great colors around this time. I'm partial to the utopia blue myself, so I snagged my 2015 A4 in that scheme.
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Mar 3, 2021 16:25
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Those colors are great. I have been keeping my eye out for a used S3 and most the colors are boring black/white/gray. Same with Golf Rs.
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Mar 4, 2021 01:33
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I would love burgundy Audi one day.
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Mar 4, 2021 01:59
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I'm looking to get an extra key for a 2013 passat. Should I suck it up and pay the dealer? Reviews about trying to circumvent the dealer seem mixed...
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Mar 4, 2021 16:21
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So my lady and I are looking for a vehicle for our 16 year old twins that are going to get their licenses soon. I wasn't necessarily looking at VWs, but there seem to be some decent deals out there in our price range. I have an older VW, and I'm pretty familiar with what to look out for, and what the common issues are overall, but I know some models have specific demons. I think I have narrowed it down to two cars in our price range that just happen to both be Passats. One is a 2007 Passat wagon that says they have been checking the timing belt during servicing in the records, but hasn't been replaced, and at 130,000 miles, it's probably about time. https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/WVWTK73C27E003596 The other is a 2001 Passat GLX 4Motion sedan. It has 135,000 miles on it, but the dealer says the timing belt, water pump, head gasket, brakes, and tune up were just done, and it comes with a one year 12000 mile warranty. https://www.gandrautos.com/details/used-2001-volkswagen-passat/17889794 Am I dumb for even considering either one of these cars, or any VAG cars in this milage and price range? What are some things to look out for?
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Mar 7, 2021 00:11
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Volguus posted:A month ago I bought a 2018 VW Golf, 1.8T TSI manual (originally was planning for a GTI, but a TSI will do for now). Since I have a 20+ year gap in driving a manual, I was pretty much a total noob. I've been working on and improving in the dark arts of it and I'm getting better. But, one dragon's head is still rearing after all this time: going smoothly from 1st gear into 2nd gear. It seems to me that if I get up to 3K RPMs in the 1st gear, when I shift into 2nd it takes a bit to for the RPM to come down. If I let go of the clutch too soon/late it jerks me. I have to somehow get it just right. If I am driving uphill it's even worse, since the speed drops but the RPMs don't and I just have to let go of the clutch to not end up going into 2nd at 15KM/h. I have found the 1->2 shift to be the most difficult one to do smoothly on both my old Mk6 GTI and my current 1.4 TSI Golf. Weirdly enough, the best fix on the GTI was actually to go to like 3500-4000 RPM in 1st before shifting. On my current Golf, I tend to use 1st as basically a crawler gear to get to 10 mph and try to slip the clutch a little bit going into 2nd.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:19
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What seems to be working for me right now (and I hope I'm not destroying the clutch) is to delay a bit the release of the clutch and do it a bit slower than before. It gives it time for the rpms to get down and then to engage . It's been working for the last few days.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:34
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Uncle Lizard posted:So my lady and I are looking for a vehicle for our 16 year old twins that are going to get their licenses soon. I wasn't necessarily looking at VWs, but there seem to be some decent deals out there in our price range. I have an older VW, and I'm pretty familiar with what to look out for, and what the common issues are overall, but I know some models have specific demons. I think I have narrowed it down to two cars in our price range that just happen to both be Passats. For a first car for teens, I’d honestly avoid a VW. Buy a Toyota or something. Reliable, cheap for getting things fixed/replaced if something does break, and you’re okay if it gets some dents/nicks while they learn.
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Mar 8, 2021 19:23
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If the OP has experience working on the brand it's not a terrible idea, but there will be more costs. Depends on if "older VW" means "air cooled" or "Corrado" or "Mk IV" though
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Mar 8, 2021 19:29
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Well, I am coming up on the 1 year anniversary of buying my car and so it's do for it's one year/10k miles service. I have put about 1500 miles on it since I bought it because COVID. I know they want you to do the services even if you don't hit the mileage target but, uh, should I just wait until later in the year? I pre-purchased the first four services at sales time (Audi care), if that makes a difference.
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Mar 8, 2021 19:59
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Murgos posted:Well, I am coming up on the 1 year anniversary of buying my car and so it's do for it's one year/10k miles service. I have put about 1500 miles on it since I bought it because COVID. I'd change it when the service reminder tells you to. I had my previous GTI for 10 years, and it only had 40k on it when I traded it in. I still changed the oil every year. Oil can still get pretty nasty if all it does is sit and make short trips.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:36
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Mad Dragon posted:I'd change it when the service reminder tells you to. I had my previous GTI for 10 years, and it only had 40k on it when I traded it in. I still changed the oil every year. Oil can still get pretty nasty if all it does is sit and make short trips. Yep -- I let mine sit for ~800 days and didn't come close to the mileage interval, but it was gross. I'm changing it a few times faster (every ~3000 km or so) to try and make up for my negligence before going back to 7500 km. movax fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 21:04
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latinotwink1997 posted:For a first car for teens, I’d honestly avoid a VW. Buy a Toyota or something. Reliable, cheap for getting things fixed/replaced if something does break, and you’re okay if it gets some dents/nicks while they learn. The thing is, the Toyotas I've been seeing are extremely overpriced. 2000 base model Camry for $5k, no thanks. I have a good VW mechanic already, as I have one already, and when the kids move out it becomes our car again, so it should be something that we actually want to drive. Are there any issues with either of those years of Passat that are outside of just common VW poo poo? There was a Lexus IS 300 that just got the mint belt replaced, but was in one minor accident, for around the same price.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:21
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I can’t weigh in on what to expect, but I’d encourage you to bring it in to your mechanic for an inspection if you do want to move forward with any of the cars you find. The condition of a 10 or so year old car will vary greatly based on what the owners have done over the years. But anyway, I hope something works out. I know a few people who are still rocking a VW from that era and really haven’t had much beyond normal wear and tear bits to replace. One blown head gasket, but that was definitely in part caused by neglect. This is all anecdotal of course.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:40
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nitsuga posted:I can’t weigh in on what to expect, but I’d encourage you to bring it in to your mechanic for an inspection if you do want to move forward with any of the cars you find. The condition of a 10 or so year old car will vary greatly based on what the owners have done over the years. Definitely will get an inspection done. I'm leaning towards the black sedan just because it has had the timing belt, water pump, and head gasket done. Those seem to be the biggest problems I might have to deal with. I was originally thinking Toyota or Honda, but every car I've seen seemed to be overpriced by about $2k, and with our budget being around $5k, that sales a huge difference.
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Mar 8, 2021 22:32
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Always get VWs inspected. Seen too many of them done wrong by crappy mechanics
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Mar 8, 2021 22:43
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CommieGIR posted:Always get VWs inspected. Seen too many of them done wrong by crappy mechanics I just called the shop to see if they had a spot open this week and how much. $110 plus tax for a buyers inspection. That's totally worth it.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:08
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CommieGIR posted:Always get VWs inspected. Seen too many of them done wrong by crappy mechanics What are your opinions on VW dealer mechanics? I am always so conflicted as where to go and I don’t even know where to start. I realize the naïveté in saying this but I would like to believe it is bad marketing to have lovely dealer mechanics since I would think dealer mechanics get most of the repair business as it is.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:53
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dialhforhero posted:What are your opinions on VW dealer mechanics? I once took my A4 in for an oil change at the dealer and they happily provided me with the "many point inspection" that reported everything working... while the headlights were most definitely out, because I had yet to replace the bulbs. That poo poo is marketing / worthless, no one has the time to do a "100 point" inspection on a car properly in a time-effective fashion. I mean -- what you're looking for is someone who "knows" that target vehicle, what typically breaks, how to make a judgment call on that car and to pay them for their knowledge, services and probably equipment (Because, lift). That should be a guy at a dealership (or shop!) that works on similar enough vehicles to build up that body of knowledge. Sounds like Uncle Lizard found someone who can do it -- just chatting with them for a brief explanation of what they would look for would be a good sign. I am absolutely not an auto mechanic, but at this point, I could probably give you a decent inspection on a B7 A4 from owning one for like 12 years and having to deal with most of the common issues + reading tons of forum posts on it. Someone with a professional background with auto repair / maintenance could probably still do a better job on instinct.
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Mar 9, 2021 01:15
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dialhforhero posted:What are your opinions on VW dealer mechanics? Dealerships are hit or miss, I've run into one or two good ones only to have to take cars back to the dealership repeatedly to get the same thing fixed because they misdiagnosed and replaced the wrong part (even after I told them exactly what to replace). Its a safer bet to find a local VW/Audi/Porsche specialist shop if you can.
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Mar 9, 2021 01:27
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movax posted:I once took my A4 in for an oil change at the dealer and they happily provided me with the "many point inspection" that reported everything working... while the headlights were most definitely out, because I had yet to replace the bulbs. That poo poo is marketing / worthless, no one has the time to do a "100 point" inspection on a car properly in a time-effective fashion. I had a couple trial and error runs at some other mechanics before I found the ones I go to for different things. I have my main VW shop, my backup VW shop that used to be my only VW shop, and the place I take the American car to. Sometimes the American shop can work on my VW if it's general things that aren't specific to VW, like an oil change or brake job. I found all these places word of mouth.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:20
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I've had a dealer "fix" a problem that came back within two miles of driving from their shop because they didn't test drive it after the repair, take 1.5 hours to do an oil change somehow (the mechanic was at the car the entire time since the window in the waiting room looked out at the garage), and return the car to me with the seat shifting side to side because they cross threaded a screw and it wasn't tightened down (they had to drill it out and weld in a new nut). I eventually found a mechanic that works on high end imports and also VWs that was fairly competitively priced.
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Mar 9, 2021 03:55
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More on shifting chat, I'm about 3k miles into a Mk7.5 GTI and feel OPs pain on having trouble - nailing that butter smooth as an automatic shift is still an enigma for me and whatever moves I try out are inconsistent. I can get a consistent smooth 1>2 shift from a red light by something like: Green light, ease off clutch while easing on gas, at about 2200rpm push in clutch pedal and shift, watch the Prius in front of me cruise away while I'm coasting at 15mph waiting for the tach to drop, moderate pace release clutch starting at ~1500rpm and gently ease gas pedal, everything settles now I can continue accelerating. Shifting early is easier to be smooth but car speed is grandma paced, shifting where it feels natural from other cars around 3200 I can inconsistently get pretty smooth now but have to watch the tach like a hawk and the sensitive gas pedal still makes it tough to keep steady inertia (like avoiding jerks from suddenly speeding up or slowing down instead of jerks from the transmission clunking in), or get into high rev range and it's a little easier again but then have to deal with the weird pacing of basically revving out 1st gear then switching to 3rd to cruise to the next red light. Someone asked about video of the rev hang I think? Found this on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBmscbuNOwg&t=289s Compared to an old Miata: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgmrzUAkeVI&t=113s The Golf you can see the person is in the next gear before the tach moves, on the Miata soon as their hand is moving the shifter the tach is dropping. I blame that for most of my trouble; sometimes on a shift the needle will pause then steadily drop, sometimes hold then fall fast, sometimes immediately it'll fall fast, all depending on a few factors with 1st>2nd usually being the worst. I hear getting a tune they can delete the hang and I was planning on waiting for warranty to be out to do that, but gyah it's getting tempting to just go ahead with the APR+ hopefully-they-cover-any-warrany-issues tune and get 4 more years of better shifting and HPs out of the car.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:21
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