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I started learning how to really paint minis since I ended up getting the Fallout Wasteland Warfare game. Faces and eyes and skin tone is hard as gently caress. Once I'm done with the 12 minis that the game comes with I'll post pictures of them in the order that I painted them in, see if I can notice a skill progression even in this micro scale. Think I'm getting the hang out thinning my paints, unsure about my homemade wet pallet, still figuring out the washes, and I've only done one figure that I feel remotely good about the highlighting. I feel the urge to buy more and more paint instead of trying to make new colors out of my limited set, but I'll get there when I get there I guess. Does anyone have a good guide for painting flesh tones for absolute beginners? I have to do an "enslaved tech" model and the guy isn't wearing a shirt. I've got the AK human flesh tone set to work with. Also, my paints are all army painter and AK; I'm assuming these are fine for a ground-floor beginner but I want to know if I'm making any massive mistakes. I'm also reviewing my Darkest Dungeon KS pledge and realizing I'll be getting an additional 108 minis in the fall. Really considering bumping my pledge up to the max tier and getting the total amount of 284 minis. I'm excited to develop this new psychosis further! Wrr fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 17:11
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Wrr posted:I started learning how to really paint minis since I ended up getting the Fallout Wasteland Warfare game. Faces and eyes and skin tone is hard as gently caress. GW contrast paints are amazing for flesh IMO.
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Mar 18, 2021 17:17
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I know 3D printers come on here every once in a while, so I wanna ask. Which 3D printers do you all use/would recommend? I don’t have a separate space for it so it would be setup in my house in an office room with my pc. Would that be bad from a danger/fumes/smell perspective?
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Mar 18, 2021 17:24
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Winklebottom posted:If you got a hankerin' for some elves, Age of Sigmar got high elf equivalents a little while ago, Lumineth Realm-lords. They're a lot wackier than the WHFB elves but they're pretty solid sculpts. can confirm that the Lumineth will invoke that high elf painting nostalgia very quickly. big hats, tons of trim painting, cloth robes. so much trim to paint god why
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Mar 18, 2021 17:33
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:I know 3D printers come on here every once in a while, so I wanna ask. Which 3D printers do you all use/would recommend? I don’t have a separate space for it so it would be setup in my house in an office room with my pc. Would that be bad from a danger/fumes/smell perspective? You'll also need a way to cure the minis properly, so that factors in to the price as well. For terrain pieces, I use an Anycubic Mega Zero, which is a cheap FDM printer. There's not really any smell to it or anything, but they can be noisy as hell. The usual recommendation is an Ender 3, but you can throw a lot of money at another model if you want to, to get a bunch of quality of life upgrades from the get go.
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Mar 18, 2021 17:40
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 About halfway done with my Imperial Guard killteam. And I cannot for the life of me take pictures of groups of miniatures where they are all in focus.
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Mar 19, 2021 00:15
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Some more adventures with Contrasts: The whites are a bit dusty (since it's just the drybrushed preshading layer otherwise unpainted) and the NMM on the blades still needs some work, but overall they turned out quite well! This is "mostly" Contrast, as I used acrylics to finish up the NMM and push up some of the sheen on the leather studded bits.
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Mar 19, 2021 00:25
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I bought one of those boxes GW sells with 6 paints and a few models to try and practice painting before I do it one models I want to play with. Today I under coated and based them, it didn't go amazingly.    [timg]https://i.imgur.com/1VoymMz.jpg][/timg]I had a lot of trouble getting the consistency right. The paint ended up streaking so I had to put on multiple coats, so the dried paint looks blobby in places and too thick. Undercoating in chaos black also didn't help because you could see it pretty clearly under the lighter coats. Hopefully tomorrow when I continue it'll come out better. Honestly I might buy another kit like this just to get a little more practice in before I work on models I intend to play with. Also whoever designed these models can get hosed. The bases have so many hard to reach nooks and crannies, they also made it hard to paint certain parts of the ghosts.
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Mar 19, 2021 00:39
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Giant Ethicist posted:Some more adventures with Contrasts: Could you elaborate a bit on your gold NMM technique and paints used on these? Great paint schemes and work there.
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Mar 19, 2021 01:08
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tangy yet delightful posted:Could you elaborate a bit on your gold NMM technique and paints used on these? Great paint schemes and work there. Sure! The base is Contrast Snakebite Leather, which honestly does like 80% of the work, then I do some highlighting of raised edges with VMC Light Yellow and spot highlights with white, basically just accentuating bits that the Contrast has left light. Some random white diagonal slashes on flat areas finishes it up. It doesn't looks as good as "real" NMM, but it does the job for very minimal effort.
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Mar 19, 2021 01:18
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Geisladisk posted:And I cannot for the life of me take pictures of groups of miniatures where they are all in focus. I don't know about phones, but you'd really want either a macro lens or tripod set-up. Gotta play with f-stop and stuff. The gf is a former photographer so I hear this over and over but have never bought either of those things.
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Mar 19, 2021 02:02
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Lucinice posted:I bought one of those boxes GW sells with 6 paints and a few models to try and practice painting before I do it one models I want to play with. Today I under coated and based them, it didn't go amazingly. I am a total noob but I feel like maybe the answer here is you didn't thin your paints enough? You can always add more layers, you can't (easily) take away paint. One youtuber I've watched a lot of said that the texture should be like "melted icecream"
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Mar 19, 2021 02:23
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Verisimilidude posted:Special shout out to Flameon Miniatures for the best NMM I've ever seen on any model https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFKkAcLBp5Q Well gently caress me. That sort of project just went from "impossible" to "just a lot of tedious work".
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Mar 19, 2021 02:45
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I am a total noob but I feel like maybe the answer here is you didn't thin your paints enough? I think I just put too many coats. Here's what it looked like when I put it on.  I kept trying to cover up the areas that looked like this and I might have used too much.
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Mar 19, 2021 02:46
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White is a terrible paint in general, and going from black to white via brush is a nightmare. People often use intermediate colours to bridge the gap, like greys which are easier to work with and have better coverage over black than white. A few thin coats of light grey, then a very light grey to be the base 'white' colour, then use the actual white as the highlight colour. There is a reason you don't see many white or yellow armies kicking around.
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Mar 19, 2021 04:03
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Lucinice posted:I think I just put too many coats. Here's what it looked like when I put it on. How many coats is that? Because with a properly thinned white you're still looking at about 4 coats to reach opacity over black.
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Mar 19, 2021 04:18
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Doing a study on CMYK and color theory. Picked up Liquitex acrylic gouache primary yellow, primary blue and quinacridone magenta and using the black/white acrylic I already have. The paints themselves are INSANELY AWESOME, very very matte, and with them I can create basically the entire range of colors. For $11 a bottle ($15 for the magenta) and 2oz per bottle, you also get a poo poo ton of paint. They are definitely worth checking out, especially the black/white since those are in everyone's collection. Here's what I've been working on with them 
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Mar 19, 2021 04:23
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Eediot Jedi posted:White is a terrible paint in general, and going from black to white via brush is a nightmare. People often use intermediate colours to bridge the gap, like greys which are easier to work with and have better coverage over black than white. A few thin coats of light grey, then a very light grey to be the base 'white' colour, then use the actual white as the highlight colour. Airbrushing white, on the other hand, is super easy and airbrushes are getting more common over time!
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Mar 19, 2021 10:24
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just don’t spray your models black if there’s gonna be a lot of white on it. do yourself a favour and buy a cheap white spray can
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Mar 19, 2021 10:34
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Verisimilidude posted:Doing a study on CMYK and color theory. Picked up Liquitex acrylic gouache primary yellow, primary blue and quinacridone magenta and using the black/white acrylic I already have. The paints themselves are INSANELY AWESOME, very very matte, and with them I can create basically the entire range of colors. For $11 a bottle ($15 for the magenta) and 2oz per bottle, you also get a poo poo ton of paint. They are definitely worth checking out, especially the black/white since those are in everyone's collection. I have a lot of various "art" paints that are acrylic right now, but I don't know which ones are worth using on minis and which ones are worth avoiding. Not sure what a "gouache" is. Are Citadel paints soft body or heavy body? High Flow Acrylics by Golden?  I also have an airbrush, though I've never used it. Right now I'm working on assembling my 40k guys and have a "corax white" spray can but I eventually hope to just airbrush the base coat indoors and do tricks like zen highlights, since no garage and it's cold out
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Mar 19, 2021 13:34
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Gouache has more binder and less (but larger) pigments compared to acrylics, it tends to crack if it's applied too thick. Large pigment size isn't great for mini painting Edit: but is usually fine for terrain. Citadel is a soft bodied acrylic, it's watery and at its best has a consistency about that of milk. Soft bodied acrylics require brushes to apply, and the ones formulated for miniatures are designed to go on very thin. Hard bodied acrylics have similar texture to oil paints, so they can be applied with a knife (handy for painting on canvas, not so much for miniatures) VVV Yeah, that is nice. I'd never considered them because I know they can reactivate, so that's really good to know. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Mar 19, 2021 |
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Mar 19, 2021 13:47
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Gouache is also typically watercolor-based, but the acrylic nature of this gouache fixes the problem typical gouaches face when it comes to mini painting, namely by making them resistant to water after it dries, so multiple layers can be painted on. I also wouldn’t worry about cracking, since we typically paint in thin layers to avoid clogging detail anyway. Definitely worth checking out, they go on buttery smooth and blend very well. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Mar 19, 2021 |
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Mar 19, 2021 13:52
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Spanish Manlove posted:Thin down a green of choice and add it to some areas and then mix in white to those green/yellow areas and maybe even bring it to a pure yellow for more contrast? PoptartsNinja posted:You might want to try Druchi Violet or Drakenhof Nightshade, purple and green tend to go well together and blue is a natural shade, but you'd probably need to go back and reestablish your brightest colors after. moths posted:You could also two coat gloss varnish it and use black ink as a pin wash. It'll keep the raised areas as-is, but pool black into the recesses (hopefully taming the overall amount of "bright.") Wanted to thank all of you again for the suggestions. I ended up doing none of these, but they helped me arrive at a different solution that ultimately worked pretty well. I had a bottle of AK's streaking grime laying around, so I mixed one part of that with six parts white spirits and used that as a wash. It shaded the recesses just enough while not affecting the colors' overall brightness too much, and removing excess with the brush/more white spirits was a cinch.
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Mar 19, 2021 17:19
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Speaking of craft paints, how well does it bind? I bought some daler-rowney system 3 acrylic paint, because it was on offer at the local craft store. I thought I would use it for painting terrain, since it’s a lot cheaper than citadel/Vallejo model paints. Do you still need primer for that? Or are craft acrylics good enough as undercoat on plastic? It’s certainly thick enough compared to citadel, but I guess I’ll thin it down to a similar consistency. I’m not too worried about the details being obscured, since it’s just terrain.
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Mar 19, 2021 18:33
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Revelation 2-13 posted:Speaking of craft paints, how well does it bind? I bought some daler-rowney system 3 acrylic paint, because it was on offer at the local craft store. I thought I would use it for painting terrain, since it’s a lot cheaper than citadel/Vallejo model paints. Do you still need primer for that? Or are craft acrylics good enough as undercoat on plastic? It’s certainly thick enough compared to citadel, but I guess I’ll thin it down to a similar consistency. I’m not too worried about the details being obscured, since it’s just terrain. I'm willing to bet you'll need a primer underneath regardless, if not just to keep the paint from chipping/flaking off.
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Mar 19, 2021 18:39
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHgUoSHhO-M Duncan released a new video talking about fixing various mistakes that might happen while painting. Worth a watch.
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Mar 19, 2021 19:44
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Revelation 2-13 posted:Speaking of craft paints, how well does it bind? I bought some daler-rowney system 3 acrylic paint, because it was on offer at the local craft store. I thought I would use it for painting terrain, since it’s a lot cheaper than citadel/Vallejo model paints. Do you still need primer for that? Or are craft acrylics good enough as undercoat on plastic? It’s certainly thick enough compared to citadel, but I guess I’ll thin it down to a similar consistency. I’m not too worried about the details being obscured, since it’s just terrain. You are still going to want to prime, yes.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:00
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Cooked Auto posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHgUoSHhO-M great video
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Mar 19, 2021 20:01
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Did he quit GW to start his own channel thingy?
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Mar 19, 2021 20:04
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Yeah pretty much, and he has a subscription website with some other tutorials as well. Funny thing I keep going back to his old GW video more than the recent ones for ideas or suggestions on how to paint things. The latter ones are almost too dependent on contrasts, which isn't bad but not really going to buy a whole lot of them for one thing.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:08
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For what it's worth on the subject of heavy body acrylics, Vince had a video about painting smooth white where he suggests using some heavy body Titanium White with flow improver as a trick. I've tried it and while I'm not getting it as smooth as I want the coverage is fantastic. Part of my problem might be I'm using glaze medium, which I think has some flow improver in it rather than just straight flow improver which I still need to get at some point.
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Mar 19, 2021 20:22
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Eej posted:Airbrushing white, on the other hand, is super easy and airbrushes are getting more common over time! Especially over a white or ivory primer. I use ivory so I can tell what I've already actually painted.
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Mar 19, 2021 21:34
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Sab669 posted:Did he quit GW to start his own channel thingy? Yeah, he even started using a wet palette now that he's free
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Mar 19, 2021 21:45
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Spanish Manlove posted:Yeah, he even started using a wet palette now that he's free I know that it's aimed for people starting out and wet palettes aren't for everyone and everything else but every time I watch a warhammer tv painting guide video and they dish some paint out on their dry palette I die a little.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:18
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Finished the brute from Gloomhaven using CMY acrylic gouache  Here was my pallet at the end  I had a blast painting him in this way. This is only about 3 hours of work and I'm happy with how I'm improving on NMM steel. The gouache is incredibly easy to work with, goes on perfectly matte (ultra matte in fact) and it blends very easily with regular acrylic paints. I'll definitely do this for more interesting solo models, as painting an entire army in this way would take forever.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:33
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What's up with GW not promoting wet palettes? They could probably sell them $50 a pop. Ooooh, is it because (correct me if I'm wrong) you tend to waste more paint when using a dry palette?
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Mar 19, 2021 22:34
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I'm always slightly surprised when I'm reminded that Games Workshop has never slapped a Warhammer logo on a cheaply made wet pallete and sold it with some precut parchment paper at a huge mark up.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:34
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Furism posted:What's up with GW not promoting wet palettes? They could probably sell them $50 a pop.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:45
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A wet palette also reinforces how bad the GW pot design is.
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Mar 19, 2021 23:23
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Dreylad posted:I know that it's aimed for people starting out and wet palettes aren't for everyone and everything else but every time I watch a warhammer tv painting guide video and they dish some paint out on their dry palette I die a little. Duncan still uses a dry pallet ceramic tile for things like metallics and washes. Which is kind of ideal imho. I started to notice that metallics seep through the wet palette paper and stain the sponge underneath which stains any new paper I put on it later.
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Mar 19, 2021 23:43
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