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It got pretty cold yesterday, but it’s gotten cold before, and this seems relatively new. Change in temperature didn’t mess with the tires as far as I can tell. If it’s the temp change it’ll resolve over time, if it’s retraining I’ll look that up and try it.  If there’s nothing conceptually wrong with the fix I’ll see if I can squeeze the dealership and make them take a look.Anything I should watch out for in case it’s not just temperature/retraining? I definitely don’t wanna blow out a tire or anything.
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Mar 15, 2021 19:33
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If your tire pressure is good (meaning, verify it with a gauge on the tire - which it sounds like you did), what TPMS thinks is irrelevant. The only real path I can think of from what you've described to blowing out a tire is if the sensor/stem is somehow bad enough that it physically fails. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Mar 15, 2021 19:39
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Outrail posted:Ongoing investigation into why my fuel economy sucks rear end, week 12: Sounds like the brake shoes are dragging. Is that the rear wheel? It probably has brake shoes inside for the handbrake.
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Mar 15, 2021 19:56
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Krakkles posted:If your tire pressure is good (meaning, verify it with a gauge on the tire - which it sounds like you did), what TPMS thinks is irrelevant. The only real path I can think of from what you've described to blowing out a tire is if the sensor/stem is somehow bad enough that it physically fails. I wouldn't worry about it. “Physically fails” is why I included that note about it being kinda hard to get a reading, which I’ve never had to do on anything else ever. I have no idea what would make a valve like that be so annoying to work with, hence my suspicion about the repair’s quality. I’ll keep an eye on it...very sus.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:22
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Could be anything. Don't drive 90 until you get it looked at, but otherwise I don't think I'd change my behavior much. Get it looked at, don't sweat it too much.
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Mar 15, 2021 22:24
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spankmeister posted:Sounds like the brake shoes are dragging. Is that the rear wheel? It probably has brake shoes inside for the handbrake. Front wheel, Tacoma 1st get 4WD. I noticed it during the oil change a didn't get a chance to check the other. Does this mean I need a new rotor or brake pads? I've never had much/anything to do with brakes.
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Mar 15, 2021 23:56
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Outrail posted:Front wheel, Tacoma 1st get 4WD. I noticed it during the oil change a didn't get a chance to check the other. Does this mean I need a new rotor or brake pads? I've never had much/anything to do with brakes. Maybe its just bad luck, but I've always had a *little bit* of pad drag on all my cars. One thing you might wish to try is put a couple lug nuts on to secure the rotor flat against the hub and see if you get that noise. Can you disconnect the hubs from the rest of the axle? The effort (I'm not sure how those axles are set up) might be from having to turn the whole axle or some poo poo.
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Mar 16, 2021 01:01
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Nah definitely the rotor grinding against the brake stuff. I can hear the grinding and part of the rotation is kinda loose
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Mar 16, 2021 02:02
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Take the caliper off and see if you still have the same resistance, or less. Then look at your pads to see if one is more substantially worn than the other. Also, while you're in there, lube the caliper sliders.
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Mar 16, 2021 03:20
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Some drag is normal on disc brakes. If you have plenty of meat on your pads, it sounds fine. Run your fingernail edge along the disc from the hub out; on a perfect disc face, it should be mirror-smooth. Drums are supposed to rotate freely, with maybe a whisper of contact.
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Mar 16, 2021 03:54
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2000 Honda CR-V, got the bad driver door harness problem rearing its ugly head and has taken out my window, speaker, and power locks (and also I think fried my radio but we will see). You can see the plug in this video at the linked timestamp. I have ordered a new plug with pre-pinned wires and plenty of extra length to do a proper job of splicing it in, but I'd like to know the best way to get some strain relief for this connector without making the connector unserviceable (i.e. filling the back of it with rubber/glue or something). Heat shrink the first inch or so of wiring out of the connector? I have no idea really but I know there's a ton of wiring gurus in here who have rebuilt entire wiring harnesses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjH53DNdSgo&t=350s Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 06:58
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This is a truly stupid question: I moved, I have a new license plate, and I can't seem to remove my old one. 2015 Nissan Rogue, plate is attached with two hex screws. They turn easily but don't "come out", even when I'm applying pressure by pulling back on the plate. I've looked in the owner's manual and online and I can't find any indication that I'm supposed to remove paneling in order to get at the plate, but I'm kind of at a loss. I believed that I more or less understood screws, but here we are. Suggestions? Should I just move back?
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Mar 16, 2021 11:31
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There is likely a clip behind it that the screw screws into that is just spinning. You might have to cut off or drill that screw.
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Mar 16, 2021 11:44
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spankmeister posted:There is likely a clip behind it that the screw screws into that is just spinning. You might have to cut off or drill that screw. Where does that leave me when trying to attach the new plate? Either the current 'anchor' falls out of place, or it remains partially filled-up with the drilled or cut screw.
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Mar 16, 2021 12:18
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Home Depot, Lowe's, Autozone, etc all sell replacement nylon inserts for that screw (Lowe's has them a lot cheaper than a parts store). Try putting a flathead screwdriver directly behind the screw and applying pressure (against the head of the screw) while trying to remove it. That usually does it for me, but you're gonna need to replace the insert. It's stripped. You can usually pry them out if you have access from the backside, or just use a screwdriver to break it up until it falls inside the trunk. It's just nylon or plastic.
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Mar 16, 2021 12:38
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STR posted:Try putting a flathead screwdriver directly behind the screw and applying pressure (against the head of the screw) while trying to remove it. That usually does it for me, but you're gonna need to replace the insert. It's stripped. You can usually pry them out if you have access from the backside, or just use a screwdriver to break it up until it falls inside the trunk. It's just nylon or plastic. I assume I'll have to remove paneling on the inside of the hatch in order to get at this? (Plate is mounted on the vertical rear door hatch thing).
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Mar 16, 2021 13:12
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Probably. Or just break it up with a flathead screwdriver and replace it. It'll fall into the hatch and you can jam a new one in. Probably won't even rattle much. Or use a bigger screw when you put the new plate on. Or or, the car might have 4 holes instead of 2 - if that's the case, use the other two.
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Mar 16, 2021 14:30
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Why does everyone have to make things difficult? Epoxy the new plate to the old plate.
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Mar 16, 2021 15:18
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Impact driver question! I want a battery-powered impact. Years ago, I received a Milwaukee battery-powered rotary drill powered by the M12 FUEL battery type. It'd be convenient to stick with that for the impact, but they've only got the wee ones that handle just 250 lb/ft. I have an air impact driver than handles ~1k lb/ft and my question is if I get this 250 lb/ft driver, will I be busting out the air driver more often than not to handle stuff? I've been doing a lot of maintenance for my buddies, like brakes and whatnot, and I have a lot of suspension work to do on my 2005 Pilot.
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Mar 16, 2021 15:52
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scuz posted:Impact driver question! I think it’ll depend on how rusty of stuff you’re looking at. It’s going to have its limits, but I’d think the 1/2” would still be pretty capable. The M18 impact wrenches are more powerful, and you can get some good deals on them on eBay. Something worth considering too.
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Mar 16, 2021 16:14
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nitsuga posted:I think it’ll depend on how rusty of stuff you’re looking at. It’s going to have its limits, but I’d think the 1/2” would still be pretty capable. The M18 impact wrenches are more powerful, and you can get some good deals on them on eBay. Something worth considering too. Ah, should have mentioned that this car has spent its whole life in either North Dakota or Minnesota (where I live), so rust abounds. Edit (again:) Looks like this subject is being brought up in the tools thread so it might be better answered there. Thanks all the same, nitsuga! scuz fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 16:23
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I have a Ryobi that claims 300 ft/lbs, I've learned the hard way that it just means it'll snap bolts a little quicker. Even on my old rustheap car, it did pretty decent. Air tools did the job a lot faster so long as I had enough air, but I don't even have the luxury of decent power in my garage (apartment garage), so I'm stuck with cordless everything that I can charge inside unless I go to the DIY garage across town. forget what I said, I'm totally wrong. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 19:12
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The current red high-torque model does 1,400ft-lb (nut bustin) and my older 2763 does 700ft-lbs (both claimed idk in reality) and has been a complete game changer. I can't remember the last time it wouldn't undo a fastener that wasn't already rounded or turbofucked somehow. At $300 it's a steal and like one moderate DIY job will pay for it. ETA: this tool is so good and have literally never heard anyone complain about it or say 'wish I bought something else instead.' monsterzero fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 19:20
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Boys who love boys
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STR posted:I mean, on a cordless you're not going to get too much higher than that without going to something off of the tool truck (Snap On claims 600 ft/lbs). I don't think you're going to get much about 250-300lb-ft on 12v, but if you're willing to get 18v, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Milwaukee variety. I had the older (~700lb-ft) high torque model, ran into one bolt ever that it couldn't handle (steering/suspension on an HD truck), upgraded to the newer (~1000lb-ft tightening, 1400lb-ft loosening) model and haven't had the same problem. Edit: monsterzero posted:The current red high-torque model does 1,400ft-lb (nut bustin) and my older 2763 does 700ft-lbs (both claimed idk in reality) and has been a complete game changer. I can't remember the last time it wouldn't undo a fastener that wasn't already rounded or turbofucked somehow. At $300 it's a steal and like one moderate DIY job will pay for it.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:20
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M18 it is! Thanks, gents, I got my BidenBux™ on the way so that'll ease the decision-making process as well.
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Mar 16, 2021 19:43
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I'mma keep  ing because holy poo poo I love my impact gun.scuz posted:Impact driver question! I use a non-fuel M12 impact driver (not gun, the 1/4 hex one) for light work, basically as a gun-shaped ratchet/elctric screwdriver, and that's fine and handy but not a replacement for a big gently caress-off impact gun. I would not bother with anything less than a 1/2" impact gun if undoing rusty hardware was the job at hand. If you went with any of the M12 or impact drivers you'd be firing up the compressor a lot. FWIW, I feel like my impact gun works significantly better than any of the air tools I've used (including IR guns borrowed from a pro wrenching friend). Glad to be done with the 'turn up the regulator, let it charge, give it some extra oil bullshit' that used to be part of the game. ETA: scuz posted:M18 it is! Thanks, gents, I got my BidenBux™ on the way so that'll ease the decision-making process as well. Hell yeah!
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Mar 16, 2021 19:43
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otter posted:im going to preface by saying that you guys are great and gave good advice previously. Which engine? OBD2 readers are cheap. You can check yourself with the Android app Torque or similar for Apple depending on your phone ecosystem. A damaged oil pan should be extremely obvious. If it's turbo maybe an oil cooler line or similar got loose. Ask for pictures.
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Mar 16, 2021 20:15
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Wrar posted:Which engine? 3.5L V6 It turned out it was the sensor. $15 part. $65 for labor. My car is healed (mostly. I still need to replace the fog light that she busted out)
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Mar 16, 2021 20:32
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OBD-1 reading, does everyone here just use the paperclip method or is there some adapter for a OBD-2 reader that makes it easier for the lazy man who has no normal use for paperclips and a propensity to lose small things? I just got my 1994 Subaru SVX home and it popped a CEL on the way, I'm guessing it's either the low ATF or the clogged air filter so I bought more ATF and a new filter. I still get the feeling I will be able to get use out of a reader considering I now own an early '90s bubble economy halo car.
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Mar 16, 2021 21:21
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You'd get an AT TEMP or similar light for any transmission codes on most Subarus (it's AT OIL TEMP on mine, I think). OBD-1 follows no standards, paperclip method or an old dealer-specific Subaru tool are your only options for DIY.Krakkles posted:Milwaukee does 1000lb-ft on cordless in the realm of reason, and 2000 if you're not loving around (iirc, it's ~$1400, which, in the scheme of things, isn't that much). Uh, disregard what I said earlier then. $1400 is a shitload more than the $100 I dropped on mine though. I think mine's 18-20V, but it's still a lovely Ryobi. I might have to look into Milwaukee. I'm not overly attached to Ryobi.. and I think Lowe's sells Milwaukee. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 21:33
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STR posted:Uh, disregard what I said earlier then. $1400 is a shitload more than the $100 I dropped on mine though. I think mine's 18-20V, but it's still a lovely Ryobi. They're not cheap, but they're so worth it. I couldn't find evidence that Milwaukee is sold at Lowes on their site, but who knows! The $1400 one is probably either pro-level "I actually need 2000lb-ft" or "I'm a dumb rich guy", and from that POV ... yeah, $1400 isn't much. It's too rich for me, for sure, though.
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Mar 16, 2021 21:54
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The 2000 reverse, 1900 forward milwaukee impact is a 1 inch drive.
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Mar 16, 2021 22:47
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Jesus. 1400-ft/lbs? I am fortunate enough to have a garage with a 60-gallon Champion in the loft (dates from the early 50s, picked it up at a yard sale for $65) so I've got an adequate airline system. When I installed all of that 15-years ago, I gave zero thought to electric automotive tools. Now, my son just bought a house with no garage, so I'll probably set him up with these Milwaukee tools. I suppose if my compressor ever shits the bed, I might convert. Getting that thing up there was a PITA.
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Mar 17, 2021 02:04
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STR posted:You'd get an AT TEMP or similar light for any transmission codes on most Subarus (it's AT OIL TEMP on mine, I think). OBD-1 follows no standards, paperclip method or an old dealer-specific Subaru tool are your only options for DIY. Ah, okay, I thought there might at least be some thing that would let me plug in and then it would pop out a 11 or 31 or whatever the flash code comes out to, and then I can check against the vehicle-specific codes. No such luck I guess. Maybe I'll make one and stick it in my glove box so I don't lose it as quickly. No AT-related light has come on, so that's good, I think? These things are known for transmission problems. I checked the fluid levels and they must have topped it off as a courtesy because it's full now. Replaced the air filter on break from work and the light is still coming on but if it was an air-related code I'm not sure how long it would take to clear. Would be funny if it's whatever the OBD1 code is for "loose gas cap" but I doubt I'm that lucky.
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Mar 17, 2021 03:25
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PainterofCrap posted:Jesus. 1400-ft/lbs? You drain the tank regularly right? I've seen some truly horrifying compressor tank explosions... And that's really old.
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Mar 17, 2021 04:00
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Will I ever find a Rav4 with a manual transmission, used, in the US, or should I give up now and eat automatic poo poo?
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Mar 17, 2021 04:18
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My aunt has had several, they're out there. More common on older ones though.
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Mar 17, 2021 04:36
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A quick scan of cars.com turned up several. Nothing newer than 2005, though.
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Mar 17, 2021 04:37
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kastein posted:You drain the tank regularly right? I've seen some truly horrifying compressor tank explosions... And that's really old. I push about a pint out every six months. It doesn't run very often. Turds in magma posted:Will I ever find a Rav4 with a manual transmission, used, in the US, or should I give up now and eat automatic poo poo? Where are you? A quick search turned up a few: https://www.carfax.com/Used-2005-Toyota-RAV4_z16889 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 04:38
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arg 
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Mar 17, 2021 04:40
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