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PainterofCrap posted:I push about a pint out every six months. It doesn't run very often. I'm in upstate NY. I want something at least 10 years newer than that. Back in Canada manual transmissions were reasonably popular on the old 4x4 tercels - do they really just not make many manual Rav4s?
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 13:02 |
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# ? May 12, 2024 09:48 |
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kastein posted:You drain the tank regularly right? I've seen some truly horrifying compressor tank explosions... And that's really old. PainterofCrap posted:I push about a pint out every six months. It doesn't run very often.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 15:47 |
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Turds in magma posted:I'm in upstate NY. I want something at least 10 years newer than that. Back in Canada manual transmissions were reasonably popular on the old 4x4 tercels - do they really just not make many manual Rav4s? Toyota hasn't offered a manual RAV4 since the XA20 which went out of production in 2004. If you want a manual, AWD compact crossover built in the last ten years, your choices are basically a Subaru Crosstrek/Forester, or if you stretch your opinion of crossovers I guess the Golf Alltrack.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 16:16 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Toyota hasn't offered a manual RAV4 since the XA20 which went out of production in 2004. CRV had a manual option for a while, but I think the cutoff is about the same as the RAV's.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 18:34 |
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Snip nah I'm just flat-out wrong, disregard.
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 17, 2021 |
# ? Mar 17, 2021 19:28 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Toyota hasn't offered a manual RAV4 since the XA20 which went out of production in 2004. Get a real 4wd or get a AWD astrovan imo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etrjS8dYeFc
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 19:42 |
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Anyone here with a 2016 Ford vehicle who can tell me how I know if I have an updated USB hub that will allow Sync 3 to work with Apple CarPlay? My (used) f150 has a double USB hub with the white borders but I dont know if the original USB hubs have that or not or if theres another way to figure it out. I wont know for sure otherwise until I update Sync 3 to version 3.3 or whatever it is now, as the info section shows it is like 2.0 and it hasnt checked for an update since...2016. Cant imagine that I do have the required USB hub if Sync 3 isnt even updated enough to work with CarPlay, unless Ford shipped vehicles later in 2016 that already had the hub factory installed Fake edit: I guess 2.0 technically would work with CarPlay so Im taking a wild guess I probably do need to update the hub, but updating to sync 3 3.4 will be the first step
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 19:46 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Toyota hasn't offered a manual RAV4 since the XA20 which went out of production in 2004. So wikipedia seems to think that everything up to and including the XA50 come in a 6-speed manual, but maybe only international (non-US) markets? Certainly if I try to "configure" one on toyota.com there's no option for a manual transmission for any of the models.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 20:25 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Toyota hasn't offered a manual RAV4 since the XA20 which went out of production in 2004. The Outback was available with a manual through at least 2014, though they're rare.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 20:55 |
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Turds in magma posted:So wikipedia seems to think that everything up to and including the XA50 come in a 6-speed manual, but maybe only international (non-US) markets? Certainly if I try to "configure" one on toyota.com there's no option for a manual transmission for any of the models. "No manual transmission or diesel engines are available on North American models."
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 21:27 |
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life is killing me posted:Anyone here with a 2016 Ford vehicle who can tell me how I know if I have an updated USB hub that will allow Sync 3 to work with Apple CarPlay? My (used) f150 has a double USB hub with the white borders but I dont know if the original USB hubs have that or not or if theres another way to figure it out. I wont know for sure otherwise until I update Sync 3 to version 3.3 or whatever it is now, as the info section shows it is like 2.0 and it hasnt checked for an update since...2016. You're mostly likely going to need the updated hub. You can pop yours out real quick and check the part number though. F-150 forum seems to say that all 2016 models need the updated hub regardless. https://www.f150forum.com/f118/current-sync-3-carplay-android-auto-information-360660/
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 21:39 |
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skipdogg posted:You're mostly likely going to need the updated hub. You can pop yours out real quick and check the part number though. F-150 forum seems to say that all 2016 models need the updated hub regardless. Thanks. Was mostly wondering if the previous owner had done it, but so far it isnt working on 2.0, the first update that worked with CarPlay.
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# ? Mar 17, 2021 22:48 |
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2011 Mazda 3, any idea what would be causing a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger wheel well? The noise goes away when I'm on the brake pedal. Nothing appears to be loose or rubbing from casual inspection, at least.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 01:21 |
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Casu Marzu posted:2011 Mazda 3, any idea what would be causing a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger wheel well? The noise goes away when I'm on the brake pedal. Nothing appears to be loose or rubbing from casual inspection, at least. Does it rattle all the time or just when you go over a bump? I had a brake caliper that I forgot to tighten all the way, and it would rattle over bumps, unless I had the brakes on. If you have a parking brake mechanism in the caliper, and you checked with the parking brake on, you might not have noticed that the caliper was loose, since it was clamped to the rotor.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 02:20 |
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STR posted:OBD-1 follows no standards, paperclip method or an old dealer-specific Subaru tool are your only options for DIY. Follow-up on this, turns out on my car there are a couple of wires right next to the diagnostic plug that you stick in one to read the codes and two to clear the codes, my only question is why is this not how everyone did it? It makes so much sense.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 04:25 |
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Turds in magma posted:So wikipedia seems to think that everything up to and including the XA50 come in a 6-speed manual, but maybe only international (non-US) markets? Certainly if I try to "configure" one on toyota.com there's no option for a manual transmission for any of the models. I had "In the US" in there at one point but it looks like I snipped it out.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 13:08 |
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wesleywillis posted:Does it rattle all the time or just when you go over a bump? I think it's mostly when I go over a bump, sometimes I think I hear it rattling when at low speed, say under 15mph like in a parking lot. I always keep the parking brake on, so if it is the caliper, I'm guessing that's why I missed it before. I'll take a look next time I get down there. Thanks!
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 13:26 |
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Casu Marzu posted:I think it's mostly when I go over a bump, sometimes I think I hear it rattling when at low speed, say under 15mph like in a parking lot. I lost a brake caliper (as in it came free and lodged itself against the wheel) when I had similar symptoms, so itd be worth the 15 minutes itd take to check sooner than later.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 13:33 |
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nitsuga posted:I lost a brake caliper (as in it came free and lodged itself against the wheel) when I had similar symptoms, so itd be worth the 15 minutes itd take to check sooner than later. Good point. My dad's car had the rear brakes done a few years back, and the caliper bolts came loose, similar thing happened after a bump or something. Lost the caliper and hosed up the flex line. Luckily my brother was driving (he's a really fuckin good driver) and not my dad, who is also a good driver, but is getting old and doesn't have the reaction times of us young'uns.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 22:22 |
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wesleywillis posted:Good point. My dad's car had the rear brakes done a few years back, and the caliper bolts came loose, similar thing happened after a bump or something. Yes, luckily it finally gave way cruising at 25 mph on a side street. Its not a good position to be in. It was very much my fault too (tried to hustle through the job and gave them a good grunt rather than the specified torque), but luckily I only ended up poorer, not injured.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 23:07 |
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Does the brake pad indicator that squeals when it needs to be replaced squeal when you brake or when the car is in motion? Asking because I hear a squeal only when my car is moving but not when braking.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 23:12 |
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Budget Dracula posted:Does the brake pad indicator that squeals when it needs to be replaced squeal when you brake or when the car is in motion? It's a piece of metal that touches your rotor, so yes....the rotor needs to be moving to hear it, which means the wheel(s) need to be spinning. Are you saying that when you car is in motion you hear squealing but that stops when you car is still in motion if you are applying the brakes?
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 23:17 |
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I've got the Mazda 3 from a couple of pages ago, took it to my mechanic and he said it definitely sounded like my lifters. He said it was a total pain in the rear end to change them and that the amount of time it would take for him (1 man shop, single space garage) to do it he'd end up having to charge ~$1000, which is probably better saved up for a clutch down the line. Is there a consensus on running seafoam in the oil to quiet down loud lifters? I'm seeing people reccomend that in other places but I'm pretty skeptical of those quick fixes and don't want to cause any damage.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 23:51 |
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Motronic posted:It's a piece of metal that touches your rotor, so yes....the rotor needs to be moving to hear it, which means the wheel(s) need to be spinning. Ya it squeals when I am not applying the brakes, applying the brakes dont seem to make the sound increase in a way that you would think hey that guy needs his brakes replaced.
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# ? Mar 18, 2021 23:58 |
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Budget Dracula posted:Ya it squeals when I am not applying the brakes, applying the brakes dont seem to make the sound increase in a way that you would think hey that guy needs his brakes replaced. Your experience may vary.
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 00:08 |
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wesleywillis posted:Does it rattle all the time or just when you go over a bump? I poke around the brakes today and everything felt solid. It was way too cold and windy to jack it up in a parking lot and take the wheel off. I'm pretty sure it's not a loose caliper though. Not a big deal though. With covid and all I drive like 3 miles a week and I can just use my partner's Jeep in the meantime. I'm currently shopping for new tires, so I'm just gonna have the garage take a look when I get the tires put on.
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 04:27 |
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95 subaru impreza L, wagon, 1.8L AWD, no ABS I've got a clicking noise coming from my front right CV when I turn the wheel, and yup sure enough the outer CV is torn badly enough that it's completely come off on the wheel side. everything around it is covered in a fine layer of grease. have heard from a subaru specialist mechanic on youtube that he has had bad experiences with remanufactured axleshafts for a lot of subarus, says they have lovely tolerances and have caused noise and vibration in cars he's used them on in the past, and that he always prefers replacing the boot on the factory axle, or replacing with a junkyard axle if that isn't an option. questions: 1) does the noise automatically mean it's not salvagable? or can i regrease it, see if that stops the sound temporarily, and if so, replace the boot, and continue on my merry way? 2) Does what i heard square with what yall have experienced with reman axleshafts? subaru-specific insight preferable but any personal experience with any make or drivetrain is appreciated.
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 06:31 |
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Once it's making noise, it's toast. And yeah, Subarus and reman axles seem to give them the shakes. My Outback had a fairly new Napa axle on one side when I got it, and it was like a paint shaker accelerating. It still has an aftermarket axle, but it's a new one now, not reman.
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 14:28 |
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dddddouble post. Frontend kit just showed up for the Matrix. Is.. is it really just 6 bolts? 2 for the LCA itself, 3 to attach the ball joint to the LCA, 1 for the ball joint to knuckle. If that's it, I'm really tempted to just leave the ball joints in the knuckles and reuse them - the OEM Toyota ones are probably far better than the no-name poo poo I got with this.
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 19:17 |
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DildenAnders posted:I've got the Mazda 3 from a couple of pages ago, took it to my mechanic and he said it definitely sounded like my lifters. He said it was a total pain in the rear end to change them and that the amount of time it would take for him (1 man shop, single space garage) to do it he'd end up having to charge ~$1000, which is probably better saved up for a clutch down the line. Is there a consensus on running seafoam in the oil to quiet down loud lifters? I'm seeing people reccomend that in other places but I'm pretty skeptical of those quick fixes and don't want to cause any damage. Seafoam was always placebo nonsense; it's just a solvent blend and not even a very good one. What you want is a bottle of Rislone 4102, which is solvents and acids and a buttload of detergent. It's a little hard to get the full quart in if you aren't burning oil, and you don't wanna run it more than 1000 miles or so before changing the oil again. Then drive it until it blows up and do a 2.5 swap
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# ? Mar 19, 2021 23:26 |
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Anyone here have ceramic tint and notice a difference? I just removed the purple 26 year old tint from my Jeep and after going to the local tint shops there are a lot more options than I expected. It seems like it really does work but I would like opinions from people other than the tint sales guy.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 00:41 |
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Kick-Puncher posted:Anyone here have ceramic tint and notice a difference? I just removed the purple 26 year old tint from my Jeep and after going to the local tint shops there are a lot more options than I expected. It seems like it really does work but I would like opinions from people other than the tint sales guy. Ceramic tint is good poo poo but don't ever use anything but mild soap on it or it starts flaking off hardcore. Learned that lesson the hard way with my Fit and Incredible Glass's aerosol spray.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 01:03 |
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I did my car with full non-ceramic, and my partner's car with full ceramic. I would much rather be in my partner's car on a hot day.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 01:15 |
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STR posted:Once it's making noise, it's toast. Poop. Ok. What are my options for replacing the axleshaft with something that won't just cause another problem? How do I tell one auto-parts-store axle from another? Can I inspect junkyard axles to make sure they aren't in the same shape or worse than mine, or is it just a dice roll? If I am feeling really masochistic, can I order parts from a subaru dealership and rebuild this axle? Are axleshaft rebuild kits a thing? Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Mar 20, 2021 |
# ? Mar 20, 2021 01:52 |
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OMGVBFLOL posted:Poop. Ok. What are my options for replacing the axleshaft with something that won't just cause another problem? How do I tell one auto-parts-store axle from another? Can I inspect junkyard axles to make sure they aren't in the same shape or worse than mine, or is it just a dice roll? If I am feeling really masochistic, can I order parts from a subaru dealership and rebuild this axle? Are axleshaft rebuild kits a thing? A good junkyard part with solid boots or a new one from the parts store of your choice would still be my vote. I think itd be worth trying one, and its a lot cleaner than rebuilding them.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 03:51 |
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nitsuga posted:A good junkyard part with solid boots or a new one from the parts store of your choice would still be my vote. I think itd be worth trying one, and its a lot cleaner than rebuilding them. do they just mark them as new versus remanufactured? I can't recall seeing any marked "new" on the website but I just may not have been looking hard enough. e: is this what I'm looking for? https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-new-cv-axle-7330n/401142_0_0 Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Mar 20, 2021 |
# ? Mar 20, 2021 04:10 |
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OMGVBFLOL posted:do they just mark them as new versus remanufactured? I can't recall seeing any marked "new" on the website but I just may not have been looking hard enough. It fits according to Auto Zone. That one looks pretty good to me. And yeah, generally theyll say remanufactured if they were somehow rebuilt has always been my understanding. Id say give it a try and pick up an axle nut while youre there. Edit: If it doesnt include one. Thanks, beach bum. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Mar 20, 2021 |
# ? Mar 20, 2021 05:04 |
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Generally, axles you buy that come in a box include a new axle nut.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 08:30 |
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My EGR system is throwing a code, when the engine is cold it idles rough and I smell fuel but when it warms up it idles smoothly and I don't smell any fuel. My initial thought is that probably means the valve is gunked up just enough to be a problem before thermal expansion happens and the gunk softens from the heat. As the valve itself is NLA that means I'm pulling it and giving it a scrubbing, but that also means I want to make sure that I'm not doing anything that's going to gently caress up the valve. It's a solenoid-actuated valve, I'm thinking of getting some pipe cleaners or similar and a bottle of throttle body / carb cleaner. Are there any gotchas on this kind of job that could result in me loving up my valve? The gaskets are still available but the valve itself isn't, so if I have to replace the gaskets I can at least.
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# ? Mar 20, 2021 23:53 |
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# ? May 12, 2024 09:48 |
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Replace PCV while you're at it. Every mid-90s car I've ever worked on would throw EGR codes when it was sipping oil through the PCV. A little more detail on what vehicle would help.
Ranzear fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 21, 2021 |
# ? Mar 21, 2021 00:45 |