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PaintVagrant posted:Nice. The tune sounds worth it for sure. Is this a gen1 or gen2 coyote? Mine's a 2018, first year of the gen 3, when they added direct injection and raised the redline to 7400rpm. Stock HP is 460, up from 435 in the gen 2.
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Mar 5, 2021 17:10
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opengl128 posted:Mine's a 2018, first year of the gen 3, when they added direct injection and raised the redline to 7400rpm. Stock HP is 460, up from 435 in the gen 2. Sick!
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Mar 5, 2021 17:37
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That dyno chart is pretty funny without the scale but it appears to be 50 per line on the vertical scale.
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Mar 5, 2021 20:14
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Less today, more earlier in the week. Coolant pump started leaking on the farm truck, which lol knew that was gonna poo poo itself at some point, because well, it's a coolant pump, they do that sorta thing.  It's 50mi to town, 50mi to where I want to fix the vehicle. Phoned up Ford and the local parts houses to get everything lined up. Gonna cruise through and take care of it all. Almost made it. Pump exploded just before the tollbooth.  2" of runout, the pump pulley is flopping around like a fish out of the water.  No flat bed tow as it weighs almost 7 tons. No class 8 tow because $lol-involuntary-butt-loving. Dropping the camper in high winds is a recipe for breaking it too. I'll fix it right here! Well ok maybe not *right there*  This spot is better for servicing the vehicle. Phone up a rental agency, they have a minivan ready for us by noon. It's 11:30. Pull the bikes down and let's ride 11mi to them.  Lol at all the coolant loss. Just lol. 4 of its 6 gallons are on the road. Spouse runs warm so we take little breaks.  Not pictured: the rental is a Chrysler Voyager. Picked the car up at 3pm, even though we were there at 12:30p. I'm starving now. Run by Ford, Grab the parts, Run by the parts stores and home centers to grab additional parts and supplies. gently caress, bonk-o-clock.  Trash food for a trash fire day First up on the docket is the thermostat. Welp, this one isn't genuine. That's part of this trucks problem. I had assumed most of the cooling system was still original. How wrong I was.  This is the new one. Its rubberized, has a larger flow port, and is designed to do some really wonky-international things that no aftermarket one does. The pill recesses into a special port in the block for some flow/more accurate temp control. Cool.  Why is an AC Hellco pump on a Navistar? Holdovers from its days on the farm. I'm surprised it hasn't blown up sooner.  The impeller fell off when I removed the pump. That's a new one. Definitely AISS goodies right here.  So all the bolts are specific to their homes, and 4 get RTV on the threads because they just dead end in the timing cover and it'll gently caress everything up if you don't. It's about 7:30pm or so now, dark, cold, and windy. To avoid any issues, I'm gonna make a cardboard template with the new pump so that I can hold the bolts in their right homes so that I don't have to keep that bit in my memory. Ford gave me a pump for a 7.3 Powerstroke. poo poo. Spouse calls up every parts house in town and drives off to get the right pump, an hour away one way. While he's gone I prep the timing cover/mating surfaces. The old pump had a lot of RTV on it and lol yeah every hinky dink farmer does that poo poo. Paper gasket + a tube and a half of the good old acid based psychedelic colored rtvs. Whatever, In this house we use the paper gasket for sealing. But drat this timing cover looks bad. Lots of cavitation damage. Makes me wonder about cylinders 7 & 8 that are renown for pinholing through the bore from cavitation. I'm betting the day I turn the turbo up to 20PSI on this thing it's gonna let go. That's fine, I'll deal with that then.   Blew up so spectacularly it pushed coolant through the firewall pass throughs.  The right pump arrives.I throw the right blockoffs and heater outlets on it, throw the gasket on and hoist it into service.  I am glad I added toolbox lights in 2019. Nothing ever breaks when its convenient for you, so try and be nice to future you, they're having a bad day.  Pump on, engine back together. holding coolant, start it up, warm it up. GREAT all things go. Shut it off, i hear this tiny hissing. eh? Pinhole leak at the pump to timing cover mating surface. ffffaaack. Have no fear, the farm mechanic is here!   quick-set RTV and it stopped leaking. I'll be paying for that later. Midnight "dinner" at a truck stop nearby.   It runs cooler than it did under cruising. Seems I can soak 5-10% more heat (EGT vs ECT) into the system before temps start to runaway.  Things I've learned being broken down in Las Vegas. I left this place at the end of 2014. At that time There were several off road oriented shops that dgaf what you brought in, they'd deal with you if you have the money. It's not the case anymore. I ran into the "it's too old, we don't support it" case at nearly every outfit I ran into. The 4wd/offroad culture has fundamentally changed. If its not a new lifted jeep or superduty on a 84 month note, they're not interested in your money. Ford's parts counter was just downright unwilling to get me the right oem pump, even though I was paying double in person over what they had quoted me in an email for the same part number. I was a little pissed at the whole loving me on the part, though I want oem parts. I don't want some chap aftermarket piece of poo poo cooling my engines. If this had failed just days or weeks prior I'd have been riding nearly 100 miles to town to get a car. In the desert that is a death sentence. Whatever the case, I'm carrying two of everything now. It's funny because 7 years ago I could walk into the rover or benz dealer there, chat up the service guys, and get just about any piece i needed for the vehicle. Ford? nope. Buy our Mach-e, or the 775hp F150. We're a finance department, not a parts counter. We don't give a gently caress about your functionally-restored old f-series even though we use a model-A as a marketing gimmick. I was gonna have the same company I used to build big rear end radiators for high stress offroad toys to build a big rear end radiator for the truck, They never returned my calls/email. I'll get some AG shop to deal with it in Ohio or some poo poo where they're hungry to make some money.
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Mar 6, 2021 19:34
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Where'd the right pump end up coming from? Also I really like that you call it a coolant pump, though it threw me for a loop at first.  Also I think you need a backup vehicle, like a road legal dirt bike. cursedshitbox posted:If this had failed just days or weeks prior I'd have been riding nearly 100 miles to town to get a car. In the desert that is a death sentence.
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Mar 6, 2021 19:52
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angryrobots posted:Where'd the right pump end up coming from? Also I really like that you call it a coolant pump, though it threw me for a loop at first. "murray" brand from O'reilly auto. Probably gonna order one of these in the next day or three after I sort a shipping address. https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/1664-1983-1994-ford-420-445-water-pump I've two motos. Current idea is to get a 30ish foot long gooseneck flatbed, transfer the camper to that, and put the bikes behind the camper. Then the bikes can be used for errands/supplies, and also ease of uncoupling the tow vehicle. The hill I pulled going over MountainSprings (3000' climb/15mi ~4.5% average. 40mph/7tons.)yesterday shows my next kink in the system is intercooling the charge flow, which I knew that. A backup 4wd costs as much as a trailer, and will have every problem of a 200k mile 30 year old 4wd vehicle. I'm unwilling to deal with that without a proper shop, much less pay the exorbitant prices of used cars right now. The two bikes are proven and can nearly anything.
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Mar 6, 2021 20:10
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That sounds like a poo poo show of a day. How long did it last from from start to end?angryrobots posted:Also I think you need a backup vehicle, like a road legal dirt bike.
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Mar 6, 2021 20:11
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Hughmoris posted:That sounds like a poo poo show of a day. How long did it last from from start to end? 12 hours from the point of total failure to the time of sitting down with "dinner" My "street legal dirtbike"  I miss this big stupid bastard. and a thread related album of finding its broken cam chain tensioner from 2020. It was probably broken for a year or better before I caught it. https://imgur.com/a/EJ6aKNG E: during the whole charade, kept coming back to the "yeah we need the bikes because this would have been a lot easier". Could have uncoupled and driven the truck to town...etc.. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 20:21
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opengl128 posted:Installed the hardware for the Ford Performance tune today. Still need to load the tune itself. Had a chance to load the tune today and go for a drive.  Impressions: - Noticeable power bump pretty much where advertised, around 2k RPM. Really nice for around town mid throttle driving. - Rev hang on upshifts still there, but 90% better. I can actually be smooth when shifting at higher RPMs, instead of sitting and waiting for the revs to drop to grab the next gear. So in turn, you can accelerate and shift faster. - Full throttle pulls do feel a little quicker too. This one is a little hard to say since I've been driving my 130hp beater for the past couple months, so of course the Mustang feels fast in comparison. - With the exhaust valves open, I get a nice little bark on full throttle upshifts now. It's silly but it makes me smile. Supposedly it gets even better once you run a few tanks of gas through it, so I'll see how it feels after that. I'm WFH full time still so it barely gets driven, but since it's finally warming up I should be able to get out for weekend drives more often now.
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Mar 7, 2021 23:12
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Re-gapped the spark plugs on my Ecoboost truck down to .030”. It’s been missing under hard acceleration since I changed the plugs and gapped them with an old-school gap tool, which was apparently garbage. I checked with my new feeler gauge set that I hadn’t disassembled and lost half of the gauges, and the .035” slid in easily. They were .040” or bigger, way out of spec, especially since I have a performance tune on the truck. I’ll see if it makes a difference tomorrow morning.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:31
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I replaced the exterior passenger door handle on my Ranger yesterday. I never really took a close look at all the linkages and mechanisms in a door latch, it was interesting.
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Mar 8, 2021 14:10
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AFewBricksShy posted:I replaced the exterior passenger door handle on my Ranger yesterday. I never really took a close look at all the linkages and mechanisms in a door latch, it was interesting. I had to replace the motor on the power windows on an Astro van once. There's a bunch of sharp poo poo under high pressure in the scissor lift and if I'd been half a second less observant I'd have fewer fingers now.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:11
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Midwestern end links. Had to replace a dead 10-15 year old HF angle grinder (sometimes it would come on with the switch, or come on a few seconds later  ) part way through the process.  And also some rear shocks (completely painless, surprisingly) and a couple oil changes. Doesn't sound like much but enough for my back, heh.
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Mar 9, 2021 22:26
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 Drove the S2000 after sitting for four months under a cover. Yesterday I did an oil change and today I put on a new rear exhaust gasket since my old one looked like this:  Swapped the VTEC positions in the garage. 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 22:40
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I disabled the auto stop/start feature by unplugging a connector and then ziptied it in a secure, not gonna get damaged spot so it's easily put back to stock. You can press a button every time you turn on the car to turn this off but still will be a nice quality of life improvement. Nothing too fancy but hey.
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Mar 12, 2021 03:03
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Do you like wasting fuel or something?
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Mar 12, 2021 06:45
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dissss posted:Do you like wasting fuel or something? I guess I could have clarified. I would happily leave it on if I was running an auto trans but the way Jag designed the system for the F-Type you have to have the trans in neutral and take your foot off the brake for the engine to start back up and since the parking/e-brake is just an electronic button you can't hold the car on a hill during this process so you have to time everything just right to have the engine start up so you can shift into gear before you roll back. Since I live in a somewhat hilly area and work from home I'm rarely doing stop/start traffic where I'd see MPG savings.
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Mar 12, 2021 07:25
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 why do you have to be in neutral? Nowadays it's pretty seamless leaving it in drive and I barely notice it on most cars.
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Mar 12, 2021 13:41
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Since when did germans start designing jags?
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Mar 12, 2021 14:03
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When I was in Ireland Christmas 2019, I rented a Ford Focus that did the exact same thing. Freaked me the gently caress out when it happened. I tried to use it again, but you're right, clutch, 1st, go takes to long vs sitting in 1st in lights.
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Mar 12, 2021 14:17
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Suburban Dad posted:
Because "drive" doesn't exist on a manual transmission? Still stupid though. When I'm driving manual, I tend to shift into 1st just before I expect to take off (i.e. I see the opposing light change to red), and apparently that's a no-go on tangy's car - you have to put it in neutral, AND take your foot off the brake, for it to restart. Add in the electronic parking brake that's all or nothing, and whoever designed that system has obviously never had to deal with taking off from a stop on a hill (and should be forced to drive that car on nothing but uphill stop and go traffic for the rest of their lives). That's gonna be a hell of a lot of rollback. Imagine driving that in San Francisco (I know the US doesn't have many, if any, auto stop-start cars with manual transmissions, but even an auto is still going to roll back pretty good on the SF hills WITH the engine running, unless you're already giving it a little bit of gas as you let off the brake). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Mar 12, 2021 |
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Mar 12, 2021 14:30
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STR posted:whoever designed that system has obviously never had to deal with taking off from a stop on a hill (and should be forced to drive that car on nothing but uphill stop and go traffic for the rest of their lives). Whoever designed this system was told to do so the fastest and cheapest they could within the bound of <insert liability constraints from corporate legal here> so a box could be checked, and make sure to make it easy to disable.
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Mar 12, 2021 16:31
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tangy yet delightful posted:I disabled the auto stop/start feature by unplugging a connector and then ziptied it in a secure, not gonna get damaged spot so it's easily put back to stock. You can press a button every time you turn on the car to turn this off but still will be a nice quality of life improvement. Nothing too fancy but hey. +1 for disabling lovely auto start/stop systems. The system on my 18 Tiguan is absolute garbage and takes roughly 1-2 seconds to start the engine back up after you put your foot on the gas. I immediately disable it anytime I get in the car.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:10
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STR posted:Because "drive" doesn't exist on a manual transmission? Derp, didn't see that. Still, all you need is a brake position switch...Once below like 10-20% brake travel, start it back up. That's what most of them do. Still might be an issue for inclines but in that case it should have hill hold. Having to have your foot off the brake seems really asinine.
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Mar 12, 2021 18:29
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tangy yet delightful posted:I guess I could have clarified. I would happily leave it on if I was running an auto trans but the way Jag designed the system for the F-Type you have to have the trans in neutral and take your foot off the brake for the engine to start back up and since the parking/e-brake is just an electronic button you can't hold the car on a hill during this process so you have to time everything just right to have the engine start up so you can shift into gear before you roll back. Since I live in a somewhat hilly area and work from home I'm rarely doing stop/start traffic where I'd see MPG savings. Lol what a crazy implementation. On my MT Mazda the stop start kicked in as soon as put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out then the engine started again as soon as you started pushing the clutch pedal.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:22
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Replaced fuel filter and radiator on the WJ. One of the filters fittings is a real bitch. The radiator I just replaced 4 years ago. Advance auto replaced it no questions asked after I looked it up in my order history on a whim because I forgot where I got it from. Of course I would have liked to not be doing the job so soon in the first place. Funny thing was the same replacement was $30 cheaper than when I bought it. Probably more corners cut.
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Mar 13, 2021 23:59
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C-Bangin' it 
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dissss posted:Lol what a crazy implementation. That’s how it was on my 2015 Focus 1.0 6-speed. I actually really liked it, and was confused when people would bitch about auto start/stop until I drove something else. I forget what I drove recent that had it, some rental... it was much more annoying in an auto than my manual Focus.
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Mar 14, 2021 05:41
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Took the Forester XT out for a drive today. Had a WRX driving along the same route as me from behind as we make our way to the Parkway where we dodge and duck our way through the Sunday traffic. After several miles on the Parkway and I'm about to take my exit, the WRX slowly passes me and I see the driver throwing devil horns.  Of course, I was driving to my grandma's funeral so this was a good way to start the day. 
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Mar 15, 2021 00:55
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Good news, removed the ford sync usb interface module and the replacement I had bought worked, confirming that the no carplay problem was just a broke USB interface piece. Bad news, bought the wrong replacement part: 
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Mar 15, 2021 02:05
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I fried my main ECU fuse! I was a complete idiot, zoned out and crossed my battery leads for a fraction of a second. Which was all it took. Not a great fuse to have to track down on a Sunday. Exhausted all auto parts stores. Moving on to industrial supply shops tomorrow.
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Mar 15, 2021 03:22
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That's uh, your main fuse, period. Hopefully that fuse is all that popped.  If it actually starts after a new fuse, budget for a new alternator sometime soon.
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Mar 15, 2021 13:13
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loving proved I'm not crazy to myself. Busted out the string with my wheel dead centered. The gaps and contact points are no where near even. The passenger side is perfectly flat wheel to wheel and the drivers side is toed in like 3/16" and the rear wheel has a bit of toe not present in the passenger side. Right side: no gaps (very slight) Front of front right tire  Front of rear right tire  Left side: lol Front of front left tire  Front of rear left tire:  The last three shots are with the lens in plane with the sidewall, I couldn't get a much better angle, but drat I'm irritated not one shop thinks my car has an alignment issue when my tires look like that in one year after suspension work. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 18:24
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STR posted:If it actually starts after a new fuse, budget for a new alternator sometime soon. Why? Can you explain this? I've done this on both my motorcycle and car, with no ill effects other than the main fuse. Yes, I am in fact an idiot sometimes. What harm can it do to the alternator when the engine isn't turning? Broken current sensor or rectifier?
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Mar 15, 2021 20:26
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When you do that, you send several hundred amps (500+ if your battery is in good shape) backwards through the rectifier before the fuse pops. And McTinkerson's fuse is absolutely VAPORIZED, complete with scorch marks - that fucker was trying to weld for a split second. Remember that's ~12 volts doing that. That was a dead short, and it was across both the alternator and nearly every piece of electronics in the car that had any kind of power with the key off. Most car electronics don't have reverse current protection - if that main fuse pops before any electronics do, you got off extremely lucky. Usually the alternator and stereo are the first to go. To stay on topic:  I get that a Cruze is essentially a Daewoo, but using loving Torx screws on the door panels?  Surprised friend was able to get her window to roll up as far as she did (she taped up the gaps once it wouldn't move anymore). I'm pretty sure the tape she used to cover the gaps in the rain were all that were holding the window up, the regulator came out of the door in multiple pieces. The window itself was held up just by the tape (and Facebook likes and prayers), the cables were detached by the time I got to it.It's a 2015. I made the mistake of using an OEM GM window regulator, so I suspect I'll be back in here in a year or two. At least it's a dead simple regulator to replace.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Mar 16, 2021 19:00
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GM cable driven regulators get the crown for shittiness.
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Mar 16, 2021 22:14
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Every Honda got touched today. ‘19 Si got more oil added and an engine bay/undercarriage degreasing. In my post-Covid-vaccine delirium on Sunday I did an oil change and forgot to put the cap back on. No big deal, just a quart of loss and lots of cursing at myself. S2000 got a new test pipe   EP3 Si got a new shift boot   Del Sol got a new license plate. Only took PA 6 months to send it... 
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Mar 16, 2021 22:23
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That plates awesome.
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Mar 16, 2021 23:17
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new cooling pump arrived so that I don't need to trust a local parts store generic with my house, spouse, or my life.   (GMB housing with a flowkooler impeller)Its legit too nice for the engine it'll get bolted to.
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Mar 17, 2021 00:50
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Colostomy Bag posted:GM cable driven regulators get the crown for shittiness. No joke there. I've dealt with Toyota cable driven regulators, but at least they last a hell of a lot longer (and it was a single track regulator with a single cable.. mechanically simpler). I asked her if it had ever made any popping noises or seemed to bind up (the cables had obviously been mangled more than once), she said it did a few times over the past few months. So she now knows to order another regulator the moment it makes that first pop. Upside is I was just looking into the timing belt job on it to see how much it would be for her (I'm not willing to do that job on anyone's car except my own)... and only the LS (1.8) and diesels have a timing belt. The 1.4 turbo doesn't. So that's good news. Now to figure out why the schrader on the fuel rail decided to start leaking, and if just the schrader is replaceable.. e: well poo poo, a complete OEM GM fuel rail with new injectors is all of $83. That's probably the best route to take with the fuel rail starting to leak. Can't even get it without the injectors. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Mar 17, 2021 16:18
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In the age of the silentChain (aka skippaTeeth) not having a belt isn't really a guarantee anymore to not have to do a timing job after 60k miles.
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Mar 17, 2021 19:35
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