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STR posted:Metra sells reverse harnesses for exactly this - to regain that factory plug. It's likely the exact same harness that every other 90s Toyota used. Sweet that is what I need! Will order one today Edit: hey I am not seeing the harness that is made to replace the factory, just pulling up the ones that plug into factory harness. What am I doing wrong? Ok! Found “reverse wiring harness “ hopefully that will do it everdave fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Mar 20, 2021 |
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Mar 20, 2021 18:45
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I bought a Subaru SVX that somehow still has the original cassette/cd/AM/FM head unit, and I don't want to get rid of it, but I do want to be able to play music off of my phone. So a cassette adapter seems like the logical choice, but this thing's head unit is hidden behind a fold-down panel. I could probably snake a flat aux cable through the crack but I saw there are some that do bluetooth. Does anyone have experience with those? The issue I see would be that they presumably operate off of battery, which means I would have to remove the adapter and charge it at what I'm sure would be inconvenient intervals. Are there any other options I should look at? If I should just go with the cable, should I just go with whatever's cheap or are there certain adapters that have better sound quality or reliability?
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Mar 22, 2021 04:46
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I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter, it doesn’t need a battery as far as I know but it sounds horrible. You would not be happy.
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Mar 22, 2021 12:45
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Sometimes you can 'hack' into the CD changer input on head units and use it as an aux (or connected to a Bluetooth receiver into the aux) so maybe see if there was a factory option?
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Mar 22, 2021 13:02
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Humbug posted:If you want complete stealth and practicality, a box molded into the spare tire is also an option. It's what i use in my 850 wagon and everything is completely hidden. Its made of fiberglass, but it wasn't too hard since the spare acts as the fiberglass mold. Its similar to the box in this thread, but with a full size 8' sub since i have a full size spare, and no hole cut in the floor. There's purpose-built spare tire subs with a built-in amp these days, just a little more money than I'd like to spend since I already have a functional amp and sub. Here's one. They just bolt on top of the spare tire, and most of them can be easily unplugged if you need to actually use the spare (I have no plans on ever using mine since it's old enough to enlist in the military... used to be old enough to buy cigarettes until they raised that to 21)
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Mar 22, 2021 13:53
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Why not grab a good newer spare at the P&P STR? I know there is a science to subs and amps, but in the 90’s I had a lifted Z71 and I bought the cheapest boxes I could from yes JC Whitney catalog and threw some 10” in there UNDER the seats. Everyone at the shop (I worked for olds/honda dealer at the time) laughed their asses off said it would suck. It sounded amazing!! I even got a noise pollution ticket downtown Nashville for it ha
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Mar 22, 2021 14:10
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STR posted:There's purpose-built spare tire subs with a built-in amp these days, just a little more money than I'd like to spend since I already have a functional amp and sub. Here's one. They just bolt on top of the spare tire, and most of them can be easily unplugged if you need to actually use the spare (I have no plans on ever using mine since it's old enough to enlist in the military... used to be old enough to buy cigarettes until they raised that to 21) I have the shallow version of that sub, the VPSTX12, in my BRZ and its fine. It can easily overpower the stock speakers and takes some tuning with the EQ to sound right. The biggest issue I have is when I'm at highway speed the road noise drowns out the low mids, so I hear mostly bass drum from the sub, and high mids/vocals from the cabin speakers. I need to spend more time with the EQ, but the car sounds completely different parked than at speed so any change I make at home might not work while driving.
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Mar 22, 2021 17:40
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Wire in a MiniDSP running Dirac Live 
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Mar 22, 2021 18:56
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DrChu posted:I have the shallow version of that sub, the VPSTX12, in my BRZ and its fine. It can easily overpower the stock speakers and takes some tuning with the EQ to sound right. The biggest issue I have is when I'm at highway speed the road noise drowns out the low mids, so I hear mostly bass drum from the sub, and high mids/vocals from the cabin speakers. I need to spend more time with the EQ, but the car sounds completely different parked than at speed so any change I make at home might not work while driving. I added isolation to my '10 outback due to a similar issue. I did it on the cheap by using Frost King rolls from Home Depot and pressed it on with a rounded tool handle, and it helped a bit. I only put it in the doors and above the wheelwells. Some people frown on the Frost King method recommend products like Noico or Killmat. I haven't tried them to directly compare. Lifehack: if the material you bought doesn't come with a backer, try a sheet of wax paper! Helps shoving sheets through gaps without them sticking to poo poo on the way.
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Mar 22, 2021 19:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I bought a Subaru SVX that somehow still has the original cassette/cd/AM/FM head unit, and I don't want to get rid of it, but I do want to be able to play music off of my phone. So a cassette adapter seems like the logical choice, but this thing's head unit is hidden behind a fold-down panel. I could probably snake a flat aux cable through the crack but I saw there are some that do bluetooth. Does anyone have experience with those? The issue I see would be that they presumably operate off of battery, which means I would have to remove the adapter and charge it at what I'm sure would be inconvenient intervals. Are there any other options I should look at? If I should just go with the cable, should I just go with whatever's cheap or are there certain adapters that have better sound quality or reliability? Back in my car audio days they had this thing we installed when satellite radio units were a separate unit from the factor radio. It was an adapter that plugged inline with the back of the radio's factory antenna and would pump in sound from the xm unit: https://www.amazon.com/SiriusXM-FMD...ps%2C174&sr=8-3 The plug is not 3.5 mm stereo unfortunately, it might be 2.5 mm stereo though. Or someone may have taken this idea and made it more universal. Other option is leave your factory headunit alone and just get an amp with bluetooth and stream from your phone directly to the amp. KillHour posted:Wire in a MiniDSP running Dirac Live I would like to know more™. DrChu posted:I have the shallow version of that sub, the VPSTX12, in my BRZ and its fine. It can easily overpower the stock speakers and takes some tuning with the EQ to sound right. The biggest issue I have is when I'm at highway speed the road noise drowns out the low mids, so I hear mostly bass drum from the sub, and high mids/vocals from the cabin speakers. I need to spend more time with the EQ, but the car sounds completely different parked than at speed so any change I make at home might not work while driving. Get a roll of this: https://www.amazon.com/SoundSkins-Pro-Door-Kit-Coverage/dp/B07GNWCHCZ. Pop off your door panels, remove moisture barrier and put a roll of that and it will make a big difference in the sound of your door speakers. Look for my posts in this thread and can see pics of where I did that on my element. Coredump fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 22, 2021 |
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Mar 22, 2021 19:47
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Coredump posted:I would like to know more™. https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-24 https://live.dirac.com/overview/
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Mar 22, 2021 20:30
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STR posted:How good are those spare-tire mounted subs? I don't want to give up my cargo space, and I want to remain stealth. Some of them have a factory sub there in that side panel. Mine does - it's a 6x9 though. No idea how much space is back there - I want to see about slapping in an 8" or something. I was also looking at the Cerwin Vega amplified spare tire subs. They seem to have good reviews. https://cerwinvegamobile.com/products/suv-truck/st-enclosures/st-vega-enclosures/vpas12st/ https://cerwinvegamobile.com/products/suv-truck/st-enclosures/st-vega-enclosures/vpstx12/ The "ST" is a bit bigger (2" in each direction.) They've been out of stock at Sonic Electronix, my preferred vendor, for a while, though. Amazon's got it: https://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-Powered-Active-Subwoofer-Application/dp/B07FY9BPVR STR posted:There's purpose-built spare tire subs with a built-in amp these days, just a little more money than I'd like to spend since I already have a functional amp and sub. Here's one. They just bolt on top of the spare tire, and most of them can be easily unplugged if you need to actually use the spare (I have no plans on ever using mine since it's old enough to enlist in the military... used to be old enough to buy cigarettes until they raised that to 21) ...aaaaand you go an post exactly that one. Frankly, a custom-made box from a shop will probably be more expensive. You'd also need a sub designed for a pretty small box. Wasabi the J posted:I added isolation to my '10 outback due to a similar issue. I did it on the cheap by using Frost King rolls from Home Depot and pressed it on with a rounded tool handle, and it helped a bit. I only put it in the doors and above the wheelwells. I've successfully used Peel & Seal from Lowes in a couple cars. It's functionally identical to original Dynamat, except it's asphalt-based rather than butyl rubber. Some folks say that will make it smell like an asphalt road in the summer, but I've not experienced that. I've only used the 6" wide roll, since that's what they have typically in stock: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733 but it does come in 3' wide rolls: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-waterproof-repairs-3-ft-W-x-33-5-ft-L-100-5-sq-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Roofing/3090099 A little heat from a heat gun or hair dryer, and a rubber roller and it'll form very nicely.
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Mar 22, 2021 22:32
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Laserface posted:Sometimes you can 'hack' into the CD changer input on head units and use it as an aux (or connected to a Bluetooth receiver into the aux) so maybe see if there was a factory option? Coredump posted:Back in my car audio days they had this thing we installed when satellite radio units were a separate unit from the factor radio. It was an adapter that plugged inline with the back of the radio's factory antenna and would pump in sound from the xm unit: https://www.amazon.com/SiriusXM-FMD...ps%2C174&sr=8-3 Coincidentally, Krakkles just posted this over in the import thread: KakerMix posted:Over the past couple days I have been messing with this:
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Mar 22, 2021 22:40
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Darchangel posted:Some of them have a factory sub there in that side panel. Mine does - it's a 6x9 though. No idea how much space is back there - I want to see about slapping in an 8" or something. FWIW I have the Cerwin Vega VPAS10 compact sub (under seat version) and it sounds real good for the money. the only caveat is that it doesnt reach super low and some bass frequencies kind of disappear. The song Showdown by Pendulum where the bass does like a climb up the scale? it sorta disappears in the middle bits. Im guessing its because the acoustics of the enclosure just doesnt support those frequencies. I dont listen to that kind of stuff regularly so its not a huge deal. Now I see they have a 12" and I might upgrade.
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Mar 23, 2021 00:20
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I bought a little Bluetooth receiver "tile" for my car and plugged it on to the 3.5mm jack and USB power via a cigarette lighter USB charger. The noise on the audio output makes it absolutely unusable. Is there either a "power filter" type device for USB or a "known good" charger that won't cause this issue.
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Mar 24, 2021 02:16
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Darchangel posted:Some of them have a factory sub there in that side panel. Mine does - it's a 6x9 though. No idea how much space is back there - I want to see about slapping in an 8" or something. The Outback I pillaged yesterday had the McIntosh system. I would have grabbed it, except it'd just hit the yard that day... and the rear end in a top hat that processed it hit the lock button before yanking the battery (OR didn't bother unlocking everything), leaving only the driver's door unlocked.  I didn't want to rip apart a perfectly good hatch cover to get to the lock, and I don't have a jump pack. Also the ignition was stuck in run with a broken off screwdriver in it, so there's no telling if a small jump pack would have been able to power it up enough once all the engine computer poo poo powered up.I wanted those C pillar tweets too, but again, it was locked up enough that I couldn't easily remove them without breaking everything.  I'm sure someone will come along with a jump pack (if they haven't already) and unlock it, or tear the hatch apart to unlock it.People have slapped shallow 12s and full depth 10s in that space, BTW, but you have to do a custom enclosure.
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Mar 25, 2021 22:13
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STR posted:The Outback I pillaged yesterday had the McIntosh system. I would have grabbed it, except it'd just hit the yard that day... and the rear end in a top hat that processed it hit the lock button before yanking the battery (OR didn't bother unlocking everything), leaving only the driver's door unlocked. I've got to get back there and take a look at what I'm working with. The Mac system is OK, but if you want an aftermarket head unit, it doesn't play well. I still have noise on mine, and will be replacing the amp at some point. C-pillar tweets? Pretty sure mine just has 2-ways in the rear doors.
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Mar 26, 2021 21:03
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Currently have a 2016 corolla with stock radio. Looking to upgrade the speakers and came across these. Any reason I should avoid these or will they be fine for this price range? Mostly listen to Rock and Rap. Front: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699043/JL-Audio-C1-650.html Rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R169X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R169X3.html
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Apr 5, 2021 20:03
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JL and Rockford Fosgate are both reputable, so I'd expect those to be fine. The reviews look good. I've only used JL and RF for bass drivers, so don't have personal experience, though.
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Apr 7, 2021 22:49
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I'd consider adding more power with an amp, like a Kicker Key, and/or aftermarket stereo before replacing speakers. All the OEM head units I've encountered simply don't provide enough power to get the most out of stock speakers, let alone aftermarket speakers. Replacing the OEM stereo in my current car with the cheapest new touchscreen double-DIN Pioneer sold took the stock speakers from "worse than the pack-in iPod earbuds" to totally passable.
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Apr 8, 2021 02:33
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if my speakers have gone crackly after maybe having the stereo a smidge too loud, will adding an amplifier and replacing the speakers allow me to go to the same loudness but without risk of damaging the speakers? thats what the internet is telling me but also more power = more damage is what my brain is telling me. the speakers are pioneer TS-A components off a pioneer head unit. Considering one of those micro 4ch amps that you can hide in the dashboard.
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Apr 8, 2021 04:17
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Probably toast, unless it was amp distortion, if everything is stock it may be the amp being overdriven. You can test the speaker by checking if the resistance is to spec or if their is a short or a few coils melted. I used a nine volt battery by listening and looking: when it makes contact there should be a short pop but more importantly the speaker cone will move up and down, and checking the travel in both directions can reveal if something happened mechanically to it. You can also check your speaker polarity with the same battery.
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Apr 8, 2021 06:10
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Wasabi the J posted:Probably toast, unless it was amp distortion, if everything is stock it may be the amp being overdriven. its happening at low volumes with certain frequencies/songs so its quite obvious to me. I believe the head unit (DMH-z6350BT) does 25w per channel. the speakers i think are rated to 40w per channel? they are about 5 years old though. so does adding an amp mean you can go louder, cleaner, and reduce the chance of damaging the speakers? I havent even considered the OEM paper cones in the rear doors yet but I would imagine they are probably OK as i run them with a 3dB pad.
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Apr 8, 2021 06:23
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Seems like the speakers since it's happening at resonant frequencies and not flat out crunching all the time, but I'm not an expert. You should definitely test them before throwing money at the problem.
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Apr 8, 2021 06:59
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Darchangel posted:I've got to get back there and take a look at what I'm working with. Yeah, take a look at the pillars next time you're back there. This one definitely had them, though it was a 2004. The head unit looked a bit different on this one - no McIntosh branding on it (sub had the branding), but it was a double DIN Subaru head unit with only CD. edit: found a picture of the head unit from a for sale listing for a 2004 LL Bean, the listing also showed a McIntosh sub... didn't show the pillars tho. Makes me wonder if they had to get rid of the McIntosh head unit when they made OnStar an option? Both the junkyard car and the one in this for sale listing showed a McIntosh logo on the 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 08:33
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I want one of those McIntosh head units to match my home McIntosh gear, shame they aren’t modern.
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Apr 8, 2021 17:08
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I adore the look of McIntosh gear. I was about to say "they could easily extort a big price premium out of me for a car stereo" but then I remembered that I'd want Android Auto in any unit I bought today, and that more or less guarantees it's going to be one giant touchscreen. I don't think I'd spend the money just for a pretty McIntosh startup screen that would vanish once I connected my phone.
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Apr 8, 2021 17:49
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If they did a slightly oversized double din external screen thing of epic build quality and knob feel, it would most definitely extract money from me if they don’t gently caress up the software. I’m not a big fan of brand loyalty but McIntosh* is an exception like pre-2006 BMW. *is modern McIntosh stuff still good? My gear is from 1998 or earlier.
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Apr 8, 2021 17:55
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STR posted:Yeah, take a look at the pillars next time you're back there. This one definitely had them, though it was a 2004. Nope.  OnStar radio sits on top of the AC controls, BTW:  And an aside: the factory Mac speakers in the front doors are coaxial, despite there being tweeters at the tops of the doors.   RIP Paul Walker posted:If they did a slightly oversized double din external screen thing of epic build quality and knob feel, it would most definitely extract money from me if they don’t gently caress up the software. The radio in my 2003 Outback was fine. The integrated CD changer was broken. It's all also just Clarion with a fancy face (not that Clarion is bad.) edit: and now I'm curious. I'll go look for those rear tweets when the wife gets home. edit again: it looks like the cars with the McIntosh system didn't get the rear tweets. At least, Crutchfield lists McIntosh, then a bunch of non-Macs with 4 , 8, or 9 speakers, and they show the C-pillar tweets with the non-Mac 8 or 9 speaker, but not with the McIntosh system. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 21:45
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I'm looking for recommendations for an Android Auto head unit to put in an 09 VW Golf 2.0 TDi Estate. It's a double DIN bay I think. It needs to be available in the UK, and have decent sound and screen. I'm not really fussed about many other features. Android Auto will be 99% of its use. I suppose an AUX in might be nice in case someone else wants to plug something in. I don't intend on adding pre-amps or extra speakers or anything. It really just needs to work well with my phone. Anyone have any suggestions? Ideally I'd like to keep it below £300 but if I have to go a little higher to get something that doesn't suck then I will. I've been looking at the Sony XAV-AX300 which seems decent but it's £350.
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Apr 17, 2021 13:04
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Is the 09 the MK6 generation in your country? If so you may want to look into a RCD-330 variant. It will be a drop in replacement for the OEM stereo. You do have to be careful about the version, some only support CarPlay and not Android Auto.
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Apr 17, 2021 15:40
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I am getting ready to tackle trying to wire in this radio to the cut factory wiring in a 95 Toyota (it’s a JDM but I imagine wire coloring is the same). I have the reverse harness to splice into, does anyone have a go-to wiring color diagram online they refer to before I just google and pick a random one?
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Apr 17, 2021 16:16
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DrChu posted:Is the 09 the MK6 generation in your country? If so you may want to look into a RCD-330 variant. It will be a drop in replacement for the OEM stereo. You do have to be careful about the version, some only support CarPlay and not Android Auto. That's the year it changed I think but mine's a mk 5. Thanks though, that would have been a good call.
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Apr 17, 2021 21:39
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I don't remember the numbers, but I was able to stick a mk6 head unit into my MKV GTI with an adapter harness. Almost all of the pins were the same except for like two and it had a breakout pigtail for the microphone (that didn't work for me for some reason).
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Apr 17, 2021 22:33
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everdave posted:I am getting ready to tackle trying to wire in this radio to the cut factory wiring in a 95 Toyota (it’s a JDM but I imagine wire coloring is the same). I have the reverse harness to splice into, does anyone have a go-to wiring color diagram online they refer to before I just google and pick a random one? I like The12Volt: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html Yours specifically should be on this page: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/6/yeard/Toyota.html And yeah, the colors should be pretty much all the same for a given year. I would test the powers (BATT and switched) just to be sure, and maybe "pop" the speakers with a 9V battery.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:40
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~Coxy posted:I bought a little Bluetooth receiver "tile" for my car and plugged it on to the 3.5mm jack and USB power via a cigarette lighter USB charger. Google "ground loop isolator". You'll need one of those, cigarette lighters have absolutely terrible grounds and you'll always get noise if you have audio anywhere near them. I'm assuming you've checked, but the superior option is to get an aftermarket adapter that patches in to the changer/aux connector, assuming your car has that option. I've got that on the Accord and Bluetooth is squeaky clean since it's patched direct in to the headunit and is powered from it. It also has a usb and 3.5 connector in case I ever want to use something that doesn't have Bluetooth.
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Apr 22, 2021 02:26
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Darchangel posted:I like The12Volt: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html Thanks!
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Apr 22, 2021 18:30
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Hi. I was too lazy to peruse the listings of the forum to see if there was a dedicated audio thread, so sorry for the double post with the dumb question thread. I've got a beater ford ranger with a double din head unit. I'd like something slightly more advanced, with carplay or something. It has bluetooth, but it's basic and I need to use my phone to control everything. Is there one of those standard AI recommended "this is a good basic head unit" that I could throw in there? The sound system pretty much sucks, so it doesn't have to be crazy powerful or anything.
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May 21, 2021 13:33
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I think the general recommendations here are super cheap or super expensive. The middle ground is a poor compromise of price and features. A few people here recommend cheap Chinese Android based units, I and a few people recommend the Pioneer NEX series at whatever series suits your needs. You can build an audio system without a head unit at all with a Bluetooth module and multichannel amplifier. Then your phone becomes the controller with android auto.
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May 21, 2021 13:43
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um excuse me posted:I think the general recommendations here are super cheap or super expensive. The middle ground is a poor compromise of price and features. I have an iphone but I specifically don't want to be using the phone as the controller.
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May 21, 2021 13:54
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