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Thats not a bad suggestion, but I'm concerned I'll just break another bolt, and have a even bigger headache on my hands. That's another 6 bolts when one was this problematic. My hitch isn't the exact one in the ilustration wrt mounting to the chassis. Thanks though.
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Mar 9, 2021 16:16
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Have you tried drifting it out from the other direction? Also, you could probably stand to put the car down on its tires and really wail on the remains of the bolt. My next step would be to buy bigger drill bits. If you don't plan to keep trailer hitch, you could drill out larger than the hole and just obliterate the bolt. Use plenty of lubrication.
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Mar 9, 2021 16:22
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Yeah, drilling a 6mm hole in a 10mm bolt doesn't seem like it's going to weaken / loosen things enough to actually get it out if it's well and truly seized. If you're trying to save the threads in the hitch, you need to drill it out to something around the minor diameter of the threads. If not, just drill the whole loving thing.
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Mar 9, 2021 16:33
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Yeah, I'd go with bigger bits. Sounds like you already have a nice pilot hole. Are you able to rotate the J any with that second bolt gone?
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Mar 9, 2021 16:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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I don't plan on removing the hitch if I can at all help it. I only tried to remove it to take of a connector bracket that was sandwiched between it when it broke. I'm only trying to replace the bolt. The second bolt is still in, and I have no reason to think it would come out any easier. I've driven the bolt from both directions. The car needs to be lifted to swing a sledge under it. I think I have now mushroomed the bolt bad enough that it won't come out like that. Drilling it out completely seems like probably the best route now yeah. The pilot hole isn't quite straight though.Thanks everybody. [Edit] I guess I could also weld it all up and retire the car from trailer duties. I hate half-arsing like that though. Humbug fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 16:42
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Would a saw blade fit in between the hitch and the bracket? Otherwise I'd also go with a bigger drill bit  If you got the hitch out, you'd be able to use a press to push it out or other more violent methods vvv mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 16:54
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I might be able to fit the Fein in between. Not sure if it would help much though. I'm pretty sure the bolt is rusted stuck into the hitch itself. The brackets budged with the puller.
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Mar 9, 2021 17:08
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If you can remove the hitch, then you can get your car inspected and blast it with a torch at your leisure.
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Mar 9, 2021 17:12
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Safety Dance posted:If you can remove the hitch, then you can get your car inspected and blast it with a torch at your leisure. for whatever reason the OP is opposed to this
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Mar 9, 2021 17:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:for whatever reason the OP is opposed to this The OP also sounds like it's their first time trying to deal with rusty fasteners and they don't have adequate tools or techniques (the car is moving on the jack stands because it's being hit with a hammer...WHAT?) so they should take it to someone with an O/A torch who can have this entire thing sorted in under 60 seconds. Bolts can't be stuck when they're turned into a liquid.
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Mar 9, 2021 17:22
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Motronic posted:The OP also sounds like it's their first time trying to deal with rusty fasteners and they don't have adequate tools or techniques (the car is moving on the jack stands because it's being hit with a hammer...WHAT?) so they should take it to someone with an O/A torch who can have this entire thing sorted in under 60 seconds. Bolts can't be stuck when they're turned into a liquid. Won't that cause the surrounding metal to seriously warp and/or also turn to liquid?
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Mar 9, 2021 17:51
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Outrail posted:Won't that cause the surrounding metal to seriously warp and/or also turn to liquid? If you don't know how to use a torch/don't have an appropriate tip for the job, yeah. In general, no. Using the blue-tipped wrench to get bolts off of cars is exceptionally common when you live somewhere with salted roads.
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Mar 9, 2021 17:56
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Outrail posted:Won't that cause the surrounding metal to seriously warp and/or also turn to liquid? Not really. What you're doing is heating the metal up enough to break whatever rust bonds are holding the remains of the bolt in place (about 500c or 900f, maximum). That doesn't require enough heat to melt or permanently warp the steel (1500c or 2700f).
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Mar 9, 2021 17:57
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^^^^ But you can absolutely slag bolts out of assemblies without damaging the assembly if you know what you're doing.
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Mar 9, 2021 17:58
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I'm sorry if I disregarded anyone's suggestions. I've delt with rust before, and believe me I would like to oxy torch it all off. Covid lockdown makes that impractical however. The plastic bumper is also very close. These 6 bolts would need to come off on one side (so 12 total) to remove the hitch, and that seems like a lot of extra potential stripped and stuck bolts to me.  I don't think I can simply remove the hitch and get an inspection. it would require a new title without trailer capabilities. I'm in Europe and this is a TUV style inspection. Humbug fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 17:59
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It doesn't look like there's anything left to save there. I wouldn't tow with any of the pieces of that hitch in your photo.
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Mar 9, 2021 18:01
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I know it looks awful. Everything is very thick walled though, and the state inspection ok'd it. It is an inspection point.
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Mar 9, 2021 18:05
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I'm not sure if there's a better thread to put it in, but I'm looking at getting one of those canvas garage tents because working in the summer sun sucks and I refuse to even try working in the snow. Is there anything I should know about them going in, anything I should look for while shopping?
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Mar 9, 2021 18:15
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Humbug posted:I'm sorry if I disregarded anyone's suggestions. I've delt with rust before, and believe me I would like to oxy torch it all off. Covid lockdown makes that impractical however. The plastic bumper is also very close. What I had in mind was removing just the ball hitch part, which would allow you to leave the rest in peace. By sticking a saw in there: 
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Mar 9, 2021 18:26
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Using a sawzall to cut out big bolts is a loving nightmare. Might be an option to use a an angle grinder to cut the hitch out, cut the sides off the bolts and punch out the tiny disk. Then buy another ball hitch? Not sure if you have the room to do that though.
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Mar 9, 2021 18:33
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Motronic posted:If you don't know how to use a torch/don't have an appropriate tip for the job, yeah. In general, no. Using the blue-tipped wrench to get bolts off of cars is exceptionally common when you live somewhere with salted roads. FFS I had to do that down here on Brokeback, and I don't think it's ever lived in a salted area (the underbody is rust free aside from a little surface rust on fasteners; it spent most of its life in WA and rural BC, fucker even has the original muffler). Couldn't get the axle out of the hub, though it popped off of the trans fine. Removed the knuckle and threw it in a 20 ton press, bent the press. Blue tip torch finally got it to give up with the press cranked down on it, at the expense of a wheel bearing. .... I should replace that wheel bearing at some point. 
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Mar 9, 2021 20:26
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Is it my CV boot or steering leaking?
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Mar 10, 2021 00:33
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Chunks are usually axle grease but the answer is pobably 'both' IME
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Mar 10, 2021 00:35
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Chunks are usually axle grease but the answer is pobably 'both' IME Thanks, Subaru thread says CV boot too Can I drive on it until the weekend? Is it the sort of fix where you ask where your rent money's coming from this month, or fairly quick and easy? Could I do it myself in a weekend if I got the parts? What tools would I need? I'm not particularly experienced working on cars but don't mind getting my hands dirty and have changed clutches and brake pads with my dad
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Mar 10, 2021 00:59
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If you can jack the car up and keep in the air safely (on a jackstand, do not work under a car that is supported only on a jack) and have basic socket set and spanners, and youtube to watch a how-to, you can probably do it yourself. It's been fine for a while, it will almost certainly be fine until the weekend. Tricks for new players are getting the axle out of the diff, and getting the other end of the axle out of the hub can also be difficult. Watch a video first, you might not have the specialised tools you need for that, but you can generally kludge something together. I've got a thick-ish prybar with six inches cut off the end that I use to wedge them out of the diff by smacking it with a hammer, but you can get an axle popper tool that is designed for it. My experience with replacing CV boots is that you need to take the axle out anyway and that getting a remanufactured axle and putting that in is a little bit more expensive and insanely easier than doing just the CV boot, which has to be stretched over the CV joint. I've never used those split boots that you glue together but I've heard plenty of stories of them coming apart and dumping all of the grease out and loving the joint. Plus, you might have done the CV joint some damage by driving around on it without enough grease in the joint, and depending on the age of the car it might be worn enough to justify a reman axle anyway. This falls apart if you don't have a place nearby you can get the axle from or a way to get it with the axle out of the car, but (again, in my experience) places will sell you the axle and then give you the changeover refund back once you've switched them over.
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Mar 10, 2021 01:15
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simplefish posted:Thanks, Subaru thread says CV boot too It depends. You can probably drive it for a bit, especially if you can't hear it clicking in turns or on/off the gas. It's not a terrible job, but I say that as an impact gun owner in the rust-free lands. Axles are cheap 3rd party, but expensive from the dealer- but I and a lot of other Subaru owners have had bad luck with the aftermarket. Labor shouldn't be crazy (2 hours maybe?) if you take it to a shop. I've never tried to replace a boot, only chucked in axles. Tool wise, the only oddballs thing you might need (besides jack, stands, wrenches and a drift to drive the pins) would be a socket for the axle nut. I think that's like 32mm or something that's not found in most home toolkits.
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Mar 10, 2021 01:21
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I know there are Non-chlorinated brake cleaners, but do other types typically contain Trichloroethylene (TCE)?
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Mar 11, 2021 00:22
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Memento posted:If you can jack the car up and keep in the air safely (on a jackstand, do not work under a car that is supported only on a jack) and have basic socket set and spanners, and youtube to watch a how-to, you can probably do it yourself. It's been fine for a while, it will almost certainly be fine until the weekend. Tricks for new players are getting the axle out of the diff, and getting the other end of the axle out of the hub can also be difficult. Watch a video first, you might not have the specialised tools you need for that, but you can generally kludge something together. I've got a thick-ish prybar with six inches cut off the end that I use to wedge them out of the diff by smacking it with a hammer, but you can get an axle popper tool that is designed for it. Some Subarus use a roll pin to hold the axle to a stub on the transmission, instead of clicking into the inside. Have to drive that fucker out, cuss up a storm when you lose it (because the replacements are a PITA to get in compared to the used one), and if you're extra lucky, you break your punch or get it stuck. Odd # of splines too, so if you have the axle installed 180 degrees out, it'll LOOK like the holes lines up, but they don't.
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Mar 11, 2021 06:43
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Hi stupid question thread, I have one for you. How do I tell if a car has an LSD or not? I ask because I've had a quick look online and loads of people are saying "jack it up, spin a wheel, if the other one goes in the opposite direction it's an open diff" which I know is wrong because that happens on a car I have that only ever came with an LSD. So what's the magic trick aside from trying to do burnouts?
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Mar 12, 2021 15:09
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How to test it depends on how the LSD in question is supposed to work. A clutch type LSD should spin the wheels in the same direction. Something like a Jeep Varilok will freewheel for a rotation or two until it builds up enough pressure to lock, something like a GM GovLock probably won't ever lock up at any speed you could achieve by hand.
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Mar 12, 2021 15:51
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TL;DR Do burnouts
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Mar 12, 2021 16:46
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Motronic posted:TL;DR Do burnouts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kqm67gqOIk
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Mar 12, 2021 16:48
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If you don't want to actually do a burnout, stand on the throttle at the next driveway you pull out of that has water in the gutter.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:03
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Krakkles posted:If you don't want to actually do a burnout mods???
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Mar 12, 2021 18:25
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Hi stupid question thread, I have one for you. If you're lucky, an axle tag.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:38
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How much of a difference is there between a 13/32" and 25/64" drill bit? Asking because I'm installing a catalytic converter anti-theft shield to my '18 Prius V and the instructions call for "13/32" or 25/64" drill bit and I've never seen a manual recommend an "either or" for drill bit sizing. Are the two sizes basically identical? I mean they look fairly similar. Also- if I'm using a step drill bit to widen a hole in hardened steel what kind of material should the step drill bit be made out of? None of the step drill bits at the big orange give any sort of indicator as to what kind of material they can drill through. They mostly stock the black oxide step drill bits.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:49
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melon cat posted:How much of a difference is there between a 13/32" and 25/64" drill bit? Asking because I'm installing a catalytic converter anti-theft shield to my '18 Prius V and the instructions call for "13/32" or 25/64" drill bit and I've never seen a manual recommend an "either or" for drill bit sizing. Are the two sizes basically identical? I mean they look fairly similar. The difference would be 1/64th of an inch.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:51
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im going to preface by saying that you guys are great and gave good advice previously. backstory: wife drove over a median, bent a rim, ruined a tie rod. I got a new straight rim that matches from the auto wrecking link provided ($160 vs dealer price of $450) I put it in the back of the car and took it to the tire/alignment place. They were to do the tie rod and an alignment (total of about $200) The guy just called me and says "well what about this check engine light / low oil pressure warning?" Now that's the funny part because the car has never ever given me any of those warnings and I just had the oil changed in September (full synthetic ford recommended 7500 mile change interval, etc, it's had about 3000 miles since then) Are they trying to pull some poo poo? It seems to me that if the wifey just bent the rim (which are 20s by the way) the explorer has the ground clearance in the first place that with no large rocks or trees on the median (which there are not - I checked) there's not really any way she could have damaged the oil pan or any part of it otherwise. I feel like they are trying to drum up some business by manufacturing issues with my car that it did not have. they claim they ran the diagnostic and it says "misfire" advice, oh carwise goons?
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Mar 12, 2021 18:54
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melon cat posted:How much of a difference is there between a 13/32" and 25/64" drill bit? Deteriorata posted:The difference would be 1/64th of an inch. While 1/64" is pretty drat small and it's entirely likely it's correct, I would definitely question the skills of whoever designed that part. You're right that "either" drill size instructions are, uh, not common.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:56
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RE: drill bit sizing: thanks fellas. I'll contact the manufacturer and ask them what the deal is. Because not only do I need to widen the existing holes, but I also need to pop in some threaded rivets using a rivet nut tool (M6 mandrel). So the sizing really has to be perfect, and I'm guessing that a 1/64" of a differential could mess with the shield install. Also time to brush up on my compound fractions mathematics  otter posted:Are they trying to pull some poo poo? melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Mar 12, 2021 |
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Mar 12, 2021 19:11
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